562 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 29, 1887. 
in this country than is generally supposed, indeed it is often killed by 
kindness in many parts of England. In the south of England and west 
coast of Scotland the Camellia is grown out of doors, and in other parts 
©f the country it thrives where the protection is a simple glass cover. 
He fully explained the mode of growing the Camellia from the seed to 
the flowering period, and showed that great patience and perseverance 
are required for about six years before plants which will sell for Is. each 
can be obtained from seed. The process of grafting and treating the 
plants was minutely described, and Mr. Skinner particularly urged his 
hearers to guard against sudden transitions of heat and cold, or the 
flower buds will fall from their plants. If they studied Nature as much 
as possible their efforts in the growth of the Camellia would be attended 
with pleasure and success. An interesting discussion took place in 
which Messrs. Brown and Garnett were the principal speakers. On the 
motion of Mr. W. Glover, seconded by Mr. T. Garnett, and supported by 
Mr. Amos Sexton, Mr. H. S. Goodyear, and Mr. Oxley, a very hearty 
vote of thanks was given to Mr. Skinner for his interesting address. 
MICROSPERMA BARTONIOIDES. 
This pretty annual now figured is closely allied to the Bartonias, 
from its resemblance to which it has derived its specific nam°. It is 
\ native of Mexico, and was introduced into this country from Hamburg 
Fig. 65.—Wicrosperma bartonioide?. 
in 1S49, under the name of Eucnide bartonioides. It is of succulent 
habit, growing a foot high, with ovate, lobed, and serrated foliage. The 
flowers, which are nearly 2 inches across, are terminal, and produced 
either singly or in pairs, with five spreading, ovate, obscurely toothed 
petals, of a sulphur-yellow above, but much paler beneath. The 
stamens are arranged in five fascicles or bundles, the filaments of each 
fascicle being united at the base, and attached to one of the petals. 
The cultivation of the Microsperma involves a little care; for, 
although it is quite hardy enough to bear the open air, its succulent 
nature renders it liable to injury in all stages of its growth from any 
excess of moisture, whether in the seed-pans or the borders. It may be 
raised in the spring on a gentle heat, in pots of well-drained sandy 
loam. The seeds should be thinly sprinkled on the surface of the soil, 
and then gently pressed in ; they will germinate with greater readiness 
than if covered more deeply. In raising these and other small seeds, 
it is a good plan to cover the rim of the pot with a piece of glass, which 
will greatly retard the evaporation from the soil, and obviate the 
necessity of frequent watering ; but as soon as the seedlings are above 
the soil, the glass should be partially removed, as too much care cannot 
be taken to preserve them from damping-off. When sufficiently large 
to transplant, they should be potted two or three together in 4-inch pots, 
using a mixture of sandy loam and leaf mould or peat ; good drainage 
must be insured by a handful of crocks. In May the plants may be 
transferred to the borders, with their balls of earth entire. We are 
inclined to think that the seed might be sown in the open borders 
about the middle of April, if the soil is light, and a handlight can be 
placed over the patch for the first month or so. The plant may also be 
grown in pots for the window or greenhouse ; and in this situation it 
will be more likely to ripen seed than in the open ground. As in the 
case of the Loasas and some other genera of the same family, the 
foliage of this plant is armed with stinging hairs, but they are much 
less venomous than in Loasa and Caiophora, and need not deter the 
amateur from its cultivation.—W. T. S. 
Before Orchids generally were so largely cultivated the good 
old D. nobile was to be seen in many collections of plants, and it is 
yet one of the most serviceable of the genera. It well repays for 
good culture, and where many buttonhole bouquets are required 
during the winter and spring months it is invaluable. Some of the 
best specimens of it are frequently to be seen in an ordinary mixed 
plant stove, and it is in such a position where ours are grown and 
flowered. With these, as with many other Orchids, it takes some 
time to find out the positions best suited to each, but when once 
found, their culture becomes a comparatively easy matter. Ours 
are most at home on the front wall of a central pit filled principally 
with Crotons, Ixoras, and Dracaenas. Here they get plenty of heat 
and moisture and light, the blinds being let down only when bright 
sunshine prevails. A successful Orchid-growing friend of mine is 
of opinion that the principal object in all cases should be to fill the 
pots, pins, or baskets with roots as quickly as possible, and plenty 
of bloom is sure to follow. If not exactly correct in all instances, 
it is a very important factor in all successes with Dendroblum 
nobile. When they are either pulled to pieces and repotted more 
often than is wise or expedient; or, on the other hand, are not 
attended to often enough, very few active roots are found in the 
compost, though there may be plenty on the plant—such unhealthy 
p'ants usually forming young growths where flowers ought to be 
produced. It was with a quantity of these young shoots that we 
made a serious commencement of D. nobile, and a few details from 
this stage may be instructive. 
Early in the spring is the best time to take off and establish 
these already rooted growths, and only those that are firm, and say 
about 5 inches or rather more, be selected. Any that are soft 
should be left for a few days longer, or otherwise they are liable to 
decay. We prefer to have them with a short piece of old pseudo¬ 
bulb or growth attached, but if this cannot be spared, the young 
growths may be cut cleanly away. The next proceeding is to half 
fill as many clean 5-inch pots as are needed with crocks, on this 
placing a layer of the roughest of the compost, the latter consisting 
of roughly broken Orchid peat, crocks, charcoal, and chopped 
sphagnum in about equal quantities. About four growths are 
placed in each pot, and well raised above the rim, the compost 
being carefully disposed about the roots, without, however, burying 
the collar. A tiny stake is given to each growth, but no sphagnum 
is packed over the surface of the pots, this oftentimes doing more 
harm than good. Yery little water must be given at the outset, 
sprinkling the growth being all that is necessary for a time, and no 
shade whatever ought to be given. When it is found both the top 
and roots are active water may be given—they must be treated, in 
fact, much the same as ordinary newly potted stove plants. If 
kept growing in a brisk heat, these newly established growths will, 
in one season, attain a length of from 12 to 15 inches in length, and 
proportionately sturdy. In the autumn they should be given a 
position as near the glass as possible, and very much less water at 
the roots, only enough being applied to keep them from shrivelling. 
The temperature of our house during November and December 
rarely exceeds 60° by night, and from 5° to 10° higher in the 
daytime, this being a comparative rest for the majority of the 
occupants of the house. A higher temperature and much moisture 
in the atmosphere, such as is maintained in very many stoves, would 
not favour a rest, and in all such cases the D. nobile will be better 
for a time, or say from October to January in an intermediate 
temperature, or even a greenhouse, little or no water being given 
during that time. When given a higher temperature, many of the 
growths flower freely early in the spring, in which case they may 
be cut to their full length, or be cut down directly after flowering 
is over. Should they not flower it is advisable to preserve them, 
as they most probably will do so the following spring. During the 
