Joly 12, D88> ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
37 
on the foliage. In such weather employ fire heat by night, and day 
also if cold. Against mildew flowers of sulphur dusted freely about 
the foliage is an infallible remedy, and against canker there is nothing 
better than rubbing the infested parts until dry with freshly slaked 
lime. Upon a return to bright weather after a dull period, shade from 
bright sun to prevent flagging, which if allowed wastes the energies of 
the plants, resulting in ill-shaped stunted fruits, and offers a strong 
inducement to red spider. In pits and frames the growths must be 
regularly looked over, cutting out those that are exhausted, training 
and earthing the plants as may be required, sprinkling the foliage 
at about four o’clock. In dull periods keep the beds well lined, and 
admit air constantly by tilting the lights a little at back. Keep the 
growths fairly thin, aiming at a supply of young growths to supplant 
the exhausted, which should be cut out, stopping one or two joints 
beyond the fruit. Ventilate early, just a little to allow of accumulated 
moisture escaping, increasing the ventilation with the increased tempe¬ 
rature, but keeping them through the day at 80° to 85° or 90°, closing 
sufficiently early to insure the temperature rising to 90° or 95°. Shade 
only to prevent flagging. If aphides appear fumigate on two or three 
consecutive evenings moderately in preference to once strongly, which 
often seriously injures the foliage. 
Cheeky House. —After the fruit is gathered the chief object is to 
secure the swelling or development of the buds by keeping the foliage 
clear of every description of insect pest, syringing abundantly, and if 
necessary apply an insecticide, as it is of the greatest importance that 
the foliage be kept clean and healthy. Although less moisture is neces¬ 
sary than when the fruit is swelling, yet it is necessary that there be 
sufficient moisture at the roots to maintain the trees in a healthy state. 
Trees in pots from which the fruits are gathered may be placed outdoors 
in the full sun, plunging the pots in ashes. Water as required to keep 
the soil moist, and syringe in the evening of hot days. 
Melons. —Successional plants should be earthed up as soon as the 
roots show at the sides of the ridges or hillocks, making the soil firm, 
being careful that the plants do not suffer from insufficient water, and 
on the other hand see that the soil is not too wet. To plants swelling 
their fruit supply weak liquid manure. Maintain a bottom heat of 
80° to 85° for young plants, 90° with a moist atmosphere to growing 
crops, syringing freely except when the fruit is setting or ripening, 
being careful not to allow one or two fruits to take the lead, but have 
them all as nearly as possible of one size on a plant. 
Plant without much further delay in the Melon house for producing 
fruit in late September or early October. Sow seed in about a week to 
raise plants to ripen a crop of fruit in November. In Melon houses 
artificial heat may now be dispensed with, except when dull cold 
weather prevails when the fruit is setting or ripening. Syringe grow¬ 
ing crops freely in the afternoon at about I P.M. or earlier, allowing the 
temperature to rise, but not above 90° or 95° after closing. Afford a 
plentiful supply of water at the roots, when shading of the foliage will 
seldom be needed. 
The latest plants in pits or frames will now be far advanced 
to setting their fruits, it being important that the fruit be set in 
July, or for the latest supply of fruit from frames by early August to 
allow time for its swelling and ripening. Give a good watering before 
the flowers open, line the sides of the beds with some hot dung or short 
grass, and leave the lights open about three-quarters of an inch con¬ 
stantly at the back un'il the fruit is set and commences swelling, then 
keep the growths well stopped, maintain a warm moist atmosphere 
by early closing with sun heat, sprinkling the foliage, and water 
about twice a week in bright weather or once in dull. 
Peaches and Nectarines.— Succession Houses .—AVith the fruit 
advanced towards ripening observe a course of cleanly culture. Give 
the border inside a thorough supply of water, and mulch with short but 
not rich litter. Keep the fruit with its apex up to the light, drawing 
the leaves aside or shortening them so as to colour it equally, but most, 
if anywhere, at the upper part, as it will appear that way when dished. 
The laterals should be well pinched, and the shoots tied in so as to keep 
them clear of the fruit. A’entilate freely, especially in the early part of 
the day, leaving a little ventilation constantly at the upper part of the 
house. Syringe well until the fruit commences softening, but even then 
damp the border in the morning and afternoon, as excessive evapora¬ 
tion is certain to result in red spider and thrips. 
Later Houses .—The recent rains have thoroughly moistened the soil 
of outside borders to the drainage, and inside will be in a favourable 
condition for the swelling of the fruit from wet days being taken 
advantage of to thoroughly soak them with rain water or liquid manure. 
The shoots should be tied down as they advance, not crowding them, 
but allowing each space for the exposure of its foliage to light and air. 
Stop the laterals at the first joint, and to each succeeding one as made ; 
cut back gross shoots or remove them altogether. Ventilate early and 
freely, and close early with plenty of moisture in the house, and admit 
a little air at the top before nightfall so as to allow the pent-up 
moisture to escape, and permit the atmosphere to gradually cool, so as to 
give the trees rest. Syringe forcibly twice a day, but not in dull 
weather, as it is necessary the foliage be fairly dry before nightfall 
and not kept constantly dripping with moisture. If necessary apply 
an insecticide, as under no circumstances must red spider, thrips, 
or aphides be allowed to make headway. Mulch the borders with 
some partially decayed manure—lumpy rather than such as when wet 
will form a soapy mass. 
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§1 
-IE BEE-KEEPER. 
s 
NOTES ON BEES. 
THE WEATHER. 
We have had within the past twenty years seasons with even 
less honey than the present one, but none approached the present 
one for cold and ungenial weather. No night temperature during 
the summer here has been above 45° Fahr. June ended and July 
began with a night temperature of 32°, and has been seldom much 
above that. We have had an almost continuous east or north or 
north-east wind for months, and for weeks a withering drought 
under a cloudless sky by day, and chilling winds with a leaden sky 
at night ; vegetation made little or no progress. That, combined 
with the paucity of birds, through the eggs or fledglings being 
destroyed by cold, or by being robbed, allowed the caterpillars to 
make sad havoc with the foliage and fruit, completing the de¬ 
struction that the high winds began upon the immature and tender 
foliage. For a week past copious rains have fallen which have had 
a beneficial effect on crops in general. While we have no control 
over the weather, we have over the birds, the husbandman’s best, 
friend, even though they do partake of a little of what they were 
the means of preserving. 
The inclemency of the season has had a telling effect upon bees. 
In some districts many stocks have perished, and in most cases hives 
are no further advanced now than they were in the beginning of 
May. Swarming commenced here before the beginning of May,, 
and others as far advanced but not swarmed are standing still. 
Thousands of bees are lying about chilled and dead, not so much 
from cold as from the chilly air, even with a temperature of 55°. 
Why bees can stand a low temperature of 45° at one season with 
impunity and fall dead at another with a much higher temperature 
is mysterious. The prospects of the season with bees is not 
altogether blasted. A favourable change has come, and ten days 
or so will give an abundant harvest of honey from the Clover. 
Strong hives, however, or doubled swarms with a short season, are 
the only ones to be relied upon to yield profit to the bee-keeper. 
Small hives are still recommended by some to be most profitable in 
districts having a paucity of bee flowers, but it would be quite as 
ridiculous to say that poor soil should not be cultivated if you 
expect good crops. It does not matter what the district is, the hive 
should be of the largest dimensions and to be full of bees at the 
time honey is most abundant. We have had only some six days 
this year that bees carried in excess of their daily wants, yet a, 
number of my hives have their supers nearly finished, and several 
Stewartons with two supers on are lying out. More will be added 
the moment honey begins to flow, and swarms, although late, will 
be large, and gather more than lying out or hives bent on swarming, 
and two joined will excel any other system. 
RAISING QUEENS. 
This has been delayed through stress of weather and dis¬ 
appointment with stock queens bought, as Benton’s first grade, 
which have proved themselves to be complete mongrels, while I have 
positive proof that the dealer who supplied these had not a single 
queen from Benton. We have heard much about foreign bees 
being unsatisfactory, and that Carniolian bees were scarcely dis¬ 
tinguishable from the native blacks. The latter statement is mis¬ 
leading, because there is a great difference in the appearance and 
habits of the Carniolian bees from the native ones, and shows 
that some persons have never had experience with the true breed 
of that excellent and docile race of bees, while in the former 
case, if mongrels have been supplied instead of the pure breed, 
explains thoroughly the cause of failure. 
At a late date, but early enough for the season, I have young 
queens coming forward that will be introduced in a few days to 
suitable stocks, which along with others will be removed at the 
