July 19, 1888. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
55 
vegetable matters remaining in the soil, and thus renders them a fit 
pabulum for the future crop. In like manner the lime would also burn 
up the tender shoots of fresh plants and sterilise instead of fructifying 
the ground ; but Nature has so ordered it that as the lime falls to powder 
on the land it should gradually absorb carbonic acid from the atmosphere, 
which deprives it of its causticity and converts it into chalk. Hence 
lime and chalk are particularly useful on sai;dy soils.” It is also an 
acknowledged fact that chalk when applied to heavy soils makes them 
less retentive of moisture, and light sandy soils more retentive. 
Concerning the explanation advanced as to why plants of Erica 
hyemalis so frequently become candidates for the rubbish heap when 
they pass from the hand of the market grower, while those retained by 
those growers do not share the same fate. This explanation scarcely 
goes far enough. Granted that the flowers on the plants kept in the 
market growers’ hands would be cut while in full beauty, while those in 
private establishments would not be cut back till the flowers faded, 
that might give those first named the chance of making stronger growth, 
but would not be sufficient to account for one set of plants dying while 
the others were making splendid growths. Neither does it show that 
the bulk of phosphoric and potassic constituents would have become 
absorbed by the vigorous growth promoted by the use of nitrate of soda, 
as we have kept plants in the same pots for two years without their 
showing any diminution of energy, although no other stimulant but 
nitrate of soda was used. But in the case of the market grower’s plants 
they would be repotted to make larger specimens, and consequently 
have a fresh supply of the elements above mentione.1 in the soil. My 
answers to the questions at issue, as summed up by Mr. Coombe, I will 
give in as few words as possible. In reply to the query, Is a change of 
food necessary for plants ? I think my arguments serve to show that if 
not absolutely necessary it enables us to produce the best results by 
turning the natural resources at our command to the most profitable 
use in a simple and practical manner, according to the varying stages of 
growth that plants pass through. As to the possibility of producing a 
perfect plant food, I consider it may be accomplished in exceptional 
cases, but would be too expensive a system to become general for all 
classes of plants. Thirdly, Will experience triumph over science ? My 
firm conviction on this point is that they are dependent upon each other. 
Together they will help forward the march of gardening, and achieve 
the future triumphs of the horticultural world ; and my concluding 
advice to my '‘scientific opponent,” finds ready expression in the grand 
old motto, “ Be just before you are generous.” Do not let your generous 
enthusiasm for science lead you to deny to practical experience the 
just share of honour it must ever claim in the future achievements of 
gardening. — H. Dun kin. 
VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION. 
TOMATOES. 
Tiierk is no necessity to enlarge upon the merits of a good dish 
of Tomatoes and the weight it has in either a large or small 
collection of vegetables, as few need to be told how much judges 
are influenced by them. What we have to consider is how they 
may be produced in perfection when most wanted. Some seasons, 
such for instance as those of 1886 and 1887, very good fruits may 
be had late in July and during August from plants in the open air ; 
but as a rule these ought not to be wholly depended upon, or the 
dish of prize fruits may not be forthcoming. At this time of year, 
or say from May to September inclusive, there is in numerous 
gardens a certain amount of house room that might well be devoted 
to the culture of Tomatoes. I do not assert that they are abso¬ 
lutely safe under glass, as of late years a disease known as 
Cladisporium fulvum has developed, proving even more destructive 
among house grown crops than even the better known Potato 
disease in the case of those grown in the open air. As a rule, 
however, the handsomest and best coloured fruits are obtained 
from plants under glass, and it is to the cultivation of these I 
shall principally devote this paper. 
Forcing houses or high temperatures are not needed, Tomatoes 
doing better during the summer months in warm or sunny green¬ 
houses, fruit houses, or pits and frames. Supposing the first dish 
is wanted early in J uly the seed should have been sown early in 
March, a month later being quite soon enough when the fruit is 
most needed during August. Being continuous bearing there is no 
harm done if the plants mature a few fruits before they are 
needed, but the first clusters are generally the finest, and we try to 
time these for the shows. Seed should be sown thinly and set in 
•gentle heat to germinate. When the seedlings are in rough leaf 
they ought to be placed near the glass, and also thinned if need be, 
the aim being to keep them as sturdy as possible. First place them 
cither singly in 5-inch pots or in pairs in 6-inch pots, using light 
loamy soil, and sinking the seedlings up to the seed leaves. Fine 
strongly rooted plants ought to be the result, and these require to 
be shifted into their fruiting quarters before they become badly 
root-bound. Whether they shall be fruited in large pots, tubs, 
boxes, or planted out must depend upon circumstances. Either of 
the former plans is suitable for greenhouse stagings, tubs or boxes, 
though rather unsightly, being, however, preferable as affording 
more root room and not requiring such frequent attention in 
watering. 
When planted out the roots ought to be confined to a rather 
narrow border or ridge of soil, or otherwise the top growth is apt 
to be much too vigorous. To obviate the latter difficulty we 
usually place our plants in 1’2-inch pots, and set these on the 
borders. The roots soon spread into the soil underneath, but not 
to such an extent as to defeat the object in view. This plan is to 
be specially commended where the blank spaces on the walls and 
front trellises of Peach houses are utilised for Tomato culture, in 
which positions remarkably fine crops of fruit are frequently 
obtained. It is also advisable in the case of plants grown in pits in 
succession to Potatoes, Beans, or other crops, and which are to be 
trained over temporary trellises. A compost most suitable for 
Tomatoes consists of two parts of turfy loam roughly chopped up 
to one of old Mushroom bed manure, or some substitute for the 
latter, but any good loamy soil answers well. When first placed in 
either lightly drained pots, tubs, or boxes these should only be 
about three parts filled with soil, this allowing space for a good top¬ 
dressing of rich compost later on, or when the first clusters of fruit 
are set. 
Much of the foregoing advice is offered too late to be of any 
real service this season, and I shall endeavour to remedy this some¬ 
what by advising more fully upon the treatment of plants as they 
now are in many gardens, reserving comments upon the November 
crops for a separate paper. Overcrowding is one of the most 
frequent causes of failure, this being brought about either by 
planting too thickly, or by allowing much superfluous growth to 
form. The consequence of crowding in any way is weakly flowers 
and a poor set, and it often happens fewer plants or leading 
growths would have given much finer crops of fruit. I prefer 
training each plant to a single stem, or what is known as the 
single cordon system, and every strong plant in single rows may 
well be not less than 15 inches apart—this whether staked up¬ 
rightly or trained up a roof, trellis, or wires. Such should have 
all side shoots cut or rubbed out as fast as they form, the lead 
only being unstopped. Thus treated, a series of strong bunches 
of bloom forms, this being followed by clusters of fine fruits. 
Where there is plenty of wall or roof space to be covered single 
plants may be allowed to form several leads, a distance of 12 inches 
dividing each reserved shoot, these to have all side shoots rubbed 
out as often as necessary. We have taken extra good crops from 
plants in pots set on a fruit border and trained thinly over a front 
trellis, and also from others rooting in boxes and set on a green¬ 
house stage. Not only is it necessary to keep all leading growths 
free of side shoots, which, if left for a few days even, much weaken 
the main stems, but it is also advisable in the case of very robust 
plants to either cut away some of the leaves, or to reduce their size 
somewhat. When growing strongly, as most Tomato plants now 
are, they require almost daily attention in the way of stopping and 
training, and a week’s neglect may much injure them. 
With many it is found a difficult matter to effect a good set, 
especially in the early part of the season. When, however, the 
plants receive abundance of room, sunshine, and air, plenty of 
pollen is formed, and this, being dry before midday, may be dis¬ 
tributed by smartly tapping the stems or trellises, or the syringe 
may be employed for a similar purpose. Most varieties are apt to 
form one very large fasciated bloom, this, when reserved, taking 
the lead and much weakening the rest of the flowers that not un- 
frequently fall prematurely. Seeing that these ugly flowers are 
invariably followed by coarse and monstrous fruits, it is unwise to 
leave them on the plant, as large and handsome, and not rough 
misformed fruit, are required for exhibition purposes. Pinch them 
off as soon as detected, and the other well-formed flowers will soon 
be benefited thereby, and a cluster of perfectly formed fruit be the 
result. Two or three fruit in one cluster are usually ample, and 
early thinning should be resorted to. 
A few other details yet remain to be briefly touched upon, top¬ 
dressing being one of the most important of them, no other plant 
being more quickly benefited by a timely addition to the surface 
soil. It is most needed when plants in pots or boxes have set their 
first fruit, while any, whether the plants or young or old, that are 
rooting in a small ridge of soil ought also to be top-dressed directly 
they give signs of partial exhaustion. The old soil underneath 
being kept properly moistened without much regard being paid to 
the state of the fresh compost, the roots quickly take possession of 
the latter, and a marked improvement in the appearance of the 
plants will soon be visible. Apparently worn-out plants may be 
quickly renovated with the aid of surface dressings, and be made to 
produce a good crop of handsome fruit. When growing strongly 
Tomatoes require plenty of water, and those well set with fruit 
should also have liquid manure frequently. Either farmyard, 
liquid manure, or any of the advertised artificial manures, are suit- 
