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JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 19, 1888. 
must not be any lack of moisture at the roots, and weakly trees may be 
assisted with weak liquid manure. Ventilate to the fullest possible 
extent, and when the buds are sufficiently plump and the wood mature 
remove the roof lights. The chief thing to guard against in early-forced 
trees is premature ripening of the foliage. It is well to allow a 
moderate extension of the laterals, especially when the buds are 
prominent, so as to attract the sap from the buds and so keep them 
dormant, as any undue excitement will cause them to expand. Any 
trees not in a satisfactory condition should be marked for renovation of 
the border, whether it be lifting the roots of trees that do not set and 
stone the fruit satisfactorily, or those that from weakness need vigour 
by an addition of fresh soil, so as to cause an increase of roots in order 
to secure a better supply of aliment. This is best effected after the 
buds are plumped and the wood is mature, yet whilst the leaves are 
upon the trees, so as to facilitate the root-action, which promptly follows 
judicious and careful lifting, the trees not receiving any check if proper 
precautions are taken in shading from bright sun and damping as well 
as sprinkling the foliage until the trees have formed fresh roots. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Gardenias .—Keep those intended for early autumn and winter 
flowering cooler, and the plants can be exposed to full sunshine and 
ventilation, so that their growth may be thoroughly matured. This must 
be done gradually, or instead of attaining the object in view failure 
will follow. For early flowers it is necessary to ripen the wood as early 
as possible, and then with an increase in the temperature the plants 
will soon form and swell their flower buds. Young plants rooted in 
August last will be strong and fully 15 inches in diameter. Allow the 
shoots to extend, admitting air daily to insure sturdy growth, and fully 
■expose them to the sun. Soot water and oth r diluted stimulants may 
now be given once a week. A little artificial manure applied to the 
surface of the soil will be found beneficial. Plants rooted early in the 
year may have their shoots pinched once more ; if not in 5 and 6-inch 
pots transfer them to those sizes at once. Insert cuttings of young 
shoots for next year’s stock of plants. 
Ixoras .—Young plants that have flowered may be pruned and 
started again into growth in brisk heat. They should be grown fully 
exposed to the sun, with the general stock raised from 'cuttings at 
different times. When the plants are in active growth admit a little air 
daily, and if they are arranged close to the glass they will make firm 
short-jointed wood that is certain to flower. Plants grown in a close 
moist shaded atmosphere seldom flower satisfactorily. Large plants 
that have flowered may be partially pruned and started again into 
growth. Any shoots that have not flowered may be inserted in 2-inch 
pots, and will root readily and quickly in the propagating frame. If 
grown on afterwards many of these will flower this season, but those 
that do not will be useful for early flowering another year in 4 and 
5-inch pots. Watch for thrips, which quickly destroy the foliage of 
these plants. A thorough syringing with a weak solution of tobacco 
water is the best means of dealing with them. Do not allow these 
plants to suffer by an insufficient supply of water at their roots ; at the 
same time be careful not to overwater them, for they will quickly 
present an unhealthy appearance if the soil becomes sour. 
Crotons. -These should be rooted in quantity where highly coloured 
well furnished plants are in demand for various forms of decoration 
during the autumn and winter months. Large heads can be rooted 
without losing a single leaf if they are taken off where the wood is soft. 
(Small cuttings never make such handsome plants as those rooted with 
well coloured, fully developed leaves at the base. Good heads may be 
rooted in 4 or 5-inch pots as well as in those of a smaller size. Place in 
the centre of the pots a little sand for the base of the cuttings to rest 
upon, then water liberally and rlunge the pots in the propagating 
frame. Shade from the sun and keep the frame close until roots have 
been formed. Directly they are rooted gradually harden and expose 
them to the light. The plants from which the heads have been taken 
may be allowed to break again, and the shoots produced when they have 
developed a few leaves will be suitable for rooting in 2 and 3-inch pots. 
Dracccna Goldiana .—Plants that have grown too tall for ordinary 
use may have their tops re-rooted. Be careful to take them off where 
the wood is soft, or it will be a long time before roots are formed. 
When the base of the stems is moderately soft they root quickly and 
readily without losing a leaf. The heads may be inserted in 4 or 5-inch 
pots, and after they have been watered plunge them in handlights 
where gentle bottom heat can be given. Dracaenas gracilis and Linden! 
may be treated in tee same way. If the stems are kept they will yield 
cuttings from the axils of the leaves, which can be taken off and rooted 
any time when large enough. 
FLOWER. GARDEN. 
Bulbous and Similar Plants .—Most of the spring-flowering bulbs are 
now matured, but it is unwise to lift them, either with the idea that 
they are more surely preserved out of the ground, or with the motive of 
ciividing the clumps. Lifting, drying and keeping in sand or other some¬ 
what dry material has a most weakening effect on the bulbs ; where is 
when Irises, Narcissi, Hyacinths, Snowdrops, Tulips, Anemones, Bulbo- 
codiums, Crocuses, Fritillarias, Lachenalias’and Erythroniums are left 
in the ground they continue to improve.>Just as they are comin°- 
through the ground is the best time to lift and carefully divide them 
should this be desirable, and being at once replanted without much 
injury to the young roots, they will flower the same season. Those 
moved when in a dormant state, this including wild Orchids, will flower 
the first season after, but not often in the next. Those bulbs lifted 
from the flower beds and laid in to ripen, may either be left in the ground 
till wanted again in the autumn, or they can have the dead foliage 
cleared off, and be then packed in boxes of sand or fine soil. Ranun¬ 
culuses require this treatment. 
Ilardy Bedding Plants .—These must now be attended to, as they 
cannot well be too strong or well rooted when transplanted to the. beds 
next autumn. North borders are of the greatest service in preparing a 
number of plants that delight in a cool position, notably Daisies, 
Primulas, Polyanthuses, Alyssum, and other useful plants. Plenty of 
leaf soil, old Mushroom-bed manure, decayed tan, or other somewhat 
similar material ought to be well stirred into the surface, plants moving 
well out of soil thus treated. All the plants named, as well as Ajuga 
reptans rubra, Arabises, Iberises, Hepaticas, Forget-me-nots, Saxifragas 
in variety, and Aubrietias, are readily divided, and should at once be 
deeply and firmly dibbled out in lines across the border, and watered in 
if need be. Violas and Pansies after they have pushed up fresh growth 
may also be freely divided and planted out in nursery beds. Gentians 
ought not to be divided unless extra strong, as they are somewhat im¬ 
patient of rough treatment. 
Seeds and Cuttings in Handlights .—Either handlights or frames are 
of good service for propagating purposes, especially in a showery season, 
or when seedlings cannot be preserved from slugs in the open. The 
north side of a wall or other somewhat cool yet not much darkened 
positions are the best places for setting these, bright sunshine being 
especially harmful to cuttings. If Wallflowers and Stocks have failed 
in the open, sow in these handlights or frames at once, and thinly, so as 
to admit of the seedlings being transplanted with a tiny ball of soil with 
the roots. It is rather late to sow Pansies, Sweet Williams, Campanulas, 
Carnations, Primulas, Polyanthuses, and Myosotises, but the seed soon 
germinates under glass, and small plants are often serviceable. 
Cuttings or pieces pulled off double Wallflowers, Myosotises, Euony- 
muses, Alyssums, Iberises, dibbled in thickly in handlights or frames, 
watered in and kept shaded during that part of the day when the sun¬ 
shine reaches a north border, rarely fail to strike root quickly. About 
3 inches depth of fine sandy compost is preferable to ordinary garden 
soil, both as regards favouring an early strike, and also because the young 
plants are more easily and safely moved out of it. 
Violets .—Divisions of both double and single varieties ought now to 
be growing strongly, red spider being less troublesome than usual. 
They thrive best when the old stem is quite buried, and any exposed 
ought to have the soil drawn up to them. 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 
It is generally understood that I prefer keeping my bees in 
such a state that feeding is never resorted to unless the seasons 
are, like the present one, untoward and non-honey yielding. But 
even in the present summer, when hail and snow fell on the 
10th of July, and only nine days on which I could say that the 
bees gathered honey in little excess of their daily wants, I have 
only given each stock half a pound of sugar on an average. 
Although the weather is now more genial, it lias rain.d almost 
constantly for three days, with but little signs of improving. 
When bees require food, except in the case of swarms, it should 
be given them continuously and rapidly until they have had 
enough ; and the handiest of all feeders, and the ones from which 
the bees take up the sugar quickest, are the under ones, such 
as I have described in previous articles, or the old-fashioned 
fountain. 
For districts where the honey season does not begin until the 
end of June, such as our own, nuclei of not more than 2 lbs. of 
bees make the best stocks and give most satisfaction. Old queens 
I never depend on, even at one year. For early districts where 
the honey season begins in April or May stronger stocks should be 
kept, and in some late cold places it is advisable to follow the same 
course, but it would be wise of the bee-keeper to make experiments 
on this line. In all cases never allow the bees to have combs to 
make the current year of their working ; either feed in September 
or make up from others until the hive is full. Should that not be 
possible full-sized sheets of foundation must be employed. 
THE BEST HIVE. 
For all purposes'this is undoubtedly the Lanarkshire tiering, 
but hitherto the much-abused hive. With but slight alterations I 
