■July 26, 1888. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
67 
■should not be old and tough. Canadian Wonder and Negro Long- 
pod are the finest Kidney Beans, and amongst the runners there 
are none to surpass Ne Plus Ultra, Carter's Jubilee, Girtford Giant, 
and the Czar. 
Vegetable Marrows may safely, if required, be given a place in 
a collection of eight kinds, though not if all those already com¬ 
mented on are in the best condition. On no account should full- 
grown Marrows be shown, either in a collection or single dish. 
What is wanted are two or more fruits of the Long White, these 
being about 9 inches long, of one thickness throughout, very fresh¬ 
looking, and without a blemish on them. A brace that varies in 
■age, size, or form ought not to stand any chance whatever against 
specimens that I have described. Young Marrows are easily bruised, 
and each ought therefore to be wrapped up separately in soft paper, 
■even if only a short distance has to be traversed to reach the show 
ground. 
Turnips during the summer months are seldom fit to be included 
in a limited collection, but if quickly grown clean roots of Snowball 
or Veitch’s Red Globe are available they would count well. A 
perfect root would have only a one mouse-tail-like tap root, which 
ought not to be cut off, and any that need much trimming are of 
little value. They may be near the size of a cricket ball or rather 
less, should have the leaves shortened, the bulbs carefully washed 
■clean, and each packed separately in paper, or they may soon dis¬ 
figure each other. 
Broad Beans cannot be classed very highly, and are seldom 
included in limited collections after July. The very finest is 
"Carter’s Leviathan, and a well selected number of straight, and not 
very old pods 12 inches long and upwards are not to be despised. 
The Seville Longpod also grows to a good length, and hand¬ 
some dishes of it are frequently shown. Beet is scarcely telling 
enough in small collections, but ought to be included in unlimited 
collections. For the summer shows Carter’s Crimson Ball, a 
■superior form of the Egyptian or Turnip-rooted, is to be re¬ 
commended, these being selected, cleansed, and staged exactly as 
advised in the case of Turnips. Celery, as before stated must be 
■extra fine and well blanched, if included during July or August in 
a collection of eight kinds of vegetables. Wright’s Grove White is 
sometimes seen in good condition at summer shows, and the Incom¬ 
parable Dwarf White is also suitable for early work. Grove Red, 
Standard Bearer, and Sulham Prize are all shown well at different 
places towards the end of August. Celery must not be trimmed 
very hard, and ought to be washed quite clean. If Cabbages must 
be included in a collection, select medium sized conical heads 
in preference to very hard overgrown samples too often seen at 
shows. Veitch’s Earliest of All is fine for exhibition, and the 
Heartwell Marrow is also good in every respect. Mushrooms 
must be very fresh and even in size, or they are no good at 
the summer shows, nor should Parsnips be shown unless in un¬ 
limited collections, or in single dishes. They ought to be very 
•clean and straight. Lettuces are a very poor substitute for any of 
the preceding vegetables, but are often shown in single classes. 
Anybody’s Superb Cos, or a good selection of Paris White Cos, 
is hard to beat, and Veitch’s Perfect Gem is the best Cabbage 
Lettuce for the summer shows. Lettuces should be lifted, the 
Cos varieties being previously tied up, but not trimmed in any way, 
and have some moist moss bound about the roots. When cut for 
■exhibition these soon flag badly. Never select any on the point of 
bolting, as these get worse after a short stay in a warm tent.— 
Exhibitor. 
GARDENERS’ ORPHAN FUND. 
At the conclusion of the first year of the above it is a source of 
gratification to me to review the success which has attended our 
efforts, and which is due to the hearty co-operation of all concerned. 
I take this opportunity of returning my personal thanks to all 
associated with me in this matter, and also to the many gentlemen 
who have undertaken the office of local secretaries, and worked so 
zealously in the cause. The dinner, as is now well known, was 
equally a success—thanks to the numerous kind contributions of 
fruit, plants, and flowers. The room and tables presented an 
appearance which called forth unqualified expressions of admira¬ 
tion from the most competent and impartial critics. 
It now affords me no small degree of pleasure to be able to 
state that we are commencing the second year equally well, being 
empowered, as I am, to announce that Mr. Sherwood (Messrs Hurst 
and Sons) in token of the interest he takes in the movement, has 
generously offered to place an orphan upon the fund at his own 
expense in accordance with Rule 12, thus increasing the number of 
recipients from ten to eleven. The name and particulars of the 
annuitant will be announced in due course. 
It would afford me, and I may add the Committee also, much 
pleasure if any other gentleman blessed with an abundance of this 
world’s goods were to emulate this noble example. I can only say 
that there are plenty of deserving applicants to whom such a favour 
would be of the utmost service and benefit.— Geo. Deal, Chairman. 
PROPAGATION OF CONIFERS AND SHRUBS. 
It is not often that gardeners in private establishments under¬ 
take the increase of trees, shrubs, and Conifers, but the propagation 
of many kinds by means of cuttings is easy, as they can be readily 
rooted and quickly grown into neat little bushes. A cold frame is 
all the protection required in the way of glass, but it is better if 
two smaller ones can bo appropriated instead of one of the same 
size as the two, for the reason that some sorts require a longer 
time to root than others. Those that need more time can have 
the protection of the extra frame, while if the plants are kept 
together at the time of insertion, the early rooted plants can be 
transferred to other positions some months before the latest varie¬ 
ties. The size of the frame must be regulated by the require¬ 
ments of the cultivator. 
A shallow frame answers the best, for the reason that when new 
growth commences it is not drawn up weakly through being so far 
from the glass. The bottom of the frame should be covered with 
coal ashes, thorough drainage being essential. Over this have a 
layer 2 inches thick of decomposed horse manure or half-decayed 
leaves, into which the roots penetrate, as the soil clings better to the 
roots when manure or leaf soil in a rough state is present. Over 
this lay the soil 3 inches thick, which should be composed of equal 
parts loam, peat, leaf soil, and sharp silver sand. Many of the 
plants which are to go into the soil are really peat-loving, therefore 
it is necessary that peat be used; while some of the kinds would 
do equally well without, still none object to this mixture. Make 
the soil quite firm, that it be not of a spongy nature, as much 
depends upon the firm manner in which the cuttings are inserted. 
If the soil be moist, as it should be when used, no difficulty will be 
experienced. Over the soil place half an inch thickness of coarse 
silver sand, as when the holes are made for the cuttings some of 
the sand is carried down to the bottom of the hole with the dibber. 
Water the soil with a fine-rose waterpot, when all will be ready for 
the cuttings. This preparation should be made before the cuttings 
are obtained, as no delay in inserting them must occur after they 
are severed from the parent plants. 
According to my experience the best time to take the cuttings 
is during the early part of September, when the current season’s 
growth will be partly ripened, sufficiently so to make callusing an 
easier matter than if the insertion of the cuttings be delayed until 
the following month. Where it is possible the cuttings should be 
pulled or slipped off, retaining a small portion of older wood, which 
is more suitable for forming roots than the parts only of the current 
year’s growth. Particularly does this apply to Conifers. The length 
of the cuttings must be determined by the plant under consideration, 
as, for instance, Retinospora plumosa may be 2 inches long, and 
Thuiopsis will need to be at least 4 inches long to obtain the 
necessary cut at the base containing a small portion of firm wood. 
Select the cuttings in the manner described, cut square across below 
a joint, trimming off the lower branches or feather as far as is 
required for the cutting to go into the soil. Fix them firmly at the 
bottom of the hole with the dibber. Fill the holes again with sand 
and give a gentle watering to settle the soil about the cuttings. 
Unless the sun be very powerful after this time no more water will 
be required until the spring beyond a light sprinkling should the 
surface become dry, which will depend upon the state of the 
weather. For a time shade the cuttings during the hottest part of 
the day. Yentilation will not be required except a little now and 
then to evaporate moisture, which will otherwise cause the cuttings 
to suffer. During the winter protect the sides of the frame with 
manure or leaves to prevent the soil in the frame being frozen 
too hard, as this has the effect of loosening the soil about the 
cuttings when it thaws, and then roots are not so quickly formed. 
Double mats thrown over the frame in severe weather will be 
beneficial in this respect. 
In the spring, when it is seen that new growth is being formed, 
air should be admitted freely to keep the plants stocky, as much 
depends on this for their future welfare in forming shapely bushes. 
A western aspect for the frame answers well, perhaps better than 
a southern position, for the reason that if some of the cuttings do 
not root so readily as others, the powerful sun sometimes ex¬ 
perienced during April and May will dry them too much. As 
before stated, some kinds root more quickly than others, and are 
ready to be removed from the frame during the early part of the 
following June, and be planted either in their permanent quarters 
or be transferred to a nursery bed for a season. When removal 
from the frame takes place the advantage of a layer of manure or 
leaf soil will be seen in the manner the roots cling to it, rendering 
