84 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 20, 1888. 
pretty, being composed of light sprays of Maidenhair Fern and blooms 
of Spanish Iris, the whole looking charmingly beautiful and chaste. 
Miss Dent was second, but hers was not nearly so pretty as the last 
named. Only one bouquet was shown, but this was well arranged and 
composed of choice flowers. Miss E. Helmer was the winner of a first 
prize for this. Three lots of buttonholes were shown. Miss Helmer being 
first and Miss Dent second. Miss Bidwell was first for the best arranged 
basket of flowers, and Miss E. M. Kenward second. 
There were in addition to the foregoing a number of classes set apart 
for cottagers and amateurs, and these were all fairly well contested. 
Croups of plants were contributed by Messrs. J. Laing & Sons, B. Mailer 
and Sons, and others, and wreaths and crosses by W. Garton, nursery¬ 
man, Blackheath. Messrs. Laing also showed a collection of cut Boses 
not for competition. 
WOKK.foiItheWEEK.. 
n 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The Weather and Vegetables.— The present season is too wet 
and sunless for most vegetables. Turnips have formed an unusual 
amount of top growth, but the roots are small. Peas are tall and 
luxuriant, but they do not fill well. Broad Beans are failing to produce 
many flowers. Runner Beans a; e late—we shall not gather any during 
July ; but the dwarfs in the open are ready, thus showing the advan¬ 
tage of sowing the latter as well as the former. The Potato crop we are 
most concerned about; last year diseased tubers were quite excep¬ 
tional ; the year before that, and indeed for several years previous, the 
•crops were wonderfully good, but a dripping July almost invariably 
produces much disease. 
Maggots. —Last year, although hot and dry, vegetables were free 
.from maggots at their roots. Onions, Carrots, and other crops were 
never touched, but we fear they are not going to enjoy the same immunity 
this year, as we know of several instances where the maggots are attack¬ 
ing the Carrots and Onions. This is bad news, and efforts must be made 
at once to check them. A good sprinkling of soot, gas lime, or salt 
should be strewn amongst the plants, to be washed down with the rain, 
and where it is too late to save the crops sow a ain. Carrots of the 
Horn type if sown at once will gain full size before November. There 
is no use in being disheartened by a failure this year. Sow again and 
persevere, but before doing so take the precaution to dress the ground 
well with some of the ingredients named above. 
Coleworts. —Some imagine this to be a very distinct vegetable, but 
it is really only a form of Cabbage, and Cabbage planted in July may 
often be taken for Coleworts in November, but they are not so hardy as 
the Rosette Colewort, and this is the variety that should be grown. To 
be of any use they must be planted out before July is over. They do 
not grow to a large size, and may be planted at a distance of 15 inches 
apart. They are equally as hardy, and more delicate on the table than 
Savoys in winter. 
Celery. —We cultivated a quarter of the American White Plume 
Celery the first season it was introduced, and have done so ever since ; 
but we have more than usual this year, as it is useful in the autumn. 
Gur earliest plants are 2 feet high, very white ; in fact, in good condition 
for present use or showing. But this novelty'has not induced us to give 
up the ordinary Celery, and no one should do this, as we must all depend 
upon these for winter and spring use. The earliest rows in the trenches 
may be earthed a little. Break off the small side leaves before com¬ 
mencing this operation. Dust the stems with soot, and then break the 
soil well up along each side of the trench, and put it up to the stems 
with the hands. This is not such a quick way of earthing as pushing 
the soil in and about them with the spade, but it is the best way to 
prevent the plants being spoiled by the soil falling into their centres. 
More late plants may still be placed out, and if some are planted 
•on the level ground they will be useful for flavouring. 
Open Air Tomatoes. —These are now receiving a great deal of 
.attention, but it is not a good season for succeeding thoroughly with 
them, as they delight in plenty of sunshine. The only way to secure a 
crop this year is to keep them very bare of foliage,, and expose the fruit 
as much as possible, only one or two main stems being taken up from 
each plant, and some of the largest of the leaves on these may be cut off. 
Eight, ten, or a dozen fruits may form as a cluster, but if the smallest 
of these are removed and only three or four left on each cluster they 
will have a much better chance of gaining a good size and ripening. 
Do not overwater them, and avoid giving them, liquid, as under present 
circumstances this would only tend to make them form a superabundance 
of foliage. Some time ago we plunged a quantity of plants in 6-inch 
pots along the bottom of a south wall, and these are bearing much better 
■than tjiose which were planted out. 
Capsicums and Egg Plants. —These may both lie grown together, 
but neither will succeed in the open ; and if warmer quarters than a 
cold frame can be given them they will be benefited by it. Do not over¬ 
pot them. Let the plants become root-bound if plenty of fruit is 
desired. Syringe frequently to keep them free from insects, and close 
early in the afternoon to induce the fruit to ripen. 
Cabbages for Early Sp-ing. —It is now well known that Cab¬ 
bages are more valuable and acceptable in early spring than at any 
other time. They can never be too early or too good, and the present 
is the best of all times to sow the seed. We always sow during the last 
week in July. Good varieties are numerous. Form a bed large enough 
to raise sufficient plants to meet the demands. Make the soil moderately 
rich, sow the seed broadcast, and cover it with the surrounding soil to 
the depth of half an inch. See that the young plants are not destroyed 
by birds or insects, and keep them free from weetls. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines.— Earliest House .—The Vines now require a dry atmosphere 
to thoroughly ripen the wood, but it will not be necessary to employ 
artificial heat to secure the requisite warmth. Free ventilation will be 
all that is in most cases necessary, but where the Vines are vigorous and 
have a tendency to strong growth in the laterals the house may be kept 
at from 80° to 85° by day by reducing the ventilation, yet not entirely 
closing the house, and throw the ventilators fully open at night. Syringe 
occasionally to cleanse the foliage of red spider. The border must not 
be allowed to become parchingly dry; a mulching of any spent litter 
will prevent evaporation and the surface cracking. Cover the outside 
border, if the weather be ver_y wet, with lights to throw off the rain. 
Keep all laterals and late growths well in hand, and they must not in 
any case be allowed to interfere with the access of light and air to the 
principal leaves, and they must not be reduced to such an extent as to 
cause buds below the first stopping to start ; therefore, lateral reduction 
must be practised with judgment. In the case of weakly Vines an 
extension of the laterals will tend to promote an increased root action, 
and an application of liquid manure contribute to the plumping of the 
buds. Such Vines should not be pruned too closely, allowing the 
growth to extend as far as circumstances allow. 
Vines in Pots .—Those for next season's fruiting will have completed 
their growth, and cannot have too much light. Give only enough water 
to keep the leaves fresh ; but if the soil is too dry it will induce prema¬ 
ture ripening, and excess of water will unduly prolong the growth. 
Young Vines of the Current Year's Planting.—Wove thorn to make 
all the growth practicable consistent with the exposure of the foliage 
,to light, Nothing is gained by crowding the foliage of young Vines, 
not even those that have to be cut back to three or four eyes at the 
winter pruning, whilst any that are to afford fruit next season should 
have the laterals rather closely pinched back to a length of 6 or 7 feet 
of the canes, the canes being stopped at that length, above which the 
laterals'may have more latitude, as they will aid in the production of 
roots. 
Midseason Houses .—The Grapes in these are commencing to colour. 
The inside border should have a thorough soaking with liquid manure 
or a surface dressing of some approved fertiliser applied, and washed in 
with rain or pond water. If well water be used it should be brought to 
a temperature equal to the mean of the house before being applied. 
With a mulching 2 to 3 inches thick of some short but only partially 
decayed material, as stable litter freed of the strawy portions, the water¬ 
ing will hardly require to be repeated, but it is necessary to distinguish 
between varieties that ripen in a short time and those that require 
nearly double the period. Black Ilamburghs and similar sorts ripen in 
much less time than Muscats, and those do not require so long a time 
as the thick-skinned varieties, therefore the waterings must be con¬ 
tinued longer for the latter than the former, and so as to suit the re¬ 
quirements of each. Moderate air moisture is necessary for preserving 
the health of the foliage and to ensure the swelling of the crop, which 
is considerable as regards the size of the berries after they commence 
ripening. Admit air freely, a little constantly so as to insure a circu¬ 
lation constantly, increasing it early so as to prevent the air moisture 
being condensed on the berries. Maintain a night temperature of 70°, 
5° more by day, noth 80° to 85° from sun heat. Muscats should have a 
night temperature of 70° to 75°, and 80° to 85° or 90° by day. Vines 
that are carrying heavy crop3 require more time, allowing the tempera¬ 
ture to fall to 65° or even 60’ to rest the Vines, and they should be en¬ 
couraged to extend, rather than be checked by closely pinching the 
laterals. Varieties that are liable to crack must have a heavier mulch¬ 
ing of dry material, and great care be taken to prevent moisture being 
deposited on the berries, admitting air freely, and keeping a gentle 
warmth in the pipes. 
Houses of Ilipe Grapes. — White Grapes assume more colour by 
exposure to light, and they are more subject to spot and decay 
through moisture in the atmosphere. During moist weather, therefore, 
a constant circulation of air must be kept to prevent moisture condensing, 
which will necessitate gentle heat in the pipes. Black Grapes will not 
keep colour long unless the foliage is good, nor plump unless moderate 
air moisture is present. A double thickness of herring nets placed over 
the roof lights will assist in preserving the colour aDd bloom. Afford 
sufficient moisture at the roots to maintain the foliage in good condition. 
If the necessity for water arises (and it is no use waiting until the 
berries shrivel, for no amount of water afterwards will restore them to 
plumpness) afford it in the early part of a fine day, and afford air freely 
so as to dissipate moisture from the surface before the necessity arises 
of withdrawing it for the day. A temperature of 60° will be ample at 
night and 5° more by day artificially. 
Houses of Late Ilamburghs .—These will not require artificial heat 
unless the weather be unusually cold, as has been lately, necessitating 
