124 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
I Augu.'t 9, 1888 
sand too often contains more than enough. Much circumspection, and a 
knowledge of the character of the clay, are indispensable before acting 
in the matter. It is not easy to explain what are the features of a clay 
which may be converted into a fitting bed for the Rhododendron ; one 
from which bricks are made is rarely suitable, especially if in burning 
those bricks shrink very much, but the stiff soils where the Brake Fern 
is found luxuriating may often be advantageously planted with Rhodo¬ 
dendrons. 
I have mentioned that the hard stone of the oolite formation, mingled 
with earth of a kindred description, often furnishes a singular but good 
soil for this plant; a not less suitable one is often met with where sand¬ 
stone prevails, and I have seen plantations of this plant entirely amongst 
the refuse of a freestone quarry, as it was called in the north of England, 
differing merely in its component parts from the Bath stone so exten¬ 
sively used about London. This sandstone debris seems well adapted for 
the growth of the Rhododendron, and where it abounds the plant may 
be tried with every prospect of success. Indeed, I am not sure but 
crushed sandstone may be used with advantage in those cases where 
an artificial compost is necessary, or has to be added to the clays above 
referred to. 
Other descriptions of soils might be discussed, but I have said enough 
to give the general reader an idea of what is suitable for the growth of 
the.Rhododendron, or rather the soils are described in which it will 
thrive tolerably well, while I have attempted to point out those of a 
contrary description. I shall now turn to another phase of Rhododen¬ 
dron cultivation—one to which less attention has been hitherto paid 
than to soils—and that is the rearing of plants. 
Preparation of the Young Plants for Planting Out.— 
Simple as this may appear, I believe it has more effect on the ultimate 
success of the plantation than is often allowed. It is not by any means 
sufficient to order a number of plants from a nursery and plant them 
at once ; such a course has seldom been so successful as desired, and a 
casual glance at once explains why. In general the Rhododendron is 
only grown extensively in the trade by nurserymen occupying ground 
exactly suited to their wants, such as a good dry peat, vigorous growth 
being the result. Plants are ordered for some place a long distance off, 
and to be planted in a soil not by any means so well suited to their wants 
•as that from which they came, and the distance being great the carriage 
is likely to become heavy ; to lessen the expense the ball of earth 
attached to each plant is reduced to the smallest size consistent with 
the plant’s living. Now, when we take into consideration the reduced 
size of the ball, and the indifferent soil it is removed to, we can hardly 
be surprised that considerable time is lost before the plants become 
established in their new home, and it is not unlikely that many will die 
under the ordeal. The remedy for this state of things, especially in the 
case of the common kinds, as Rhododendron ponticum, is to obtain a 
•quantity of seedlings with half a dozen or more full-sized leaves on each, 
and plant them out in a nursery bed, in ground resembling that which 
they are ultimately to occupy. After having been planted about two 
years they will have become bushy plants, and may be taken up with 
‘balls entire, as their removal to their ultimate quarters is not a serious 
affair when they are on the spot, and may be said to have become 
•naturalised to the soil and other conditions of the place. Those who 
rplant R. ponticum extensively for game cover or undergrowth, I strongly 
-recommend to adopt this plan. 
A further recommendation in favour of the foregoing method is, 
that in places where rabbits are very numerous, few, if any, plants 
‘escape their destructive propensities, and it has often been asserted that 
Rhododendron ponticum is proof against them, but those who make the 
assertion have perhaps never witnessed those prolific marauders in such 
numbers as are met with in some localities, or they would have seen 
that this plant, though suffering less than many, is not exempt. £ have 
often been led to think that where new plants from a distance are 
brought near rabbits they are the first to suffer, while those of home- 
growth escape. I suppose it is the novelty that accounts for the greater 
injury done ; but I do not mean to assert that the home-reared plants 
all escape, but they certainly suffer less than imported ones besides 
which, it very often happens that the latter have been growing more 
closely together than the others have, and a more delicate set of side 
branches may in some degree account for it. 
As I only intend to explain the main points in the cultivation Of the 
Rhododendron, it is not necessary to enter into details respecting the 
many varieties now grown. Persons who are doubtful of the soil or 
situation suiting them had better begin with the common ones first. 
The better-known Rhododendrons are likely to succeed in a soil and 
situation falling short of what may be called first-class ; but most of 
the varieties generally called “ hybrids,” including the bulk of the 
named kinds, may be grown in soil such as I have described, and as a 
class they afford perhaps as great a display of floral beauty as anything 
in the gardening world, not even excepting the gorgeous Indian Azalea 
and the bedding Pelargonium, while as evergreen shrubs they are 
exceeded by few in point of long-continued beauty. R. ponticum, at 
least, may be said to be one of the hardiest plants we have in its capacity 
of enduring our winters, and most of the hybrids are equally so. I 
hope therefore where opportunity offers that the cultivation of this 
plant will be extended, and that groups of it will be planted in woods 
and other places from which cattle are excluded. For lining the sides 
of drives or roads through similar places no plant can be more 
appropriate, for where the soil is suitable, and it has had a fair start, it 
generally maintains itself against most ordinary vegetation. Wastes 
devoted to the rearing of game might also have a few specimens of this 
plant, not scattered singly, but arranged in groups ; and if they were 
looked after for a year or two at starting they would take care of them¬ 
selves afterwards. It is in such wastes that they thrive best; a trial of 
it is there well worth making. The sites for this plant are so many that 
there are few persons having the means who might not find a situation 
in which to try it and have the pleasure of unexpectedly meeting with 
a clump of this plant, say at the end of May, when it is in 
flower.—R. J. B. 
SEASONABLE PLANT NOTES. 
Lilium candidum. —To increase the stock of these in pots lift 
bulbs from the open borders directly, they have flowered. Good sized 
bulbs may be potted singly in 6 and 7-inch pots, or four may be placed 
into 10-inch pots. Give liberal drainage, and employ a compost of 
good fibry loam three parts, one part of leaf mould, one-seventh decayed 
manure, and a liberal quantity of coarse sand. The old flower stems 
may be cut off close to the top of the bulbs. Press the soil moderately 
firm into the pots, and cover the bulbs with one inch of soil. They will 
do outside, but start better if they can be placed in cold frames, so that 
they may be protected from heavy rains until they commence rooting 
and growing again, which will be in a very short time. When this 
takes place they will be as well outside as in frames, only be careful to 
house them before the approach of frost. All who have not suitable 
bulbs can now obtain imported ones, which, if they are to do well the 
first season, should be potted directly they arrive. Considerable injury 
is done to this Lily if the bulbs are kept out of the soil for any 
length of time, as it is natural for it to commence growth at once after 
flowering. 
t Asters. —Plants from seed sown late may be lifted and placed in 
5-inch pots ; if five or six are placed together they are very effective for 
furnishing purposes late in the season. Quantities of late plants are 
being lifted and placed moderately close together in positions where they 
can be protected from heavy rains by frames. These afford a useful 
supply of flowers for cutting long after the general stock of outside 
plants have flowered. East Lothian Stocks from seed sown in April 
may also be lifted, but these must be placed singly in 6-inch pots. 
Arrange them in the shade for a few days until they become established, 
then grow them in an open sunny positior. 
Chrysanthemums. —Early flowering varieties are swelling their 
flower buds rapidly, and if a few are wanted in bloom place them inside 
in a cool airy house where they will enjoy full sunshine. These, as well 
as all varieties, must be carefully but literally watered ; weak stimulants 
may be freely given. The plants grown for the production of large 
blooms will now need constant attention until all the buds have been 
taken. As soon as they are formed remove the lateral growths that start 
from the axils of the leaves near their base ; these are generally three in 
number, and must be taken out with the point of a knife directly they 
can be seen. All laterals below them must also be removed as they show, 
so that the plant can concentrate all its strength on the production of 
the flower. Top-dress the plants with rich material directly the buds 
have been taken to keep the roots thoroughly active. Feed frequently, 
but do not apply stimulants in a strong state. Overfeeding does more 
harm than good by bringing the roots to a standstill, and flat instead of 
deep globular flowers are the result. Cuttings from the tops of plants 
that have been allowed to grow may still be rooted. Large-flowering 
kinds should be rooted singly in 60’s and be allowed to carry one bloom 
only, while small-flowering varieties may be inserted five or six together 
in 5-inch pots. These will soon root in cold frames if shaded from the 
stt l. Directly they are rooted place them in a sunny position. 
Tree Carnations. —Remove flower buds from the earliest plants as 
they appear, and encourage them to grow as strongly as possible. Water 
the plants carefully ; at the same time do not allow them to suffer 
by becoming dry at their roots. Weak stimulants may with advantage 
be given occasionally. For this purpose clear soot water, or liquid 
formed by steeping cow manure in a tank, will suit the plants well. 
Vigorous plants that are not required to flower before spring may be 
placed into 7-inch pots at once. Use for a compost good loam, sand, and 
one-seventh of decayed manure. If aphides infest the plants syringe 
with or dip them in a weak solution of tobacco water. Layer such 
varieties as Gloire de Nancy, Souvenir de la Malmaison, and others for 
flowering in 6-inch pots early next season. Plants from which the 
flowers were removed in spring and transferred into 8-inch pots may 
now be placed into 10-inch, in which they will be flowered next season. 
These, if well cared for, will be imposing plants when in flower for the 
conservatory, in fact any position.—B. 
Overcropped Fruit Trees. — Very heavily cropped trees, or 
any that have perfected a heavy weight of fruit, and which give signs 
of being overworked, will be much benefited by a good soaking of farm¬ 
yard liquid manure, or failing this a liberal sprinkling of guano, super¬ 
phosphate, sulphate of ammonia, or some other kind of artificial, ought 
to be washed in. Unless the trees are thus assisted, many of them, 
notably Plums and Pears, will have' been or will become so much 
exhausted as to be unable to perfect a crop next year, even if they 
flower freely. Reckless overcropping and starvation at the roots is most 
to blame for the inability of many trees to perfect a crop every season. 
Properly treated, nothing but the most unfavourable weather will pre¬ 
vent profitable crops being annually obtained.—W. M. 
