158 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ August in, 1888. 
All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. 
Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened un¬ 
avoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
Book (7. TP.).—Our answer to your question is in the negative. 
We have no such work on sale. 
Chrysanthemum leaves Baten (IF .7. J7).—The leaves appear 
to have been eaten by the small caterpillar that sometimes attacks the 
plants, and which is tlie reverse of conspicuous. If you examine with 
care the under sides of the leaves you will possibly be able to detect the 
culprits and secure them. 
Golden Elder (if. A. 71).—The leaves you enclose are well coloured 
•examples of this easily grown and effective hardy shrub. It can be bad 
from all nurserymen who grow trees for sale. The summer shoots are 
best cut closely back each autumn, as not only are the shrubs then kept 
•dwarf, but their colour is brighter than when pruning is not resorted to. 
Dressing' Vine Border (.7. 61).—If you have applied such heavy 
•dressings of manure for many years consecutively you cannot probably 
■do better than cover the border with lime to the depth of half an inch, 
•and point it in lightly with a fork, not disturbing the roots of the Vines. 
A light dusting of soot in spring, just making the border black, would 
mot burn the roots, but is not the border rich enough without it ? 
Chrysanthemum Leaves Eaten (7. 6.).—The shoot you have 
•sent has been punctured just below the terminal bud by a small 
weevil, but whether the pupa you send is one of the forms of the 
same insect we cannot determine, as it is in a transition state that is 
not peculiar to itself. We suspect also, indeed are practically certain, 
that the leaves have been eaten by 'earwigs or a small caterpillar. 
The plants should be carefully examined at night with the aid of a 
lamp. 
Gloriosa superba (7. BieUey .)—This is the correct name of the 
plant you have as Gloriosum superbum. It is pf climbing habit, with 
•orange coloured flowers, and well worth cultivating in a stove or warm 
•conservatory. It belongs to the Lily family. The genus Antigonon, of 
which the other plant is probably a species, is related to the Polygo- 
niums, the plants being ornamental climbers, which some have com¬ 
pared to Bougainvilleas in attractiveness. They also require stove 
treatment.- 
Planting- Liliums (.7 7. 7?.).—If we had a number of plants of 
Lilium auratum just ceasing flowering, and desired to establish them in 
a border, and also, like yourself, “wanting the pots,” we should not 
hesitate to turn the plants out at once into the border. We should 
make the soil good to a depth of from 18 inches to 2 feet, then plant 
the Liliums without materially disturbing the roots, 2 or 3 inches 
-deeper than they are in the pots. Cut off any seed pods that may have 
formed, and secure the st-ms to stakes, leaving the growths to ripen 
naturally. It is a mistake to withhold water immediately after flowerino- 
ceases, and thus drying off the plants prematurely. 
Grapes Scalded ( Andromeda ). — We have received the Grapes 
but not the letter of particulars Which you notify having: sent. See 
reply to “A. B. C.” last week. Your Grapes also show symptoms of 
mildew. The moment you see any on the foliage and berries dust them 
with sulphur. The long term of dull weather has made both the 
foliage and fruit of Vines tender, and unable to resist the sudden 
outburst of sun, except under the most judicious method of ventilation, 
and in some cases light shade, such as sprinkling the glass with white¬ 
wash or covering i+ with netting, has been necessary to prevent injury. 
You should have sent sooner. Short answers are compulsory to Wednes¬ 
day morning’s letters, the alternative being the delay of a week in the 
publication of replies. 
Herbaceous Plants (7. TF) —The term “herbaceous” has caused 
many disputes at flower shows, and though it is often employed in 
schedules without a very definite idea of its true signification, judges 
cannot be on safe ground if they -do not. construe the: term literally in 
the absence of any qualification or special rules. The wqrd is simply| 
defined in one of the most recent botanical dictionaries as meaning “ an 
annual'stem springing from a perennial root,” and .ip; thp majority Of 
cases there is little difficulty in deciding. whether a plant possesses this' 
character or not. Strictly speaking, annuals and biennials would not 
be admissible, and all perennials that do not lose their stems every year 
would have to be excluded ; on the other hand, the flowers of nearly all 
hardy bulbs could be shown in such a class. The conditions of a class 
ought certainly to be complied with, but too much care cannot be exer¬ 
cised in framing schedules to make the matter clear. The term “ hardy ” 
is really more indefinite than “ herbaceous,” for scores of plants might 
be hardy near the metropolis that could not be so described in your 
district, and in judging these classes the locality must be considered as 
well as the plants shown. 
Brugmansias (6. Oates'). —The “tree-like plants bearing large 
white trumpet-shaped flowers in Battersea Park are Brugmansias. 
They are wintered in greenhouses If you procure some keep them 
rather dry in winter, or so dry as not to allow the wood to shrivel, and 
prune in spring (March) to a few eyes of the old wood. Water carefully 
or moderately until the young shoots are an inch long, then repot, dis¬ 
rooting (at least remove most of the old soil), and return to the same size 
of pot. Water carefully, just keeping the soil moist, and syringe lightly 
overhead with water morning and evening. Slight shade is advan¬ 
tageous until the potting is recovered. The pot full of roots shift into 
one-fourth larger in diameter, watering moderately for a time until the 
roots are in the fresh soil, then copiously, and syringe twice daily, 
directing the water against the under side of the leaves, and the pot full 
of roots ; employ weak liquid manure. A light, airy position, and abun¬ 
dant waterings without making the soil sodden. Three parts light 
fibrous loam, half part each leaf soil and old dry cowdung, with efficient 
drainage. Cuttings of stubby shoots half ripe in sandy soil, in gentle 
heat under a handglass, shaded. 
Disputed Cup (.7 TF M. II ).—The case is so unusual and peculiar 
that we publish your statement, in case any of our readers learned in the 
law may be able and willing to give their opinion “ Copy of Sche¬ 
dule, Bawtry Flower Show, 1885.-A handsome silver cup will be given 
by Vicountess Galway for best arranged vase of flowers by any lady. 
The cup becomes the property of the successful exhibitor until the fol¬ 
lowing Show (August, 1880) when it must be returned to the Committee, 
and if again successful it becomes the lima fide property of the winner. 
Mrs. Egglestone the gardener’s wife of Firbeck Hall, won the plated 
claret jug it turned out to be. There was no Show in 1886 nor in 1887. 
A fresh committee was formed this summer, calling itself the Bawtry 
Horticultural Society, and have demanded the jug, Mrs. Egglestone 
does not care to compete again, and is not willing to give up the jug for 
nothing. If you will kindly give your opinion in next week’s 
‘ Journal ’ you will greatly oblige.” Our opinion is that the case is one 
for a solicitor, but if the new organisation is entirely distinct from the 
old, the former being dead, we suspect the present Committee will not 
find it easy to establish a claim for the cup ; but if the Committee is a 
continuation of the former one, there having been no dissolution of the 
old Society, we should think the holder of the cup less secure in its 
possession. 
Stocks for Roses (Puzzled). —You will perhaps remain puzzled 
till you settle the matter for yourself, for we suspect no stock can be 
pronounced the best for all Roses and all soils. The Rev. J. H. Pem¬ 
berton, a very successful Rose grower, has given the following as his 
opinion on stocks in the “ Rosarians’ Year Book”:—I. Manetti.—A 
strong growing stock, does well on all soils, makes good roots, but likes 
to assert itself. It suits some H.P.’s, but not those of the smooth- 
wooded Comtesse d’Oxford type, and Teas have a great dislike to it. It 
is easy to bud, takes readily, and makes' strong plants. The maiden 
blooms have a tendency to coarseness, and require great care in disbud¬ 
ding. As cut-backs, 1 do not like them. This indeed is their weakest 
point, for they lose heart when pruned either hard or long, and break 
very feebly. The Manetti seems well suited to secure new Roses, for it 
takes well, and produces much wood for securing buds next year. 
II. Seedling Briar.—A good stock for all Roses, does well on clay soils, 
and has no equal for permanent cut-back plants. It produces maiden 
blooms almost too late in the season for exhibition, although as cut-backs 
it is quite as early as any other stock. It does not bud well, the stocks 
not being always straight or regular in size, so that more care is required 
to suit the bud to the stock than in the case of the Manetti or Briar 
cutting. III. Briar cutting.—Suits all Roses, does well on clay soils,has 
no equal for producing good exhibition blooms on maiden plants, and, 
moreover, early blooms. It is not so good as the seedling Briar for per¬ 
manent plants, but in all other respects it is by far the best stock, 
being regular in growth and buds well. My opinion then is this : for 
permanent plants, grow seedling Briar. For maiden blooms, grow 
Briar cuttings. For plants to bud from, grow Manetti. If, however, I 
am requested to decide upon one stock in particular, I should give the 
preference to the Briar cutting. 
Potting and Managing Camellias (G. Weltan ).—Large shifts 
are not good. An inch larger all around than the ball ought to be the 
maximum, and half an inch the minimum,*and with the former allow¬ 
ance of root room the plants need not be potted of tener than every other 
year or third year if the plants grow freely, and every year when the 
smaller shift only is given. Potting is perhaps best done at the close 
of March, just when the flowering is past, and at the close of August. 
Both times arc good. They should have a compost of three parts light 
very fibrous loam, the top inch of a pasture taken off with its turf, and 
chopped up roughly, and one part sandy peat, with a free ad¬ 
mixture of sharp sand. The roots being very brittle the potting should 
be done with great care, not injuring the roots, but picking away the 
old sol! not occupied with live roots, arid ,f reeirig the surface of inoss. 
Drain the pots efficiently—about one-fifth the depth of the pots—and 
