222 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 6,189* 
two large tumid orange calli speckled with red occupying the disk 
between them, and each callus produced at the base into a short 
spreading lobule ; midlobe small, lilac, on a long slender stipes 
variable in form from trapeziform with rounded sides and an 
obtuse or acute tip, to very broadly obcordate. Column slender, 
incurved. Pollinia eight, with slender caudicles.” 
In this Journal for September 23rd, 1886, page 277, an illustra¬ 
tion was given of the Burford Lodge specimen under the name of 
S. Augustorum. 
REVIEW OF BOOK. 
Treatise on the Cultivation of the Pansy. By Alex. Lister. Paisley : 
Alexander Gardner, 1888. 
This rtodest production of fifty-six small pages contains a variety 
of interesting and useful information respecting the Pansy, and pos¬ 
sesses especial value as the work of a practical cultivator who has dis¬ 
tinguished himself in reference to these popular flowers. After an 
introductory note, Mr. Lister devotes chapters to “ Propagation from 
Seed,” “Propagation from Cuttings,” “Culture,” “Gathering and 
Preparing Blooms for Competition and Exhibition,” “ Mildew,” “ Pro¬ 
perties of Show Pansies ” and “ Fancy Pansies,” all of which are treated 
concisely and clearly. 
We quote the remarks on propagation from cuttings as seasonable 
information, and a good indication of the author’s method :—In order to 
perpetuate and increase any new and good variety of Pansy, there are 
only two ways—either to propagate from cuttings or by division of the 
root. The latter method is rather a clumsy way, and for many other 
reasons objectionable ; in some cases it may be resorted to, but to those 
who intend growing for competition cuttings are by far to be preferred. 
As I have recommended in propagating from seed, so also in propa¬ 
gating from cuttings—propagate only from the best and healthiest 
plants. Although cuttings can be struck from unhealthy plants, it will 
save a good deal of annoyance and disappointment if such plants are 
passed by when cuttings are being gathered. In selecting them choose 
short stumpy cuttings as near to the root as possible. Of course, when 
a variety is scarce one has to take all sorts of cuttings which are to be 
had, so as to make the most of the plant, but where such is not the case 
it is more satisfactory in every way to choose the best; they strike more 
easily, are more uniform in the propagating bed when put in, stand the 
winter better, grow more vigorously when planted out, and, as a matter 
of course, everything else being equal, yield better blooms. 
September is the best month in which to put in cuttings. They 
can be put in at any time during the season, but by putting them in 
before this time they will grow a good deal, so that by the time the 
season arrives for planting out they will be rather leggy. By propa¬ 
gating in September the cuttings have plenty of time to make as many 
roots as will be necessary for their healthy existence, and by the follow¬ 
ing March the plants will be short and stubby, and just be in the proper 
condition to begin the operations of the season with every prospect 
of success. 
The best place to put in Pansy cuttings and to preserve them through 
the winter is a cold frame. The best position is the one having a northerly 
exposure at the back of, but not too close to,. a wall, in. which to 
place the frame, as in the early months of the year when frosty weather 
prevails they are not so much exposed to the action of the sun’s rays, 
which is very injurious to all plants of such a soft texture as the Pansy. 
In preparing the ground, set apart from the frame, the soil should be 
dug at least spade deep, and having placed the frame upon'it, prepare 
as much soil—consisting of equal parts of good loam, leaf mould, 
rotten dung, and fine sand—as will cover the surface to the depth of 
6 inches. Having distributed and levelled this over the frame, take the 
same soil, adding to it another part of fine sand, and pass it through a 
half-inch riddle ; spread this again equally over the surface to a depth 
of 4 inches, and level it so that in no part of it shall the surface be more 
than 6 inches. from the glass when the sash is put on. Press the soil 
firmly with a board or the back of a spade, give it a watering with a 
rose, let it stand for an hour, after which the operation of dibbling in 
the cuttings may be proceeded with. Assuming that such cuttings as 
1 have indicated have been gathered—that is, nice short healthy cuttings 
having not less than four or five joints, with a good sharp knife take 
off the leaves from two of the joints, cutting clean and close to the 
stem without injuring it, then cut it clean across immediately below 
the lowest joint, when it is ready for dibbling in. 
After having prepared as many cuttings as mdy be thought necessary 
for the time being, and having labels prepared and ready on which to 
write the names of each variety, begin by making a line, at about 
2 inches from the left hand end of the frame, and having stuck in a 
label with the name of the variety to be put in first, a small dibber of 
about the thickness of one’s finger, and 6 or 7 inches in length is used. 
With this a hole is made, the cutting inserted and well firmed by again 
using the dibber at a little distance from the side of the cutting. Great 
care must be taken that the cutting be properly firmed, that it be equally 
pressed all over that part of the stem which is underground, and that 
it be not subjected to the operation of hanging, that is of firming the 
cutting at the neck or at the surface, and leaving it open and loose at 
the. root end. This is a point of the utmost importance, the neglect of 
which is often attended with disaster, of which I myself have had bitter 
experience. A few seasons ago I gathered and dressed my cuttings 
myself, and to one of my assistants, in whom, at the time, I had every 
confidence, I entrusted the dibbling of them in. As time went on, they 
did not seem to make any progress, I could not conceive what was the 
matter, and as I could not help myself, for I had put in every cutting 
I could gather, I had just to wait patiently and watch the result. As 
the spring came they began to drop oif altogether, so that out of about 
20,000 cuttings I was not able to lift more than 5000 plants. 1 his was 
a lesson which I am not soon likely to forget, for in addition to my own 
loss from a pecuniary point of view, I was compelled to disappoint 
many of my best customers. _ . 
Having finished the first row it will be noticed that a hole is left by 
the dibber alongside of each cutting, this is filled in by having close at 
hand a portion of dry fine sand, levelling it with the hand. The second 
row is then proceeded with 3 inches apart from the first. A very good 
plan, and one which I adopt, is to have a piece of board 5 inches broad 
and its length nearly the breadth of the frame. As each row is finished, 
to lay it on its fiat on a line, and close to the last row of cuttings put 
in, press slightly, then turn it on its edge and press it, so as to leave a. 
mark, which forms the line in which to insert the cuttings. By this 
means a nice evenly surface is left behind, the rows are sure to be at 
equal distances, and when the frame is full it gives the whole a neat 
finish. After giving a good watering with a fine rose, put on the sash, 
keep it closed and shaded from the sun, so that the cuttings may not 
be allowed to flag. In about ten days or a fortnight air may be. 
admitted to them by tilting up the sash, and shading may shortly be 
dispensed with altogether, as the more light and air they have the better,, 
and with the exception of hard frost the sash should never be closed 
upon them day nor night. By adopting this course the plants are not 
drawn up, neither are they weakened, and when hard weather does 
come they are more able to stand it than if they had been coddled too 
much. With the exception of keeping them clean, and of course pro¬ 
tecting them from severe frost by closing the sash and throwing a mat- 
over it at night, they will require very little attention during the winter 
months and on till the time of planting out. A fortnight or three weeks 
before this time arrives if the weather be favourable remove the sash 
entirely from the frame to harden them off, so that they may suffer as 
little as possible when transferred to the open ground. 
TUBEROUS BEGONIAS AT MOTE PARK GARDENS, 
MAIDSTONE. 
That the popularity of the Tuberous Begonia is rapidly spreading 
we have ample evidence on all sides. It is now rarely we enter the 
exhibition tent, whether local or otherwise, but we see admirably 
flowered specimens, while in almost every private establishment valuable, 
collections have been formed both for the flower garden and the con¬ 
servatory. As regards the latter, I do not remember ever seeing a more 
beautiful sight than that of a house full of them in the above gardens, 
and which I had very recently the pleasure of inspecting. Something 
like 500 grandly flowered plants were neatly arranged, the majority 
occupying stages erected one above the other, while the rest were placed 
on a long narrow one in the front of the house. I noticed the plants 
were somewhat rather closely arranged, so that on entering the house 
the eye immediately rested on a solid mass of bloom. Several of the 
individual flowers were marvellous for size, some of which measured 
close oa 7 inches in circumference, while the colour varied considerably, 
the most conspicuous being pure white, deep canary yellow, and apricot 
colour. I also observed that the pots a:e not extra large, which, con¬ 
sidering the admirable condition of the plants shows they are at the 
hands of an adept. Mr. Davies informed me the strain was principally 
that of Messrs. J. Yeitch k Sons.—H. M. 
THE STONE PINE. 
The Stone Pine may perhaps be a native of China, where it is- 
plentiful, as in the south of Europe it is seldom seen in situations far 
removed from human habitations. It occurs in the south of France, in 
Spain, in Greece, and in Barbary ; but it is most closely associated in 
our minds with Italy. The brilliant skies of the landscapes of Claude 
have their effect frequently heightened by the contrast with its heavy 
masses of dark foliage. Gilpin is most enthusiastic in its praise :— 
“ After the Cedar,” he says, “ the Stone Pine deserves our notice. 1 * 
is not indigenous to our soil, but, like the Cedar, it is in some degree 
naturalised ; though in England it is rarely more than a puny, half- 
formed resemblance of the Italian Pine. The soft clime of Italy alone 
gives birth to the true picturesque Pine. There it always suggests ideas 
of broken porticos, Ionic pillars, triumphal arches, fragments of old 
temples, and a variety of classic ruins, which in Italian landscape it 
commonly adorns. The Stone Pine promises little in its infancy in, 
point of picturesque beauty ; it does not, like most of the Fir species, 
give an early indication of its future form. In its youth it is dwarfish 
and round-headed, with a short stem, and has rather the shape of a full- 
grown bush than of an increasing tree. As it grows older it does not 
soon deposit its formal shape. It is long a bush, though somewhat more 
irregular, and with a longer stem ; but as it attains maturity its pic¬ 
turesque form increases fast. Its lengthening stem assumes commonly 
an easy sweep. It seldom, indeed, deviates much from a straight line ; 
but that gentle deviation is very graceful, and, above all other lines, 
difficult to imitate. If, accidentally, either the stem or any of the larger 
branches take a larger sweep than usual, that sweep seldom fails to be 
graceful. It is also among the beauties of the Stone Pine that, as the 
