September 6, 1888. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
227 
single Dahlias, was also set up by Mr. T. S. Ware of Hale Farm 
Nurseries, Tottenham, not for competition. There was good competition 
in the class for table decorations, Miss C. S. Orlebar of Wiilington 
Rectory, Beds, taking the first prize for a very effective but somewhat 
conspicuous display, consisting mainly of the scarlet Tacsonia, white 
flowers and Ferns ; Miss E. C. Pearson of The Hasells, Sandy, for second 
prize, having a tasteful display, in which Clematis vitalba and Ferns, 
lightened up with Dahlia Juarezi, were the chief features. Third, Miss 
M. A. Mould, Ickwell House, Biggleswade, who had also a light and 
pretty table. Natural dried flowers in nicely arranged cases were also 
exhibited by Mr. H. F. Southam of Lyndhurst, New Brighton, not for 
competition. 
Fruit. —In this department Mr. G-. Allis, gardener to Major Shuttle- 
worth, Old Warden Park, Biggleswade, well sustained his position as 
a successful competitor at this Exhibition, securing first honours for 
eight varieties, showing fine Buckland Sweetwater and Lady Downe’s 
Grapes, Melon, Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, Cherries, and Cox’s Orange 
Pippin Apples of 1887 growth in fine condition; Mr. R. Carter, gardener 
to Col. Duncombe, Waresley Park, Hunts, taking second place. For six 
varieties Mr. Redman was first, and Mr. C. Forbes, Trumpington, Cambs, 
second. For two bunches of Black Hamburgh Grapes Mr. F. Faint, 
Hertford, was first, and Mr. Forbes second. For two bunches of black 
Grapes, Black Hamburghs excluded, Mr. Forbes was first and Mr. Allis 
second. For two bunches of Muscats Mr. Carter was first and Mr. 
Forbes second; and for two bunches of white Grapes, Muscats excluded, 
Mr. Allis was first with very fine Buckland Sweetwater, and Mr. Carter 
second with Mrs. Pearson. For scarlet-fleshed Melon Mr. Allis was 
first, and for green-fleshed Mr. Claydon ; Mr. Dale, gardener to M. Foster, 
Esq., Sandy Place, taking first for a fine dish of Negro Largo Figs. 
Vegetables were shown in enormous quantity, and for the collection 
of twelve varieties there was a very strong and close competition, Mr. 
G. Robinson, gardener to F. Howard, Esq., Abbey Close, Bedford, 
securing first place, Mr. Faint coming second, and Mr. A. Burgess, The 
Gardens, Wimpole, Cambs, third. For six varieties in the amateurs’ 
class Mr. S. Rorby, Rennold, Beds, was to the fore, Mr. Allis second, and 
the Rev. W. E. Jackson, Stotfold, third. For twelve white kidney 
Potatoes Mr. R. Waller, gardener to Jas. Howard, Esq., Clapham Park', 
Beds, was first with a very fine dish of Vicar of Croxall, a promising 
looking variety. Mr. Waller was also first for twelve coloured kidney 
Potatoes. For twelve round whites Mr. Faint came first, Mr. Robinson 
leading in the class for twelve coloured rounds. Peas were fairly well 
shown for the season, the leading varieties being Duke of Albany, 
Evolution, and Ne Plus Ultra. For a collection of Potatoes Mr. F. 
Hazell, Cambridge, had a fine box ; Mr. G. Robinson, and Mr. W. Raynes, 
Arrington, Cambs, competing very closely for second and third places. 
A collection of eighteen promising seedlings were also shown by Mr. A. 
Harris of Woburn, chiefly from seed sown in 1886 and 1887 ; coloured 
sorts, however, were predominant. 
The silver medal offered by Messrs. W. Wood & Son for the best dish 
of fruit in the Show grown with their manure was awarded to Mr. 
W. Finch, Coventry, for three very fine specimens of a .Melon named 
Finch’s Seedling. 
WORK FQilTHE WEEK.. £ 
KL 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Earliest Forced .—Those that are to afford ripe Grapes in 
late April or early May should be pruned at once. It is not necessary 
to wait till all the leaves have fallen before pruning, only the wood 
must be brown and hard and the leaves turning yellow. The pruning 
will cause the Vines to rest more quickly and thoroughly. In pruning 
judgment is necessary, each Vine being pruned according to experience 
of its doings in the past. If it bear fruit freely when pruned to one 
or two buds, the bunches being as large as desired, and the Vine shows 
no tendency to weakness, then by all means keep to the system that is 
found to answer ; but if the Vines, or any of them, from continuous 
early forcing, full cropping, or other cause show a tendency to weakness, 
the fruit being fewer and smaller, one or both, leaving the shoots a bud 
or two longer than usual will mostly result in a more certain show of 
fruit in large bunches, and when larger bunches than ordinary are 
wanted buds that are fully developed on the stoutest parts must be 
selected for pruning to. By pruning to two buds the serviceable bunch 
of a pound or a little more may be had on healthy Vines, but in some 
cases this close pruning does not result in fruit of that size, and in 
I some instances none ; therefore the pruning must be regulated according 
to the condition of the Vines and the size of bunch that is required. 
There is an evil in pruning less closely than usual, which is apt to be 
overlooked—viz,, allowing the Vines to carry quite as many bunches of 
j 2 lbs. weight as they by the closer pruning did of bunches weighing 
a pound. 
Thoroughly cleanse the house and the Vines also. Any weakly 
Vines or those in an unsatisfactory state may be improved by removing 
the soil down to the roots and supplying fresh turfy loam with an 
admixture of a tenth of clay marl if the soil be light, or of old mortar 
rubbish if heavy, and a twentieth part of steamed crushed bones, lifting 
any roots available for the purpose, laying them out upon the fresli 
compost, and covering them not deeper than 3 or 4 inches. This is best 
done before the fall of the leaf. It is a mistake to allow Vines when at 
rest to become very dry at the roots ; comparative dryness is desirable,, 
yet great injury is caused by allowing the soil to become dust dry. The 
outside border should have a covering to protect the roots from the 
heavy autumn rains, which reduce the temperature considerably. Glass- 
lights are every way preferable, throwing off heavy rains and allowing 
the sun’s heat to penetrate the soil. Many, however, are obliged to be 
content with a covering of leaves, bracken, or litter after the weather- 
sets in cold, and though convinced that good Grapes can be produced! 
without material to throw off the wet, rains, and snow, yet reason and 
practice justify their employment wherever available for the exclusion! 
of moisture in undue proportion to the requirements of the Vines. 
Pot Vines. —It is highly prejudicial to allow these to become very 
dry at the roots when at rest, especially those for starting in November. 
They should have moisture to keep the roots fresh, those for that pur¬ 
pose— i.e., early fruiting, being now completely at rest, the wood 
thoroughly ripe, the laterals cut close home, and the canes shortened 
to about 6 feet, more or less according to the situation of the plump 
eyes. Whilst the cuts are dry dress them with styptic or “knotting” to 
prevent further trouble from bleeding. They should be kept in a .cool 
airy house. Place later Vines in pots outdoors to ripen or harden. The= 
south side of a wall or fence is suitable, the roots being protected from 
heavy rains, supplying sufficient water only to prevent the destruction! 
of the root fibres. 
Late Grapes .—The weather in most places has been extremely un¬ 
favourable for the ripening of late Grapes, the borders being saturated 
with moisture outside, resulting in an undue amount of lateral growth 
and the swelling of the berries to an unusual size. Keep the laterals 
well thinned, and thereby admit as much light as possible to insure the 
finishing of the crop, not by large reductions of foliage at one time, but 
by frequent pinchings. Where spare lights are at hand employ them to- 
throw off heavy rains and to secure greater warmth to the soil. This- 
will not only assist the present crop to ripen—to finish satisfactorily— 
but will help to secure the ripening of the wood. Fires will be neces¬ 
sary to maintain a night temperature of 70° to 75°, falling 5° or even lO" 
through the night, but getting up the temperature early in the morning 
to 70° or 75° with a little ventilation, at which keep through the day 
artificially with an advance to 80°, 85°, or even 90° from sun heat, 
affording Muscats and others that require a high temperature to finish 
off well a temperature of 80° to 85° by day under any circumstances, 
and 70° to 75° at night, accompanied with a free circulation of air day 
and night, as it will require sharp firing to finish off late Grapes before- 
the days are too short to admit of its continuance ; indeed, more may be 
done in the next few weeks than the remainder of the year. Those 
Grapes well advanced in ripening may have the atmospheric moisture 
gradually reduced ; those only colouring should,have a moderate amount 
of moisture to assist their swelling, not neglecting the inside borders, as 
may be necessary to insure an efficiency of moisture. 
Young Vines, especially those that have made a strong growth, are 
late in ripening, and must be assisted with fire heat, maintaining a. 
minimum of 65 u and maximum of 75° from fire heat, continuing it until 
the wood is ripe, accompanied with free top and front ventilation. The 
laterals must be gradually cut back, being careful, however, not to do it 
so as to cause the principal buds to start into growth. Do not allow the 
laterals on any account to interfere with the principal leaves, which 
must have direct light and air in order to the perfecting of the 
buds at their base. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Zonal Pelargoniums .— Cuttings of these are very soft and sappy, 
and more than ordinary pains must be taken or they will fail to strike. 
They ought to be at once taken off the old plants, duly cut to a joint 
and trimmed, and then laid in a dry frame or house till such time as 
the wounds are thoroughly dried. If this old fashioned plan is not, 
adopted, the least that can be done is to use rather dry soil for the pots 
and boxes, and give no water for a week or more. In any case only 
enough water should be given to prevent shrivelling, as if the soil about 
sappy late-struck cuttings is saturated with moisture at any time they 
are liable to “ damp off.” Whether they shall be struck and wintered! 
in pots or boxes must depend upon circumstances. Where large numbers 
are required, these being stored in well ventilated houses or dry heated 
pits, shallow boxes with plenty of drainage are preferable, especially for 
the green-foliaged varieties. Where, however, the plants have to be- 
wintered in rather damp pits, frames, or various makeshift positions, 
fewer will be lost if pots are used. These may be from 4-inch to 8-inchi 
in size, and should be well drained and firmly filled with gritty soil, the 
cuttings being dibbled in rather thickly. Pots are decidedly to be 
preferred for all the delicate bronze, silver, and golden variegated varie¬ 
ties. None should be left in the open in showery weather, but all ought 
to be set either in frames or pits, and plenty of light and air admitted 
to them. The aim should be to encourage a strong root action accom¬ 
panied with little or no top growth. 
Tuberous Begonias .—When cuttings of these can be procured they 
may be struck very much in the same manner as Pelargoniums. It is 
too late to insert them in the open ground or at the foot of sunny walls 
and frames ; pits or frames are the best positions for propagating 
them now. Placed in heat or closed frames they will nearly all damp 
off. Enough water should be given to prevent the soil becoming very 
dry or the cuttings flagging badly, but it ought to be gradually with- 
