September 13, 1888. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . 
253 
Peaches and Nectarines. —Earliest Forced House .—The leaves 
are off or nearly so. To induce as complete a rest as possible the ven¬ 
tilators should be kept open constantly, and if the lights be moveable 
they may be withdrawn for a time. This will prevent undue excitement 
of the buds and have an invigorating tendency, especially as the border 
will become thoroughly moistened by the autumn rains. If the roof 
lights have been removed as advised in former calendars, they should not 
be replaced, but if they cannot be removed see that there is no de¬ 
ficiency of water at the roots of the trees, for though the impression 
prevails that dryness at the roots accelerates ripening of the wood, it is 
fatal to the development of the buds. The border should never be 
allowed to become dry at any time, but a much lessened supply of water 
will suffice when at rest than during growth. When the leaves have 
fallen the trees may be finally pruned. Only the strong growths that 
have not the points well matured should be cut back. In all cases be 
careful to cut back to a wood bud, not being deceived by a triple bud, 
as these in some instances form triple fruit buds, notably Grosse 
Mignonne and Noblesse. Ordinary attention having been given to dis¬ 
budding, laying in no more wood than is necessary for the succeeding 
year’s fruiting and for the extension of the trees, and removing fruited 
and other unnecessary parts after the fruit was gathered, very little 
pruning will be required. Thoroughly cleanse the house, and if the 
foliage has been infested with red spider or insect pests, dress the trees 
at once with an insecticide, as red spider will secrete itself in the rough 
portion of the bark and in the woodwork, applying the dressing 
thoroughly but carefully with a brush. If the trees have been badly 
infested it may be necessary to repeat the application before they are 
secured to the trellis. Remove the old mulching or loose surface soil, 
and supply fresh loam, having an addition of bonemeal and wood ashes 
in equal proportions to the extent of about a twentieth part. Partial 
lifting of weakly trees will be necessary, which should be done before 
the leaves have fallen, and in the case of trees that do not ripen the 
wood well, the roots should be carefully lifted and relaid in fresh com¬ 
post near the surface, understanding that the drainage is perfect. 
Succession Forced Houses .—Trees that ripened their crops in June 
will soon be casting their leaves, and should be treated similarly to 
those in the earliest forced house. Those that ripened their crops in 
July and August will now have the buds plumped, and the wood being 
ripe the roof lights may if moveable be removed so soon as the leaves 
give indications of falling, or towards the close of the month. If the 
wood does not ripen well keep the house rather close by day when there 
is sun, and open the ventilators fully at night. Any weakly trees that 
do not plump the buds may be assisted with liquid manure. Do not 
neglect the trees from which the fruit has been recently gathered, 
thinning out growths not required for future bearing, removing the 
hearing wood of the current season, ventilating freely, watering inside 
borders as may be necessary, and occasionally syringing the trees. 
Late Houses .—Trees swelling their fruit will need the borders moist 
and mulched, and those with the roots in outside borders must not be 
neglected should dry weather prevail, and if carrying heavy crops weak 
liquid manure should be supplied. When all the fruit has been gathered 
remove the shoots that have carried the crop, and if the wood is not in a 
favourable condition as to ripening, gentle fire heat with a free circu¬ 
lation of air will be advisable; this more particularly applies to the 
late varieties. The midseason Peach trees will ripen the wood if the 
autumn be favourable, but if wet and cold they are benefited by gentle 
warmth and a free circulation of air. 
Melons. —Plants swelling their fruit will require considerable atten¬ 
tion to guard against canker. Free ventilation, a little air being ad¬ 
mitted constantly, with careful attention in watering and sprinkling, is 
necessary at this time of year, and affected parts should be rubbed quite 
dry with quicklime. Repeat the lime applications as may be necessary. 
Cracked fruits will need to be guarded against by the reduction of the 
moisture both at the roots and in the atmosphere. The temperature 
should be maintained at 70° to 75° by day artificially, which may fall to 
65° in the morning. The house will need damping morning and after¬ 
noon when the crops are swelling, but only on bright days must the 
syringe be employed over the foliage, and that early in the afternoon. 
Earth up the roots of the later plants directly the fruit commences 
swelling, and feed with liquid manure or waterings through surface 
mulchings of sweetened horse droppings. Plants in pits and frames 
must be sparingly watered, and when necessary afford it early, so as to 
have the foliage dry before nightfall. Renovate the linings to finish off 
the crops directly the heat is found to be waning, and employ a covering 
over the lights on cold nights. 
Cucumbers. —The temperature should be maintained at C5° minimum 
and 75° maximum from fire heat, with a rise of 10° to 15° from sun heat. 
Remove unhealthy leaves and old growths, stopping and training the 
others as may be necessary. Employ the syringe sparingly, only damp¬ 
ing the foliage on bright days so that it may become dry before night. 
Damping will require to be done in the morning and again in the 
evening. Pot seedlings as they become fit, and keep them near the glass 
to insure sturdy growth, pinching out the growing point of those required 
for covering low trellises at the second rough leaf ; others train with a 
single stem, securing to a small stick, rubbing off the laterals to the 
extent of stem required to reach the trellis. Be sparing with moisture 
to plants in pits and frames, maintaining the temperature above indi¬ 
cated by linings renovated as required, closing early, and employing a 
covering of mats over the glass on cold nights. 
Pines. —loung plants that have been liberally treated show at this 
season luxuriant growth, and as the influences inducing this are de¬ 
creasing both in force and duration, it will be necessary to take steps 
to prevent the growth becoming soft and attenuated. A drier atmu 
sphere should be maintained in order to consolidate the growth, em¬ 
ploying fire heat when unfavourable weather prevails. Syringe occa¬ 
sionally early in the afternoon on sunny days. When water at th r - 
roots is necessary, give a plentiful supply'of weak liquid manure at the 
same temperature as the bed. Keep the bottom heat steady between 
80° and 90°. Attend well to the ventilation, closing the house at a 
temperature of 80°, maintaining the night temperature at 65°. En¬ 
courage plants on which the fruit is swelling with heat and moisture, 
the night temperature ranging from 70° to 75°, and in the daytime from 
80° to 90°, closing at 85°. Plants for starting into fruit early in the 
ensuing year should be selected from those which were started last March, 
and be brought together about the end of the month, where they can Be 
rested for about six weeks. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Gardenias .—Cuttings for next year’s plants should be inserted 
singly in small pots at once. Select soft-growing shoots for this pur¬ 
pose, but not weak growths. If they are inserted in sandy soil and 
kept close and shaded they will not be long before they are rooted. 
If a few large plants are needed select some of the best of those that 
are now a year old, and place them into 8 or 9-inch pots. Pinch the 
shoots from time to time, and the foundation for large plants will 
be laid. With this object in view the grower must be prepared to 
forego the blooms that the plants would otherwise produce. With good 
treatment two-year-old plants should be 3 feet through them, and in 
condition for yielding a large quantity of bloom. If the earli st 
plants that have been in an intermediate temperature are pushed for¬ 
ward in brisk heat they will soon form flower buds. Give plants that 
have about completed their growth more air for a time, which is more 
than ever necessary in a season like this to ripen the wood, for this is 
the secret of good flowers and plenty of them. 
Cyperus distans .—For groups in rooms, halls, in fact any form of 
decoration, this is one of the most ornamental plants that can be grown. 
It can be propagated by division, but the easiest and quickest method is 
from seed. This plant seeds freely. The seeds are small and of a light 
brown appearance when ripe. It is only necessary to dry them for a 
few days before sowing. They germinate as freely and quickly as the 
seeds of ordinary grass. When the seedlings are large enough they 
should be pricked an inch apart in boxes and grown in heat until they 
show signs of crowding, then be placed singly in 3-inch pots. They 
must not be grown too warm or they will draw up weakly. If seed is 
sown now sturdy plants will be ready early in the year for 5-inch pots. 
They soon push growths from the base, and by July will produce five 
or six flower stems, when they are very effective. This plant is very 
liable to red spider, and therefore must not be grown too warm or stood 
upon a dry base. They need abundance of water. 
Braccenas .—All kinds, whether greenhouse or stove, that were raised 
from roots early in the year, should be placed without delay, if not 
already done, into 5-inch pots. The surface of the pots should be 
planted with Selaginella and Panicum variegatum intermixed. The 
latter should only be used for those that are retained in a warm house: 
until they are needed for use. It is necessary to use rooted cuttings of 
Panicum. When the moss is established the plants will be better in an 
intermediate than a stove temperature. 
Adiantums .—Plants that have been picked closely and kept cool for 
a few weeks should be placed into a temperature of 65°. They wilt 
quickly commence growth, and the temperature may then be gradually 
lowered to 60°, and will yield large quantities of fronds in the best of 
condition for cutting during the winter. As the fronds develope allow 
plenty of light to reach them, and give air daily to harden them. 
ADVICE ON BEES—A REVIEW. 
“ Thanks, Mr. Editor, for the advice given in your valuab’a 
journal. Since I abandoned the straw hive and the brimstone 
pit I have had a considerable quantity of honey.” 
The above may not be the exact words, but they certainly convey 
the meaning of many letters which appear in contemporary journals. 
More honey by abandoning the straw skep and brimstone pit ! 
Did ever anyone hear such nonsense ? The greatest takes of honey 
ever recorded were from straw hives ; and as for the brimstone pit,. 
