282 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September *7, 1888. 
that no tree be planted which at the time is affected with gum ; 
that it be uprooted if it show traces of gum on the stem or the main 
radiating branches near the stem ; and no tree be allowed to remain 
when the disease pervades the tree to a considerable extent. In 
cases of that description cure is hopeless ; therefore, our remarks 
on remedial measures are only intended to apply to trees affected 
which can have fresh parts originated from those that do not 
appear affected or derive sap through parts that are not diseased, as 
it is useless to seek other than mitigation if the disease has posses¬ 
sion of the tree at its base. 
Bearing in mind that the disease occurs most frequently and is 
greatly encouraged where the soil is too rich from over-manuring, 
too great width, depth, and freedom of rootage, and growth con¬ 
sequently over-luxuriant, we must seek a remedy in poorer soil, 
lifting, and root-pruning. It will not answer, however, to transfer 
a tree from a very rich soil io a very poor one at once, for the 
roots that are suited for the collection of food from a rich soil are 
not quickly adapted for the absorption of that from a very 
much less abundant pasturage. Restriction of the rooting area, 
especially of depth, and reducing the staple of the soil by removing 
some of it and admixing less fertile soil or chalk, is often of great 
service. It will in most instances suffice to add old mortar rubbish 
and road scrapings, and make the soil firm so as to induce stout, 
short-jointed, fruitful food. It gives time for thorough solidifica¬ 
tion, the supply of aliment being steady and not liable to influence 
by “ fits and starts ” to anything like the same extent by atmo¬ 
spheric conditions as that afforded by roots rioting in a loose, rich, 
deep soil out of all proportion in extent to the requirements of the 
tree's health, the power of evaporation and elaboration by the 
leaves, and assimilation in the buds and adjacent parts of the tree’s 
structure. Lifting and replanting in rectified staple of soil is the 
only means by which gumming when induced by over-luxuriance 
can be rectified and prevented in cases where the cultivator has 
command more or less of the climate by means of glass and 
artificial heat ; and where the weather controls the cultivator’s 
operations judicious lifting, root-pruning, and attention to soil 
influences will aid considerably in combat with the disease. 
Removing the infested parts, cutting them clean away below 
the infection into sound wood, and at once burning them, is the 
surest way to prevent contagion, delay in this respect being a 
wholesale means of spreading the disease. Removing large branches 
at pruning time should be avoided ; indeed summer pruning should 
take the place of winter pruning, gross growths being restrained by 
stopping, or removed in order to an equal distribution of the sap, 
and insure an equality of medium and thoroughly solidified growth 
throughout the tree, and then we may look for health and fruit¬ 
fulness. — G. Abbey. 
PLANTING DAFFODILS. 
There is perhaps no better month in the whole year for planting 
the majority of Daffodils and Narcissus than September, though some 
growers make a start even earlier. Such, however, are exceptions, 
and not the rule ; indeed private individuals have not the opportunity 
of procuring their bulbs much before this date, and all bulbs this year 
are exceptionally late in ripening. In the course of lifting some 
Daffodils during the present season I have witnessed several instances 
in which the new roots have been emitted while the foliage w'as still 
green, the result, no doubt, of the great rainfall. On the whole, this 
season, the ripening process has been irregular, and particularly was 
this so with the Tenby Daffodil, biflorus, ornatus, and the double 
Poet’s Narciss. Judgment and forethought have been necessary, 
and the more so in heavy loamy soils, all of which has tended to a 
later harvest in the bulb trade than has been known for many years. 
The great downpour of rain has not, however, interfered in the least 
with the quality of the bulbs, but has produced them decidedly 
superior to seasons where a scorching sun is upon them before 
they are scarcely out of flower ; the process of ripening has been 
more gradual, with the result that the bulbs, when lifted and pro¬ 
perly dried, have turned out excellent. With regard to lifting and 
storing them, I will only say that it is too late to attempt it ff not 
already done, as many are already rooting freely that have not been 
disturbed, therefore to lift them and lose all their new roots would? 
be a serious error. But now a few words as to planting them and 
their general cultivation. 
Regarded collectively, the majority of Daffodils, and particularly 
the grand Trumpet varieties, which belong to the magni-coronatar. 
group, delight in a dee^j rich fertile loam, such as fresh turf from 
a pasture. In this they delight, though it is not forthcoming in 
a great many instances, and they have therefore to be planted in 
something else. They are by no means a fastidious group, how¬ 
ever, as may be gleaned from the manner in w 7 hich some thrive in 
cottage gardens that have not been disturbed for years, where they 
have grown into large masses, too crowded, it may be, to flower 
with their w r onted freedom when under good cultivation ; for let 
it be borne in mind that while these cottage garden clumps appear 
to thrive, the number of flowers will be very small as compared 
with the number of bulbs. Like all other plants, Daffodils caimot 
grow to perfection when left alone. If one of these large clumps 
be examined, it is most likely there may be fifty or a hundred bulbs 
of all sizes heaped one on another, and probably not a dozen flower¬ 
ing bulbs in the whole. The case is quite different with Daffodils 
under cultivation, when single bulbs (I allude more particularly to- 
the old double Daffodil) will produce three, four, and even five 
flowers each ; thus illustrating, on the one hand, the plant in a- 
semi-wild condition, and on the other, the result of high-class culti¬ 
vation. I mention these extremes to show that Daffodils, even 
when planted in shrubberies or semi-wild places, are much benefited 
by periodical lifting and separating. 
The majority of Daffodils are very accommodating as to position,, 
and may be planted in the herbaceous border proper, or fringing a 
plantation of Rhododendrons ; on grassy slopes ; in shady groves - 
in the woodland or wild garden, or in fact any place out of doors 
•where a fair depth of good soil may be given them. Not the least- 
important feature in connection with many of them is their adapt¬ 
ability for forcing and for pot culture under glass. Only a few 
years ago the rich and varying tones of gold and yellow, which are 
now so much admired in these Daffodils in the early spring time, 
were considered vulgar, and as a gardener recently observed, in 
speaking of Daffodils as cut flowers, “We hardly dared to send 
them in the house with other cut flowers, and now they are all the 
rage.” And so it is. Fashion and tastes quickly change, for who- 
would have thought a few years ago that our common double^ 
Daffodil would ever become sufficiently popular and valuable that 
bouquets chiefly composed of them should figure prominently in 
leading West End florists’ windows ? Yet it is so, and extremely 
effective they are when arranged skilfully, and at the same time- 
they are very enduring provided they have not been forced too- 
hard. As pot plants in the conservatory or the drawing-room they 
are highly ornamental, and are being more eagerly sought after- 
year by year.. 
But no matter for whatever purpose they are required, whether 
it be for pots or for the open, no time should now be lost in obtain¬ 
ing supplies and having them planted at once. For pot culture the 
best plan to adopt is that which most growers employ for Hyacinths, 
Tulips, and the like, covering with a few inches of cocoa-nut fibre 
refuse or coal ashes. In this they will be safe for eight weeks or 
thereabouts, by which time abundance of roots will be formed, 
when they may with safety be introduced into gentle heat. The- 
only difference I would make with Daffodils for pot culture would 
be to bury them completely in planting, and not, as is the case with 
Hyacinths, leave the apex of the bulb above the surface. Daffodils 
when first introduced into heat need not occupy the stages ; they 
may be placed beneath them, provided they are not in contact with 
or even near the pipes, as that would mean a serious injury to their 
flowering. If left plunged in the ashes a longer time than I have 
stated some of the earlier one3 may have commenced growth, in 
which case they should be shaded from full light for a few days. 
In planting them in the open ground they are not so easily accom¬ 
modated, unless it be in instances where beds are devoted to them, 
when the planting is simple enough. 
In all gardens where light sandy loam abounds Daffodils are 
easily accommodated, and may be planted from 4 to 6 inches deep 
for the larger bulbs, such as Empress and Emperor, Golden Spur, 
and spurius, while 2 or 3 inches deep will be ample for such as the 
Hoop Petticoat section and those generally of small stature. For 
the more delicate, such as cernuus, cernuus plenus, albicans, odorus 
plenus, pallidus prascox, nobilis, scoticus, and moschatus, a maximum 
depth of 3 inches will be sufficient; in heavy, holding, and clayey 
soils further precautions will be necessary in the shape of abundance 
of sharp grit, burnt earth, and leaf soil to render the soil as open 
and light as possible. The stronger varieties do not object to heavy 
soils provided they are well drained, in which case they are bene¬ 
fited by abundance of sharp sandy grit, which is not so important 
on lighter soils. 
Another important point is that of manure for Daffodils. This 
