298 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
[ September 27,1888. 
of Roses considering the lateness of the season. For twenty four 
Roses, distinct, open, the Rev. J. H. Pemberton was first, Mr. 
Frank Cant second. For twelve Roses, distinct, amateurs, the Rev. 
J.H. Pemberton was first, and Mr. Wallis, Cornsland, Brentwood, 
was second. For six distinct, Mr. Naira of Romford was first, an 
equal second being awarded to Messrs. Charter and Atkinson of 
Brentwood. Fruit was exhibited in good condition by Mr. Ocock, 
Mr. F. Brown, and Mr. Tunbridge ; Mr. Ocock also showing a fine 
collection of vegetables. A great feature of the Show was the fine dis¬ 
play and keen competition in the cottagers’ classes, two large tents 
being well filled. As an example may be mentioned the class for collec¬ 
tion of vegetables, six varieties, for which three prizes were offered; 
here there were eleven competitors, all showing such good baskets that 
one regretted no one had taken the place of the late Countess Tasker, 
who was accustomed to award extra prizes when the competition was 
keen and the exhibits up to the mark. This was not the only class 
in which the competition was severe ; for instance, in that for a collec¬ 
tion of four sorts of vegetables there were ten competitors, for kidney 
Potatoes twenty-two, for twelve Onions twenty, for the best dish of 
boiled Potatoes twenty-four, and for nosegay of wild flowers by children 
twenty-nine competitors. These are only some of many other classes 
filled in like manner. The Society is to be congratulated upon the 
success of the Show, especially in the cottagers’ division, and it is hoped 
that some ladies and gentlemen of the neighbourhood, following the 
good example already mentioned, will place it in the power of the 
Committee to make extra awards should the exhibits deserve it, as they 
■certainly did last Thursday. 
HjO 
WORK /outhe WE EK,. O 
Im5 
&iiit 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Teaches and Nectarines. — Unsatisfactory Trees .—Where the 
trees cast their buds, do not set well, swell irregularly, stone badly, 
and finish their crops unsatisfactorily, then something is wrong. If the 
disaster is not attributable to errors in the treatment, something is 
amiss with the roots. Either they are in unsuitable material, it is too 
rich or loose, too deep or imperfectly drained. Trees not in a satisfac¬ 
tory condition, and it not being attributable to bad treatment, should 
as soon as the wood is mature be partially or wholly lifted. If this be 
done whilst the trees are in leaf the house should be shaded before 
commencing operations, and the old border made thoroughly moist. 
In removing the old soil commence at the point most distant, and work 
towards the trees, and when it has been cleared away the exposed roots 
should be drawn aside, damped, and covered with mars whilst the 
drainage is being attended to. This should consist of 9 to 12 inches 
thickness of rubble, largest at the bottom and smallest at the top, and 
if a covering be placed on of chalk the size of road mettle, or the rough 
cf old mortar rubbish not passing a sieve Avith a three-quarter inch 
mesh, it will make all secure and be a source of calcareous matter. If 
the site be wet it may be necessary to concrete the bottom below the 
drainage; in any case there must be drains beneath the drainage, the 
bottom sloping to carry off all water, and it must have proper fall and 
outlet. Strong loam is most suitable. If inclined to be light add a 
fourth of clay marl as fine as practicable; if very strong add a fourth of 
Toad scrapings, and in any case a tenth of chalk or old mortar rubbish 
Treed of laths or other pieces of wood. Crushed steamed bones may also 
be added to the extent of a twentieth part, and a similar proportion 
■of wood ashes, the whole well incorporated, and as put in the border 
rammed firmly, and the roots, after having any strong fibreless portions 
shortened with a knife, must be spread out evenly over the bed, cover¬ 
ing them with soil as they are laid out, and give a good watering. The 
Toots should, as far as practicable, be laid in the top foot of soil. The 
border need not be deeper than 24 inches, and in no case wider than the 
width or height of the trellis. The shading must remain on if the 
•weather be bright, and afford ventilation by the top lights only, syring¬ 
ing the foliage morning and afternoon until it is seen that the roots are 
working in the fresh compost, when the shading may be removed and 
the house opened. Trees so treated rarely cast their buds, the flowers 
set well; indeed the operation of lifting is very commendable in many 
ways, but is little practised. Trees in good health will not require 
lifting, but it is a good practice, especially for old trees, to remove some 
of the soil from the surface and supply fresh compost, as the roots will 
benefit by it, adding to their vigour and the size and quality 6f the fruit 
produced. 
Late Houses .—When the fruit has been gathered, as will be the 
case where there are midseason varieties, the next important object 
Is to secure the ripening of the wood. This can best be done by thinning 
unnecessary shoots in addition to those that have borne fruit, the 
latter being cut out to a successional shoot at the base, and the former 
being thinned wherever overcrowded. In the case of strong vigorous 
trees it may be necessary to accelerate the ripening of the wood by 
gentle fire heat, especially in dull weather, at the same time admitting 
air freely. Some of the late Peaches, as Desse Tardive, Wal burton 
Admirable, Sea Eagle, &c., in cold localities will require gentle fire heat 
to ripen them thoroughly. An occasional syringing will be necessary 
for trees from which the fruit has been gathered. 
Cucumbers. —Liberal treatment is essential to obtain and maintain 
a strong growth in the plants for autumn fruiting, as much of the after 
success depends on the foundation now laid. Remove all staminate 
flowers and tendrils, avoiding overcropping, and be careful not to allow 
the fruits to hang too long upon the plants. Gradually reduce the 
atmospheric moisture as the days shorten, and employ the syringe only 
on bright warm afternoons. Earth up the roots from time to time, 
pinching out the growing points of the shoots about every week or ten 
days, reserving as much foliage only as will admit of its exposure to 
light and growth to ensure a succession of fruit. The water supplied 
should be about the same temperature as the bed. 
The plants for winter fruiting must be in their places about the 
middle of October to ensure a good supply at Christmas. Keep them 
near the glass to ensure sturdy growth, not allowing them to become 
root-bound. See that the fermenting material is in due course of pre¬ 
paration if any is to be employed for bottom heat, and make certain of 
the heating apparatus being in thorough order. A bottom heat of 85° 
to 90° will be safe, but the latter temperature should not be exceeded ; 
if from hot-water pipes a bottom heat of 80° to 85° is sufficient. As 
there are many failures with winter Cucumbers from disease it will be 
advisable to take extra precautions in the way of thorough cleanliness 
and choice of soil. Turfy loam of a rather light nature is best, cut about 
3 inches thick with the turf, and this baked in an oven or over a fire, 
being careful not to bake it to a cinder, but only sufficiently to destroy 
fungoid and nematoid germs, a temperature of 212° being ample, but 
this will not prevent attacks of the plants by nematoids, which result 
of continuance by seed or otherwise of a diseased parent, as it is in¬ 
herent in the progeny. About a third of old mortar rubbish may be 
added, especially if there is a tendency in the loam to produce gumming in 
the plants and fruit, and this more particularly applies when the loam 
is of a very fibrous or peaty nature. If the loam be rather heavy add 
grit or road drift, and put it together rather firmly so as to induce a 
sturdy growth. Manure is best given at the surface as a mulch or in 
liquid form. 
Melons. —Cankered and cracked fruit are most frequent during 
cold and wet weather. The best practice is to keep both the soil and 
atmosphere dry, and for canker fresh slaked lime well rubbed into the 
affected parts. Cease syringing the foliage, and supply water at the 
roots to prevent flagging, but no more. Remove all superfluous growths. 
The late fruits are swelling and must be supported. Maintain a night 
temperature of 65°, and 70° to 75° by day artificially, closing the house 
early in the afternoon, keeping through the day at 80° to 90° from 
sun -heat. 
After this time cease applying water to plants in dung-heated pits and 
frames, a dry condition at the roots will accelerate the ripening process. 
Any fruits that have finished swelling, or plants that are dying, should 
be cut with a good portion of stem and placed in a dry warm house 
to ripen. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Flower Beds .—These have been more attractive during September 
than at any time previous, both the fine-foliaged and flowering plants 
improving surprisingly under the influence of dry weather and warmth. 
The tuberous Begonias have fairly eclipsed everything, and they promise 
to be very gay till frosts cut them down. In some instances, or where 
there are a few isolated beds of Begonias. Aster, Zinnias, Stocks, and 
other plants that are later than usual in flowering, it is advisable to pro¬ 
tect them in some way so as to prolong their beauty and usefulness. 
Carpet beds, when not forming part of a general arrangement—that is to 
say, when not mixed with various other beds, ought also to be protected 
as much as possible from heavy rains and during cold frosty nights. 
Close canvas stretched over the beds and securely fastened to stout 
short stakes forms the best covering, but frigi domo or cotton blinds, 
such as are used for covering outside wall trees, mats, or some other 
substitute, would also be better than no protection at all. In every case 
the coverings ought to be securely fastened well above the plants, or 
otherwise a storm of wind and rain will cause them to do much more 
harm than good to the flowers underneath. 
Late Propagation .—Owing to the rather late flowering of the Zonal 
Pelargoniums especially, many owners were averse to the requisite num¬ 
ber of cuttings being taken from them, thus disfiguring the beds some¬ 
what. As a consequence late propagation must be resorted to, or other¬ 
wise there will be a scarcity of strong plants next spring. Carefully 
treated, and cuttings not actually damaged by frosts, may be struck and 
safely wintered, these proving superior to the bulk of those struck in 
the spring. All should have most of the old leaves and scales trimmed 
off them, and after being well dried, be dibbled round the sides of 
4-inch or rather smaller pots. These to be set on shelves suspended in 
dry Peach houses, vineries, or in any dry light position, where a little 
fire heat is turned on in wet cold weather. No water should be given 
for several days, and at no time during the winter ought they to have 
more than enough to prevent shrivelling. Keep all Pelargonium cut¬ 
tings free of decaying leaves and on the dry side, it being undesirable 
to encourage growth at this time of year. Uninjured tops of young 
shoots of Heliotropes, Verbenas, Ageratums, Petunias, Marguerites, 
Iresines, Coleuses, and Alternantheras may yet be struck in gentle heat. 
They ought to be kept rather close, sufficient air being given every 
morning to well dry the frames in which they are set, or otherwise 
wholesale damping off will result. Young plants are, in most instances, 
