344 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 11, 1888. 
of getting rid of all these insect pests is to prevent them from laying. 
This can be accomplished by smearing the bark with train oil, softsoap, 
or other disagreeable substances ; though we fear that this, like a great 
many other preventives, is not, on the whole, so readily useful in large 
as in small orchards. 
FLOWER GARDEN NOTES. 
Zonal Pelargoniums. — Frosts have greatly crippled the more 
tender bedding plants, and in many instances the work of breaking up 
the beds has already commenced. Although enough cuttings apparently 
have been struck to meet all the requirements of the garden, many of these 
may be lost during the winter, and it is advisable in this case, and im¬ 
perative in others where an insufficiency of cuttings have been rooted, to 
lift and store a number of old plants. There are various makeshift ways 
of storing them, dry rooms, outhouses, and even cellars being utilised for 
the purpose. The surest method of wintering a sufficiency is to pack 
a number of plants closely together in either well drained boxes or in 
large pots, or they may be placed singly in small pots, the choicer 
varieties most needing this treatment. In any case the plants should 
be forked out of the ground, no attempt being made to preserve a ball 
of soil with the roots. Pick off the greater portion of the old leaves, 
shorten the roots considerably, and pack or pot firmly in any common 
soil. They may be stored in a dry light soil, the shelves or staging of an 
empty vinery answering well, while those in pots may be set on green¬ 
house or other shelves. Dry pits and frames, rooms, and outhouses may 
also be utilised for storing the plants. Give no water at first, and only 
sufficient subsequently to prevent shrivelling. A little frost such as 
benefits the fruit trees will not hurt them, but they must be protected 
from severe frosts. 
Tuberous Begonias. —These stood through a frost surprisingly 
well, only those in a low-lying position being crippled. Soon after 
frosts have disfigured them these Begonias ought to be carefully lifted 
with a small ball of soil and roots, and be packed closely in boxes of 
light and only slightly moist soil. They may be set in dry sheds or 
rooms, or in dry cool houses, pits, or frames, no water being given, and 
according as the tops die these must be removed, or the decay may 
spread to the tubers. Damp and frost are the greatest enemies to be 
feared, and much fire heat is injurious, causing premature growth. 
Autumn-struck cuttings and late-raised seedlings will all form small 
bulbs or tubers, and these should be gradually dried and kept cool and 
dry till the spring. 
Dahlias. —When the frost spoils these they ought soon to be cut 
down to within 8 inches of the ground, and the roots at once lifted. 
The greater portion of the soil should be cleared from the tubers, and 
the plants be then stored in a shed stems downwards to dry. Before 
the tubers shrivel they ought to be packed closely in a single layer in 
1 wxes and well covered with nearly dry soil, or they may be set on the 
floor or bench of a dry shed and covered with soil. All they require is 
to be kept cool, dry, and protected from severe frosts. The' commoner 
varieties, including the old Constance or White Cactus and the singles, 
generally have the most robust constitutions, and these may frequently 
be safely wintered in the open. If well established in a rather dry 
position all that is necessary is to cut them down to near the ground, 
and then well mound over with ashes or cocoa-nut fibre refuse. If a 
severe frost reaches the collar of a Dahlia this usually proves fatal, and 
for this reason either lifting or protecting must not long bedefeired 
after the top is crippled. 
Cannas. —The strong clumps of these ought to be lifted directly the 
foliage is spoilt by frost, and may be wintered as easily as Dahlias. 
Some of the soil of the beds should be left on the roots, and after being 
dried somewhat, all may be set closely together in a shed or cool cellar 
and lightly covered with nearly dry soil. Warm, moist, and darkened 
cellars are unsuitable, but answer admirably when plenty of light and 
air can be admitted in all but frosty weather. In warm localities where 
the subsoil is of a gravelly nature, or in dry positions near shrubberies, 
Cannas may be left undisturbed and protected with a mound of ashes ; 
but, as a rule, the safest course is to lift and store where frost or much 
damp cannot reach them. 
Salvia patens and Verbena venosa. —The former has done 
remarkably well this season, and in most years is very effective in the 
centre of large beds and also in mixed and ribbon borders. It is tube¬ 
rous-rooted, and ought to be cut down, carefully forked out of the 
ground, and after being dried somewhat, be closely packed in boxes of 
soil and kept either in a house where drip cannot reach the soil, or in 
E its or frames. Kept on the dry side, only enough water being given to 
eep the tubers plump, and protected from severe frosts, every plant 
will push up numerous cuttings next spring, and which may easily be 
struck in gentle heat. Verbena venosa is fairly showy, very serviceable, 
and easily wintered and propagated. It forms long fleshy roots, and the 
old stems with these attached should be forked out of the ground and 
closely packed in shallow boxes of common soil. Even loose roots may 
be similarly treated, and all will keep fresh and plump in a pit or frame. 
Every short piece of root with one or two points may be converted into 
.a plant next spring. 
Herbaceous Lobelias. —These also have been very beautiful, a 
mass in the centre of a bed being most effective. The old stems may be 
shortened down, the plants forked out of the ground, and either potted 
or packed in boxes of soil. Being wintered in a cool house, frame, or 
pit, very little water being given, all will push up numerous young 
growths or suckers, and a larger stock of plants obtained by division. 
Succulents.—A severe frost has caught a few of the choicest 
Sempervivums and Echeverias, but all have been lifted and stored for 
the winter. They require rather small pots or very little sandy soil to 
root in ; must be kept very dry, and any decaying portions be cut out as 
often as necessary. A damp position, drip, and frost, prove fatal to 
them, and they ought therefore to be wintered, where possible, on dry 
shelves or staging in slightly heated houses. The common Echeveria 
secunda glauca may be very closely packed together in frames and pro¬ 
tected from severe frosts, or in boxes in houses or frames. A large 
number may frequently be safely wintered packed facing outwards in a 
mound or bank of soil against a dry sheltered wall, being protected 
from snow and frosts with the aid of garden mats or other coverings. 
Sometimes they are bunched up like ropes of Onions and suspended in 
cool vineries or other houses, where they keep alive till it is safe to put 
them out in the spring.—VV. I. 
NOTES FROM GUNNERSBURY HOUSE. 
The well known gardens attached to the residence of H. J. Atkin¬ 
son, Esq., at Acton, have long been noted for good management in every 
department, no one hobby being allowed to interfere with the well-being 
of others. Health, luxuriance, and cleanliness are conspicuous through¬ 
out, and it would be difficult to find in so limited a space gardening, in 
its many forms, so thoroughly carried out as it is at the above named 
place. The well-stocked kitchen garden, vineries that maintain a con¬ 
stant supply of highly finished Grapes, pleasure grounds abounding in 
choice and beautiful shrubs and delightful views, have frequently been 
fully described in the Journal, while the fine specimens of stove and green¬ 
house plants, which a few years since were exhibited by Mr. Hudson, 
will be remembered by many as the victors in numerous hard won 
fights. Large specimens are not grown now, but a good stock of Palms, 
Dracaenas, Crotons, &c., of a suitable size for decorative purposes is still 
kept. The work of propagation going on continuously, and the ex¬ 
cellent condition of the plants, unmistakeably indicate that they are in 
the hands of one who thoroughly understands their culture from the 
cutting to the specimen plant. My object in penning these brief notes 
is to draw particular attention to the exceptionally fine Chrysan¬ 
themums I had the honour of inspecting early in September, the 
majority of the plants being grown on the large-bloom system, three 
shoots to each plant, and although not grown for exhibition, many an 
intending competitor at the Chrysanthemum shows would contemplate 
the coming struggle with equanimity if he possessed such plants as 
these. They are tall, vigorous, and clothed to the rim of the pots with 
deep green leathery foliage, the wood being wonderfully hard and well 
ripened for such a season as we have passed through. This satisfactory 
state of ripeness in the wood is, I believe, due in a great measure to the 
fact that the plants are in smaller pots than they are usually met with; 
indeed it is quite a marvel how such large and vigorous plants could be 
kept in so healthy a state in the limited amount of root room allowed. 
The largest pots are only 9 inches in diameter, and yet I did not notice 
a single unhealthy leaf in the whole collection, which was one that any 
Chrysanthemum grower might be justly proud of.—H. Dunkin. 
LOBELIA PUMILA MAGNIFICA. 
This is one of the best Lobelias that I am acquainted with. It is a 
good grower, of compact habit, and produces flowers of a rich blue in 
great profusion. Therefore it should have a place in every garden where 
massesof distinct colours areemployed. But, owingto the plant beingsuch 
a profuse flowerer difficulty is experienced in procuring the necessary 
complement of cuttings in the autumn, and on this account a dozen or 
two plants should be taken up at once with a little soil adhering to the 
roots. Shorten the latter back to the soil and cut the flowering shoots 
down to within a couple of inches of their bases before the plants are 
potted. Employ 4£-inch pots and a mixture or four parts light sandy 
loam and one of sweet leaf mould, the soil being made moderately firm 
about the roots. Place the plants in a frame or pit out of the reach of frost 
or excessive damp, water through a rose to settle the soil, and keep the 
plants close for a week or ten days until the roots have pushed into the 
fresh soil, when plenty of fresh air should be admitted on all favourable 
occasions. Keep them also on the dry side at the roots to prevent the 
plants starting into growth before being required for propagation in the 
spring. They should then be put in heat near to the glass to induce 
the plants making a sturdy growth, from which to strike sufficient 
plants for furnishing early in summer the number of beds allotted to it 
in the flower garden. The plants when put into heat should be kept 
moist at the roots.—II. W. 
THE PROGRESS OF BOTANY. 
(Continued f rom page 309.') 
THE DARWINIAN THEORY. 
This leads me to touch on the great theory which we owe to Mr. 
Darwin. That theory, I need hardly say, was not merely a theory of 
descent. This had suggested itself to naturalists in the way I have in¬ 
dicated long before. What Mr. Darwin did was to show how by per¬ 
fectly natural causes the separation of living organisms into races which 
at once resemble and yet differ from one another so profoundly came 
