346 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October II, I8S8. 
may fairly assume, were 4000 years ago as accurately adjusted to the 
conditions in which they then existed as the fact of their persistence in 
the country shows that they must be now. Any deviation from the 
type that existed then would either therefore be disadvantageous or 
indifferent. In the former case it would be speedily eliminated, in the 
latter it would be swamped by cross-breeding. But we know that if 
seeds of these plants were introduced into our gardens we should soon 
detect varieties amongst their progeny. Long observation upon plants 
under cultivation has always disposed me to think that a change of ex¬ 
ternal conditions actually stimulated variation, and so gave natural 
selection wider play and a better chance- of re-establishing the adapta¬ 
tion of the organism to them. Weismann explains the remarkable fact 
that organisms may for thousands of years reproduce themselves un¬ 
changed by the principle of the persistence of the germ-plasm. Yet it 
seems hard to believe that the germ-plasm, while enshrined in the in¬ 
dividual whose race it is to perpetuate, and nourished at its expense, 
can be wholly indifferent to all its fortunes. It may be so, but in that 
case it would be very unlike other living elements of organised beings. 
I am bound, however, to confess that I am not wholly satisfied with 
the data for the discussion of this question which practical horticulture 
supplies. That the contents of our gardens do exhibit the results of 
variation in a most astonishing degree no one will dispute. But for 
scientific purposes any exact account of the treatment under which 
these variations have occurred is unfortunately usually wanting/ A great 
deal of the most striking variation is undoubtedly due to wide crossing, 
and these cases must, of course, be eliminated when the object is to test 
the independent variation of the germ-plasm. Hoffmann, whose ex¬ 
periments I have already referred to, doubts whether plants do as a 
matter of fact vary more under cultivation than in their native home 
and under natural conditions. It would be very interesting if this could 
be tested by the concerted efforts of two cultivators, say, for example, 
in Egypt and in England. Let some annual plant be selected, native 
.of the former country, and let its seed be transmitted to the latter. 
Then let each cultivator select any variations that arise in regard to some 
given character; set to work, in fact, exactly as any gardener -would 
who wanted to “ improve ” the plant, but on a preconcerted plan. A 
comparison of the success which each obtained would be a measure of 
the effect of the change of the 'evironment on variability. If it proved 
that, as Hoffmann supposed, the change of conditions did not affect 
what we may call the rate of variation, then, as Mr. Darwin remarks in 
writing to Prof. Semper, “the astonishing variations of almost all culti¬ 
vated plants must be due to selection and breeding from the varying 
individuals. “ This idea,” he continues, “ crossed my mind many years 
.ago, but I was afraid to publish it, as I thought that people would say, 
‘ How he does exaggerate the importance of selection.’ ” From an in¬ 
dependent consideration of the subject I also fiud my mind somewhat 
shaken about it. Yet I feel disposed to say with Mr. Darwin, “ I still 
.must believe that changed conditions give the impulse to variability, but 
that they act in most cases in a very indirect manner.” 
(To be continued.) 
L 
HABDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Taking Stock.—Now is the best time to take stock of all the fruit 
trees and bushes growing in various positions in order to determine 
which are worth keeping and which are not. In some instances the 
warieties do not merit the space given up to them, in others the trees 
•are become unprofitable, and might well be replaced by young ones, 
while there are numerous cases where there is much valuable wall 
rspace not sufficiently utilised for fruit culture. It is not always wise to 
uproot large trees, of inferior varieties of Apples and Pears especially, 
the better plan being to regraft these with others that are worthy of 
culture. Nor should any unhealthy or unfruitful trees of good varieties 
be too hastily destroyed, as it is quite possible to restore such to good 
■health and free bearing order long before young trees could be grown 
into a profitable size. As a rule Apples and Pears remain in good health 
much longer than either Cherries, Plums, Peaches, and Apricots, and 
although these may be preserved in a profitable state for many years 
if liberally treated at the roots, it is yet advisable to have a few younger 
trees coming on to take the place of those no longer worthy of preserva¬ 
tion. Especially is this necessary in the case of Peaches, Nectarines, 
And Apricots, any of these being liable to die off rapidly, and that, too, 
in spite of various remedial measures resorted to. Gooseberries and 
Currants are also liable to lose large limbs, and young bushes ought to 
be in readiness to take their place. Raspberries, although not much 
addicted to dying off suddenly, will not go on doing well in one position 
for many years, and there are numerous gardens where inferior varieties 
are still tolerated. All the walls and fruit quarters should, therefore, be 
looked over and a final decision arrived at. 
Preparing for Planting. —Advantage should be taken of a fine 
dry time to prepare the sites for fresh trees, whether these be against 
walls or in the open. Not only can this be well done at this early date, 
but an early preparation allows better time for the deeply moved ground 
to settle before the time for moving the trees arrives. Not unfrequently 
the trees are prepared only a short time before the trees are planted, 
and unless allowance is made for the sure settlement of the soil the 
“collars” are bound to sink below the ordinary level of the garden or 
border, and this leads to excessively deep root action and a marked 
deterioration in the health of the trees. When the sites are prepared 
early, trees brought from the nurseries may, weather permitting, be 
planted directly they are received ; this, seeing that in many instances 
they have already been long out of the soil, being another important 
consideration. Where whole quarters are to be newly planted the 
preparation of these should consist of bastard trenching or double 
digging, first, however, seeing that the drainage is in good working order, 
as fruit trees will not long thrive on badly draintd land. It is not 
advisable to mix much rich manure with either the bottom or top spits. 
The trees will usually grow vigorously on fresh land, and manure added 
may cause gross unfruitful growth, while if deeply buried it inevitably 
encourages undesirable deep root action. Trees do exceptionally well 
in fresh loamy soils, or any in which plenty of turfy loam has been 
added, and this is far preferable to planting in heavily manured land. 
When manure is most needed is after the trees have exhausted much of 
the natural fertility of the soil and have arrived at a good free bearing 
condition. Given freely then and they will long remain in a profitable 
state. Trees planted in holes only a trifle wider than the spread of 
roots seldom grow away very satisfactorily, and where solitary trees are 
set out holes not less than 4 feet in diameter should be prepared for 
them. 
Refilling Old Sites. —It is simply a waste of time and money to 
replant orchard ground that for many years has been occupied by fruit 
trees. Better by far break up a fresh piece of ground, as on this the 
trees, if properly attended to, rarely fail to do well, whereas any 
planted on soil already exhausted of all the food fruit trees most need, 
will seldom attain a serviceable size. The case is somewhat different in 
the enclosed kitchen and fruit gardens, where manure is used plenti¬ 
fully for the various crops of vegetables, in addition, perhaps, to liberal 
mulchings of manure given to the fruit trees. In very many instances, 
however, the wall borders in which trees have long been established are 
much impoverished below the surface and against the foot of the walls, 
and much of this poor soil ought to be changed for the best loamy soil 
procurable before young trees are put out in the place of worn-out old 
ones. The least that can be done is substitute fresh garden soil for that 
which has long supported fruit trees, and a liberal addition of ground 
bones is most beneficial in all cases. In low lying or badly drained 
positions each site for all choice fruit trees may well have a separate 
small pipe drain leading from it to the nearest main drain, one of which 
ought to be found under most of the principal walks near the walls. 
Such drains ought to be nearly or quite 3 feet deep, as, should they be 
placed much nearer the surface, the drainage may be too perfect, more 
moisture being sucked from the soil than is good for the trees to lose. 
A quantity of loose stones placed in the bottom of the holes will not 
long keep the roots from finding their way into cold clayey soil under¬ 
neath, though they may assist in the drainage. On all heavy soils 
r ,ther high planting should b'e practised, and this completed with good 
surface culture will serve to keep the roots nearer the surface. 
The Fruit Room. —Every season the fruit room ought to have a 
thorough overhauling and a good cleansing given. The walls ought to 
be whitewashed and all the woodwork scrubbed down, the aim being 
to make the room as sweet as possible. Apples, and in a lesser degree 
Pears also, are very porous, and the flavour is easily tainted in a musty 
atmosphere or from contact with anything scented in any way. Nothing 
in the shape of hay or stravv should be permitted in the fruit room, and 
the fruit ought either to be stored on the clean boards or on fresh 
“ kitchen ” paper. 
FRUIT FORGING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Planting Young Trees .—The border 
must be efficiently drained, the base having an incline to the drain, 
which should be formed of 3'or 4 inch tiles having proper fall and outlet. 
It is not desirable to concrete the base unless it be wet or when the sub¬ 
soil is loose and likely to encourage the roots to enter it. Some ordinary 
gravel mixed with a third of lime formed into a mortar-like consistence 
and put in 3 or 4 inches thick, will form a suitable base. The surface 
of the concrete must incline to the drain, which should be laid in a 
hollow over the concrete. Use clean drainage —viz., a layer of brickbats 
not much less than half-brick size, another of smaller, and so on to 
the top layer of the size of ordinary broken road metal, and if covered 
with a layer of the siftings of old mortar rubbish about 3 inches thick, 
the drainage altogether being 12 inches thick, it will be a most satis¬ 
factory and substantial affair. The old mortar rubbish should be free 
from pieces of wood, using that remaining or not passing through a 
three-quarter-inch sieve. Good loam is the only suitable soil, the top 
? or 4 ’'aches of a pasture with its turf. Add if inclined to be light a 
