October 11, 1888. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
347 
fourth of clay marl finely divided, if very strong add a fourth of road 
scrapings. A small quantity (a twentieth) of crushed steamed bones 
may be added, and a similar proportion of wood ashes, chalk or old 
mortar rubbish freed of laths or other pieces of wood, to the extent of 
not less than a tenth. Ordinary loam will answer, but we prefer the 
turfy. In the case of ordinary garden soil, add the other ingredients 
according to the nature of the soil, and a fifth part of fresh stable manure 
free, as far as possible, of the straw; the materials to be well incor¬ 
porated and in a fairly dry state, put together firmly, 24 inches depth 
is ample, and for ordinary sized trees 3 feet wide to begin with, or for 
tree two or three years trained to walls 4 feet 6 inches. Plant rather 
high, as the soil will settle and the surface dressings will raise the soil 
correspondingly. The earlier the trees are planted after the leaves show 
indications of falling the better, as fresh rootlets are produced at once. 
Supply water after planting, allow it to soak in, and when dry enough 
firm well and mulch with 2 or 3 inches thickness of short rather fresh 
manure. For early forcing confine the roots to inside, but in succes- 
sional and late houses these roots may have to run of inside and outside 
borders. 
For very early forcing Alexander Peach may be employed. There is 
no companion Nectarine, Advance is the earliest. For early houses 
—Hale’s Early, Early G-rosse Mignonne, A Bee, and Dr. Hogg, with 
Lord Napier Nectarine. Second early—Koval George, or its better form 
Stirling Castle, Grosse Mignonne, or Belle Bauce, and Alexandra 
(Noblesse), with Elruge, Violette Hative, and Rivers’ Orange Nectarines. 
Succession houses.—The preceding are eligible with Bellegarde and 
Barrington Peaches, Dymond being excellent; and in addition to the 
Nectarines named above, White and Pineapple. Late houses—Barring¬ 
ton, Princess of Wales, Walburton Admirable, and Sea Eagle Peaches, 
with Pineapple and Victoria Nectarines. 
Earliest House. — The trees are now leafless. If any pruning be 
necessary attend to it ; but due regard having been paid to disbudding, 
preventing overcrowding, and removing the useless growths after the 
fruits were gathered very little will now be necessary. The trees should 
be dressed with an insecticide before tying them to the trellis. The 
borders may be pointed, the loose surface soil removed, and fresh loam 
added, with 20 per cent, of steamed bonemeal and a similar per-centage 
of wood ashes. The roof lights may remain off until November, when 
it will be necessary to replace them to ward off heavy rains and probably 
snow, air being freely admitted except during frost. Allow the outside 
borders of early houses to have the benefit of whatever rains may fall in 
October, afterwards protect with leaves and litter over it, with shutters 
or tarpaulin later on to throw off the wet. 
Trees Started at the New Year. —The foliage is falling, but it comes 
off tardily, an indication that the wood is not so well solidified and 
matured as obtains with forced trees generally, yet the buds are plump 
and there is nothing to fear in respect of immaturity. Clear away the 
leaves as they fall, and when all are down lose no time in having the 
house thoroughly cleaned, the trees pruned and dressed and tied to the 
trellis, top-dressing the border as before advised unless the trees have 
been lifted or root-pruned this season, when it will not, of course, be 
necessary. 
Succession Houses. —The foliage in these is quite green. The growths, 
however, are tolerably firm, and the buds appearing well in the axils of 
the leaves. The frosts have not affected the foliage (though 7° were re¬ 
gistered on the 3rd inst.), and there is no indication of the foliage ripen¬ 
ing. In the case of young trees it will be advisable, particularly where 
there is a tendency to late growth, to form a trench at a distance from 
the stem equal to about one-third the height of the trees, detaching all 
the roots, leaving the trench open for ten days or a fortnight, when it 
may be filled firmly. This will check the tendency to a late growth, 
and contribute to the maturity of the wood and buds. Care must be 
taken not to allow the soil to become dry in the part undisturbed, and 
detaching the roots will encourage the production of fresh rootlets, 
which will decidedly benefit the setting and stoning of the fruit in the 
ensuing season. 
Late Houses .—The wood which has borne fruit may be cut out and 
thinned where too crowded. The house may be kept rather close by day 
when there is sun, throwing the house open at night, which will assist 
the wood to ripen, and concentrate the tree’s energies on maturing the 
buds through the increased power of elaboration and assimilation by 
day, with rest at night. With a gentle warmth in the pipes in dull 
weather the ripening process will be still further enhanced, but it must 
be accompanied by a free circulation of air. 
Late Unheated Houses.—In these structures a great change has 
been effected during last month, the fruit ripening very well, indeed 
it has been the best of the season. Bellegarde and Barrington have 
been excellent. We gathered the last of Barrington the same day 
(October 3rd) as the first fruit of Sea Eagle were gathered. The last is 
a grand fruit, pale straw colour, with a pink cheek, the flesh dissolving, 
with a rich racy flavour. It also fruits freely, and is remarkably free 
from disease, possessing an excellent constitution. There is nothing 
like it in Peaches except Early Rivers, which is one of the richest 
flavoured of the very early Peaches, and both were raised from the 
Early Silver Peach. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Allamandas. —Withhold water from the earliest plants until they 
flag, for it is only by so doing that they can be brought to rest in moist 
heated structures. This can be done without allowing the wood to 
shrivel. Partially prune the plants, and when growth has been 
thoroughly brought to a standstill the plants will quickly go to rest in 
a temperature of 55° provided the soil is kept rather dry at their roots 
until they have cast the whole of their foliage, when they may be kept 
perfectly dry. Supply weak stimulants to plants that are expected to 
flower for the next two or three months. To insure a continuous supply 
of flowers the plants must be kept growing, and to accomplish this 
the temperature should range from (10° to 65° at night. 
Bougainvilleas. —Plants that have completed their growth should be 
induced to rest by placing them in a temperature of 55° where a drier- 
atmosphere can be maintained. Gradually diminish the supply of 
water until their leaves have fallen, when they may be kept perfectly 
dry. Plants that have not yet completed their growth may have all 
small shoots removed, so that light and air can penetrate to ripen the 
main growths. This is essential if a good supply of flowers another 
year is to be obtained. 
Clerodendrons. —Cuttings of C. fragrans that have recently been 
rooted may be placed into 4-inch pots, and if grown close to the glass 
and fully exposed to the sun they will produce serviceable heads of 
bloom. A few plants of C. fallax may be placed into the stove, and if 
they have been properly grown they will not be long before they are in 
full flower. Supply the whole of these plants with weak stimulants, 
but keep the remainder of the stock in a night temperature of 55° to 
60° ; they will more slowly forward in this temperature and form a 
capital succession. 
Tydceas. —Place these in a light position as close to the glass as 
possible. This is important with late flowering varieties, or they will 
become tall. The early flowering varieties may be placed into the stove 
or an intermediate structure. Supply water freely to their roots, 
but be careful that it does not fall upon their foliage. 
Gesneras. —Weak stimulants will benefit plants that have filled their 
pots with roots, and be careful that they do not suffer by an insufficient 
supply of water at their roots. They should occupy a shelf if possible 
where a moderate amount of humidity is maintained in the atmosphere. 
Water must not be allowed to settle upon their foliage, or it will soon 
present a rusty appearance. To do these well they must not be kept in 
a lower temperature than 60° to 65° at night until they are in full 
bloom. 
Caladiums. —Be careful not to dry them suddenly or their tubers 
will perish. Keep them in the stove until the whole of their foliage 
has died, when they may be kept perfectly dry. Once they reach this 
stage they will be safe in a temperature of 50°, provided the soil is kept 
perfectly dry. C. argyrites should still be encouraged to grow, for its 
beautiful leaves are most ornamental when associated with cut flowers. 
We have succeeded best with this variety when no attempt has been 
made to dry it off. 
Gloxinias and Achimenes. —The earliest of these have gone to rest, 
and may be removed as opportunities offer from the old soil in which 
they were grown to be stored in pans or boxes until they are wanted 
again. They will be safe in any cool place from which frost isexcluded, 
provided the sand or soil amongst which they are laid is kept perfectly 
dry. Do not prematurely dry off later plants, but water them judiciously 
until their foliage and stems show signs of decay, when water may be 
gradually withheld. 
Sphcerogyne latifolia. —This and Cyanopliyllum magnificum when 
well grown are conspicuous plants in the stove. Now that it has been 
necessary to diminish the supply of moisture in this structure, a sharp 
look out must be kept for thrips, which if allowed to become established 
upon the foliage of these will soon ruin them. Tobacco water applied 
with a sponge is the best means of destroying this pest if it appears. 
NOTES ON BEES. 
BAD SEASONS. 
“ It may be safely asserted that there is scarcely a bee-keeper 
to be found who can recall such a disastrous honey season as the 
one now drawing to a close,” was stated by a contemporary recently,, 
but this is very inaccurate. Well managed bees, even in this- 
disastrous year, either have or will give a surplus, and similarly 
managed stocks will not require any feeding. But it is very 
different with the unsuitable hives recommended by some writers 
and authorities, though surplus honey might have been obtained 
had proper hives and management been employed. I cannot recall 
every bad season that has occurred in my life, but I remember 
perfectly between 1835 and 1840 that the bees had to be fed 
during the whole summer. So great was the mortality amongst 
bees at that time that many bee-keepers lost all of them. Drip 
honey sold wholesale as high as 20s. for 5 lbs., and £10 was offered 
for one hive. I think it was in 1837-1838 that the Clyde was 
frozen as far down as Dumbarton Castle, and I remember well 
