October 25, 1888. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
389 
evenly suffused with purple, the lip having a central rich crimson lobe, 
the side lobes white tipped crimson. Powerfully fragrant. 
Cattleya Lamberliurst Hybrid (Baron Schroder).—A cross between 
C. intermedia and C. citrina, one of the most interesting hybrids yet 
obtained; the flowers drooping with narrow sepals and petals, white, 
faintly blush tinted, the lip with a narrow tube and central purplish 
lobe, very fragrant. The pseudo-bulbs are somewhat like C. citrina, 
but more elongated, and bearing the flowers at the apes. Very fragrant, 
but distinct from 0. citrina. 
Oncidium Mantini (J. Veitch & Sons and G. H. Baxter, Esq., 
Hutton Park, Brentwood). — A supposed natural hybrid between 
0. Forbesiand 0. Marshallianum ; the flowers of good size and shape, the 
sepals and petals reddish brown on yellow, the lip broad, spotted brown 
on yellow. 
RhododendronYellow Perfection (J. Veitch & Sens).—A cross between 
E. Teysmanni and R. Lord Wolseley, the flowers 3 inches in diameter, 
the lobes round and broad. 
Chrysanthemum Sunflower (W. Holmes).—A Japanese'variety of 
great merit; the blooms large, the florets long and drooping in the way of 
Belle Paule, but of a rich golden hue. 
Chrysanthemum Lincoln's Inn (W. Holmes and R. Owen).—A 
medium-sized Japanese variety, with reddish fluted drooping or recurv¬ 
ing florets, a bright colour, and distinct. 
Chrysanthemum Magictenne (R. Owen).—A handsome Japanese with 
large blooms, slightly recurving florets, of a bronzy red or bright cinnamon 
hue. 
Chrysanthemum Edwin Molyneux (G. Stevens).—This variety is now 
too well known to need description. It was certificated last year by the 
National Chrysanthemum Society. 
BRIAR v. HANETTI. 
IN the revived dispute of “ Briar v. Manetti ” I have no intention 
of taking a share, inasmuch as it must be settled by those who have 
more varied experience than I, who have never had to deal with any 
soil but a very stiff clay, where Roses on Briar will, as a rule, live and 
thrive well, and on Manetti are but ephemeral. But out of this another 
question arises. I find that sundry varieties, and among them some of 
the best, notably Marie Baumann, A. K. Williams, and Reynolds Hole, 
which will not thrive permanently even on the Briar, but die off or go 
back in two or three years, leaving unsightly gaps in the rows, a matter 
of some importance to those who wish to keep down the nurseryman’s 
bill, and who do not find it quite so easy to bud dwarfs as it was twenty 
or thirty years ago. 
There may, however, be a stock not yet developed on which these, 
and others like them, will permanently thrive. At present 99 per cent, 
of Roses are budded on the two orthodox stocks, and the other 1 per cent, 
on Grifferaie or other fancy stocks. It is much to be wished that some 
one with time and space to spare would experimentalise on various new 
stocks and give the world the result of his experience. It seems, for 
instance, as if John Hopper would be a good stock, strong, clean-growing, 
and not much given to send out base shoots. I would try it myself if I 
had the Rose on its own roots. 
One more question I would suggest for discussion in your columns. 
Has not the time come for a formal divorce in Rose shows between 
H.P.’s and Teas ? They used to be shown together, then the Teas got 
classes to themselves, and were still allowed to be shown in conjunction 
with H.P.’s in the general classes. I think myself that they ought now 
to be relegated to their own special classes and the others have their 
own boxes to themselves. However beautiful they may be, and no one 
can admire them more truly than myself, they seem to me, from their 
very delicacy of colour, out of place among the bolder and more mascu¬ 
line (so to speak) varieties, and we have now a sufficient number of 
light-coloured Roses among the latter to break the uniformity of reds 
to which we had to submit some twenty years ago, unless we put in a 
certain number of varieties inferior in other respects for the sake of 
lightening up the general effect.— Duckwing. 
E03E CULTURE. 
[By Mr. T. Bonep, gardener, Tower House, Chiswick, winner of first prize for an essay 
on some gardening subject. Pr zes offered by Mrs. S. A. Lee, 4, Arlington Park Villas, 
Chiswick, for competition by members of the Chiswick Gardeners’ Mutual Improve¬ 
ment Association, under the age of thirty.] 
In selecting a subject I think I cannot do better than give a few 
practical remarks on the cultivation of the queen of our gardens—the 
Rose, which justly deserves this proud distinction. 
In Rose-growing we have two very important points to consider— 
namely, soil and situation. The Rose succeeds best in a rich loamy soil 
of a rather stiff nature, free from stagnant moisture, as it will not 
flourish long if the ground is badly drained. If draining is required it 
should be done by laying pipes about 3 feet deep. If the soil is light it 
may be improved by adding some very stiff loam and night soil that has 
lain in a heap at least six months, and has had a turning occasionally. 
This should be worked in when the trenching is done, keeping it well , 
under the surface, as it is injurious to the roots of newly planted trees ; 
if night soil cannot be had cow manure should be used. If the soil is- 
stiff clay a dressing of stable manure and lime would improve it, and be 
beneficial to the health of the plants. The ground should be ready for 
planting by the middle of October if possible. 
In choosing a situation an open spot should be selected for the beds, 
so that the plants will have all the benefit of light and air (very im¬ 
portant aids to successful cultivation), sheltered from the cold cutting 
winds, but not overshadowed by trees. In very exposed places shrubs, 
should be planted to break the force of the wind, but they should not 
be planted too near them, otherwise they will impoverish the soil. 
PLANTING. 
The best time to plant Hybrid Perpetuals and others of a similar 
nature is in October and November. If the ground is in proper con¬ 
dition for planting the soil should work clean, so that the roots may 
not be puddled in the operation. All the large roots should be cut 
back to about 9 inches to produce fibrous ones. The holes should be 
about 6 inches to 9 inches deep for standards, but dwarfs require 
deeper planting; the union with the stock should be about 1 inch 
below the surface to cause the Rose to throw out its own roots. Make 
the holes wide enough to allow the roots to be spread out evenly, work¬ 
ing in fine soil around them, and making the ground firm by treading it 
well. The distance apart for standards should be about 2 feet 6 inches 
to 3 feet, dwarfs should be from 18 inches to 2 feet, according to the 
sorts. After planting, place a firm stake to those that require it, to- 
prevent the wind blowing them about. 
PRUNING. 
This must entirely depend on the class to which the plants belong, 
the growth they make, and whether you want Roses for exhibition or 
for general purposes ; if for the former they should be cut hard back, 
but for general purposes to four or five eyes. Strong-growing sorts will 
not require to be cut so hard as weaker ones. If we could be sure that 
we were not to have any spring frosts, I should say prune your Roses in 
the autumn ; but as we have no warranty concerning the weather, it 
is preferable to perform that operation in March, so that by the time 
they begin to make growth the season will have so far advanced that 
there will be no danger of injury from frost. 
PROPAGATION. 
The Rose is propagated in various ways—namely, by seeds, cuttings, 
layers, grafting, and budding. Propagation by seeds is performed with 
a view of obtaining new sorts. The fruit should remain on the plants- 
until quite ripe. Sow the seed in pans in a compost of loam, leaf soil, 
and silver sand, covering them to the depth of about half an inch. The- 
pans should then be placed in a cold frame, putting a sheet of glass 
over them, and covering the same with paper until the seed germinates* 
As soon as the plants are large enough they should be pricked out, and 
watering and shading attended to. In October they should be taken- 
up, the tap roots shortened, and replanted in a sheltered spot, from 
6 inches to 1 foot apart, according to size. 
Cuttings strike freely in autumn and spring, and should be from 
6 inches to 1 foot long, consisting of well-ripened wood. If struck out 
of doors they should be placed on a north border, working in some sand 
and leaf soil. They should be planted 6 inches deep, treading the soil 
firmly and afterwards watering it. Cuttings in pots should be placed 
in a cold frame for about a month, and then in a little bottom heat. 
When rooted pot singly into 54’s, and place in a cold frame until strong 
enough for planting out in the beds, or potted on as required. 
Rose-grafting should be done from January to March. The stocks 
should be established in small pots, and placed in heat a week before 
the operation is carried out. The scions should be from 2 inches to 
3 inches in length, and consist of well-ripened shoots. Make a diagonal 
cut in the stock, and the scion must be cut to match, so that the inner 
bark of both are in contact. Bind the two firmly together with raffia, 
place in bottom heat, and keep close till the union is completed, when 
they should be gradually hardened off. All suckers that spring from- 
the stock must be stopped as soon as they appear. 
Layering is done by bending down a shoot of the Rose after making 
a cut right under and beyond a bud, the cut part being pegged down- 
about 1 inch underground, inserting a piece of crock in the cut to- 
keep it open ; give water as required. In due time roots will be emitted 
from the severed bud, and the branch, when cut away with the newly 
formed roots, will be an independent plant. Midsummer is the best 
time for this business, when the Rose is in full growth. 
Rose-budding is an art which is much easier to perform than describe, 
but is no doubt the best method of propagation in this case. The stock 
generally used is the Dog Rose for standards and half-standards. They 
are got from hedges in autumn. For dwarfs the seedling Briar is much 
used. The stocks should be planted in suitable soil, 1 foot apart in 
the rows and 3 feet asunder. As soon as the buds begin to push in 
spring they should be rubbed off with the exception of two or three 
nearest the top. If they are strong the budding should be done in July. 
When the wood is in proper condition select strong buds of half-ripened 
wood, of the sorts you wish to propagate ; these should be kept moist 
in damp moss. Make a slit in the bark, then loosen the sides with the 
handle of the knife ; cut your bud, and carefully remove the wood 
inside. See that you do not take out the heart of the bud with the 
wood, and do not bruise the inner bark. Insert the bud as quickly as 
possible, tying it in firmly. When the buds begin to move attention 
