396 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 1, 1988. 
attraction in November. Northern and southern growers are 
expected to meet in friendly rivalry ; and probably at no time 
could they have met under more equal conditions, for the summer 
appears to have been almost alike in cold, cloud, and wet over the 
entire Chrysanthemum-growing area, with a dry October following 
everywhere. The results of those conditions remain to be seen, 
and these will perhaps not show a higher standard of excellence than 
has been previously established. It is certain the early October 
frost will be found to have impaired the quality of thousands of 
blooms, for thousands of buds were exposed to it, and the chief 
honours may be expected to fall to the wide-awake growers who 
housed their plants sooner than usual, or during the last week of 
September. 
HARDY PLANTS FOR SPRING FLOWERING. 
The early collapse of the summer occupants and the dry time 
experienced of late has been very favourable for the work of clearing 
and replanting the beds. It should be remembered that many of 
the summer bedding plants, as well as the hardy Wallflowers, 
Forget-me-nots, Silenes, and Saponarias, greatly impoverish the 
soil, and unless the beds are dressed with fairly rich compost or 
short manure at least every second year, it soon becomes too poor 
to cause a healthy growth. In many instances this can better be 
done now than in the spring or early summer months when so 
many other matters require attention. The best material for im¬ 
proving the fertility of the soil, and also to otherwise benefit it, 
will be found in a well-decayed heap of leaves, garden refuse, 
edgings of turf and lawn grass, which ought to be taken good care 
of in all gardens. Failing this, substitute either old hotbed manure 
and soil, or good leaf soil, the last-named being freely used on 
heavy soils. In refilling the beds, all the plants, shrubs, and Conifers 
used should be moved as carefully as possible, preserving a good 
ball of soil about the roots in every case. In order to be effective 
they ought to nearly or quite touch each other, as few of the plants 
used make any progress before the spring or flowering time. All 
should be firmly planted, or otherwise a moderately severe frost 
will upheave the greater portion of them. Owing to the com¬ 
parative dryness of the season it may be necessary to water many 
of the plants and shrubs a few hours prior to removing them, and 
again after they are replanted. 
Many bulbs are available for the decoration of borders and 
flower beds, and seeing that these can be bought at a cheap rate, 
and in most instances flower when the ordinary winter bedding 
plants are still flowerless, no good reason exists for so few, com¬ 
paratively speaking, being planted. The present is a good time to 
purchase and plant the majority of those included in the adver¬ 
tised collections, and many beautiful species may also be ordered 
separately. Whether they shall be planted in beds or in borders 
where they may remain undisturbed for years, must depend upon 
circumstances, and no one need hesitate to commence their culture 
under the impression they are at all difficult to manage and flower. 
ANEMONES. 
The single varieties sold especially for bedding purposes, 
notably the showy and early-flowering Anemone fulgens and the 
Peacock Anemones, are frequently planted in masses or single lines, 
and are very effective early in the spring. They ought to be 
covered with about 3 inches of soil, taking care to plant them eyes 
upwards, and they may be about 6 inches apart each way. Such 
choice double varieties as the French Chrysanthemum-flowered 
and the ordinary Double French, as well as numerous choice varieties, 
ought to be planted as much as possible where they will not be 
disturbed. They are very suitable for associating with alpine 
plants in prominent positions, and they are also very serviceable 
when extensively grown in fruit borders. All merit a rich loamy 
soil, and it the tubers are planted not less than 3 inches deep and 
about 9 inches apart each way, they will gradually cover the whole 
of the ground. Single patches may also be planted and not again 
disturbed. The tuberous Anemones are all very beautiful in a cut 
state, and are frequently available when other flowers are scarce. 
ALSTRCEMERIAS. 
It is useless to plant these in cold damp positions ; they succeed 
best in the comparatively hot and dry borders at the foot of sunny 
dwelling-house walls. They also thrive admirably on poor well- 
drained borders, where they spread and flower abundantly. It is 
necessary to plant them not less than 8 inches deep, and if the 
position prove favourable—that is to say, is sufficiently dry, no 
further pains need be taken with them. Simply let them alone. 
CHIONODOXA LUCILI2E. 
This charming bulb is more popularly known as the Glory of 
the Snow, and is closely allied to the Scilla family. Home-grown 
bulbs are the best, and these may be planted in patches along the 
front of mixed borders, and are especially attractive among low 
rockwork plants. No special soil is needed, and they should be 
planted 4 inches deep and that distance apart, and not to be 
disturbed for many years. 
CROCUSES. 
These are suitable for the front lines of flower beds or for 
mixed borders. If put out 4 inches deep and 3 inches apart in 
fairly rich soil and not disturbed for several years the bulbs 
increase rapidly, gradually finding their way nearer to the surface, 
and every spring present a grand mass of colour. They also 
succeed fairly well when lifted after the leaves have died, being 
returned to the ground in the autumn. 
CYCLAMEN. 
The Europaeum and Coum varieties are fairly hardy, but as a 
rule they are most effective when treated as alpine plants, sheltered' 
rockwork better suiting them than damp and cold flower beds. 
When in good health both the foliage and flowers are beautiful. 
Plenty of sharp sand should be mixed with the peaty soil intended 
for their reception, and a rather shady position best suits them. 
ERYTHRONIUM OR DOG’ATOOTH YIOLET. 
This little gem ought to be permanently planted in peaty soil, 
or in a mixture of fresh loam and leaf soil. They ought to be 
planted rather thickly, and not less than 2 inches deep, along the 
fronts of mixed borders, beds, or shrubberies, where they will 
spread, first the flowers and then the foliage being attractive. 
FRITILLAR'AS. 
The Imperial section are tall growers, and their proper place is 
near the back of mixed borders. The varieties of F. Meleagris 
attain a height of 1| foot, and F. prsecox is still more dwarf. A 
deep rich soil and rather shady position suits them. They are best 
moved with a little soil about the bulbs, and if about six of these 
are grouped together a fine mas3 results in the course of a few 
years. 
HYACINTHS. 
These are fine for either flower beds or mixed borders, no class 
of bulbs being more showy early in the spring. They are most 
effective when massed in mixed colours, and clumps of one colour 
are also attractive. A deep and fairly rich loamy soil suits them, 
and they ought to be covered with 4 inches of soil. If dotted 
among carpeting plants they may be placed out 12 inches apart, 
but if massed they ought to be about 8 inches apart each way. 
The Grape, Feather, and Musk Hyacinths are most effective in 
clumps along the fronts of mixed borders and ought not often to 
he disturbed. All are very pretty and worthy of cultivation. 
IRISES. 
The bulbous rooted Irises are very beautiful, and are suitable 
either for beds or borders. If planted in patches of about five 
bulbs and duly marked either winter or summer bedding plants 
may carpet the ground, and the Irises will be improved by being 
undisturbed. They require a good loamy soil, and should be 
planted 4 inches below the surface. The English varieties are the 
earliest, and the Spanish form a good succession. 
NARCISSI AND DAFFODILS. 
The choicest of these ought to be planted in patches of three or 
more bulbs where they will not be disturbed for some time, and 
every season the clumps will improve in value. Plant not less than 
4 inches deep in fairly good soil. Those bedded out may be treated 
similarly to the Hyacinths. 
TULIPS. 
The sooner these are planted the better. They require to be 
treated similarly to Hyacinths, but should be planted more thickly, 
or from 4 inches to 6 inches apart, according to the variety, the 
Van Thols being the smallest. 
VARIOUS BULBS. 
Snowdrops, Leucojums, Scillas, Zephyranthes Candida, Winter 
Aconite, and Triteleia uniflora to be treated similarly to Crocuses, 
patches in front rows of shrubberries and flower borders being very 
effective. Snowdrops succeeded admirably planted on lawns, 
where they spread rapidly. Ornithogalum arabicum should be 
planted in a sheltered spot, Jonquils treated somewhat similarly to 
Narcissi, and Hyacinthus candicans be planted in mixed borders 
and not disturbed. Tigridias to be kept out of the ground till the 
spring unless a warm dry position can be assigned it. Plant Ranun¬ 
culus in November and December, and Liliums candidum, auran- 
