400 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November I, 1888. 
spike with imbricating leaves and bracts, as shown in fig. 46, the 
colour being a soft blush or pinkish hue. S. aureum is one of the 
finest of the genus, the flowers large, rich orange, occasionally 
shaded with crimson. The last named plant has been successfully 
grown by Mr. Wildsmith at Heckfield. 
SOPHRONITIS GRANDIFLORA. 
This bright Orchid is flowering well at the present time in the 
gardens of Chios House, Clapham Park, and this charming Orchid 
is one of many that are well grown by Mr. W. Collins, well known 
as the Secretary of the United Horticultural Benefit and Provident 
Society. That Mr. Collins’ zeal on behalf of the Society does not 
cause him to neglect his professional duties is evident from the 
condition of the plants under his charge, a somewhat extensive 
collection, testifying by their healthy appearance to his skill as a 
cultivator. 
CYPRIPEDIUM ELLIOTTIANUM. 
A new Cypripedium has recently been imported from the 
Philippine Islands, and has received the above name. A flower 
which expanded on the plants while in the cases has been forwarded 
to us with a leaf. It is evidently a strong grower, and is said to be 
very free, having been found with five flowers on a spike. The 
flower sent reminds us of C. Stonei in shape, the lip veined and 
flushed with rosy purple, the dorsal sepals white with strongly 
marked longitudinal deep purplish crimson lines, the petals narrow, 
drooping, and dotted with a similar colour to the lip on a white 
ground. The flower in question is no doubt much below its full 
size, but it is 3| inches in depth from tip to tip of the sepals, and 
the petals are about the same length each. 
ORCHID PROTECTOR. 
Enclosed please find model of a contrivance for protecting the 
young growths of Lapagerias, Orchids, &c., from the attacks of 
slugs, mice, woodlice, &c. As you will see, the protector is made 
so that the growth to be protected comes through the central tube, 
the space between the tube and outer rim being filled with water or 
chemicals distasteful to slugs and other vermin. It is made in 
various sizes, and we intend to have it made in pottery ware from 
about 3 to inches in diameter. We have it in zinc with three 
prongs at the bottom to fix it firmly in the soil. It is the invention 
of H. R. Bridson, Esq., and is provisionally patented. Will you 
kindly give me, through the Journal, your opinion of it, whether 
there is likely to be a demand for it sufficiently large to make it 
worth while to complete the patent and advertise it in the garden¬ 
ing papers ? At present I am unable to say at what price it will be 
sold.—T. Arrowsmith. 
[The contrivance appears to be a simple and useful one that 
could no doubt be produced at a cheap price, and in that case would 
probably command a ready sale if well advertised. It consists of a 
funnel into which is soldered a cylinder at the lower end, thus 
leaving a space to be filled by a liquid between the expanded portion 
of the funnel and the cylinder. There might in some instances be a 
little difficulty in fixing it over Orchid spikes, but the three prongs 
mentioned would facilitate this considerably.] 
ORCHID FLOWER HOLDER. 
Mr. Alfred Outram, 7, Moore Park Road, Fulham, sends us 
a specimen of a contrivance for holding Orchid flowers when cut 
from the plants, a patented invention by Captain Maxwell, Terregles, 
Dumfries. Mr. Outram observes, “ It is a fact well known to all 
Orchid growers that valuable plants are frequently much reduced 
in vigour and health through their flowers being left on them too 
long after they have reached matuiity. The object of this simple 
contrivance is to enable growers to relieve their plants by cutting 
off the spikes, putting them in the tubes filled with water, and 
inserting the flower-holder in a natural position in the pots. The 
wire being pliable, the tubes can be placed in any convenient 
position, so that a natural effect can be gained by showing the 
spikes in conjunction with the plants, at the same time relieving 
the latter of the heavy strain upon them. Floral decorators will 
find the Orchid Flower-holder most useful, inasmuch as being made 
of any length it will enable them to arrange for the distribution of 
flowers in positions that without it cannot now be utilised.” The 
holder consists of a simple narrow cylinder, closed at the lower end, 
and fixed to the upper portion of a stout wire, which can be inserted 
in a pot in any desired position. 
PLANTING FLOWER BEDS FOR SPRING. 
I notice in the Journal of October 11th a few words on this subject 
by Mr. Ward, and now is the time when the subject should be brought 
prominently forward, for our ordinary summer gardening has this season 
been very unsatisfactory. The best bed I had amonest others was one 
of a silver-leaf Pelargonium and Viola Countess of Kintore, and I have 
seen how well Violas have flowered in Mr. Dean’s nursery at Solihull, 
which is near to our gardens, so that I have determined to use them 
more extensively another year. I know also that Mr. Brown at Elmdon 
Hall, one of the best known gardens in the Birmingham district, intends 
discontinuing to some extent the usual bedding plants and using Violas 
much more than he has done. Violas work in so well with Tulips, 
Narcissus, and other plants, and with these bulbs keep up a succession 
of bloom from the end of March to as late as wanted—that is for spring 
bedding; then the Violas can be taken up in June, cut back, and laid in 
on a shady border for autumn. Violas for planting in May and June 
should be removed with balls of wet earth or from pots, but as I have 
grown Violas now as decorative plants for a few years, I stronvly advise 
planting in October or November for a spring and summer display. The 
selection I have made this year for adding to mine are :—In yellows, 
Golden Prince Improved is the best and most lasting deep yellow, and 
Ardwell Gem, pale yellow, and both of a dwarf compact habit. In 
whites, Countess of Hopetown supersedes so many others, dwarf and 
compact, of good constitution, and a wonderful bloomer; and Mrs. 
Grey is a very free bloomer, but is tinted with lilac in hot weather, 
but it has the merit of being very sweet scented. In blues nothing 
equals Dean’s True Blue, perfect in habit and an excellent bloomer. 
Queen of Lilacs and Archie Grant are two other first rate varieties. 
Holyrood was always a favourite with me, and it has done well this year. 
There are others of great merit, and many of the new ones of great 
beauty. Elegans, for instance, a pretty lavender, and makes rather long 
growth, but is a great bloomer, and fine mixed with yellow Calceolarias 
or white variegated Pelargoniums. I have seen the Violas about here, 
masses of flower which the continued wet weather did not seriously 
affect, whilst beds of Pelargoniums, &c., had a sad washed-out appear¬ 
ance. The Violas were bright, for although heavy rains caused a little 
hanging of their heads, an hour’s sunshine brightened them again. 
I find, however, that the flowers of the purple varieties will not stand 
so much wet as the others do, but damp off, and I find that of the 
purples Unique did the best. The Aubrietia I find to be most useful for 
spring work, and the Silene where it will stand, but in the midlands I 
find a difficulty in keeping it from damping unless in a mild dry 
time.—W. C. 
NOTE3 ON PLANTING. 
The time has now arrived when rosarians should be busy in making 
arrangements for planting, for forming new beds, ordering new Roses, 
and moving plants of their own. November is generally considered the 
best month for planting, but probably a good many plants, all those 
which have ceased to grow, might now be moved with safety ; and the 
sooner the better, as the fact that Roses do make fresh roots during the 
winter months was, if I recollect right, fairly established in the Journal 
some years ago. Any time during the winter will do for planting when 
the weather is open and fairly dry, though that combination is not 
always easy to find after Christmas ; in fact, in the disastrous year of 
1879 I successfully moved some outdoor standard Roses from a place 
two or three counties away on May 10th, and they grew and did well. 
Still, it is best to plant early, not only for the sake of the well doing of 
the plants, but also because we have now a better chance of obtaining 
good plants from the nurseries than when their stores are running low. 
And on this subject I am glad to think that amateurs may congratulate 
one another upon the fact that Roses are now “ cheaper than ever.” 
The main points in Rose-planting are pretty generally understood, 
and need not be enlarged on. They are :—Do not unpack in severe 
frost; lay in the roots, and perhaps wet the tops till the actual time of 
planting ; never expose the roots to the air longer than necessary ; 
have some fine fairly dry soil under cover to place against the roots if 
your soil is very heavy, or if you are obliged to plant at a wet time; 
do not plant deeply, but with dwarf budded plants just bury the union 
of stock and scion ; cut cleanly off all bruised portions of roots before 
planting ; let all the manure you use be well rotted, and let none of it 
actually touch the roots ; plant firmly, carefully, and evenly. 
All these points are to be found mentioned in any work on Roses or 
calendar of operations ; but in the excellent instructions issued with Mr. 
Frank Cant’s catalogue I find two points which are not often alluded to. 
The first relates to Rose plants, which, owing to delay in transit, arrive 
in a shrivelled state. I cannot answer for the treatment recommended, 
but can quite believe that it would be effectual. It is simply to bury 
them completely, roots, tops, and leaves, about 6 inches deep for three 
days, soaking the whole, when buried, thoroughly with water. I have 
never had occasion to try this myself. These must be, I should think, 
very unreasonable delay in carriage, or considerable want of care in 
packing, to cause sound wood to arrive in a shrivelled state anywhere 
within the British Isles ; but I imagine it might well happen with 
exported or imported plants, and if anyone on receiving Roses in such 
a state should be inclined to throw them away it would be well to 
remember and try this plan. 
The second point is the arrangement of the roots in planting. This 
