.November 1, 1888. J 
.TOTTEN AL OF HO / TTC1ULTTTRE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
401 
is very important, and indeed is the very essence itself of successful 
planting. Each root should be laid out separately and carefully ; and 
in doing this remember that the bark, so to speak, of the roots is easily 
rubbed off, and any such wound causes injury. In handling each root 
“ use him as if you loved him,” as old Isaac Walton said of the worm as 
he passed the fish-hook through him. Share the whole room at disposal 
equally and fairly among the roots, keeping them from touching each 
other. If it seems impossible to prevent their crossing raise one and 
lower the other, and put some fine soil between them. If circumstances 
compel you to fit the roots to the place instead of the place to the roots 
choose rather to cut a root off cleanly than to coil it round. We will 
not now raise again the question of last year as to whether it is desirable 
or not to retain the tap roots of Roses worked on the Briar seedling ; 
but remember that the minutes spent in planting are all-important to 
the spring growth, and that it is little use wasting much time in careful 
pruning of the branches in March if the roots are packed in anyhow in 
November. A careful amateur, even if he is unable to assist in it 
himself, will not delegate the work of planting in his absence to anyone 
whom he has not carefully proved by experience. And, lastly, remember 
that it is very difficult for one man to manage anything but the smallest 
plants alone ; and in all cases two men will do the work quicker and 
much more efficiently. 
I always move a few newly budded stocks every year. Care in 
planting is everything in this case, and a certain proportion will do as 
well as if they had not been moved. In April, 1887, I found a budded 
Briar cutting in a secluded part of the garden which had been acci¬ 
dentally dropped the November before, and had lain on the ground all 
the winter ; it did fairly well on being planted carefully. I rescued 
another from the rubbish heap last winter, just in time to prevent its 
being burnt, and that, too, made fair growth ; but, as a rule, it is better 
to leave the budded stocks where they are, if possible, for one year. 
Now is the time also to prepare Briar cutt ings for striking ; a far 
larger proportion will grow, if put in now, than if inserted later. Make 
the cuttings about 10 inches long ; be very careful to cut out all the 
eyes except the two top ones. Choose well-ripened small wood in pre¬ 
ference to sappy thick shoots, and insert them up to the bottom bud in 
not too heavy soil. It must be a clean piece of soil, too, or the cuttings 
must be set well apart, for it is a difficult crop to keep free from weeds. 
If exposed to a severe winter it will be well to go over them in the 
spring, and push down again to the bottom of their holes any which 
have been raised by the frost. 
The severe frosts which we have already had have cut off all our 
tender flowers, and at the same time I am glad to say have put a stop 
to the earwigs for this season. From the end of May to October 1st we 
destroyed on an average 400 a day, but they completely disappeared 
with the first frost, and the only one I have seen since was a lively 
specimen which arrived by post last week inside my copy of the Journal, 
so there are some in Fleet Street still. 
ROSE STOCKS. 
1 do not think “Duckwing” would find any of the H.P. Eoses 
better than the common Briar as stocks. The advantage of the latter 
is that, either as cutting or seedling, it forms very strong roots the 
second year, which the H.P. Eoses do not do by themselves. It would 
not be much in favour of John Hopper as a stock that it does not 
generally make base shoots, for it certainly would, when cut back after 
budding, if the eyes had not been originally taken out. Some of the 
Gloire de Dijon race of Teas form pretty good stocks for strong-growing 
Teas or for Mardchal Niel. I have now a capital strong plant of William 
A. Eichardson, which I budded on a cutting of Madame Berard. It 
seems a fair question as to whether Tea Eoses should still be allowed 
to be shown among the H.P.’s. Personally I should much deprecate 
their exclusion ; and it must be remembered we have as yet no 
yellow H.P. 
It is well known that what Mr. Murphy ca’ls “ manufacturing yearly 
Eoses ” is a process almost necessary for exhibitors, because some of the 
best Show varieties are seldom found to perfection except on yearling 
plants. This entails a double amount of space, and a fresh supply of 
stocks every season. Some years ago I “ had an idea,” as the French say. 
by which I hoped to obviate this necessity. Weakly sorts, and those of 
bad constitution, do best the year after budding, because they are so 
strongly supported by the abundant roots called forth by the wild top 
growth of the year before. They fail, comparatively speaking, the 
next year, because their over-weak growth, which alone has been per¬ 
mitted, has starved the roots and rendered them weaker. My idea was — 
and I only thought of standards at that time—not to bud on the top 
lateral, but on one below it, and in the following spring in cutting the 
top lateral away, not utterly to destroy it, but allow room for one wild 
bud at least to perish. This wild shoot to be pinched back and ripened 
as much as possible without actual destruction during the time of growth 
and flowering of the Eose ; but, as soon as the two or three blooms had 
been taken, to be allowed to grow again as much as it liked during the 
rest of the year. I fancied this would restore and keep up the strength 
of the roots. The following March the wild shoot and the Eose to be 
pruned back to one bud each, and the Briar shoot to be pinched back 
during the spring as before ; and the idea was that the plants would thus, 
during the months of August and September, yearly renew their youth. 
They would not look very nice during the autumn months, but would not 
be worse in appearance than budded stocks usually are, and the plan was 
only meant for those sorts which exhibitors consider it necessary to bud 
each year, and which are not suited for general garden decoration, such 
as Horace Vernet (especially), Harrison Weir, Louis Van Houtte, Xavier 
Olibo, and perhaps Monsieur Noman. 
1 did make a trial with a small row of standards budded with Horace 
Vernet, but happened to leave my then residence before the experi¬ 
ment was complete, and have never had any standards since. It has 
now, however, occurred to me that the same thing might be carried out 
with Briar cutting, and even with Manetti, though not very well svith 
Briar seedling ; and I mean to try it.—W. E. Raillem. 
ROSE CULTURE. 
[By Mr. T. Bones, pnrfiener, Tower House, Chiswick, winner of first prize for an essay 
on some gardening subject. Pr zes offered by Mrs. S. A. Lee, 4 , Arlington ILirk Villas 
Chiswick, for competition by members of the Chiswick Gardeners’ Mutual Improve¬ 
ment Association, under the age of thirty.] 
(Continued from page 300.') 
FORCING. 
Roses can be had early in the year (and what is more acceptable 
than blooms of this charming plant in spring time ?) by placing them 
in gentle heat. Of course, they must be previously prepared for this 
work, and none but well-established plants should be forced. The wood 
should be well ripened up by the autumn, and pruning should be done 
when the plants are at rest. Much time is lost if this is deferred till 
the buds begin to burst—not only time, but it tends to weaken the 
plants, because the young wood swells, and that at the base remains 
dormant, as one cuts away the growth that has already been made. On 
the other hand, if the pruning had been done early, all the energy 
would have gone to produce flower shoots. As soon as the plants are 
placed in heat they should be kept syringed and placed near the gla s to 
get all the light and air possible. They should never know the want of 
water. When the buds are beginning to swell they should be supplied 
with stimulants. Soot water or Clay’s fertiliser will be found beneficial, 
and may be given as required. If convenient the pots should be plunged 
in leaves, as this tends to keep them moist. If mildew makes its 
appearance give a dusting of flowers of sulphur. Green fly should be 
destroyed by fumigating with tobacco. 
Select plants for forcing that are of a free-growing nature and dwarf 
habit, care being taken not to let any cutting wind come directly on the 
plants, as this is injurious to the young growth. As soon as the plants 
have done flowering, and the weather is favourable, they should be 
placed out of doors, and kept syringed once or twice daily. This keeps 
down red spider and other insects. Watering should be well attended 
to when making their growth ; the pots may be plunged in ashes. About 
July the plants that require it should be repotted, but care must be 
taken not to overpot them. Use a compost of fibrous loam, cow 
manure, and a little peat or leaf soil and sand for Teas, but for Hybrid 
Perpetuals and all other strong-growing sorts the compost should be 
more of a stiff nature ; pot firmly. Those that do not require potting 
should be top-dressed, taking off a portion of the old soil and replacing 
with new, making it quite firm. 
SELECT LIST OF VARIETIES. 
The following serviceable sorts I would recommend for general 
purposes—namely, Teas Anna Olivier, flesh colour, large ; Catherine 
Mermet, delicate flesh colour ; Devoniensis, cieamy white ; Gloire de 
Dijon, buff, orange centre ; Isabella Sprunt, sulphur-yellow, very free ; 
Niphetos, white Perle des Jardins, deep straw colour; and Souvenir 
d’un Ami, salmon-rose. 
Chline Forestier, bright yellow ; Rcve d’Or, yellow ; Marshal Niel 
(everybody’s favourite), bright yellow ; and W. A. Richardson, deep 
orange-yellow, are all good Noisettes. 
Abel Carriere, velvety maroon ; Alfred Colomb, carmine-red ; 
A. K. Williams (a grand sort), crimson ; Beauty of Waltham, light 
crimson ; Boule de Neige, white ; Baroness Rothschild, pink ; Char es 
Lefebvre, velvety crimson; Captain Christy, flesh colour ; Dr. Andry, 
red ; Fisher Holmes, scarlet-red ; General Jacqueminot, brilliant red ; 
John Stuart Mill, clear red ; John Hopper, rosy crimson ; La France, 
lilac-rose; Prince Camille de Rohan, dark crimson ; and Star of 
Waltham, bright crimson, are very select H.P.’s. 
In conclusion, let me observe that whatever the would-be Eose 
cultivator takes in hand with regard to the national favourite flower, let 
it be done thoroughly, for, as"Dean Hole has so well written in his 
delightful book on the Rose, “ He who would have beautiful Roses In 
his garden must have beautiful Roses in his heart 1” 
LONDON’S LESSER OPEN SPACES—THEIR 
TREES AND PLANTS. 
NEW SERIES.—No. 10. 
No one can stroll about the districts of western London which 
it is the fashion to call Tyburnia and Westburnia, comprising 
portions of what is otherwise known as Paddington and Bayswater, 
without seeing many proofs in gardens and windows that the in¬ 
habitants are fond of flowers, a fact which is of advantage to the 
florists of the Uxbridge and Edgeware Roads. Paddington is not 
one of those suburbs which in the olden time were notable for their 
gardens, orchards, and parks. The greater part of the moist meadows 
into which it was divided were devoted to pasturage till some fifty 
or sixty years ago. On its east, however, there was woodland, for 
St. John’s Wood was not merely a name, it had a fine growth of 
