404 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 1, 1888 
fine stands of blooms gained various honours at local shows. The 
collection of plants is not so large as some exhibitors would consider 
necessary, but every one is well grown, and the blooms expanding are in 
many cases of exceptional quality, only needing fine weather to keep 
them in good condition for the shows. For instance, the best examples 
of Edwin Molyneux we have yet seen are developing on crown buds, 
grand, deep, richly coloured blooms, showing the distinct characters of 
this variety admirably. Boule d’Or is another variety in remarkably 
fine condition, and there, too, is Grandiflorum opening well on crown 
buds in direct opposition to the experience of some growers. Deep, 
clean, incurved blooms and bright substantial Japanese characterise 
the collection ; but the other sections are also represented, and up to the 
present Mr. Munro has ample cause to be satisfied with his prospects. 
At Poulett Lodge, Twickenham, Mr. W. Bates grows some Chrysan¬ 
themums, and grows them well, as indeed he does everything else in his 
charge. He does not pose, however, as a champion exhibitor with these 
plants, which are grown more for grouping or cutting. Still good 
blooms have been obtained that would not disgrace many exhibitions to 
be held this year. It is surprising that often without any special effort 
better results are secured than attend the more elaborate systems of 
culture. Not that any kind of carelessness is advisable, but sometimes 
growers become too anxious ; they try to hurry their plants too much, or 
to treat them too liberally, and in such a season as the present the effects 
are disastrous. 
TEDDINGTON. 
Mr. Walter Furze, The Roselands, Teddington, is an enthusiastic 
amateur admirer of the Chrysanthemum, and with his gardener, Mr. 
Coombs, has on several occasions in past years proved what a combina¬ 
tion of skill and enthusiasm can produce in the way of exhibition blooms. 
Judging by the condition of the collection this se»son we should think 
they will surpass their previous record as successful competitors. The 
garden is situated close to the Thames, within a short distance of Ted¬ 
dington Lock, and consequently fogs, mists, and atmospheric moisture 
generally are so abundant at this time of year that it could scarcely be 
considered a favourable situation for Chrysanthemums. Notwithstand¬ 
ing this, however, the blooms borne by the 450 plants grown are the 
freshest and best we have yet seen around London. Incurved, Japanese, 
Anemones, reflexed, all are well represented both in varieties and 
number of plants, but there are blooms of the first two groups that for 
depth, solidity and cleanness are not likely to be surpassed by many in 
1888. Empress Eugenie, Queen of England, Empress of India, and 
others of the Queen type are grand, while some blooms of Refulgence 
must be ranked amongst the finest that we have ever had the pleasure 
of seeing. In the Japanese also the same remarkable substance is 
notable, and a good example is-afforded by the beautiful white variety 
Florence Percy. This was recently shown before the Floral Committee 
of the National Chrysanthemum Society, but judging by the blooms 
exhibited it was considered too thin to be worthy of a certificate. Had 
the Roselands blooms been shown there would have been no hesitation 
about it, for one of these is nearly 4 inches deep, a grand solid bloom of 
white lace-like florets, very pure and handsome. Mrs. J. Wright is also 
as beautiful as when shown last year, Edwin Molyneux and several other 
new varieties being scarcely less conspicuous. But to enumerate all of 
first-rate merit would include a large proportion of the collection, and 
we can promise that competitors in the same classes as Mr, Furze who 
succeed in winning the first prizes will amply deserve them. 
Very near to The Roselands is Weir Bank, the residence of T. P. 
Chappell, Esq., and there al-o Chrysanthemums receive attention with 
good results. A three-quarter-span Peach house, 100 feet long, is 
devoted to the plants, which, though somewhat later than their neigh¬ 
bours, are creditable productions, good blooms being notable of most of 
the leading varieties. Mr. Davis evidently understands the require¬ 
ments of his plants and treats them well.— L. Castle. 
COLD FRAMES. 
How few people who have a piece of ground at their command have 
known the delights of a cold frame. Many people have a yearning for 
a bit of greenhouse, and look forward to the time when they may have 
one, even if rude and unconventional, but a well-built cold frame, pro¬ 
perly cared for, can discount the greenhouse in some respects both as 
to results and expense, for a greenhouse is expensive, that is, if you 
expect to keep it in proper trim during long cold winters ; and unless 
you have plenty of leisure time there are many days when you would 
want to delegate jour duties to someone else, and take a breathing 
spell. A cold frame, however, can be run with the minimum of work 
and the maximum of results, provided you are not too grasping, and 
want to grow Orchids and exotics in it. But half-hardy plants can be 
grown in a cold frame to perfection, and I hope to show how this can 
be done, for the benefit of those who have never attempted to 
manage one. 
First get your cold frame. This can be done on the assumption that 
you want one about 18 feet long and 6 feet wide. This will require six 
sashes 6 by 3 feet. For location, light being the essential in winter, an 
exposure to the south and east is the best, the morning sun in late 
autumn, winter, and spring being most valuable to all plants grown in 
frames. A stout inch plank for the back of the frame about a foot in 
width, and a somewhat narrower one for the front, to provide for the 
necessary slope towards the south or south-east, must be placed in the 
position selected for the frame, and the ends of the same kind of plank 
may be united to connect the two. These end planks should be cut so 
as to slope from the rear to the front and inside of the frame, at dis¬ 
tances of 3 feet apart; small pieces of timber 2 to 3 inches square may 
be nailed to connect the rear and front planks of the frame. These 
serve as rests for the sashes when they are placed upon the frame, a d 
as braces to strengthen the structure, without obstructing the light to 
any great degree. 
The rear of the frame is thus about 4 to 5 inches higher than the 
front when in position, and affords a slope for the sashes, catching all 
the meagre sunlight of winter, and shedding the rain and melting snow 
which may fall upon them. Some frames may be dovetailed instead of 
nailed if the builder wishes to have more solidity, but this is not 
requisite. In the autumn another tight plank about a foot wide should 
be placed entirely around the frame about a foot from the inner struc¬ 
ture, and fixed in an upright position firmly by means of short stakes 
driven into the ground. The space thus formed should then be packed 
firmly with dry leaves until entirely full. 
This forms adequate protection against frost, and is absolutely 
essential if one desires to keep the contents of the frame in a growing 
condition during the winter. Six cold frame sashes can then be pro¬ 
cured from any dealer, and in purchasing sashes it is well to see that 
they are strongly constructed and well glazed and painted. Cheap 
sashes are of litt e use, and the glass ought also to be of the best make 
to prevent unnecessary breakage and insure clear passage of the sun 3 
rays. 
Straw mats, which are used by market gardeners, are essential, and 
these can be made on the place. For a frame 18 feet long three mats 
would suffice. To protect these mats from snow and rain, six wooden 
shutters 3 feet wide and 6 feet long can be made out of boards and 
painted to prevent them from rotting; these, with the mats, ought to 
afford ample protection to any frame built as described from the severest 
frosts of winter, and if to the beginner the paraphernalia seems formid¬ 
able, there is comfort in realising that it is not expensive, and ought to 
last several years. 
With the frame constructed, and the protection of its contents pro¬ 
vided for, the soil within it ought to be a good strong loam, well trenched 
or spaded, and for certain kinds of plants, like Pansies, it will be 
necessary to add well-rotted manure in liberal quantities. In subse¬ 
quent comments upon the various kinds of plants which can be 
successfully grown and flowered in a cold frame, it will be shown which 
do better with or without manure. 
The general idea prevails that manure is essential to all kinds of 
plants, bqt experience has shown that in instances where good loam 
can be provided, it is not only not essential, but an injury, notably in 
the case of Violets. This statement may be questioned by some, but 
close observers of the disease of spot, which has made Violet culture in 
many localities an impossibility, have found that the use of manure is 
one of the causes of the disease. 
In a cold frame different kinds of soil may be provided for certain 
plants, according to their needs, but most of them are not exacting in 
this respect, all other essentials being provided for. In a cold frame 
many kinds of plants can be grown, to the delight and satisfaction of 
the owner. If a greenhouse cannot be had the frame affords an excel¬ 
lent substitute. There may be grown Violets, Pansies, hardy Primroses 
or Polyanthus, Japan Primroses or Primula cortusoides, one of the most 
beautiful plants we have, Anemone coronaria, a most gorgeous flower, 
iu all shades of blue, scarlet, white, pink, &c. Christmas Roses or 
Hellebores, Daisies, tender bulbous plants, like certain kinds of Iris, 
Triteleias, Ixias, Freesias, &c., and many other things which, as one goes 
on gaining knowledge, offer themselves as delightful substitutes for the 
regulation greenhouse stuff which one sees on every hand. After 
experience with both greenhouse and cold frame, one hesitates as to 
which he would sooner part with, with an ultimate mental reservation 
in favour of the latter. 
A cold frame needs attention. It must not be expected after it is 
constructed and planted that there is nothing more to be done. On 
the contrary, as soon as winter sets in it must be uncovered on all 
bright days, when the sun shines sufficiently to counteract the outside 
cold, and the sashes must be tilted a little to give air, unless the 
temperature is below freezing point, and in the afternoon, just before 
the sun leaves it if the weather is cold, the mats and shutters can 
be put over it, and it can be closed for the night. As the sun’s heat 
grows and the days lengthen more exposure can be given until all 
danger of frost is past, when the sashes can be removed altogether. 
The contents of a frame, however hardy, are never improved by being 
frozen, so one must vigorously guard against Jack Frost. 
If all this bother seems like drudgery then it had better not be 
attempted, but it is assumed the owner of a cold frame, who has 
m istered its management and achieved the best results, will feel that 
no effort or attention it too great for the proper care of it. Its delights 
and surprises are manifold, and many a toiler among commonplace 
surroundings and influences would find it a relief from the irksome 
cares which fall to the lot of most of us .—(American Cultivator.') 
PLUMIERA BICOLOR. 
At the last Floral Committee meeting of the National Chrysanthe¬ 
mum Society, Mr. H. Cannell brought up a fineexample of a plant he 
had without a name, and after seriously puzzliDg the majority of those 
present, it was determined to be Plumiera bicolor (fig. 47). Though the 
