November 15, 183S. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
443 
A very usual practice with cultivators after the plants are potted is 
to stand them outside. This necessitates frequently watering the plants 
And does them considerable harm, besides washing away food supplies 
from the soil that will be required by the plants the following season. 
They make few, if any, roots when subjected to this treatment, and in 
addition must be placed in frames directly a few sharp frosts are experi¬ 
enced for fear of injury to the pots. The best plan is to plunge the 
pots in ashes, there is nothing better, covering the rim of the pot and 
surface of the,soil. If this is done all the attention needed will be to 
syringe the plants during dry weather to insure the foliage remaining 
fresh. Water at their roots will not be required, evaporation is pre¬ 
vented, and the soil remains in about the same state of moisture when 
tthey are placed in frames as when they were first potted. This treat¬ 
ment suits the plants admirably, and they make fresh roots quickly. 
Before it is necessary to place them under cover—which can be done 
when convenient, for the pots are safe against frost—the roots will 
have reached the sides of the pots; in fact they will be sufficiently 
•established to make a vigorous growth and produce fine blooms. The 
weather alone should guide the cultivator when to give the plants cold 
frame protection. Moderate frost will do them no harm, but if very 
wet weather sets in they are better in frames than outside. If the pots 
•can be plunged in the frames all the better, but this is not important. 
The lights of the frames should be drawn off during fine weather. 
The plants may be pruned the last week in January or the first in the 
following month, the shoots being well cut back and not left 6 to 
4 inches in length, for they seldom break from the base, and therefore 
■no advantage is gained. Two or three eyes on each shoot are sufficient. 
The plants may be arranged where they are to grow and the pots 
plunged to the rim. Each plant should have room to develope without 
being crowded. If they come forward under the influence of plenty of 
air they will make sturdy growth, fine foliage, and flower at the end of 
April, or they may be sufficiently retarded to just precede the outdoor 
supply. In this case they need not be pruned before the end of February. 
When they have flowered they can be plunged outside and placed 
during June or the early part of July into 9-inch pots. At this stage I 
will leave them, for if well cared for they will be in good condition for 
flowering in March the following season. Suitable varieties will be 
found on page 401 in the issue for May 17th last.—Wai. Bardney. 
freely and evenly ; if the latter, add coarse sand, charred soil—anything 
that will keep it open and porous. To the loam add one-seventh of 
decayed manure, one 6-inch potful of soot to each barrowful of soil, and 
the same quantity of quarter-inch bones with the dust left in. The soil 
must be in an intermediate state of moisture ; this is important, for if 
the plants are treated as I shall advise they will need no water at their 
roots until after they are pruned, if then. If the soil is dry it will be 
necessary to water the plants, but it is better to water the soil before it 
Is used and throw it into a heap for some hours, and then turn and mix 
it thoroughly. On the other hand, the soil must not be used too wet ; 
this is a much greater evil than the other, for if the plants are potted in 
■wet soil they are seldom satisfactory. Potting is a simple process. 
The union of the stock and Rose should be just below the surface of the 
•Soil when the plants are finished, say half an inch. The soil should be 
pressed moderately firm into the pots. 
provided they are deep enough to be well out of the way of the hoe, the 
roots of Roses which are well cared for cannot be too near the surface. 
—W. R. Raillem. 
TRIDAX BICOLOR ROSEA. 
The yellow-flowered Compositse are so numerous in late summer 
and autumn that it is quite a relief to obtain any additions to the 
DEEP PLANTING. 
A POINT in Ro3e-planting, which I believe to be of the utmost 
importance, is the depth at which the roots are laid out. It is desirable 
for all budded dwarfs, and necessary for those on Manetti, that the 
union of scion and stock should be beneath the surface, that the Rose 
may form roots for itself ; but, with this proviso, my advice would be, 
Plant as shallow as you can. 
A good rule to remember in the transplanting of all trees and shrubs 
is not to plant the tree deeper than it has been hitherto. And as dwarf 
Roses are budded at the nurseries not more than half an inch below 
the surface, and frequently above it, I believe that to plant so deeply as 
to bring this junction 3 inches below the surface (as I have lately seen 
(recommended) is always hurtful and frequently fatal. 
I have witnessed during the past week the lifting of some Briar 
cutting Roses which were put in as fine plants this time last year. They 
proved a great failure, some actually dying, while the remainder just 
lived, and that was all, though old-established plants in the same bed 
with the same treatment did remarkably well. On lifting the cause of 
failure was, in my estimation, plain. The union of stock and Rose was 
About 3 inches more or less in each case below the surface, and the roots 
had been not “ planted ” but “ buried.” 
Sometimes we get dwarfs sent us which have been budded too high, 
'the union being 2 or 3 above the roots. If on Manetti I should consider 
-such a plant worthless. A Rose on a long leg of Manetti could only be 
planted horizontally, and is practically of no use. If on the Briar, and 
it be determined to try it, I would not attempt to cover the. union of 
Rose and stock, but plant the roots at a proper depth and let it take its 
■chance. It may do well, though it has not as good an opportunity as it 
would have had if budded lower. 
In planting Roses separately, or filling up gaps, it must .be remem¬ 
bered that the freshly disturbed soil will sink, especially if the hole 
anade be deep, or much manure has been added, and that the plant will 
■sink with the 6oil; an allowance of half an inch at least should be 
made for this. In a general way I should consider 3 inches to be 
•deep enough for any Rose roots ; and indeed I have always found that, 
FIO. 50.—TRIDAX UICjLOK ROSEA. 
family in which the flower heads are of some other tint. The Zinnias 
and the Asters afford some of the best known examples of the diversely 
coloured Composite ; but the plant to which attention is called in the 
woodcut (fig. 50) and this note, is by no means familiar in gardens. At 
Kew this year it has been very attractive, and it evidently is worthy of a 
place with other border plants from the great western Continent. The 
