456 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Nuvember 15, 1888. 
also most suitable where either large wall trained or pyramid trees are 
required. The dwarfing or Quince stock should be named when order¬ 
ing trees that are required to bear quickly and not cover much space or 
•occupy much ground. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — These succeed only on very sunny 
■walls. Good Peaches given in their successional order are Early 
Alexander, Hale’s Early, Early Rivers, Rivers’ Early York, Ur. Hogg, 
Grosse Mignonne, Royal George, Bellegarde, Alexandra Noblesse, Bar¬ 
rington, Walburton Admirable, and Sea Eagle. Salwey is the latest of 
all, but is rarely fit to eat. Nectarines often fail where Peaches succeed 
well. The following ai'e worthy of a trial, these being given somewhat 
in their order of ripening :—Advance, Lord Napier, Stanwick Elruge, 
Balgowan, Elruge, Yiolette Iliitive, Humboldt, and Victoria. 
Apricots. —These also require the shelter and heat of sunny walls, 
•or those of nearly or quite southern aspect, and on some soils they can- 
mot be induced to thrive. The most reliable are Early Moorpark, Large 
Early Breda, Frognrore Early, Hemskerk, Shipley’s, and Moorpark. The 
last named is the best of all as far as quality is concerned, but is most 
liable to gumming or sudden disease of branches. 
Cherries. —The following varieties are suitable for sunny walls : — 
Knight’s Early Black, Early Rivers, Black Tartarian, Elton, May Duke, 
Governor Wood, and Royal Duke ; for cooler sites, Bigarreau, Florence, 
.and Late Duke ; and for the coolest positions on north walls, Morello, 
Kentish, and Late Duke. For orchard standards or as pyramids in the 
.open garden. Early Rivers, Adams’ Crown, Elton, Frogmore Bigarreau, 
'Governor Wood, Amber or Kentish Bigarreau, Large French Bigarreau, 
Late Duke, Bigarreau Napoleon, Black Tartarian, Morello, Kentish, and 
Flemish. 
Plums. —For wall culture some of the best are Morocco, Early 
^Orleans, Green Gage, Kirke’s, Jefferson’s, Reine Claude, Guthrie’s Late 
Green, Transparent Gage, Coe’s Golden Drop, and Ickworth Imperatrice. 
The following are suitable for pyramids or standards :—Early Rivers, 
Early Orleans, the Sultan, Victoria, Gisborne’s, Goliath, the Czar, 
Prince Englebert, Pond's Seedling, Green Gage, Purple Gage, Dry's 
Heedling, Winesour, and Autumn Compote. 
Various Fruits.— Medlars are very prolific, and ripen at a time 
when there is only a limited variety of fruit available for dessert. They 
succeed best as half standards, being very difficult to train as pyramids. 
S’he Dutch produces the largest fruit, but the Nottingham is the most 
prolific and best as regards quality. A tree of the Black Mulberry 
would succeed well on most lawns, and yield large quantities of fruit, 
ft may be grown as a bush or pyramid, but standards are the best in 
every respect. Of Grapes the common White Sweetwater or Royal 
Muscadine is the most reliable, and the old Black Cluster also frequently 
'.ripens well in sunny positions. In the most favoured southern dis¬ 
tricts the Black Hamburgh and Miller’s Burgundy may be tried. Figs 
also require plenty of sunshine and heat. The hardiest and most pro¬ 
lific are Brown Turkey, Black Ischia, and White Marseilles. The most 
prolific Quince is known as the Pear-shaped, Portugal being a shy 
bearer ; the fruit, however, are large and excellent in quality. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Calceolarias. —Plants in 5 and 6-inch pots may be placed at once 
into 7 and 8-inch pots, and in these they should make large specimens and 
flower early in the season. Smaller plants may be repotted as they 
need root room. It is a mistake to allow them to become pot-bound 
"hefore placing them into larger pots. Once check them by this cause, and 
the plants never afterwards grow with the same freedom and vi our. 
Do not place the plants on dry shelves, but stand them or gravel or 
ashes ; they enjoy standing on material that is cool and moist. These 
plants are quickly devoured by aphides if grown on a dry open stage. 
Use for a compost good fibry loam three parts, the other part being 
composed of sand and leaf soil. To this a little soot may be added, 
;aad one-seventh of decayed manure. Press the soil moderately firm 
into the pots. Remove the small leaves at the base of the plants, so 
that they can be potted moderately deep. These plants root freely from 
the stem. 
Cinerarias. —The earliest plants are very liable to be attacked by 
aphides now that they are developing their flower stems and buds. 
Fumigate gently with tobacco smoke, but be careful that the foliage 
is dry, but damp the stage and floor of the house before fumigating, as 
this assists in keeping the smoke towards the bottom of the structure. 
Give these plants clear sweet water every time supplies are needed. 
The next plants may be subjected to the same treatment. Place sturdy 
plants into 5-inch pots for spring flowering, and the latest in 60's for 
potting on again early in January. 
Marguerites. —Give large plants that were lifted a light airy place 
until they are thoroughly established. They will then flower freely 
enough if placed in a temperature that ranges about 50° at night. 
With a little care and attention these plants will flower throughout the 
winter. Young plants in 5-inch pots for spring flowering should be kept 
close to the glass in a perfectly cool structure. Keep the shoots pinched 
to induce the plants to branch freely. Damp and heat are the two 
greatest enemies these plants have to contend against. If any of the 
plants are infested with a small grub in the leaves, the only cure is 
to pick off every infested leaf and burn them. 
Double Primulas. —Water these carefully, and keep in a moderately 
dry atmosphere where the temperature can range from 50° to 55°. It 
Is safer to keep the plants on the dry side than to overwater them. The 
soil should be kept as near as possible in an intermediate state for 
moisture. Avoid irregularities in this matter, and damping at the collar 
will be reduced to a minimum. 
Shiglc Varieties .—Those that are growing will thrive in a cool house. 
They will keep and do better on shelves than on a damp stage. The 
same care should be exercised in watering as advised for double 
varieties. Plants in flower should have a temperature of 50° to 5.>°, 
according to the weather, in a cool rather moist atmosphere ; the flowers 
are very liable to be injured by damp. On all favourable occasions open 
the ventilators freely, and apply a little fire heat at the same time. 
Fuchsias .—The plants that went to rest first may be pruned and 
arranged in an early vinery or Peach house ready for starting. Do not 
water them before they show signs of breaking. The moisture in the 
atmosphere through syringing the Yines will be ample at first. Give 
them a little tepid water after they have commenced breaking, and when 
they have well started into growth shake the old soil from them and 
repot in fresh. Keep young plants in 60’s close to the glass. Do not 
encourage them to grow, merely keep them moving slowly. If growth 
is encouraged now they will soon iun up tall and weakly, and good well 
furnished plants afterwards in 5-inch pots cannot be produced. 
Carinas .—Remove decaying stems from plants that have been stored 
away, and keep them dry and at rest for another month. Where 
decoration is done largely in dwelling houses, and foliage plants are 
appreciated, Cannas will be found invaluable ; they stand well, are 
quickly increased, as well as restored again to health. 
Lantanas .—Keep these in a cool moderately dry place until they are 
at rest, when water may be withheld for a time. Give them the same 
treatment in this respect as Fuchsias. Keep young plants rooted in 
August in a temperature of 50”. If grown close to the glass and the 
shoots pinched from time to time they will be busby little plants ready 
for 5-inch pots early in the new year, and will make useful flowering 
plants for the conservatory. 
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APICULTURAL NOTES. 
THE LONG IDEA HIVE. 
Our friend “ Lana’kshire ” is sure one fault in this hive 
consists in the combs being parallel to the entrance, which he 
implies is contrary to Nature. This matter of placing frames I 
have carefully studied for a long time, as I particularly wished to 
be sure, and I am positive—allowing of course that I may be 
mistaken after all—that it does not make the least difference 
which way the combs run. But there is one fact I have never 
seen anyone notice—viz., when the bees are left to themselves 
they never build the front comb to the bottom of the hive, at least 
in front of the entrance, nor the second comb either, though it is 
lower than the first ; thus the bees naturally provide for that free 
ventilation so much insisted on by the ‘'right-angled” advocates. 
It is when the front combs are put to the back, reversing the 
natural position, that the evils of crossway combs are developed ; 
let them remain in their proper place and no difference will be 
noted. 
WHICH WAY DO BEES NATURALLY BUILD THEIR COMBS? 
When guides or foundation are given them they have no choice, 
but one writer, who professes to be an authority, has been insisting 
that if bees are left to themselves in a skep without any guides, 
the floorboard of which is either level or inclined from the bac v , 
the bees will always build their combs at right angles to the 
entrance. He also says, when this is not the case the floorboard 
will be found inclined from one side to the other. On this basis 
he argues that right-angled combs are the natural position. Very 
poor logic this, anyway about. When a hive is tilted up the hive 
walls are not vertical, and as Nature teaches bees to economise 
every little space, there is only one way in which they can do it 
and leave the hive walls parallel with the face of their combs ; and 
the said “ authority ” must know this, by his reference to the 
combs being in the direction to the pitch of the floorboard. Now, 
as a matter of fact, based on careful experiment as well as obser¬ 
vations nude on some thousands of skeps, if a hive is set perfectly 
level, with avails perfectly vertica', in a position where the sun can 
shine equally on three sides, and no guide or starter is given, the 
bees are just as likely to build their combs in any direction, but if 
the sun is only suffered to shine on that side the entrance is, then, 
in nearly every instance, the combs will be built parallel to the 
