4 64 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ NoTember 22, 188?» 
hotbeds are made for them in cold frames of the same description as 
for rooting them, they are potted singly and plunged. They become 
established by the time the beds cool down, which avoids checking the 
young plants. Weak plants, as well as those for trained standards, are 
potted on and encouraged by a little bottom heat. Under this treatment 
they gain strength and make rapid progress. The object to be attained 
is strong but sturdy growth from the time the plants are hardened to 
cool frame treatment to the time they are placed outside in May. This 
is achieved by giving abundance of air and the removal of the lights 
as the season advances when the weather is favourable. The weather 
must guide the cultivator whether he is to place the plants outside 
early in May or towards the end of that month. A sheltered spot 
should be found for them, or a temporary protection should be given to 
them in case of late frosts or cold cutting winds. Every care, however, 
must be taken of them at this stage, for they are easily injured. I have 
seen the leaves blown off them, and plants subjected to such cruel 
treatment seldom recover. 
POTTING. 
Before potting is commenced we place in the position the plants 
are intended to occupy, old boards, 1 yard apart, on which we stand 
the plants, pot to pot, until July, when they are placed 6 to 9 inches 
apart, according to the number of shoots that the plants are allowed 
to carry. The plants are placed in their flowering pots during May 
as they are turned outside. We have found 9 and 10-inch pots most 
suitable, and if larger are used two plants may be placed in them with 
good results. In draining the pots oyster shells are preferred to crocks! 
whole ones at the base, and for the top they are broken up moderately 
fine. Over this a good pinch of soot is scattered to keep out worms 
and act as a stimulant to the plant. In potting, the soil that I shall 
recommend should be pressed firmly into the pots. When potting is 
finished room should be left in the pot for at least the addition of 
2 inches of soil. 
THE SOIL. 
We use turf green from the field chopped about the size of an egg 
To this is added one 8-inch potful of soot, the same quantity of pounded 
oyster shells, the same quantity of bonemeal, and a small quantity of 
leaf mould to each barrowful of sod. 
THE MAT BUD. 
There appears to be a good deal of misconception about the May 
bud. In my opinion it is the result of a check or early striking, and 
I scarcely remember an example of this when the old stools have been 
cared for and the plants struck at the time suggested. My advice is 
Avoid this bud. In nine cases out of ten it throws the bud that should 
appear from the middle of July wrong. If the plants show this tendency 
help them out of it as quickly as possible by removing the points of 
the plants, and select three or four shoots to carry one bloom each. In 
the case of doubtful kinds that occasionally go blind, stop them in May 
and run up five or six shoots, and when you have secured the right time 
buds and observe them swelling, thin out the shoots to three or four. 
If we do not stop them we always run up more shoots than we intend 
to retain—that is, from the natural break in July. We stop some and 
grow others without, and then seldom fail to secure a good flower at the 
time it is wanted. 
FEEDING. 
We feed very little before the bud is secured. What we are in the 
habit of using is liquid from the farmyard diluted with water and a 
little soot dusted on the surface of the soil during showery weather. A 
few years ago we had in the garden a cesspool, the contents of which 
liberally diluted with water I found an invaluable food for the Chrysan¬ 
themum. To those who have not used it my advice is give it a trial. At 
one time we had practically only natural liquids, but nowadays we can 
make liquid from such a variety of special manures, or dust them on the 
surface of the soil, and niost if not all of them are useful for a change. 
TAKING THE BUD. 
I have said I am a little later than most growers in securing buds. 
For the incurved I do not care to take them before the last week in 
August, or the first three weeks in September, though some of the 
Japanese might be taken earlier. The aim of the cultivator should be 
to secure them during the latter dates. When plants have been pinched 
in their earlier stages some of the shoots will show before others, although 
on the same plant. This can be regulated to a very large extent in July ; 
for instance, if they show early in that month allow them to grow on 
until the middle of that month. They must then be pushed to make 
the next growth by clearing out all lateral growths from the axils of the 
leaves. At this stage examine the remaining shoots on the plant, and if 
small growths have commenced showing in the axils of the le ves rest 
assured that a bud is forming. My plan is to clear out all growths as its 
the preceding 'case, take out the point of the plant, and do for it what 
it would otherwise do for itself. But if left alone it would) some in too 
late to be of service for showing. 
STAKING AND TYING. 
This may be passed over, for nearly each cultivator' has a slightly 
different method, and all answer the purpose, as long as the plants are not 
broken and each shoot is secured separately, so that light and air cam 
reach them on all sides. One other matter of importance is, that we 
allow all the shoots of our plants to sway loose 18 inches above the tie,, 
which saves many points from breaking. Some say birds will break the 
shoots if they alight upon them, but in over twenty years I have 
observed a solitary robin on these plants, and the shoot it rested on did 
not break. It is mostly caused by wind and rain, when the plants are 
tied too near the top. 
RIPENING THE WOOD. 
I do not attach much importance to this ; all that I have ever found 
to be necessary is to stand the plants sufficiently far apart so that 
light and air can play all round them. The ripening of the wood 
depends largely upon the time the bud is taken. Kipening commences 
to take place rapidly after bud formation and the leaves below it have 
fully expanded. If the buds are taken too early in August the wood 
in some seasons ripens too much, and the result is a flat flower and a' 
multitude of narrow petals. Over-ripened wood is, in my opinion, the 
cause of smaller flowers in the south, and narrower 'petals than we are. 
in the habit of producing. 
TOP-DRESSING. 
I advised room in the pots for 2 inches of soil, and this space is 
to be filled up with rich material as a top-dressing for the plants. 
This is an important matter. It keeps the roots in full activity, and 
they are therefore capable of taking up food much more freely than 
they could possibly do if the roots became sluggish. We top-dress to 
the extent of exceeding the limit of the pot by placing pieces of turf 
above the rim. The soil when the flowers are expanding should be 
full of active roots. This keeps the lower foliage in a healthy con¬ 
dition to the last. Here lies the secret of large flowers possessing depth,, 
solidity, and breadth of petal. 
AFTER HOUSING. 
Now begins one of the most critical periods in the plant’s life, and many 
plants go wrong from the day they are housed. Many a young grower 
has had all that could be desired in the way of plants, and evil results, 
have followed a continuation of the treatment the plants received out¬ 
side. The same strong feeding must not be continued for a time. The 
plants sulk after losing what they delight in—namely, night dews. If 
bright weather continues, considerably more moisture is evaporated from- 
the foliage, and any failure in making up for these deficiencies will prove 
detrimental to the plants. Syringe them thoroughly two or three times 
a day, according to the weather. When they are accustomed to their 
new quarters we feed again on the same principle as before housing,, 
and continue to do so until the flowers are ready for cutting. We 
fumigate with tobacco smoke after housing, for neither plants or flowers 
will thrive if fly exist upon them. 
I shall pass over the subject of dressing, for enough has been written) 
about it, in fact sufficient to frighten a young beginner. My advice is 
grow the flower fully out, as however good the dresser may be he cannot, 
m: ke a good bloom out of a bad one. 
KEEPING THE BLOOMS. 
After they are expanded, put them into a dark outhouse as dry as 
possible. Once I had occasion to place some plants in a certain shed, 
and there was some lime in a corner that was just falling. This I had 
always thought assisted in keeping them by absorbing the moisture in 
the atmosphere. The flowers kept three weeks, and were staged in good 
condition afterwards. I give this for what it is worth, and think it well 
worth trying. My last advice is, beware of fogs if real success is to be 
attained, for in one night they will undo the work of the whole season. 
Discussion being invited by the Chairman, with an intimation that 
questions might be asked and opinions freely expressed either for or 
against propositions advanced, each giving credit to the other for the 
best of motives, even if opinions differed, as all were engaged in the 
common object of acquiring knowledge on points in connection with 
Chrysanthemum culture— 
Mr. Ledgeb asked if Mr. Tunnington could explain the reason why 
some plants of the same variety differed in the time of showing crown 
buds ; and why some plants should grow through them, so to say, not 
