November 22, 1888. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
465 
producing crown buds, but pushing on to the terminals. The questioner 
intimated that the latest plants were struck in January. 
Mr. Tunnington replied that if some of the plants were topped in 
May by nipping out the points, shoots would be certain to be produced 
•showing crown buds at the right time. He suspected the plants were 
•struck too soon, and some of them received a check. The great point 
was to keep them steadily growing under the best conditions from start 
to finish. 
Mr. Bardxey said he never knew plants fail to produce crown buds, 
though they might form at the wrong time, and even not be seen. If 
they did not appear at all he should conclude the growth was too soft 
Tor their formation. 
Mr. Parkes, Derby, desired more particulars on the cutting-down 
system, which he understood was advised by the reader of the paper. 
Mr. Tdxningtox said he neither practised nor advised cutting down 
.•as it is generally understood for the production of the finest blooms ; 
topping was a very different thing for assisting the plants when it was 
•seen they were forming buds too soon, while the next might be too late 
if the plants were allowed to lose time in the first bud formation. 
Mr. Bardxey explained that in topping, as practised by Mr. 
Tunnington, shoots differing in length resulted, and buds were formed at 
•different times, those that were right being set, the others regarded as 
•surplus and removed for concentrating the resources of the plant to the 
-development of the blooms. 
Mr. Falconer Jameson asked if buds did not form sometimes that 
were too small to be set or taken ? 
Mr. Tunnington answered that might be so, but in such a case he 
thought the plants must be weak, and the best plan would be to take out 
the point and push them on to the next bud, and time would be gained, 
•not lost, by the pinching. 
Mr. Parkes wished to have more information about “ feeding ” 
Before the buds formed, as he did not see how to gain strength of plant 
•without the use of stimulants sooner than was advised. Mr. Ledger 
also said he found it necessary to apply stimulants before the final 
potting. 
Mr. Tunnington in reply reminded the first named inquirer of the 
•use of freshly cut turves for potting, and pointed out the steady decay 
cf the grass in the soil afforded the plants all the support they needed 
till the buds were taken, and Mr. Ledger, he said, raised his plants too 
•soon, and allowed them to get root-bound ; if he would strike strong 
healthy cuttings later and grow the plants without any check he would 
■succeed in his object. Mr. Tunnington further observed that in 
■“ taking ” the buds it was often desirable to remove the surrounding 
•shoots by degrees, allowing one to extend somewhat for taking the sap 
and “ easing ” the bud, or the whole force of a vigorous plant driven 
into the bud might spoil it or lead to the production of a malformed 
•bloom. 
Mr. Tunnington’s paper, and his prompt and clear replies to the 
■various questions gave great satisfaction to the meeting. 
Mr. E. Molyneux was then desired to read the following paper :— 
INFLUENCE OF WOOD RIPENING ON BUDS AND 
BLOOMS. 
The ripening of the wood of Chrysanthemums is a very important 
matter in the growth of these plants for the production of high-class 
Blooms ; indeed, without perfectly ripened wood it is impossible to have 
‘blooms of the finest quality in all respects. Let it be understood that 
what I mean by perfectly ripened wood, is wood that is ripened suffi¬ 
ciently by natural means as the result of correct treatment throughout, 
Bun is essential for the maturation of plants in all stages of their 
growth ; but in some seasons and districts there may be too much of it, 
.•and in others not enough, and we must make the best of both circum- 
■stances. Wood-ripening does not consist in merely hardening the wood, 
But storing it with nutriment for the blooms. Forcing the ripening, so 
do say, by drought or in other ways, contracts the sap vessels unduly, 
impeding the free flow of nourishment for the blooms at a critical 
time, and those persons who practise such methods in cultivation act 
erroneously and fail to produce the best blooms. 
Seasons vary so much that the locality in which growers reside is a 
very important factor in the production of good or bad blooms. 
Circumstances occur over which cultivators have no control, which 
prevent them showing the ability they may be admitted to possess. 
"They cannot, for instance, excel during a cold wet summer in a low 
damp district. The higher and drier the locality the harder the wood 
.and the greater the disposition of the plants to set buds prematurely. 
This is a difficulty some have to contend with, myself among the number. 
Where buds are persistently formed long before the time we wish to see 
them much valuable time is lost in the growth of the plants in their 
various stages during the time the buds are forming. Moreover, high 
■and dry localities predispose to narrow petals, and rather small but solid 
blooms ; while reverse conditions are promotive of broader petals and 
larger blooms. Where the locality is high the air, although much 
rain may be registered, is drier than in the lowlands, and it is this 
•dry air that precipitates bud formation that gives so much trouble to 
some growers. The proper time to “ take ” buds of some varieties is 
upset altogether under such conditions. They form either too early or 
too late for producing the finest blooms. 
Then the question of dew is important. During a hot and dry 
summer, as in 1887, the absence of dews in high-lying districts is much 
felt. Dew invigorates, and its scarcity or absence has been the cause 
of many small blooms. We can regulate and control moisture in the 
soil, but have practically no power over it in the atmosphere. We may 
do our best and may do some good, but after all the most we can do 
is but little in providing compensation for what we may consider the 
shortcomings of Nature. » 
When the growth of plants is soft and gross, the latter particularly, 
and the wood pale green instead of brown in colour, a want of ripeness 
is evident. Such plants produce blooms large in diameter, but they are 
usually lacking in depth and solidity of the petals. This is more 
noticeable in the incurved section than in the Japanese family. Blooms 
which are composed of extra broad florets are seldom if ever as solid as 
medium sized blooms having narrower petals ; neither can the former 
be considered of such high quality as those deeper in build and conse¬ 
quently more firm and more likely to stand fresh a longer time. Blooms 
having unusually broad florets often show decided roughness and irregu¬ 
larity, and the dresser is not able to present such blooms in the same 
highly finished condition as when the petals are narrower and the blooms 
more solid. 
The present season is considered to have been a bad one for the 
growth of large high class blooms, especially in the incurved section. 
This is borne out by the examples which have been staged at various ex¬ 
hibitions. It cannot be said they have been of the highest quality, or as 
they have, been shown in some past seasons. Some stands have been 
extra heavy in the size of the blooms, owing to the immense breadth 
of their florets, but many of the blooms lacked depth in proportion 
with diameter, consequently they were not so solid as they would have 
been had the blooms been deeper in proportion to their breadth. After 
a summer like the past one, we expect to see large blooms which lack 
solidity and closeness of the petals—a condition which is owing mainly 
to the unripened state of the wood. I am not in favour of extra large 
blooms of the incurved section, which are only large in one way— 
diameter, for the reasons stated—they lack depth and solidity. My idea 
of an incurved bloom is one not great in diameter alone but deep 
and firm in build, consequently of a better shape. Such blooms are 
never seen with extra broad petals, but they carry what is known as a 
good “shoulder,” being rather more orange shaped. Such blooms as I 
have described are the result of perfectly ripened wood and are seldom 
met with after a season like the past. Where prizes are offered for the 
premier incurved bloom in a show, this honour generally falls to a 
specimen of the character indicated, and not to a flower which has 
merely two points in its favour—extra width of bloom and broadness 
of florets. Blooms which are generally chosen for this honour are 
usually remarkable for solidity and high finish, which two latter 
qualities cannot be obtained from blooms which have extra broad and 
thin florets. The ripene 1 character of the wood is the all-important 
factor in the production of blooms of the highest possible standard of 
excellence, and the complete maturation we seek is obtained, as far as 
seasons allo.v, by careful treatment from the beginning. 
The method of culture I advise as the most likely to obtain the de¬ 
sired end is that of growing the plants from the first stage on to the 
culminating point in a regular steady manner, not by starts and stops 
such as applying water regularly for a time, then neglecting the plants 
for a few days. Regular attention to potting is important, or before 
they become so root-bound many roots must be broken in the process, 
causing a check to the steady progressive growth that is so desirable in 
plants for producing the finest blooms. Crowding the plants in their 
younger stages of growth is most hurtful, and antagonistic to the de¬ 
velopment of vigorous wood and foliage. Sufficient space should always 
be allowed the plants. When in their summer quarters they should be 
arranged in an open position where the sun can shine directly on them, 
but the position should be protected from north, east, and south-westeily 
winds, which are often so destructive early in the season when the 
plants are first placed out of doors. Many plants have been so injured 
by a loss of their lower leaves during May, that they have never re¬ 
covered the desired strength. South-westerly winds, which are pre¬ 
valent during the end of August and the early part of September, often 
do much damage to the buds and leaves where the plan-s are much ex¬ 
posed. The flower buds and their peduncles are at that time so tender 
that the skin may be much injured by being whipped about, so to 
speak, that a check occurs to the development of the blooms owing to 
the tissues being broken, thus checking the full and regular flow of sap. 
Some growers set too much store on plants with extra thick stems 
