November 22, l c 88 ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
479 
appear to bear this treatment without direct injury. The plant itself 
appears capable of bearing many hardships before it finally succumbs, 
but during active growth or the production of its inflorescence it must 
have brisk heat, or else it fails to develope properly. Be careful also not 
to overwater it. While growing liberal supplies are necessary, but 
during the present time water must he applied with great care. The 
roots perish quickly in wet soil and a low temperature. After flowering 
the plant should be kept on the dry side until it is again started into 
growth. 
Anthnrium Sehertzerianum .— Plants that have completed their 
growth should be removed from the stove to an intermediate temperature. 
While in this position give them less water at their roots. Plants that 
are still growing should be encouraged to complete their growth in the 
stove, when they will be benefited by a lower temperature. A. ferrier- 
ense and A. Andreanum should be encouraged to grow by keeping them 
in the stove, they will produce their bright flowers throughout the 
winter and prove attractive either in a cut state or for the ornamentation 
of this structure. These varieties will need less water, but be careful 
not to allow them to suffer by an insufficient supply. 
Alocasias. —These will need less water at their roots than has been 
necessary up to the present time, but on no account allow them to 
become dust dry, which is injurious, and would soon result in the 
destruction of their beautiful foliage. Watch for red spider now that 
the supply of moisture has been diminished. If the plants stand in a 
rather dry position it often proves troublesome. The best means of 
keeping the plants free is to sponge their leaves occasionally with a 
weak solution of softsoap and water, or a weak solution of any favourite 
insecticide. 
AEschynautilus. —Where these plants are grown suspended in baskets 
from the roof of the stove they should be thoroughly cleaned. Much 
injury is often done if cleaning is delayed until their flower buds are 
visible. All the varieties are subject to mealy bug, and this must be 
eradicated from them if they are to display their full beauty. Do not 
overwater them from the present time ; in fact, they are better kept on 
the dry side, or else they will fail to grow satisfactorily again in spring. 
Aplielandra aurantiaca Iloezli. —Although useless for cutting pur¬ 
poses this is a charming plant when well grown, either for the front of 
the stove or for associating with warm Orchids during the time it is in 
flower. It is perhaps most effective in the latter position. This plant 
enjoys heat and moisture, especially during the season of growth, but 
after flowering keep it rather dry until cut back and started again 
into growth. The usual practice is to increase the stock by cuttings, 
but the most vigorous plants are raised from seed. Seed is readily 
saved if a few plants are reserved for the purpose and kept during 
flowering in a slightly drier atmosphere. Some of the latest plants to 
flower should be reserved for this purpose. Plants that will flower 
towards the end of January if well cared for are certain to seed freely 
enough. Watch for thrips, which is a great enemy to this plant. 
Eranthemum Andersoni. —Few plants are more beautiful with their 
delicately spotted Orchid-like spikes of flowers when well grown ; they 
are most effective when grown in 60’s with one shoot only. Be careful 
to keep the plants free from brown scale and thrip ; keep them moderately 
near the glass in a temperature of 55° to 60°. While in flower the plant 
is at home in warm conservatories, and if slightly elevated above 
surrounding objects shows itself to advantage. It is also very useful for 
small vases in rooms, and although it does not last long in such positions 
dwarf well-furnished plants have a choice appearance and add variety 
to the usual class of plants employed in such positions. 
Cissus discolor. —This is often grown for its beautifully marked 
foliage, which can be used for such a variety of decorative purposes. 
Where this is the case it is advisable to have two plants and encourage 
one to growth throughout the winter, while the other can be dried off 
and rested. Keep plants going to rest rather dry until their foliage 
naturally ripens, when it will be necessary to prune the shoots well 
back. 
1—771- 
i 
Ihe bee-keeper. 
NOTES ON BEES. 
THE PECULIARITIES OF THE SEASON. 
Since the cold wet summer ended we enjoyed really fine 
weather with but two intervals of a few days until the 16th 
November, when one of the severest storms raged that we have 
ever experienced, at lesCSt so far as can be judged by the amount 
of damage done. We had 7° Fahrenheit of frost early in October, 
the thermometer standing at 25° on the morning of the 7th, but 
it did little or no damage to flowers. The Mignonette is as pretty 
while I write as it was at the beginning of August. Lilium 
auratum bloomed until the end of October, but not a Gladiolus 
flowered ; and Sweet Peas, although growing freely, did not give 
more than a dozen blooms. ITelianthus multiflorus flore pleno is 
still good with me. Erigerons and Doronicums are also attractive, 
while the double blue Hepaticas, double and single Primroses, and 
Polyanthuses have been blooming for the last two months. 
Pyrethrums, from which we expect many autumn flowers, did not 
grow after the first bloom was past, and notwithstanding the fine- 
weather during September and October, Strawberry plants showed 
but little growth. Fruit trees and bushes of all kinds lost their 
leaves early, and it is to be hoped that the thickly set buds on 
short growths will be perfected and bear much fruit in 1889. With 
the exception of a few days’ c )ld east wind in November the- 
thermometer was never below 32°, and once only at that. Tho 
mean temperature during the end of October was as high as 55° 
on several occasions, and one day it varied only 2° in twenty- 
four hours, being 48° at night and 50° during the day. Bees carried 
pollen well up to the 15th November. Altogether it has been a 
peculiar season, and untoward as it has been, many bee-keepers- 
have secured an average return of honey— i.e., those who managed 
their hives on the lines so frequently advocated in these pages. 
VARIOUS ITEMS. 
I have read with much interest “ A Hallamshire Bee-keeper’s ’ r 
remarks at pages 457-58, and can endorse much of what he says, 
but he is somewhat mistaken in my opinion regarding the “ long 
idea hive.” I have many faults to find with it. I noted these in 
an article several years ago, and still maintain that combs paralk p 
to the entrance are a great mistake, and that it is contrary to the 
nature of bees to have them so. 
In regard to taking such hives to the Heather, I stated fact 1 ', 
leaving your bee-keeping readers to judge for themselves which 
hive was the one most to be relied upon. Both sorts of hives had 
combs of the current year, and, as is the case in many instances, 
they had to be carted over a rough road, which may make all the 
difference between his case and ours. My cheap hive is the ideal 
one of “A Hallamshire Bee-keeper.” As some of your reade:s 
may wish to build up a few of these during the winter months, the 
following will give an idea of what is wanted. As is already 
known, the hive proper consists of three or four body-boxes, 
64 inches deep, and 14 inches square, inside measure. The stand 
is of the same size, but only 4 inches deep, with angled iron feet. 
8 inches over all. The alighting board is either hinged or held by 
two wire dowels, so that in transit it can be removed or folded up so aa 
to occupy little space. The top is covered with perforated zinc, five 
holes to the inch. The bottom has a close-fitting shutter resting upoir 
fillets, and a small opening is left in the centre of this shutter, which 
is again covered with a sliding shutter, stopping itself against a screw. 
This can be opened and closed in an instant, as also can the doorway. 
Every division, including the stand, is hinged at the back with back- 
flap hinges, and fastened at the front or sides with a proper hook or 
clamp of some sort. When sections are used and suspended to 
top bars, which is decidedly the best way to have and to work 
sections, the division holding these is also hinged, and for con¬ 
venience sake is the same in every way as the body boxes. The 
first thing wanted when the hive is so arranged is a clamp (one does- 
for the apiary) made from stout hoopings the width of the hive,, 
with the ends turned down to a right angle from 2 to 3 inches, and 
a slot in each end, so that when a screw-nail is put in at each end 
when the clamp is held in its proper place, it will slide out and in 
easily. This will prevent the frames or sections falling out. To 
make the clamp more rigid screw a fillet of wood to its under 
side. When any manipulation i3 desired, or inspection wanted, 
undo the front hooks and turn the division back. If it be in 
sections the whole of them can be seen at a glance, and their state 
will advise the bee-keeper to proper action. The body divisions are 
inspected in the same manner, care always being taken that bees , 
are not killed on letting down the division. A little carbolic acid 
will prevent any bees being killed if properly applied to the edges. 
When cutting out royal cells, or searching for the queen, begin at- 
the bottom box first and work upwards. A stool with a few blocks 
of wood at hand will be found useful in all manipulations of this 
sort. 
I quite agree with “A Hallamshire Bee-keeper” anent bees- 
