December , 1888. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
525 
which, the insect can fly away to fresh fiekls and pastures new. Thcse- 
winged aphides produced during the summer are always females. When 
two or three days old they take their flight to found new colonies. 
After the fourth generation, no further winged females are produced. 
Towards the end of autumn the generations, usually eleven in 
number, approach their close, and the last brood produces a certain 
number of winged males, who fly off in search of partners. Reproduc¬ 
tion then follows its normal course. The females, after marriage, give 
birth to no more living larvae and produce only eggs. These remain 
during the winter protected by impervious shells from the cold, which 
would destroy the soft larvae. In the spring these are hatched, pro¬ 
ducing larvae as already described, who in their turn repeat the 
viviparous generations. 
This is a brief outline of the life-history of the aphis family, which 
contains many species, many of them only too well known to most of us, 
like the Hop-fly (Aphis humuli). There are various species peculiar to 
certain fruits and plants. Indeed, each fruit seems to have its special 
aphis. Thus we have the Apple aphis (A. mali), the Plum aphis (.A. 
pruni), the Currant aphis (Rhopalosiphum ribis), and many others. Mr. 
Whitehead writes of the Apple aphis :— 
“ The Apple aphis, or green fly (by which appellation it is better 
known), derives its food solely from the juice of the leaves and blossoms. 
It makes its appearance as soon as the buds begin to swell and the leaves 
show signs of coming forth, and it follows up the blossoms from their 
earliest development. The aphis attacks the blossoms, being specially 
attracted by their saccharine qualities, and either prevents the process 
of fructification or so besets the tiny fruits that, weakened by the 
extraction of their juices and begummed with viscous honeydew, they 
are unable to set properly. The fruit that perchance survives rarely 
attains to full size, shape, or quality. As the leaves come out, their 
under surfaces are occupied by the aphis, and soon curl up, get black, 
and fall off, leaving the trees bare, and emitting a sickly smell from all 
sides.”— (Journal of Microscopy .) 
(To be continued.) 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs,— Earliest-forced Trees in Pots. —The trees in houses closed in 
November with fermenting materials in the pits will now or soon be 
showing growth by the swelling of the terminal buds. The roots also 
that were cut back will under the influence of genial heat be sending 
forth fresh feeders through the fresh compost placed about the pots. 
When this is the case the fermenting materials should be examined, and 
if the heat does not exceed 75° they may be trodden down round the 
pedestals and bases of the pots, preparatory to the introduction of a 
fresh supply from the reserve heap, which should be under a roof of 
some kind, as the heating and manurial value is soon lost by exposure to 
drenching rains. At any rate, all material used for bottom heat or 
plunging purposes must be properly worked and warmed before being 
taken in. Take care that the heat about the pots does not exceed 70° to 
75°. The heat and moisture given off by the fermenting materials will 
greatly facilitate forcing operations by softening and reducing the 
amount of fire heat. On cold nights the temperature should fall to 50°, 
and 55° by artificial means in the daytime will be sufficient, with a rise 
of 10° from sun heat. Syringe the trees and walls with tepid water on 
fine mornings and again early in the afternoon, or about 2 P.M., but 
with the moisture arising from the fermenting materials thei'e will 
rarely be need of more until the trees begin to push fresh foliage. Keep 
the glass clean and free from condensed moisture by ventilating on all 
favourable occasions. 
Succession Houses. —If the pruning is still in arrears lose no time in 
getting the work finished. Cut back or entirely remove all old spurs, 
and thin out the least promising shoots that have reached the extremity 
of the trellis to make room for free growth and full development of 
wood and foliage. As the Fig delights in heat, moisture, and good living, 
with plenty of light and a free circulation of air, the house should be 
well heated, be light and well ventilated, and generous treatment 
accorded, otherwise it is the most insipid of fruits. Thorough cleanli¬ 
ness is necessary to success, therefoi'e spare no pains in cleansing the 
trees, woodwork, and walls, and paint if necessary. If brown scale has 
been troublesome syringe with petroleum at the rate of a wineglassful 
to three gallons of water, keeping it well mixed with the water whilst 
it is being applied. If applied with a brush it may be used much 
stronger, or at the rate of a wineglass to a gallon of water, at which 
strength it will destroy all insects it comes in contact with. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —Earliest House .—The blossom buds 
will now be swelling. The house having been closed at the middle of 
November the temperature should be slightly increased in the day 
time, especially when the weather is mild or marking 50° outside, and a 
soft wind blowing. Turn on heat in the morning so as to raise the 
temperature to 55°, and allow a rather free circulation of air, and with 
sun the temperature may rise to G0° or 65°, the heat being turned oil 
at night to allow the temperature to fall to between -15° and 50°, and 
on cold nights it may fall 5° lower without any disadvantage. Avoid a 
dry atmosphere, especially from fire heat. Gently syringing the trees is- 
of great benefit. If fermenting materials have been introduced give a 
little extra attention in turning and additions, which will impart activity 
to the surface roots. When the soil is at all dry give a good appli¬ 
cation of tepid water, or if the soil has left the walls, as it sometimes 
does, during the resting period, it should be well rammed down to make 
the water enter by the surface, otherwise it will run off. 
Succession Houses .—Complete the pruning and cleansing in houses 
intended to be closed soon or at the new year. Lay in the wood suffi¬ 
ciently thin to admit of the full development of the foliage, as fine fruit 
of good colour and flavour cannot be obtained when the young wood and 
leaves are deprived of the benefit of light and air. Keep all doors and 
ventilators open in all but actual frost. Even this will not do any harm i 
but structures of this kind are often filled with plants, and in the anxiety 
to save these the lights are frequently closed when they should be open,, 
and imperceptibly, but surely, the buds will swell, so that between 
alternate excitement and its opposite they receive a check, and if the- 
trees do not cast the buds the flowers are weak and set very badly. It 
would be much better to remove the roof-lights altogether and kee{> 
them off until the time arrives for closing the house. No frost will 
injure the trees provided the wood is ripe. 
Cucumbers.— Keep the night temperature steady at 60° to 65°, and 
the day at 70° to 75°, being very careful in the admission of air, though 
a little should be given to clear the glass of condensed moisture and 
admit all the light possible. It is hardly necessary to point to the 
desirability of preventing the temperature being unduly lowered by 
frequently opening the door in severe weather, which may be obviated 
by having the thermometer in such position that it can be seen from 
outside. A mat suspended over the door is also useful in preventing 
an inrush of cold air when the door is opened. Remove all superfluous 
fruits from the plants immediately they show, and tie up all shoots to- 
the trellis as they require it. Encourage vigorous growth, on whicli 
stopping should be moderately practised, otherwise very little stopping 
will be required. Should mildew appear, dust the affected leaves with 
flowers of sulphur and maintain a somewhat dry atmosphere. For red 
spider sponge with softsoapy water, and if green or black aphides attack 
the plants, dust with tobacco powder; or, if fumigation be resorted to, it 
must be done with great care and judgment. 
Prepare some Oak or Beech leaves with a third of stable dung by 
throwing them into a heap and damping if necessary, turning them 
when they have become warmed through outside to inside, and watering; 
if necessary, so as to secure an even and thorough fermentation of the 
materials, with which to make a hotbed at the end of this month or 
beginning of the new year to raise Cucumber and Melon plants from 
seed, and subsequently to make beds for planting them in. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Own-root Poses .—Readers of the Journal of Horticulture will have- 
learnt that to be successful with dwarf Roses these must either be on the 
Briar stock or on their own roots. The latter are preferable in many 
instances as being the least trouble to raise, and those who have a good 
stock of healthy bushes, standard or wall trees, ought to be able to take off 
many dozens or even hundreds of cuttings without injuring their plants 
in any way. There are a few varieties that fail, notably those with 
many thorns, but as a rule the majority will, if the work is properly done, 
strike readily and form good flowering plants during the following, 
summer. The cuttings ought to be put in at once, and the first pro¬ 
ceeding should be to prepare the ground, as the sooner the cuttings are- 
inserted after they are made the greater the probability of their strik¬ 
ing. If they are once allowed to become dry or shrivel in the least, 
failure to strike is almost certain. Preference should be given to a 
good open piece of ground, and the top spit should have a liberal 
addition of old Mushroom bed manure or leaf soil, and either road grit 
or sharp sand. This ought not to be buried with the spade, but should be 
well mixed with the surface soil with the aid of digging forks.^ This- 
should be done only a short time before the cuttings are ready, as it is-of 
importance that t-liese are inserted before the newly moved ground has 
become saturated by rams. It is the long well ripened growths that are 
most suitable for making into cuttings. They should be cut into 1-foot 
lengths, the lower half being cleared of thorns and buds, and the base 
cleanly cut to a joint. Each variety ought to be kept separate and 
labelled. When a good number have been prepared, first trample or 
firm the ground somewhat, and then cut out a narrow trench, as if tor 
laying Box edging, and about G inches deep. Set the cuttings from o to- 
9 inches apart in this, taking care that all are pressed against the bottom, 
return the soil, and well fix it against the cuttings with the foot. Another 
trench may then be cut with the spade from 12 to 15 inches from the 
first, and in this way a good breadth of ground may quickly be covered 
with Rose cuttings. 
Last winter fully one-lialf the cuttings inserted failed to strike, 
owing to the ground being frequently upheaved by frosts, looseness or 
the soil about them being fatal to a good strike. In order to obviate 
this difficulty spread not less than two inches of fine coal ashes or cocoa- 
nut fibre over the surface, and if this does not quite prevent upheava , 
firm the ground with the feet as often as the cuttings are found to be 
loosened. The more vigorous of the Teas and Noisettes may be struck 
in this manner, these including Marcchal Niel, Gloire de Dijon, Madame 
Berard, Catherine Mermet, Souvenir de Paul Neron, bafrano, Homere, 
Madame Lambard, Cdline Forestier, Adam, and bouvenir d un Ami. 
