528 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
I December 8,1888. 
■sections. I have some glass sections now that have been worked two 
years ; they have been frozen down to 20° and heated up to 90°, which 
show no crack and the honey is still clear. 
In his sixth he says, “ We have yet to mention one other serious 
-drawback, common to all glass sections, and that is, the bees are not so 
■willing to enter the super as where only wood is present.” Whether 
this has been a drawback or not with previous attempts to make glass 
sections I will leave for others to discuss ; what concerns me is the 
-assertion that it applies to “ all glass sections,” including, by impli¬ 
cation, all future ones as well. Now all bee-keepers who have worked 
the American sections know that bees do not readily take to them, and 
all kinds 'of dodging are resorted to to get them up. In my glass 
sections there is not this difficulty. If the bees are ready for supering 
they go up with a rush in a few minutes after putting on ; they will 
■also go up when they are not strong enough to remain in at night; in 
fact they take to them as readily as empty combs in ordinary frames. 
Having answered all the objections, I beg to inform “A Sussex 
Amateur” that what I promised in the second paragraph of my letter on 
page 413 I intend to fulfil. I do not intend to sell the sections ready 
•cut myself, I may supply the cutting tool at Is. My object is to show 
every bee-keeper how he can make his own sections in winter, which 
is a time of the year he is little occupied with the bees. Cutting these 
sections will find him work and help keep up his interest in honey and 
bees. Some of these people will get very expert in cutting them. They 
may also be able to obtain a large supply of cullet at a cheap rate, 
■therefore it is not out of the way to suppose numbers will be glad to 
■sell them at 10s. per thousand. If “A Sussex Amateur ” does not care 
to make his own —and what amateur would buy what he can possibly 
make 1 —he must look to these people for his supply.—A Hallamshire 
Bee-keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Pntz & Roes, Erfurt, Prussia.— Annual Seed Lint, 1SSS-1SS9. 
S. F. Armitage, Nottingham.— Catalogue of Fruit Trees , Sfc. 
Dickson & Co., 1, Waterloo Place, Eliuburgh.— Catalogues of Fruit 
Trees and Roses. 
° # * All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. 
Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened un¬ 
avoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. AJ1 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannct reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
Exhibiting- ( Fair Play'). —There are four classes on the cutting 
sent, and you do not state to which you refer. If to the plant classes, we 
<lo not think a gentleman employing a groom and gardener regularly 
would be eligible to compete. 
Chrysanthemums for Exhibition (IF. II.).—If you cannot 
select the leading varieties from the prize stands published in the 
reports of shows they will be tabulated in due time, and you can then 
■choose the number required. 
Chrysanthemum Sport ( T. S.). —The flowers you send are those 
■of Pink Christine, a well known reflexed variety. Mrs. Forsyth is 
White Christine, several other forms being also grown, as the Christine 
type has been found to be very variable and sportive. 
Books QJ. II. IF.).—'We should think that “ The Elements of 
Entomology,” by W. S. Dallas, published by C. Griffin & Co., Exeter 
Street, Strand, London, and Kirby’s “Text Book of Entomology,” 
published by Murray, Albermarle Street, London, would suit you. With 
respect to the other question, write to Mr. J. Browning, 63, Strand, 
London, for a price' list. 
Peach Trees Infested with Scale (IF. IF. Kent?). —Syringe the 
frees with a solution of softsoap (6 ozs.) and soda (1 oz.) in 4 gallons 
watep, adding a wineglassful of petroleum, keeping them well mixed 
•either by alternate discharges from the syringe into the watering pot, 
or a second person stirring briskly with a broomhandle whilst the trees 
are being syringed. Repeat, if necessary, in the course of a week, and 
again before the buds begin swelling. 
Marsh Mallow or Marigold (A. II. C.). —The Marsh Mallow is 
Althaea officinalis, not an especially attractive plant, but we should 
think you mean the Marsh Marigold, Caltha palustris, which has showy 
golden flowers, and it would succeed admirably in such a position as 
that you describe. They require moist rich soil, and if favourably suited 
in this respect they will grow vigorously and flower freely in early 
spring. There are both single and double varieties, which you can 
obtain from any dealer in hardy plants. 
Plants for Rockery (IF. R. 71).—Do not confine your plants to 
those of a “ creeping character,” but mingle with them others of a 
dwarf, compact, or spreading growth, and the effect will be much more 
satisfactory. Among those which we find to answer are Erica carnea, 
Azalea amcena, Kalmia nana, Erica Foxii, Phlox frondosa, P. Nelsoni, 
P. verna, P. setacea, Plumbago Larpent®, Thymus lanuginosus, Silene 
maritima,Hypericum patulum. Lithospermum prostratum. Rhododendron 
ferrugineum, Andromeda floribunda, A. Catesboei, and Gaultheria pro- 
cumbens. 
Asphalt Walks (Young Hand'). —Perhaps it is best made cf two 
parts lime rubbish and one part coal ashes, both very dry and sifted fine. 
Mix and leave a hole in the centre of the heap, and into this pour boiling 
coal tar, mixing well together. When of the consistency of mortar 
spread it 3 inches thick, on a dry and previously well prepared or 
levelled surface. Sprinkle with sharp dry sand. When sufficiently 
stiffened pass a roller over the asphalt. A good foundation should be 
formed of rough material, and drains to carry off the surface water. The 
work should be done in dry hot weather. The ashes from engine 
furnaces will be the most suitable. 
Heating- a Peach House (Idem'). —A flow and return 4-inch pipe 
will give sufficient heat in the Peach house, and you will need valves on 
both the flow and return so as to regulate the heat to a nicety, as the 
pipes being 3 feet higher than in the other houses, the hot-water circula¬ 
tion will be much freer. Either you must have the expansion pipe 
correspondingly higher or put in syphons, doing away with the open 
expansion pipe, and have a feed cistern in stokehole, allowing for 
expansion in fixing the Peach house pipes or have an expansion cistern. 
We should take the pipes across the yard as you propose, employing 
2-inch pipes both for the flow and return. You will need air taps at 
the highest point of the pipes in all the structures. 
Asparagus (A. A. R.~). —If you dig up and divide the roots, re¬ 
planting a portion on the same ground and the surplus on land adjoin¬ 
ing, you will gain time in the production of heads on the second plot, 
but lose in the case of the former through the check resulting from re¬ 
moval, this being small or the reverse according to the weather. Taking 
all things into consideration, we should not disturb the yearlings, but 
let them grow. Two or three plants together, a foot or 18 inches apart, 
in rows 2 feet asunder, will have no appreciable effect on the produce. 
Possibly you will be able to cut a greater number of good saleable heads 
from them sooner than you would from single plants, thoush these in 
time would perhaps afford some stronger growths. We usually sow two 
good seeds at the desired intervals, and are not greatly disappointed if 
both produce plants. If your soil is suitable for Asparagus the crop 
ought to pay very well, as you have facilities of disposing of the produce. 
If you want thick white stalks and green or purple tips only, they are 
obtained by piling earth over the crowns when the plants are strong 
enough for cutting. 
Plants for Rockery (G. T.'). —It is difficult to name plants that 
rabbits will not eat, as much depends upon their number, the severity of 
the weather, and the scarcity of their natural food— i.e., grasses and 
other herbage. The following are not usuaby eaten by rabbits, and 
will grow in rather shady situations, but not under the drip of trees : — 
Arabis albida, Aubrietia gr®ca, Azalea amoena, A. procumbens (the two 
last are dwarf shrubs requiring heat), Campanula garganica, Cistus vars. 
but they are not very hardy ; Cotoneaster rupestris (dwarf shrub) 
Cyclamens Atkinsi, Coum, vernum, hedermfolium, and neapolitanum do 
well in shade at the foot of rockwork ; Cytisis decumbens, Daphne 
Fioniana, Erica carnea, Genista prsecox, Geum montanum, Iberis 
corremfolia, Lithospermum prostratum, Phlox Nelsoni, P. verna; 
Primulas in variety do well at the toot of rockwork in partial shade ; 
Rhododendron hirsutum, Rosa rugosa, and var. alba, Saxifraga Camposi, 
Sedum spectabile, and Sempervivum arachnoideum. The Yincas and 
Hypericum calycinum form a dense covering in shade, and rabbits care 
■ nothing about them. Hellebores, Trollius, Trillium, &c., do well in 
partial shade, and are fine at the foot of rockwork, where they have 
plenty of good soil and moisture. 
Planting Peach Trees (S. 71).—We have never seen better Peaches 
than from trees grown in a border 15 inches deep resting on a gravel 
subsoil ; but the border was composed mainly of good turfy loam of 
medium texture, and was mulched liberally with manure. You say you 
have some doubt as to whether your soil is suitable for Peach trees, yet 
omit to say one word as to its nature. All we can do, therefore, is to 
advise you to mix lime rubbish and gritty matter with it if it is heavy, 
and strong loam or clay dried and crushed if it is light. The trees may 
be planted at once, and a good covering of manure placed over the roots. 
You do not state tlienumber you require. The following are good varieties 
for succession, and will ripen in a house without fire heatAlexander, 
Hales’ Early, Rivers’ Early York, Gros Mignonne, Royal George, Belle- 
garde, and Barrington. These will probably be as many as you require. 
If you desire to plant a Nectarine or two, Lord Napier (early) and Pine 
Apple (late) will probably give satisfaction. If you can make the 
border 6 inches deeper by adding fresh loam, or such soil as would grow 
