548 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 13, 18S8. 
Those who may wish to transplant any trees already established on the 
place, and it is a good plan to regulate those against walls and in the 
open occasionally, ought always to wait till the greater portion of the 
leaves are fallen. At the present time all but Peach and Nectarine 
trees have shed their leaves, and the work, therefore, of transplanting 
Apricot, Cherry, Plum, and Pear trees ought to be pushed forward while 
the mild weather continues. The aim in all cases should be to secure a 
moderate sized ball of soil about the roots, and to preserve as many of 
the latter as possible. A trench must be opened at least 4 feet clear of 
the stem of a moderately large tree, and still farther off if extra large 
specimens are to be moved. Then, if the roots are well undermined 
with the aid of forks, and gradually traced to near the stems, only a few 
of them need be broken. The ball of soil and roots being slipped on 
to a stout board or legless hand-barrow may easily be lifted out of the 
hole, carried to its new site, and replanted. Always plant rather high 
to allow for the natural settlement of the soil, cleanly cut away all 
bruised roots, as well as the jagged ends of the sound ones, and distri¬ 
bute these evenly through the soil, keeping all as near the surface as 
possible consistent with safety. Transplanting fruit trees frequently 
greatly improves their productiveness, and if given plenty of fresh 
loamy soil or chopped turves the quality also will be improved. 
Lifting Fruit Trees. —Lifting as distinguished from root-pruning 
usually consists of undermining and completely raising the tree and 
returning it to its original site again. It is more often necessary in the 
case of much-restricted and miniature trees, and being practised every 
two or three years checks luxuriant growth without spoiling the prospect 
of a full crop the following season. The first time the trees are lifted 
many of the roots will have spread to a considerable distance, and these 
have to be cut through at about 3 feet from the stem. This, in addi¬ 
tion to checking injuriously deep root action, also induces the formation 
of abundance of root fibres, so that in after years quite a compact mass 
of fibres will be found when the lifting time comes round again. Any 
trees clear of walls, notably pyramid and bush Apple and Pear trees, 
ought when lifted to be half turned round, and in this manner each 
•side in its turn gets the full benefit of the full sunshine, an important 
proceeding, the benefit of which ought to be apparent enough. A small 
portion of fresh loamy compost ought to be disposed about the roots 
•each time the trees are lifted, this being the means of sustaining the 
fertility of the trees as well as insuring the perfecting of much finer 
fruit. Lifting is by no means a very formidable job, and in the case of 
cordon trained trees is absolutely necessary, or otherwise there is every 
likelihood of much growth and little or no fruit being produced by 
them. Much stunted trees ought to be lifted and replanted in rich 
compost. 
Root-pruning. — This is a more gradual and less severe process 
than lifting, and acts most beneficially where given a fair trial. When 
a large tree is wholly lifted it experiences a check from which it does 
not recover for two or three years, a much stunted growth being the 
almost sure consequence. It should be remembered that root-pruning 
is advisable in most cases where the trees invariably form an excessive 
quantity of wood, and produce little or no fruit. The root-pruning 
being judiciously carried out, the exactly opposite state of affairs—viz., 
abundance of fruit and a moderate quantity of growth will, frosts and 
birds permitting, be induced. Rank growth and unfruitfulness is 
usually consequent upon a deep and widespread root-action, and this 
must be checked before abundance of root fibres will form near the 
surface. An improved root-action is soon followed by more fruitful 
growth, sturdier well-ripened wood being best calculated to bear 
abundance of fruit. There are tw T o methods of accomplishing this 
desirable end, one being completed at once, the other in two or more 
seasons. Comparatively young trees, or any that have only just furnished 
much of the space allotted to them, will not, as a rule, have formed any 
very stout wide-spreading roots, and will also be furnished with a 
moderate quantity of root fibres or smaller roots. Such may have a 
trench opened round them at a good distance from the trees, and the 
roots carefully bared to within 2 feet of the stems. All being duly 
shortened and relaid in fresh turfy loam or ordinary garden soil, and in 
every instance brought as near to the surface as possible, nothing further 
will be needed beyond mulching the ground early in the summer. Much 
older trees treated similarly might end badly, and the safest course is to 
partially root-prune, and complete the operation next autumn or early in 
the winter. In this case the trees should be root-pruned on one side 
only at a time. Sometimes the trees derive nearly all their support from 
a few very strong wide-spreading or deep-running roots, these may be 
needing cutting through with a saw. In such instances the root- 
pruning must extend over three seasons, a year’s interval being necessary 
for the proper recovery of the severely shortened roots. Or to be plain, 
the second half of the roots must not be cut before those first operated 
on have formed abundance of fresh root fibres. The undermining must 
be thorough, or the strongest deeply running roots will probably be 
missed, and it is owing to these that much sappy wood and inferior fruit 
are produced. This method of root-pruning and renovating the trees 
will not be complete unless abundance of fresh loamy soil, with the 
addition of fine bones be used. Soil long occupied by the roots of trees 
will not encourage the formation of abundance of root fibres, but a 
fairly rich compost will and is also necessary for the w r ell being of 
the trees. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines.—J Lilting Vine Borders. —Where young Vines have to be 
planted in spring advantage should be taken of suitable weather for 
securing compost and getting the border prepared for their reception. 
Drainage being the first essential, this part of the work must be well 
done. Place 3-inch tiles with proper fall and outlet to carry off the 
water passing the drainage, and if the bottom of the border be wet, or 
subsoil unfavourable, it ought to be concreted, than which nothing answers 
better than two parts gravel and one part cement formed into a mortar¬ 
like mass. The gravel should be fine as for garden paths, and be 4 to 
6 inches thick. The drainage must be clean and not less than 9 inches 
thick, better a foot, the coarsest at bottom and finest at the top, which 
may be covered with the coarser parts of old mortar rubbish, using that 
remaining in a half-inch sieve after sifting the finer particles out. The 
finer portion will do for mixing with the compost, but be careful to 
remove from the mortar rubbish all pieces of wood or old laths. The 
drainage may be covered with a thin layer of turves grass side down¬ 
wards. Thirty inches depth of border is ample, which may consist of 
good turfy loam— i.e., the top 3 or 4 inches of a pasture taken off with 
its turf and chopped roughly. A rather strong calcareous loam is best, 
as the Grapes are found to attain larger size and have a better colour 
and finish than when light soil is employed. Light soil, however, may 
be improved in holding texture by an addition of clayey marl, a fourth 
to a sixth according to the nature of the loam, whilst a strong clayey 
loam may have similar proportions of old mortar rubbish or road 
scrapings incorporated with it. Surface loam rarely contains sufficient 
calcareous matter, and old mortar rubbish is too sleepy for these go-ahead 
days, so it need only be used to keep the soil open, to hold moisture, and 
a source of lime as the Vines require it, but chalk would pe.rhaps be 
preferable. What is found to answer best is quicklime, as much as a 
tenth being incorporated with the fresh loam, thrown in a heap and 
thoroughly mixed before putting in the border, where it should remain 
about six weeks before planting the Vines. Charcoal may be used to 
the extent of a twentieth, and steamed crushed bones-to the extent of 
a fortieth. The fresh lime causes the better and earlier assimilation of 
the fibry matter as food, and the Vines are not so liable to make a gross 
growth with a corresponding large pith ; indeed the wood is more ligneous, 
and what is lost in grossness is counterbalanced in hardness of wood 
and plumpness of buds. It is advisable to keep the border well above 
the surrounding ground level, especially in low damp situations, and give 
the surface a good slope to the front, so that when covered rain and 
snow is thrown off. A 4-feefr width is sufficient to start with, and should 
be inside, the roots being confined it it by closing the apertures in the 
front wall, as it is advisable to have the inside border well filled with 
roots before admitting them to the outside. 
Young Pot Vines .—Those intended to be grown into fruiting canes 
may be cut down to a couple of eyes or close to the pots, dressed with 
styptic, and placed in a succession house, which will be started early in 
January. Single eyes may also be inserted in small pots or in pieces of 
turf, and kept cool for two or three weeks before they are placed in 
bottom heat. 
Midseason Mouses .—Proceed with pruning the Vines, a3 they break 
and show better when they have a good season of rest. They should be 
dressed, and the house thoroughly cleansed ready for a fresh start when 
the proper time arrives. The loose inert surface soil must be removed 
down to the roots, and a layer given, 2 or 3 inches thick, of fresh loam, 
to which has been added a sprinkling of bonemeal and charred refuse. 
Keep the houses cool and dry until the time arrives for closing. If they 
must be used for plants, keep them 40° to 45° by artificial means, and as 
dry as practicable. 
Late Grapes .—Examine these at least twice a week for decayed 
berries, and keep the house as cool and dry as may be consistent with the 
safety and preservation of the fruit. When thoroughly ripe and. the 
Vines are leafless, a mean temperature of 50° is suitable until the time 
arrives for bottling. Anything much below this is liable to cause mould 
and decay ; and fire heat, especially at night, will undoubtedly cause 
the berries to shrivel immediately after the fall of the foliage. No 
further time should be lost in preparing the Grape-room ready for the 
stock of keeping Grapes, which must be cleareed off the Vines not later 
than the first week in January, and a week’s steady firing is necessary 
to expel damp. The certainty with which Grapes keep bottled for four 
or five months in better condition and at less expense has given confi¬ 
dence in a system which affords relief to the Vines, insuring that perfect 
rest so essential to their after well-doing. Gros Colman requires the 
longest time of any on the Vines, as it takes colour after the foliage is 
ripe, and owing to the soft fleshy nature of the footstalks, which are 
likely to decay, it is best kept in the driest and warmest part of the 
Grape-room, by which means it parts with its earthy flavour and improves 
in quality. To do well, it requires to be started early—by the middle of 
February—not later, as it needs a long season of growth, and the fruit 
ought to be finished by the end of September. 
Cherry House. —The trees having been duly attended to in prun¬ 
ing, dressing, &c., the house can now be closed. Let the treatment 
be such as will not excite growth prematurely, therefore only allow a 
slow progression. A temperature of 40° to 45° at night and 50° in the 
day will need to be maintained by artificial means. When the external 
conditions, however, are favourable a few degrees higher may safely be 
permitted, but anything calculat d to bring the trees on too quickly 
must be carefully guarded against, as undue execitement at the com¬ 
mencement is likely to prove injurious to the crop. Ventilate at 50° 
just a little at the apex to insure a change of atmosphere, ventilating 
freely at 55°, allowing an advance of 65° or 70° with sun, and closing at 
55°. Moderate moisture in the atmosphere will be attained by syring¬ 
ing occasionally, but in all cases allow the trees to become dry before 
night. It is highly important that the borders be thoroughly moist, as 
