550 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
r December 13, 1888. 
The foregoing brief hints may be regarded as the essence of 
successful supering, which consists in having hives in readiness in 
and at the right time, and not attempting supering until there are 
bees to fill the supers and attend to the brood. In “ Gleanings ” 
for November 15th Mr. G. M. Doolittle has a sensible article on 
supering, in which he objects to the tiering up of supers—that is, 
if I understand him aright. He ably points out its defects, 
and shows the way bees work naturally, abhorring a vacuum- 
just as I have repeatedly pointed out to the readers of this Journal. 
His mode of supering is in accordance with the natural working of 
the bees, giving them at first space right in the centre and over the 
■cluster and extending on both sides gradually as the bees can get on 
with comb-building. But, however plausible his argument is in 
this last respect, and however “ natural” the process is, it would 
never be successful in this country. To attempt such here the 
honey season would come and go before anything like a harvest was 
secured. In countries where fine weather is of long duration, and 
where hives with fewer bees than obtain in this country can gather 
more honey by reason of length of time, the plan may do very well. 
But in this country a hive is not ready, nor in a fit state for super¬ 
ing, until the bees are numerous enough to take possession of and 
fill rapidly supers equal at least to a third of the size of the hive. 
Moreover, it is a mistake to attempt supering with the centre 
spaces over the brood nest open, as I have shown frequently. Mr. 
Doolittle argues the thing reasonably and fairly and in accordance 
with the nature of bees, but his country is different from ours.— 
A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
James Carter & Co., 237 and 238, High Holborn, London .—General 
Seed Catalogue, highly illustrated. 
All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. 
Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened un¬ 
avoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
Books ( Subscriber ).—It is doubtful if any work will suit you 
oetter than the “ Cottage Gardeners’ Dictionary,” price 8s. post free 
from this office. It is very comprehensive, and as you will perceive 
much less costly than the work you name. ( Shelley ).—We do not 
know of a good book on the subject you name. (//. Si.). —The sixth 
edition of “ Mushrooms for the Million ” is in the press. 
Bellissime d’Hiver Pear (<?. L. C.) —This is a very good culinary 
Pear, some persons, however objecting to it because it is not quite firm 
enough for them, preferring Catillac, even if it is sometimes gritty at the 
core. The first-named makes a very good pyramid, and on that account 
would be Suitable for your purpose. 
Pine Apple (T. J .').—The crown is formed of the leaves, and they 
are of the same use to them as are the leaves of all the plants in the 
same tribe. If the crown is proliferous, reduce it to one as soon as 
apparent. Bad cultivation causes ah excess of crown, such as too little 
heat and' deficient light. Small crowns are always preferred. 
Analysing Soil (J. Mooreby ).—We believe Dr. Voelcker under¬ 
takes scientific work of this kind, and you may write to him on the sub¬ 
ject, his address being Salisbury Square, Fleet Street, London, E.C. He 
will advise you on the quantity to send and the depth of procuring it 
for your purpose, if you make this known to him. 
Chrysanthemum Sport (T. .S'.).—Unquestionably the large flower 
sent is distinct from the type, this being a well coloured bloom of 
Empress Eugenie. The “sport” is reflexed, and better than many 
we have seen in the stands of that section this season. Fix it if 
you can with the object of ascertaining its true character. There have 
been many abnormal blooms this year, which we suspect are peculiar to 
the season, and may not be seen again. 
Pruit Trees on Clay Subsoil ( Burton). —Make stations, or 
mounds, upon the surface of your garden, as frequently recommended. 
Plant the trees upon them, cutting away any descending roots, and 
training out the lateral roots regularly all round, and near the surface. 
Keep that surface mulched and undug. By this means the roots will be 
induced to remain near the surface. If you destroy the surface-roots by 
digging, others will be formed deeper in the soil, and these getting into 
the clay will induce canker. 
Pruning- Deutzias (D. O.). —They should be pruned like Goose¬ 
berries and Black Currants—that is, getting rid of as much old wood as 
you can, and leaving the young to flower and make flowering wood ; in 
two words, remove the old and spare the young wood every time you 
prune them, but then you are not on that account to cut away more old 
wood than will keep the bushes moderately thin. A young shoot here 
and there that is longer than the rest, or out of shape, is to be cut in 
keeping the bush uniform in shape. 
Flan of Garden (P. A).—There is not one of the present beds 
in the right place, for this reason—there is not a place for any of them. 
We would not do away with the walk across the end from the entrance 
by any means, nor the border on the right going to the kitchen garden, 
as that border no doubt was intended for evergreens ; but if the flower 
garden were to be levelled and laid out in the geometric way, that 
border ought to form a part, and then the grass to reach the side of the 
walk to the kitchen garden. 
Wintering American Aloe (A. S.'). — The plant will do very 
well in the hall if the stove does not raise the temperature above 50°. 
If it raised the heat much above that it ought to stand near a win¬ 
dow, and if not suitable to give it light you will keep it better in the 
stable at the farthest corner from the horse, allowing it to be dry, cover¬ 
ing it with a cloth and hay in bad cold weather, and now and then, 
when the weather is fine and mild, setting it out of doors for a few 
hours. It will keep very well in any dry cool place provided frost is 
excluded. 
Rockery Water Basin (G. James'). —The best and cheapest way 
of having a water-tight basin in a rockery is to build it with bricks in 
cement, and to plaster the inside of it with best Roman cement. Then 
to build the rockwork round it, to form the lowest side into a valley, 
and to get the waste water to run there, or to stands in pools or lakes ; 
and to plant marsh plants and water reeds to shelter and shade smaller 
kinds along the banks. Nothing is more easy than to remove the most 
of our Ferns in mild weather, from September to the middle or end of 
March. Take good balls with them and observe how they grow. But 
naturally some are on dry banks, some in deep sandy loam, some in very 
dry exposed places, and some the contrary No guide is better than 
Nature in Fern culture. 
Coriander ( Youngster ).—The leaves of this are used both in salad 
and in soups for their high and peculiar aromatic flavour. The seeds 
are used medicinally, and are considered soothing and stomachic. They 
are also sold by confectioners, encrusted with sugar. If required early 
the seed is to be sown thinly on a hotbed in February or Slarch ; and 
when 3 inches high the plants are ready for use. As they will soon run 
to seed another sowing must be made in April for a succession. This 
may be done m an open, warm situation, in drills 6 inches apart, an inch 
deep, then covered over with light earth with a rake. When the leaves 
are 3 or 4 inches high, they may be gathered for use by cutting them off 
close to the ground. To have a supply all the summer a little should be 
sown every month, as it soon runs to seed. For winter use it may be 
sown in August and September on a warm border ; and when cold 
weather sets in the plants must be hooped over and protected. 
Early Tomatoes (N. /S'.). —Certainly you may commence earlier than 
March—sowing the seed at once or in January, if you can keep the 
plants sturdy, for this purpose cultural skill requiring to be added to 
suitable structures. We do, as you suggest, endeavour to exercise the 
virtue of patience in dealing with the questions of correspondents when 
we can aid them in their difficulties. This is, in one respect, particularly 
necessary, as they so often overlook or forget the precise information 
that is required, and where it is given in fuller detail than is practicable 
in the form of a reply. A position close to the glass, and a temperature 
of about 65°, falling to 00°, is necessary for raising Tomato plants very 
early in the season. Roses are best not forced the first season after 
planting, and especially if soil was shaken from their roots in the process 
or if they were dug from the open ground. Bonemeal is excellent for 
incorporating with the soil for Tomatoes, a little potash further im¬ 
proving it. 
Pruning- Xpomsea Leari (N. Gordon). —The Ipomnea Leari is one 
of the best conservatory climbers ; but it will be apt to suffer if the 
average temperature at night in winter be long below 45°, and especially 
if the main stem be near the glass of the roof, where it would be most 
quickly cooled by radiation on a frosty night. If the plant consist of 
one main strong stem, with flowering shoots coming from that main 
stem all the way, then each of these shoots may be pruned back now to 
