Decern txr 20, IS8S. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
571 
like a Cauliflower in its beautiful white heads that this name is appro¬ 
priate. 
Sowing Peas in Autumn. —Some growers sow a few rows of Peas 
in autumn, but these are by no means the majority or so numerous as 
they ought to be, as autumn-sown Peas if properly treated will furnish 
pods before any sown in spring. If sown at this time they invariably 
grow robustly and remain strong and healthy during the spring months. 
We have tried them in all the weeks from the 1st of November until the 
last of December, and always sow some in the week including the 
shortest day. Only the earliest round-seeded sorts should be sown now. 
The position must be sunny and sheltered, but not too much confined. 
Cold strong winds are more injurious to them than severe frost. We 
prefer sowing on a south or south-east border, the rows not being c’oser 
than 10 feet apart, as it is important that the sun in the early summer 
should reach all parts of the rows. We rarely manure a whole border 
or quarter for Peas, but dig a quantity of manure in where each row is 
to be sown, and after digging the drills are opened for the seed with a 
drag hoe. These are not made so wide as in summer, as the young 
plants do better when close together than when thin and far apart. 
Make the drill 4 inches deep ; and after sowing the seed put 3 inches of 
soil on the top, and finish with 2 inches of finely sifted ashes. These 
make an excellent surfacing, as they do not retain the moisture about 
the young plants like soil, and they also guard them very well from 
snails. Should the soil be moist at sowing time do not tread it, 
but as soon as it is dry tread it down each side of the row, as Peas grow 
much better in firm than in loose soil. 
Broad Beans. —These should also be sown now, large-podded 
varieties being avoided at present. They will succeed in a colder and 
heavier soil than the Peas, but shelter and sun are highly beneficial to 
them. Sow the seeds at the same depth as the Peas, and not more than 
2 inches apart. Mice are very fond of Broad Beans, and care must be 
taken from the fust that they do not injure the seed. 
Hotbeds. —In a week or two hence the forcing of Carrots, Radishes, 
Potatoes, &c.. will demand attention, and hotbeds afford excellent means 
of growing them. These early crops are invaluable. Material, there¬ 
fore, must be collected at once, and may consist of tree leaves and littery 
manure from stable or cowshed. Vegetable refuse, if fresh, may also be 
employed, but reject half-decayed matter, as it will not retain the heat 
for long. Throw the whole into a large heap to ferment, and to allow 
the excessive heat and moisture to escape, turning the material every 
alternate day for a fortnight, when it will be in good condition to make 
into beds that will retain warmth for three or four months. 
Horseradish. —This is not a leading crop, and yet itisalmost indis¬ 
pensable, but a small plantation is generally sufficient for an ordinary 
supply, and this may be secured without much expense. We are never 
very anxious to have Horseradish of extraordinary thickness. Roots an 
inch or two thick suffice, and are easily produced. The best way of 
transplanting is to dig the whole of it up, select a number of straight 
young roots for replanting, and lay all the others under the soil in an 
odd corner for use as required. In replanting dig the soil to a depth of 
15 inches, adding a quantity of manure if necessary, and replant by 
making holes with a-dibble and dropping the thong-like roots in. The 
crowns should nearly be level with the surface, allowing a space of 
2 feet between the rows and 15 inches between the plants. 
Stored Roots. —These are ilot keeping well. Onions, which 
appeared matured, are sprouting, so are Potatoes in sheds, and all should 
be examined. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Chrysanthemums .—Intending growers of large blooms should insert 
cuttings without delay. They will root freely in sandy soil in a cold 
frame, or better still in a frame or under handlights in a cool house 
from which frost is excluded. For this purpose select sturdy cuttings 
that have sprung from the base. We prefer inserting the cuttings singly 
in small pots and then standing them in a frame or under handlights. 
Water liberally after insertion, and if the lights are kept close the 
cuttings will not be long before they are rooted. Directly they are 
rooted gradually harden them to a cool temperature. 
French and Fancy Pelargoniums.—Be careful not to give these too 
much water or their foliage will become spotted. On the other hand, do 
not allow the soil to become dust dry. Keep the atmosphere of the 
house as dry as possible without the aid of fire heat. This can be 
accomplished by having a little fire heat on fine days, when the structure 
can be ventilated liberally. Maintain a temperature of 45° at night, 
which will be ample to keep the earliest plants advancing slowly, and if 
they are advanced near to the glass the growth they make will be 
sturdy. Aphides are very likely to attack the plants at this stage of 
their growth. If they are observed fumigate the house slightly with 
tobacco. 
Cyclamens— If these are not coming'into flower as quickly as desired 
place them on a shelf near to the glass in a temperature of 50° to 55°. 
Under these conditions they will quickly push up their flowers. Ventilate 
on all favourable occasions to prevent the foliage drawing. \ oung plants 
that were pricked into pans and boxes two months ago may now be 
potted singly into 2-inch pots. Encourage a slow but sturdy growth in 
a temperature of 50°. When young plants are grown on in brisk heat 
they become drawn and seldom do well afterwards. Prick out seedlings 
into pans or boxes. To succeed with Cyclamens never allow the soil to 
become dry from the time the seed is sown until after the plants have 
flowered. 
Ilydrangeas .—Where these were rooted in small pots and have been 
kept in them until now they can be placed in 5-inch pots as opportunities 
offer. Those rooted from plants that failed to flower early in the season 
will have enjoyed a good rest, and may be started into growth directly 
they have been potted. A vinery, Peach house, or Rose house just 
started is a capital place for them. In potting be careful to leave the: 
bud above the surface of the soil. This season we are potting in every 
case where practicable as low as possible ; the pots will be filled up 
after the flower is visible. This will insure good foliage down to the 
rim, and will assist the blooms wonderfully when developing. Use 
for a compost good fibry loam, one-seventh decayed manure, and a little 
sand. 
Lilium candidum. —Where these were potted as early in the season 
as bulbs could be obtained, and have since been in cold frames, they can 
now be removed to a light airy structure where the temperature will 
range about 45°. Undue forcing must be avoided, but under the con¬ 
ditions advised the flower stems will soon be visible. Allow them to 
come forward steadily ; if hurried they will fail to flower. VVatch for 
aphides, and destroy them at once if they appear on the plants. As 
growth advances supply water liberally. 
NOTES ON BEES. 
CANDY FOR BEES. 
Ever since this Journal first announced the advantages of 
feeding bees with barley sugar, volumes have been written upon, 
the subject, and candy, in consequence of its less liability to- 
deliquesce than the former, has been substituted. A reader of this 
Journal, “ W. H. C. D.,” sends the following recipe for feeding 
neglected bees:—-“I have made several cakes of candy for the- 
bees, simply by damping granulated sugar with water, putting it in 
a shallow box, and setting it near the fire to harden into a cake ; ffi, 
answers splendidly, and this is much easier than boiling, and no 
risk of burning.” The above plan seems much better than the- 
common candy, as there is no waste of sugar by the bees, nor- 
through the change brought on by boiling. Then the “shallow 
boxes with a moveable lid to fall in as the bees take the sugar is 
ingenious and good. The same writer also states that he has a 
large surplus of honey from all his hives, made and managed 
according to instructions given in this Journal, but not an ounce- 
from the ten-framed standard size of the British Bee-keepers’ 
Association, and wisely adds that in a good year honey may be had- 
from any hive ; but in a bad season it can only be had from hives 
such as has been recommended in these pages, and proves con¬ 
clusively what is the best hive.” 
RAISES UNDERNEATH HIYEh 
At page 549 I incidentally mentioned the uses and the antiquity 
of these raises, and in a former article showed that the system was 
being tried in this country as an entirely new one. I have also 
shown how numerous old ideas has been appropriated by others of 
the modern class, and how the Americans have of late been only- 
advancing for the first time these old ideas. Singular to saw 
“ Gleanings,” that came by the same post as the Journal, contains a 
description and drawing of a raise as new, exactly the same as has 
been in use hereabouts from time immemorial ; and yet we read in 
the same “ Gleanings ” that they, the Americans, were the most, 
advanced bee-keepers in the world. If America is not more fatai 
to bees than our country is during winter I cannot endorse suc.i 
statements, for until bee-keepers know how to preserve at least 
ninety out of every hundred of their hives during winter they are: 
far behind. If all would give the ventilating floor a fair trial,, 
many hives that are allowed to perish during winter or smothered 
during summer’s heat, would be preserved alive. 
GLASS SECTIONS. 
I have no less than a score of letters asking my opinion of these 
as well as many others on different subjects, most of which I have, 
through pressure of work, been unable to answer, but will do so at 
the first convenience, so trust this explanation will be a sufficient 
apology. 
