592 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 27, 1888. 
the grass, they hatch out in the early spring, and burying themselves into 
the ground soon grow into dirty-looking grubs an inch long, having very 
tough skins. They are destitute of legs, but still have the power of 
burrowing rapidly in the ground. They make their burrows a little 
below the surface of the ground and among the roots of the grass on 
which they feed. So actively do they work and feed that they quickly 
kill off a patch of grass, and their presence underground is then made 
known by an ugly brown dead patch on lawn or field. The best 
remedies we can avail ourselves of against these pests are the birds, 
especially rooks and starlings, and also the much-slandered moles, 
which, as devourers of grubs of aH sorts, wireworms, &c., are simply 
invaluable, and should be cherished instead of being killed and trapped 
as noxious vermin. 
The injury we suffer from the caterpillars of moths and butterflies is 
probably much better known than that caused by other classes of 
insects ; still, the ignorance of gardeners and cultivators regarding these 
creatures, which are comparatively so easy of observation, is astounding. 
Among the lesser known, but not the less dangerous on that account, 
are the caterpillars feeding in the interior of the stems of various plants 
and shrubs ; one of these, the clearwing moth larva, will serve as an 
example. The moth is small, having more the appearance of a fly than 
a moth, its wings being almost destitute of scales ; it lays its eggs on 
the bark of Currant bushes. The larva on emerging from the egg im¬ 
mediately eats into the middle of the stem and then continues eating its 
way along the pith, always working upwards. It goes on feeding the 
whole of the autumn and a good portion of the winter, and emerges as 
a moth the next summer. When a bush is attacked by this creature 
nothing can save it, and the only thing to be done is at once to cut away 
right down to the ground all the doubtful stems, and carefully burn 
them. This should be done in the winter. 
I have now touched in the most superficial manner upon four only 
out of the thirteen orders of insects, but I have more than exhausted 
my space and I fear my readers’ patience. If, however, any remarks of 
mine shall induce anyone to study and observe the lives of these 
creatures that are competing with us for our food, I feel sure I shall 
have done some good. The field of research into the lives and habits of 
insects is open to all, and the knowledge to be gained is probably of far 
more importance to the world and likely to result in more direct gain to 
mankind than most of us dream of. 
WORK.foiithe WEEK. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Seasonable Work. —In most large gardens much of the pruning 
has already been done, and those in charge of smaller places ought also 
to push forward this important work much earlier than they often do 
When the bushes and trees in the open are pruned early this admits of 
the manuring and surface digging being also completed before the men 
are required for other work. Many of the wall trees, in fact all but 
Peaches, Nectarines, and Figs, may also be pruned, and the nailing or 
tying attended to while the weather is favourable. Trees that are of 
vigorous habit and not very fruitful require no manure, but directly 
they arrive at a free-bearing state they ought to receive some assistance 
the better to maintain their fertility. Much-starved and stunted trees, 
these invariably attempting to produce heavy crops annually, absolutely 
require liberal treatment at the roots, otherwise they are unprofitable. 
Nor should Currants, Gooseberries, and Raspberries be neglected, these 
when of good size well repaying for mulchings or top-dressings of 
manure every year, or at least every second season. Nothing suits fruit 
trees generally better than a liberal dressing of partially decayed 
vegetable matter, such as a mixture of leaves, garden refuse, stable 
manure, and the contents of a “ smother,” or the heap of ashes and 
charred substances resulting from the slow burning of a great mass of 
rubbish and soil. Where leaves and manure are collected every winter, 
in the first place to afford bottom heat for forcing vegetables, and sub¬ 
sequently for growing Vegetable Marrows and ridge Cucumbers, this 
will be in admirable condition for present use. The ground about fruit 
trees and bushes ought never to be deeply dug, nor should spades be 
used near them. No harm will result from lightly skimming the surface 
with forks, the manure or top-dressing being turned in at the same time. 
In many instances it is advisable to just bare the topmost roots of choice 
fruit trees to a distance of not less than 4 feet from the stems ; and 
after a liberal top-dressing has been given to surface this over with the 
soil thrown back. This is preferable to either digging-in the top¬ 
dressing or leaving it exposed, and the roots soon take possession of it, a 
marked improvement in the quality and weight of the crops being the 
sure consequence. 
Pears. —These amongst wall trees are usually the first to be pruned 
and re-nailed or otherwise secured to the walls. In the case of well 
established trees the operation is very simple. All that is necessary is to 
thin out the spurs where at all thick, the longest and those not well 
furnished with fruit buds being selected for removal. These should be 
cut cleanly either with a pruning saw or sharp knife, and to within an 
inch of the main stems. Many of the old and ugly spurs thus treated 
will form fresh growths, and in time a cluster of fruiting spurs will be 
formed nearly close to the stems, or where they will get the full benefit 
of the shelter and heat afforded by the walls. Young shoots on fairly 
close and good fruiting spurs, whether they were shortened in the 
summer or not, ought now to be pruned, not being left much more than 
1 inch in length. Occasionally branches about 5 inches in length with 
a fruit bud at the point will be met with, and these may be preserved, 
especially if there are but few fruit buds discernible on the trees. 
These can be duly shortened next autumn or winter, or after their 
retention is of no further use, but rather a disfigurement. It is very 
unwise to crowd the main branches, and where they are less than 
12 inches apart (and it is no uncommon thing to see them not more 
than 8 inches apart) they ought to be considerably reduced in number, 
and the regulated so as to arrange them nearer 15 inches apart. The 
larger leaved varieties especially pay well for a little extra space being 
given them. 
Young Tear Trees. —Where more wall or trellis space remains to 
be furnished by espalier or horizontally trained trees, the leading branch 
of this should be shortened to a length of about 15 inches, this being 
required to provide another leader and two more side branches for laying 
in. It is not advisable to shorten the leader or any of the side branches 
till such time as their limit is reached, the only exception being where 
the second or summer shoot that some of them form is unripe, and which 
should be shortened to the well ripened portion. When strong leading 
shoots are shortened, however slightly, only the buds near the point can 
be depended upon to break, and then only wood is formed, whereas 
those well-ripened growths not pruned will usually break at every joint, 
not unfrequently forming a series of fruit buds. This fact should not 
be lost sight of by those who are commencing to train Pears on what is 
known as the cordon system. Whether the cordon-trained trees are con¬ 
fined to one stem, or better still, are furnished with from three to six 
main branches, the treatment is much the same, and is extremely simple. 
Allow the well-ripened leading shoots to extend as rapidly as possible, 
and if not unduly pruned, fruitfulness soon results. Quite young lateral 
growths should be well shortened back, and in time abundance of good 
fruiting spurs will result. The stems and main branches of healthy 
young Pear trees swell considerably in one season, and unless the various 
ligatures used in training and securing them are closely looked to, injury 
may and very often does accrue to the bark. The latter ought never to 
come into contact with nails especially or other hard substances, or it is 
almost certain to be injured either by friction or pressure, while quite a 
soft shred will nearly cut through a stem unless removed in time. The 
shreds or ties ought not to be very tight in the first instance, and should 
be removed directly it is seen they are likely soon to unduly prevent 
expansion. Broad leather or stout “trousering cords” are the best 
for heavy Tear trees, ordinary cloth shreds being of little avail for 
other than young wood. When wire trellising is used for training 
and supporting the trees, stout tar-twine is the best tying material, 
and young pliable Willow growths are frequently used for fastening 
the tre s. 
Simple Method of Inducing Fruitfulness. —Much restricted 
trees on the Pear stock usually form much surplus growth, and if this 
is anuually hard pruned very little fruit results>- In all cases where 
trees on the natural stock are planted, it is advisable to give these good 
room for extension, or otherwise nothing but severe root-prunings will 
cause fruitfulness. The simplest method of inducing a free bearing 
habit, where formerly nothing but wood was formed, is to adopt a com¬ 
plete change in the style of pruning. Instead of cutting back, or even 
only lightly pruning.the j oung growth, be content to merely thin out 
freely, leaving well ripened fairly strong shoots wherever there is good 
room for them to develope. This need not disfigure the trees, but on the 
contrary, the exercise of a little judgment will give them a more 
attractive appearance, as well as considerably extend the fruiting area. 
Nearly all the unpruned branches will, during the coming year, become 
thickly set with fruit buds, and in all probability this treatment will 
rapidly lead to a general fruitful habit. The thinning must be per¬ 
severed with, and two-year-old shoots may be prevented from extending 
when once got into a free bearing state. These remarks apply to either 
pyramid, bush, or standard trees. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. —Early Trees in Pots .—When the terminal buds have fairly 
started advantage may be taken of mild weather for increasing the 
temperature, as the Fig delights in a good heat, plenty of moisture, and 
all the light that can be secured. The increased temperature will be 
the more beneficial if it can be obtained from heat combined with solar 
influence by day in preference to making any great advance by night. 
The glass under any circumstances should be kept clean and as free as 
possible from condensed moisture by changing the atmosphere, especially 
in the early part of the day. Syringe the trees and walls twice a day 
according to the state of the weather, and damp the floors in the evening 
when the weather is dull and unfavourable to the afternoon syringing. 
See to the fermenting material, and if the heat exceeds 70° to 75° turn 
the material over as a means of reducing the bottom heat, and setting 
moisture at liberty. Maintain the night temperature at 55° to 60°, 
give a little air at 65° when the morning gives promise of an increase 
from sunshine, and keep through the day under sun heat at 70° to 75°, 
closing sufficiently early for the heat to rise to 80°. 
