18 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
[ January 6, 1888. 
if not s?,cure them at once. Tt is a mistake, and betokens had manage¬ 
ment, to have to wait for pots. Attention to these small matters are 
frequently of the utmost importance in achieving success. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Prepitring Covij)<)xts .—In most j)leasure gi'ounds one or more heaps 
■of rubbish are formed, and these accumulations ought to he turned to 
goo(.l account. Supposing all the sweepings, grass from the mowing 
machine, road and walk trimmings, leaves am I rubbish generally are all 
thrown together, all this in frosty weather f)r at any time when other 
important work has to be stopped, should be conii)letcly turneil and 
mixed, at the same time throwing out all sticks and other insoluble 
rubbish. The latter and as much useless wood as can be collected 
should be burnt and the ashes added to the big heap. In this manner a 
fairly valuable comjwst is creatcrl, and which will be found most suit- 
.able for mixing with the ordinary soil when trees and shrubs are planted. 
Very frequently such material is all that we have for either manuring 
or mulching the flower beds, and its use and early digging has gradually 
improved the character of our naturally heavy soil. 
Leaf Soil .—A bountiful supply of gootl leaf soil is unfortunately not 
avithin reach of half the gardeners in the country, and very many that 
might have abundance either neglect to save it or else spoil the leaves 
by allowing them to unduly heat themselves. Hotbeds invariably si)oil 
the leaves, and the very best leaf soil for all jmrposcs, and which is 
especially suitable for tender bedding plants is obtained from dry ditches 
in the woods. Where available this should be collected and used in pre¬ 
ference to any prepared somewhat artificially. If a mass of leaves has 
been collected, especially for leaf soil, this should be frequently 
turnetl in order to insure a regular and even decay without gene¬ 
rating any mould or fungus. It is the centres of the mass that is first 
overheated, and this literally spoils the whole heap. Frequent turnings 
prevent this and admit of all sticks and rubbish being separated from 
the leaves. Fairly good leaf soil will, in the course of two seasons, be 
formed in the deep holes filled with leaves, this being the method some¬ 
times adopted of getting rid of them. 
JIotbcdK fur Propagating Purpoi^en .—A hotbed formed of well-pre- 
jjared heating material, notably a mixture of leaves and stable manure, 
are most suitable for either raising plants from small seeds or cuttings. 
Where possible this hotbed should be placed in a forcing house or early 
vinery. The manure ought to be first thrown into a heap and allowed 
to ferment for a few days, being then turned inside out and again 
allowed to heat, and once more turned. When it has sweetened some¬ 
what mix manure and leaves together, and in the course of a week the 
heap ought to he ready for use. Either all manure or all leaves and all 
tan, or a mixture of tan and leaves may be usetl, anything in the way 
of a fermenting hotbed being preferable to the dry heat generated by 
ithe hot-water pipes. 
A Ustful Heap of Soil .—When the busy spring months arrive there 
is little time to spare in collecting soil suitable for surfacing seed Ixids, 
seed boxes, or for potting and boxing off a gi-eat variety of bedding 
plants. A large heap ought to be prepared in advance. Usually all the 
rubbish and old potting soil that accumulate under the ]X)tting bench 
is wheeled to a heap where it is well out of the way. This should be 
•screened or passed through a half-inch sieve, and the rubbish sorted 
over and as much of it as possible burnt. Then if this fine sandy heap 
is mixed with the soil removed from the surface of Cucumber and Melon 
betls a heap of really good compost results, a little good leaf soil and 
sand rendering it fit for almost any purpose connected with raising and 
■g.-owing bedding j)lants. 
Commencement of the Propagating Seaxoyi .—Many experienced a 
great difficulty in j)rocuring a sufficiency of bedding Pelargonium cut¬ 
tings, and will have to depend largely upon spring-struck plants. It is 
much too early to attempt striking cuttings, but when the early vinery 
is started all the old plants of Zonal Pelargoniums may well be started 
too. Hardwooded cuttings will not strike with any certainty, but if 
the old plants are induced to grow strongly sufficiently matured young 
shoots may be obtained for striking, and these in their turn will give a 
good cutting. As a rule the spring-struck plants flower quite as freely 
as those struck in the autumn, and those with variegated foliage arc 
frequently the best when rooted in the spring. Old or stock plants of 
Heliotro])es, Ageiatums, Vertenas, Abutilons, Petunias, and Marguerites 
if shortly introduced into gentle heat will soon give a batch of good 
•cuttings, and an early start be thus obtained. 
Plants! in Frames and Pits .—Where the bulk of the bedding plants 
are wintered in well heated houses and pits not much difficulty is ex¬ 
perienced in keeping them alive. Many, however, have yet to store a 
lot of plants in unheated frames and pits, and these are now having a 
trying time of it. Pelargoniums, whether in pots or boxes, ought to be 
kept quite dry at the roots for at least another six weeks, and have all 
decaying leaves removed whenever seen. Verbenas, Lobelias, Agera- 
tums. Heliotropes, and Petunias must not be allowed to flag for want of 
water, but even these ought to be kept on the dry side. All the water¬ 
ing neces.sary should be done in the mornings of clear days, and jdenty 
of air given at the back of the lights whenever the weather is not frosty. 
We have already had several severe frosts, but we usually experience the 
most penetrating in January. All frames and cold pits ought now to be 
surroundeel with tlry litter or leaves enclosed with hurdles, while the 
frames whenever severe frosts are anticipated should first be covered 
with either dry mats or old carpeting, these being covered with a good 
ilepth of strawy litter. It may be necessary to leave them closely 
•coveretl for a week or more, as it is unwise to uncover when the air is 
still frosty. Should the frost reach the plants at any time, however 
slightly, do not suddenly uncover, but allow them to thaw gradually 
and in the dark. Badly frozen {)lants should be freely damped over- 
hoarl with cold water, and then kept closely covered till thawal. A 
rapid thaw is most injurious. 
NOTES ON BEES. 
THE WEATHER. 
During the months of November and December the weather 
has been changeable, frost, snow, and rain alternating with extreme 
mildness for the season, the temperature often being above 50° Fahr. 
The lowest temperature during November was on the 24th, 
the thermometer registering 19°, and- the lowest during December 
was 10° on the 22nd in North Britain. On the last day of 
November and on the first day of December the thermometer stood 
above 50°, and the bees were alert, many of them on the wing, and 
a great number gathering water, evidence that, owing to the mild¬ 
ness, breeding had begun earlier than is usually the case. One 
hive in particular was very busy, and killed the last of its drones 
on the 1st of December. This hive, I believe, had a young queen, 
which, I believe, was fertilised as late as the 27th October, but I 
have not sufficient data at present to confirm this, but a few weeks 
will prove it, as the bees were half-bred Syrians, and the only 
drones living were Carniolian. In addition to the above hive, 
either two or three had preserved their drones until the two days 
mentioned. On the Ist of December I saw many searching for 
peameal as well as searching the Arabis, which is still in flower, a 
sure sign that breeding was going on, and that they still remem¬ 
bered the peameal site, although more than two months had 
elapsed since they had been supplied with any. The only other 
thing worth recording at present among my hives is one wintering 
on one comb. The bees of this hive had been neglected in feeding, 
and what they did get owing to the cold in October was stored in 
one comb, which the bees had built in the endeaveur to concentrate 
all the heat possible. I transfeired the comb and bees to a division 
of a square hive, adding a small super of honey on the top. The 
queen was deposed and a pure one introduced, and as this was the 
coldest day in November, minipulation was carried on inside at a 
temperature of 60°. When a hive is weak and showing signs of 
distress an apartment (with but one pane of glassj should be 
heated until the temperature is at least 60°, then the hive placed 
near the window so that the bees will readily creep back after they 
have rid themselves of all encumbrances. When the room is very 
warm more light may be admitted, and the bees will fly more 
readily, and although they rest upon the floor will all rise and 
return to their hive. The wintering of bees without combs is not 
new. Upwards of thirty years ago a swarm of bees were kept in 
an attic and regularly fed, with no comb whatever. 
HINTS TO BEE-KEEPERS. 
Hives properly and thoroughly prepared during September and 
October for the winter should not be disturbed or altered in site or 
appearance, and if previous instructions have been attended to, 
need not be meddled with until April or May, and probably not 
even then. Beware of shading hives during snow, if the bees have 
their liberty, as the slightest obstruction near their hive mars 
them, and many bees are lost, so that the cure is here worse than 
the disease. Snow is the greatest enemy we have to contend with, 
but is most dreaded after the days lengthen, when the temperature 
is likely to rise above freezing. So long as it is below freezing little 
danger may be apprehended. With our ventilating floors bees are 
easily managed during spring snowstorms, but hives without these 
run a great risk in being shut in during the time snow lies on the 
ground. The safety valve lies in darkening the entrance, ventilating 
