52 
journal of horticulture and cottage gardener. 
[ January 19, 1888. 
• 
colour a rich combination of deep crimson and old gold. Mr. and Mrs 
H. Cannell are two superb sorts, the former a nobly built yellow, and 
the latter a creamy white of handsome proportions ; these three varieties 
will help to win in many a future floral fight. C. Orchard, something 
like Comte de Germiny in colour, but flatter in build, and Mr. Wellam, a 
white with bright rose splashes, must also be added to all collections. 
The value of these importations make one hope the energetic firm above 
mentioned will secure for us all that “ white elephant ” among 
Chrysanthemums—we mean the “ blue ” variety, the charms of which 
are said to be gazed upon only by a few favoured worshippers in 
Japan. 
We have not seen Avalanche, but a new one that can win premier 
honours, as this did at the late Portsmouth Show amongst so many 
beauties must be a gain indeed. Edouard Audiguier in form, colour, 
habit of growth, and constancy is first class, and is already a favourite. 
No one seems to have grown it so well as its introducers, Messrs. Davis 
and Jones. That winner of so many certificates, Ralph Brocklebank, a 
light yellow sport from the well-known Meg Merrilies, needs mention 
only, although “ Meg ” is not the style of bloom to our taste comparable 
to the best of all Japanese varieties, Mdlle. Lacroix. The white of this 
fascinating flower may not be like that of Elaine, “ pure as the driven 
snow,” but its graceful and captivating form make it “a thing of beauty 
and a joy for ever,” while the plant is sure in producing its charms and 
is of easy culture. Carew Underwood, sported from Baronne de Frailly, 
is a variety of great excellence, of a lively colour of bronzy red, and in 
all ways equal to its parent. Florence Percy, sent out last year, is an 
elegant pure white variety, with thread-like florets, very large and full 
from early buds. Mrs. J. Wright is another white which gains in favour 
as it becomes more widely known, and like the foregoing produces the 
finest flowers from crown buds. Were it not for its early character 
Phoebus would make a telling variety on an exhibition stand ; however, 
it must be grown for the richness of its yellow and for the grace of its 
form. We find it lasts a very short time in perfection. In Gloriosum 
we have a large flower in the way of Soleil Levant, but finer, although 
the colour is less bright and striking. Roi des Japonaise, a useful addi¬ 
tion, opening bright orange red in colour, and when fully developed 
fading at the tips of florets a deep yellow. Mdlle. Blanche Pigny was 
«een this year in many stands, and will gain in popularity, notwith¬ 
standing that we have so many good whites in the field. The flower is 
well formed and of good substance. About the best of the French in¬ 
troductions of the present year is Mr. Garnar. Its florets are drooping, 
the flower full and clear, bright yellow in colour. Duke of Berwick 
will make a handsome exhibition bloom, colour white tinted rose with 
thread-like florets. Hamlet, salmon red, is also well worth growing. To 
judge the per-centage of “ wheat ” we find among the French “ chaff,” it 
may be mentioned that the last three are selected from about 100 
new varieties ; still, in justice to them, a few more may turn out good 
after a further trial. Our raisers across channel are evidently taking 
the tide at the flood, which, we are told, leads on to fortune.— 
H. Shoesmith, Saltwood, Ilytlie. 
CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE. 
fA paper read by Mr. Edwin Eecketf, gardener to H. H. Gibbs, E-q., Aldenham House, 
Eistree, before the last nionthiy meeting of tbe St. Albans’ Horticultural Society.] 
As the Rose is considered to be the queen of the summer flowers, 
which undoubtedly it is, so I claim for the Chrysanthemum the title of 
queen of the autumn flowers, and no plant in cultivation has made 
such rapid progress during the last few years as this. The Chinese, or 
incurved section, was introduced from China somewhere about the 
year 1704, but it seems to have found but little favour till within the 
last twenty or thirty years. Now nearly every town holds its annual 
exhibition. As a mark of its increasing popularit]’-, mention may be 
made of this year’s Portsmouth Show, where, during the last three 
hours of the second day, no less than 8109 visitors paid for admission. 
And this is no exception, for wherever good exhibits are brought together, 
as a rule, they are well patronised. The later introductions from Japan 
have had much to do with this. They have such a striking appearance, 
the diversity of form and richness of colour making them most welcome 
during the dull months of November and December. They are also very 
easily grown. Anyone possessing a small garden might have a rich 
display in autumn, and Chrysanthemum growing, when once taken in 
hand, will not easily be given up. It is not always those possessing the 
best means who obtain the best results ; the flower must be carefully 
studied, tenderly cared for, and success will follow in nine cases out 
of ten. 
Having met with a fair amount of success, both as a cultivator and 
exhibitor, I will now proceed with what I believe to be the best mode of 
cultiviitiou, and will first deal with plants grown for fine flowt-rs. From 
the middle of December to the first week in January I consider to be 
the best time to commence proj-agation. As there are so many varieties 
cultivated, it is necessary for the beginner to make a selection of the 
best and most popular sorts before starting, which is easily done by 
noting down at the exhibitions those varieties generally staged by the 
most successful competitors, and I would advise growing only a limited 
number of sorts, according to requirements, two or three each of the 
best, rather than a host of uncertain varieties. I have tried several 
methods of striking, but have found the safest and best way is to devote 
to them a light or two of a pit divided by a temporary wooden partition, 
with hot-water pipes running through filled with finely sifted coal ashes 
as near the glass as the pots will allow. 1 much object to cold frames. 
although I am aware that many growers recommend them, for the 
reason, that owing to the bad weather we are likely to have at this 
season, it is necessary to keep them closed and covered, perhaps for 
weeks together, hence the cuttings must suffer from damp, and at the 
same time remain in almost dormant condition. To obtain satisfactory 
results, the plants should be kept in a healthy condition from the time 
the cuttings are inserted until the flowering season comes round. The 
soil to be used should consist of equal parts of light fibrous loam and 
leaf mould, with a good addition of sharp silver sand. Use large 60-size 
pots with a little moss or rough loam placed over the drainage to keep it 
clean and sweet. Fill the pots moderately firm, and place a little silver 
sand on the top. Insert four cuttings in each, which must be cleanly 
cut, and not rooted suckers, choosing the most sturdy ; label, water, and 
place them in the pit already prepared. For a few weeks they will 
require but very little attention, except a sprinkle most mornings when 
the weather is bright. 
Some sorts will be found to root much more quickly than others. 
These should be taken out as they commence starting into growth, and 
placed either in a cold frame or on a light airy shelf in the greenhouse. 
The whole stock should be ready for transferring into large 60-pots by 
the end of January or the first week in February. Arrange them in a 
cold frame facing south on a bed of coal ashes. The soil for this potting 
should be the same as before advised. Thoroughly water in, and keep 
them close for a few days, taking care to protect them from frost. 
Ventilate freely as the plants commence growing, and remove the lights 
on all favourable occasions during the day. Nothing tends to strengthen 
and keep them in good health like fresh air. By the last week in March 
they should be ready for 6-inch pots. The soil now should consist of 
two parts of good fibrous loam, one part well-decayed horse or cow 
manure, one part leaf mould, with a good addition of coarse sand and a 
few half-inch bones. Place a neat stake to each plant, and return them 
to the cold frame, treating them as before mentioned. At the end of 
April, if the weather is favourable, move them outside to a sheltered 
position, the foot of a south wall or fence will suit them admirably. 
Let them stand well clear from each other on slate or boards to keep 
the drainage perfect. 
The final potting should be made the first or second week in June. 
I recommend 8-inch pots, which are large enough for all kinds, but, a 
few of the strongest-growing may be placed in 10-inch pots. The 
compost for this potting should be three parts best loam, one part 
decayed manure, with a good addition of bonemeal. Drain well, nsing 
a thin la 3 ’er of fibre taken from the loam over the drainage, which 
should be clean crocks and half-inch bones. If the soil is in a good 
state it is impossible to pot too firmly, using the potting stick freely, 
securing them with a longer and stronger stake before leaving the 
potting shed, and take them to wherever they are intended to remain 
for the summer months. The most suitable and convenient place, if to 
be had, is an open and airy position by the side of a walk where they 
get the full benefit of the sun during the whole day, and if neatly 
arranged and kept tied, they are far from being unsightly. Make them 
secure against the wind by driving in strong stakes a short distance 
apart, straluine wire or strong string to fix the plants to. Syringe 
freely every fine afternoon. As the plants advance in growth, and as 
the pots become filled with roots, liquid manure must b(! applied at 
every other watering. Attend to thinning out the shoots, allowing but 
three or four to a plant, according to their strength and variety. 
Taking the buds is a source of great anxiety even to the most expe¬ 
rienced cultivators, as sorts differ so much as to the time it takes them 
to expand. Experience alone can make one perfect in this, but gene¬ 
rally for those that are required about the middle of November, I have 
found the last week in August to the second in September the best time. 
From three to six flowers must be left if extra large blooms are desired, 
and the central bud always to be left. Disbudding should be performed 
by a steady hand ami keen eye. A small pointed stick is what I use, 
taking them away when the buds are large enough, exercising great 
care not to damage the remaining bud. By the first week in October all 
should be safely housed, and when first t,aken in allow them as much 
room and air as possijole. As they get acclimatised they may be stood 
as closely together as the pots will allow. When water is required 
always apply it in the morning. A little fire heat in damp cold weather 
will greatly help to improve the quality of the flowers, particularly the 
Japanese, and with a little top ventilation will act as a preventive 
against damping. 
(To be continued.) 
UNDER GARDENERS AND EXHIBITORS. 
These are no doubt good and bad gardeners, but if we are to believe 
all that some of your correspondents say on this subject it would point to 
the fact that they are most extortionate men. My experience enables 
me to entertain quite a different opinion. I have served under several, 
and as a rule 1 have found them just and even generous. 1 am inclined 
to think the instances which “ A Lover of Fairplay ” has mentioned about 
young men having to pay their own expenses when assisting at flower 
shows are very rare. At the same time, a young man who is thoi’oughly 
interested in his work, and who keeps his eyes open, may fiiul many a 
show worth paying a reasonable fare to see, arid may bo materially 
benefited bj'^ it in the future. As to night work, 1 think a man who 
objects to working an hour or two in the evening at a busy time, or 
to prepare for exhibitions, cannot enter into his work with the will and 
energy that is required to make a competent gardener of the present 
