January 26 , 1888. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
73, 
WOKK.Foil’™ WEEK. O 
I 
'RUIT FORCING. 
of 
Vines. — Earliest-forced Ifotises .—The earliest Vines will require 
careful attention now. Remove all loose and duplicate bunches, 
thinning the berries as soon as they are w-ell formed. If there is no 
fermenting material in the house charge the evaporation troughs with 
liquid manure, or 1 lb. guano to twenty gallons of water, and the borders 
and other available surfaces may be sprinkled witli the same at the time 
of closing the house or early in the afternoon. Where results are of 
more consequence than appearance a portion of the fermenting materials 
may be removed and the whole of the inside border surfaced with 
thoroughly sweetened dung from the stables, which should be turned 
over several times before it is introduced, or the ammonia will be too 
strong for the tender foliage, which may, however, be obviated by 
admitting a little air by the top lights to allow any excess of steam to 
pass ofi, as it will in a day or two. The inside border before being 
covered with the sweetened stable litter must have a good supply of 
tepid water, not exceeding 90°. This with the leaves in an active 
state will incite root-action, and the berries will swell freely. Avoid cold 
currents of air, also steam arising from highly heated pipes, both being 
prolific of rust. The heat of fermenting material on outside borders 
must not be allowed to decline, but should be renewed as required. 
■Where no fermenting materials are used care should be taken to prevent 
the roots in outside borders becoming chilled by cold rains or snowq 
having wooden shutters or tarpaulin so disposed as to throw off the rain 
or melted snow. Attention will be required in tying the shoots and in 
stopping the laterals. It is assumed the shoots have been stopped two or 
more joints beyond the fruit. Where the space is restricted they may 
have been pinched to one or two joints, and in any case the axillary 
growths may be stopped at the first leaf, and to one leaf afterwards as 
fresh growth is made. If this is likely to interfere with the principal 
leaves the axillary growths may be rubbed off except from the two 
lowest leaves, those above the fruit being stopped to one joint. It is of 
the utmost importance that the principal foliage be fully exposed to 
light and air, overcrowding and overcropping being highly prejudicial ; 
at the same time very close stopping is not to be recommended where 
there is room for extension, as an increase of foliage promotes corre¬ 
sponding root-action, therefore preserve all the foliage consistent with its 
full exposure to light. 
Early Forced Vines in Pot-^. —Afford copious supplies of tepid liquid 
manure. Thin the bunches somewhat freely, so as to induce larger 
berries, not, however, going to the extreme of making the bunches loose, 
though that is better than small berried clusters. The temperature 
should be maintained at 65° at night, falling to 60° on cold mornings, 
65° to 70° by day, admitting air at 75°, increasing the temperature with 
sun heat to 80° or 85°, closing the house at 80° with a prospect of an ad¬ 
vance to 85° or 90°, at the same time damping the house. Damping is 
also necessary in the early part of the day. Great care is necessary in 
ventilating. During such weather as we have lately experienced air 
should be admitted in moderate quantity, a little at a time, so as not to 
reduce the temperature much, but to prevent its rising suddenly. 
Houses in which Vines are in bloom should have a steady night 
temperature of 65°, 70° to 75° by day bj^ artificial means, and 5° to 10° 
more from sun heat. Muscats 5° higher all round. Black Muscat and 
other varieties liable to set indifferently may be assisted by tapping the 
bunches every dajq or more certainly by applying ripe pollen, drawing 
a brush lightly over the bunches. A constant circulation of dry warm 
air is conducive to a good set, and it is advisable not to stop the growth 
closely during the setting period. 
Vines Started Early in the Year .—Syringe the rods twice a day 
until the bunches are formed, when it is best discontinued ; but main¬ 
tain atmospheric moisture by damping the paths and borders three times 
a day. Increase the temperature to 55° at night and 60° to 6.5° by day, 
with an advance from sun heat to 75°, with ventilation in accordance 
with the state of the external air. Avoid damping the hot-water pipes 
when they are highly heated, the steam arising therefrom being very 
different from that given off by cooler surface.s. Keep up a supply 
of ammonia in all the houses by turning over the fermenting n.aterials 
and adding fresh horse droppings, or if this be objected to the house 
may be sprinkled with liquid manure, the evaporation troughs being 
kept filled with the same. Ammonia vapour not only aids the growth 
and texture of foliage, but is inimical to red spider. 
Jlcnses for Affordiny Pipe drupes in .Tuly. —Start the Vines not 
later than the beginning of next month. There is no need to cover the 
outside border with fermenting material, but a covering of leaves or 
litter is necessary to prevent chill. A bed of fermenting material in¬ 
side the house conduces to a good break by securing a uniform mois¬ 
ture. Syringe the rods three times a day, maintaining the temperature 
at 50° at night, and 65° by day with sun heat. Water inside borders 
with liquid manure at 90°, and repeat as neces.sary so as to bring the 
.soil into a thoroughly moist state. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND RLE A SURE GROUND. 
Tuberous Begonias. —Late in .January or early in February is the 
best time for sowing the seed of Tuberous Begonias. Not only does 
such minute seed germinate more surely when sown before much hot 
sunshine and drying winds are experienced, but an early start insures 
the requisite strong growth before bedding-out time. Fill well-drained 
pans with light sandy compost, make the surface fairly firm, smooth, 
and level, cover with silver sand, and moisten thoroughly through a 
fine-rose pot. When dried somewhat, or say in the course of three 
hours, sow the seed evenly and carefully, dust a little dry sand over the 
seed, but do not bury it deeply. Cover closely with a square of glass, 
and plunge the pans in a gentle hotbed. If shaded, or closely darkened, 
no water ought to be needed till the seed has germinated. It is the 
careless watering that is often to blame for failures to raise seedling 
Begonias, this dislodging the seed when perhaps just on the point of 
sprouting. Dryness may end equally bad, and if the surface needs 
moistening at any time, whether before or after germinating, it is most 
safely accomplished by partially immersing the pans in a tank or 
pail of tepid water. As soon as the seedlings show themselves thickly 
all over the pan, gradually dispense with the shading, and wait till rough 
leaves are formed before pricking off into pans of fine soil. Strong 
tubers intehded for bedding out may be examined and cleared of any 
decaying stems, but they ought to be kept cool and rather dry for at 
least another two months. 
Lobelias. —-Excellent and very reliable strains of bedding Lobelias 
are sold by the principal seedsmen, and seedlings being much more 
easily obtained than are plants from cuttings, are now usually solely 
relied upon, L. Erinus erecta and speciosa are good, and pumila 
magnifica can also be recommended, these being the most dwarf. 
Various shades of colour can be bought, but as a rule a good blue is 
the most serviceable and effective. The Lobelia seed again is very 
small, and we prepare the pans, sow the seed, and otherwise treat it 
much the same as advised in the case of Tuberous Begonia^. The seed 
being new and sound will all germinate, and when sown very thickly 
the seedlings are liable to damp off wholesale. Better, therefore, to sow 
the seed thinly in two or three pans rather than crowd it together into 
one. The seedlings ought to be well exposed to the light, and set on a 
shelf in a lower temperature for a time prior to pricking off. Old plants 
kept for the purpose of affording a supply of cuttings or for division 
should be kept in a rather cool house or frame, or otherwise the tops 
will be spindly, as well much given to flowering. Examine them 
frequently, and remove any decaying portion, or this will quickly 
spoil the whole plant. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The Fiest Caeeot Ceop. —If early Carrots are appreciated there 
will be a general desire to have them ready for drawing as soon as 
possible. ‘VFhen about the thickness of one’s thumb in March or April 
they are delicious, and all who can muster a hotbed and frame may have 
them ready then. They are easily grown. A thick substantial hotbed 
should be formed, place a frame on this, and then fill 8 inches or 
10 inches of soil. This should be prepared for the Carrots. Ordinary 
garden soil will do for part of it, but it shoukl be mixed with a quantity 
of sand and a little decayed manure. A quantity of soot should also be 
mixed with the soil before putting it into the frame, as it would never 
do to go to the expense of preparing a bed and then allow the roots 
to be destroyed by grubs, but the soot will keep them away. Make the 
soil firm and smooth, and sow the seed carefully broadcast. As a rule 
we cover the seed with sand to the depth of 1 inch. Do not give water, 
as the moisture from the manure will be sufficient. Should much frost 
come protect by covering the glass lights. The young plants will be 
visible in a fortnight or so, and then they may be ventilated a little on 
fine days. French Horn is generally regarded as the best early Carrot, 
but Sutton’s New Early Gem is superior. 
Beoad Beans. —These are not so extensively grown as Peas, but the 
majority of garden owners desire a few early dishes, and as they grow 
freely without heat in the open, and come in at a time when early 
vegetables are not plentiful, a few rows always give satisfaction. For 
exhibition and main crop Webb’s Kinver Mammoth is unique, but it is 
not so early as Early Mazagan, and a row or two of the latter should be 
sown for a first crop. We have sown our early Peas on a south border 
in rows 8 feet or 9 feet apart, and placed a row of Broad Beans between 
them with good results, and they may also be sown by themselves in 
any warm corner. From one to two pints of seed will make a good 
plantation. The ground may be heavy, and it should always be rich. 
Do not sow deeper than -t inches below the surface. 
PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.—No. 28. 
The simplest methods of performing necessary manipulations are 
ever the most valuable. The saving of time is of itself no inconsider¬ 
able matter, and if to simplicity of method is added certainty of 
success the bee-keeper must indeed be happy. The weary work of 
introducing queens by the ordinary method is too uncertain to give 
anything but anxiety to the amateur bee-keeper. Success does 
generally result if the manipulation is properly performed, but 
