100 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER^ 
[ Febrnary !>, 188a. 
way into the market it is di.ficult to sell the Cabbage, however 
good or well grown it may be. Hardy Hammersmith and All the 
\ ear Round are the two grown. I place very little dependance in 
these, and only regard them as a catch crop. Those who have 
sheltered positions, and who reside in moderately dry localities, 
may do very well with them. I have given up autumn planting, 
simply because all the plants died. The plants are kept in frames 
and placed out at the same time as the Cos Lettuces, but the former 
are planted so that we are certain of a remunerative crop from the 
ground if we miss the market. Those who go in for marketing 
must watch the market, for it is no use going with Cabbage Lettuces 
when somebody else is taking Cos Lettuces. This means 4d. a dozen, 
perhaps 2d., while your neighbour realises a shilling from the same 
extent of ground, and with the e.xpenditure of no more labour. 
I have been caught napping, and selling at the lowest price very 
soon taught me to watch the market and mend my ways. How I 
did so will be detailed, but it necessitated some outlay, which I 
managed to recover the first season, and was very well paid into the 
bargain. There is no better variety to grow than a good selection 
of Paris White. Hick’s Hardy is hardier, but it needs tying, no 
small objection for those growing for the market. Veitch’s Cos is 
a favourite, and may take the place of Paris White when the seed 
is cheaper. But those who want it do as I have done —buy a packet 
of seed, and if it meets with approval select some of the best and 
save the seed. Those who wish to make the most of things will 
be wise in saving the seed of any variety that suits their purpose. 
Cos Lettuces to pay should be grown 1 foot apart each way. At 
a shilling a dozen they pay well, and the grower will not lose much 
if he has half that price later in the season. Those that have not 
sturdy plants in a frame to start with may sow at once in boxes in 
heat if they have glass, and then prick them off into frames ; or 
better still, make a hotbed roughly, place 2 inches of soil over it, 
and then sow the seed. Do not sow too thickly, and then from 
this position they can be planted out. Those sown in autumn are 
pricked out at this season of the year singly into frames, home 
made, no matter how rough they are—a little protection only is 
needed. 
For these early crops of Lettuce it is natural to ask whether we 
plant large plots close together, a foot apart in the row and between 
the plants, and our answer is. Not generally. Although some are 
grown on this principle, another crop always follows. The best 
and most convenient method is to plant in rows 2 feet apart, and 
1 foot between the plants. Between these French Beans are sown, 
and when the Lettuces are removed they occupy the whole of the 
ground. Between young Strawberry plantations we always take 
Cos Lettuces early in the season. The early crops are planted so 
that they can be followed by others. Lettuces may be sown until 
the end of the first week in June, at intervals of three weeks from 
the time they are first sown outside. At one time we only gi-ew 
early ones, and left later crops in the hands of others, because we 
thought they might miss by bolting during hot dry weather. But 
now that we have south borders and north borders in what was 
once an open field we manage to have good crops that pay from the 
north borders during hot summer w'eather. Our latest crop is 
from a south border. Our early Cabbages are taken from a south 
border planted between early Potatoes 2 feet apart. One word 
more—to grow good Lettuces quickly the gi-ound must be fertile 
and well manured. 
I had not started marketing long before I found that not only 
must I have Cabbage Lettuces earlier to pay, but Potatoes also to 
equalise the price of this crop if possible, and to have some of the 
“ plums ” I thought foreigners, or somebody else, were getting by 
suppljdng the market before I was ready. I was not content with 
5s. a hamper (a hundredweight) down to 3s., when somebody else 
was getting from 8s. to 10s. for the same weight. I also wanted to 
grow Tomatoes, and had no favourable position outside. At last I 
succeeded, but how I managed to do so must form the subject of 
my next contribution. —M.vkketer. 
THE CULTURE OF HARDY FRUITS. 
( Continued from page 78.') 
The Peach and Nectarine, as far as cultivation is concerned, may 
be classed as one fruit, both requiring the same treatment. Of late 
years the Peach out of doors has been to a great extent very much- 
neglected, and through a variety of causes, but chiefly the un¬ 
favourable seasons for some years past, there has been partial or 
entire failure of the crops. Where good cultivation has not been 
neglected a fair measpre of success has been obtained, which shows, 
conclusively tliat the bad seasons we have experienced of late years; 
are not altogether the cause of failure. That some places are more 
favourable for their successful cultivation than others cannot be; 
disputed. Some are naturally well suited to their wants, while others 
are not, and require to be made suitable if success is desired. 
The requisites are a well drained substantial soil, a south, south¬ 
east, or south-west aspect, a good wall, and a border of about 5 feet 
well raised up well mulched with manure. The shoots must be 
thinly disposed, the leaves free from all insects, and the blooms- 
protected from frost, then a good crop of fruit might be annually 
expected from the greater portion of the country. Glass copings- 
were at one time considered favourable for protection, but the trees- 
are often better without them. 
The Plum, Cherry, and Apricot require similar treatment, the 
Apricot needing the warmest aspect, but all the stone fruit appear 
to do equally well in the same kind of soil, and that which is rather 
heavy and contains lime naturally, or which has had it applied,, 
seems to be the best suited to their wants, with the borders kept 
well mulched and not disturbed in any way after the trees are 
planted. The wood as it is made should be allowed ample space to- 
receive full share of light, and crowding of the branches and shoots 
should at all times be avoided. Some think the more shoots the. 
more fruit, but such is not the case, and the contrary is mostly the 
result. The Morello Cherry is often seen thickly nailed to the 
walls, and frequently half the fruit falls during the stoning process. 
Although the Morello bears mostly on the young shoots they should- 
not be deprived of sufficient space. I have seen trees that have 
been tied year after year each shoot over another until the wall 
even in winter time was scarcely visible. What a fine cover for 
insects ! The fruit when too thick on the Plums and Apricots must 
be duly thinned, especially the larger varieties of Plums, if fine fruit 
is desired. 
The Strawberry is an important fruit in most gardens both for 
dessert and preserving, and is generally fairly well cultivated ; and 
like most other things there is more ways than one of attaining the 
same end in its successful culture. To obtain good results the 
necessary labour must not be neglected in the first place. The 
Strawberry requires a good soil, which should be dug 2 feet deep,, 
adding as much manure as will form a good coating in each trench 
as it is turned over, and previous to planting should be made very 
firm. Strong runners layered into small pots and planted out as- 
soon as well rooted make good plants and fruit well the following 
season. In tran.sferring the plants to their permanent quarters see 
that they are previously well watered, and in planting the soil 
should be well rammed with a blunt stick round the plants, and a 
hollow space be left round each plant to hold water that may be 
applied after planting if needed. The distance apart can be regu¬ 
lated by the strength of the variety and the kind of soil they are 
planted in. After planting no disturbance of the soil must take 
place other than by hoeing to keep down weeds, all runners to be 
removed as they appear if not wanted. Early in the winter, as 
soon as frost renders wheeling on the ground an easy matter, a good- 
mulching of long stable manure should be given them, which will 
answer more purposes than one. I invariably find the finest fruit is 
produced on maiden plants, and if a plantation is made annually no 
difficulty will result in obtaining good fruit. In growing specially 
for preser-ving the small fruiting sorts it is not necessary that re¬ 
course be had to such high culture, as it is a waste of time in trying 
to grow small varieties to a large size. Small berries with firm flesh 
are those which are held in the highest esteem for preserving pur¬ 
poses. On very light ground Strawberries (if very fine fruit is 
required) must be planted annually, as they do not, as a rule, pro¬ 
duce such large fruit unless extra means in the shape of watering 
with liquid manure is bestowed upon them. 
The Raspberry is highly esteemed in most gardens for various 
purposes, and generally succeeds in most soils, but, like the majority 
of fruits, pays for good culture. Once the ground is properly 
prepared it need not be moved again after the canes are planted.. 
When planted, the canes should be cut down near to the ground. 
Various ways of supporting the canes are adopted, but the best 
way is to have two wires along each row, fastened to stout 
posts, and if the canes are tied to these, about 9 inches apart, 
they will have ample room. As soon as the fruit is gathered, the 
canes that have borne fruit, together with the surplus young ones. 
