Febnmry 16 , 1888. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
133 
occupied with Allamandas ; Hcndersoni, nobilis, Schotti, chekoni, and 
grandiflora are all grown. Eucharis, Dendrobiutns, and small Palms 
occupy the stages. The orangery is filled with specimens in tubs (the 
largest 9 feet by 7 feet), and include the Maltese Blood, Jaffa, Brazilian, 
Otaheite, and Tangeiine, the flowers and fruits from those being highly 
appreciated. There are also fine Lemons and Citrons. The Peach trees 
and Vines are in fine condition, all recently jilanted and carrying 
splendid cro[)s. The fruit garden is well stocked with pyramid Pears 
and Apples, Kibston Pippin and Cox’s Orange being the favourite 
varieties. Quinces, Medlars, Mulberries, and Blackberries are also 
grown, and the kitchen garden has the stamp of goofl management 
throughout. 
Much more might be written about this interesting garden, but 
enough has been said to show its owner is a generous patron of horticul¬ 
ture. The gardens are under the management of Mr. A. Greaves, who 
is to be congratulated on the condition of everything under his charge. 
—VlSlTOH. 
In every garden, large or small. Moss Roses should be accorded a 
position. However beautiful other Roses may be, none surpasses or are 
more admired than the blooms of these charming Roses. Although 
there are numbers of varieties, there are not more than four that are 
really worth growing, except perhaps as objects in the shrubbery and 
other borders. The two best are the Old Moss and IVhite Bath. These 
two are true Moss Roses. None of the others can be compared with 
them for the quantity or beauty of the moss that surrounds their buds. 
The Crested Moss is most peculiar, and should be included by all who 
grow Moss Roses. 
For climbing up a pillar or for covering a fence, Baron de Wassenaer 
IS decidedly the most suitable. It flowers freely when grown on this 
principle, and the blooms, which are produced in clusters, are fairly 
well mossed. Gloire des Mousseuses forces better than any other 
variety. Although Moss Roses are not well adapted for very early 
forcing, this one flowers freely, and may be had in presentable con¬ 
dition after the middle of March, and it is even more beautiful than 
when allowed to flower naturally outside. 
Lanei is conspicuous for its colour, and being a good grower is well 
adapted for shrubbery borders. The buds are not well mossed, besides 
the moss surrounding them is too dark and too short to present such a 
charming appearance as either of those first named. This has also 
another great defect, for it appears to be a general favourite with 
aphides. The buds are very gummy, and are the first to be attacked. 
This objectionable feature is not decreased afterwards. 
Blanche Moreau came out with ithe highest credentials, but those 
who grow it by the side of White Bath will find that it cannot be com¬ 
pared with that excellent variety. It is, however, worth a place in the 
snrubbery border, for it is one of the strongest growers. It quickly 
forms a large and imposing bush ; it flowers freely if the wood is well 
ripened and not pruned too severely. Although a strong grower it is 
aimost certain to be severely attacked by mildew. It has always been 
one of the first in our moderately light soil, while the Old Moss and 
n hite Bath have not been attacked. 
All the varieties named do very well worked on the Briar, except the 
two old ones, which do not appear to grow freely. With us at least 
they do best on their own roots. Both are W'eak growers, but in rich 
fertile soil they push up moderately strong shoots from the base. I 
have grown nearly every variety, and find all do well when planted the 
same as other Roses, except the two I have recommended as the best, 
which appear to do best when they are practically laid in or planted in 
a sloping direction, being careful not to bury the roots deeply. By this 
method they appear to throw up best from the base. Celini has proved 
the poorest grower of all, for it failed with us both on its own roots and 
worked. 
In pruning Moss Roses we have found it to be the best policy to 
prune rather severely. All the weakest shoots should be cutback to one 
eye, while strong ones for pegging down should be cut back to within 
u inches. We prefer to plant closer together than would be 
the case if the shoots were left nearly their whole length when pegged 
down. Baron de Wassenaer, although it flowers freely when but 
slightly pruned, his a tendency to become bare towards the base unless 
the shoots are trained as much as possible in a horizontal position after 
pruning. This induces the back eyes to bre.ak freely, which not only 
insures more buds, but the growths starting from the base upon which 
the flowers will be produced the following season.—B. P. 
SOUVENIR DE LA MALMAI30N. 
In most ganlens this grand old Bourbon Rose is generally seen and 
treated as a dwarf, being pruned closely back every year. I think it is 
not generally known that it is a splendid Rose for training to a pillar 
or against a wall. Even for this purpose it is not necessary that it 
should have a sunny or warm asjiect, for it will grow and flower 
amazingly even on a north wall. Until that severe winter of a few 
years ago, when the thermometer fell below zero, we had a plant that 
had reached a height of If feet against a wall with a north-eastern 
aspect; and although this would not be regarded a favourable position 
it was sadly overshaded bj’- Hollies. In spite of this, however, it flowers 
profusely twice yearly, in early summer and again in autumn, in fact 
long after slight frosts have set in. In some seasons I have gathered 
very creditable Roses from this tree in December. Although I had 
alxiut a hundred of this variety on the Briar and upon their own roots, 
this old plant always produced the largest blooms. 
Although the Bourbons are lookal upon as rather tender Roses, and 
are recommended generally to be planted in light rich soil, it has 
struck me that it may be the better treatment that renders them less 
hardy than they would otherwise be. I.ight rich soil unquestionably 
encourages a soft succulent gro\rth that cannot endure severe weather. 
The old tree to Which I have referred must have braved many a wdnter, 
and probably this was largely due to the gootl soil in which it was 
growing. It was planted in a narrow bbrtler about 10 inches wider 
with a number of other varieties, and to my knowledge had no manure 
applietl to its roots for over ten years. From this border it could 
ramble into a gravel walk, and beyond this there are no attractions that 
would induce the roots to travel. No doubt the wootl made was firm, 
although the aspect was not favourable for ripening it well, and the 
firmness of the wood may be the secret of the fine flowers it used to 
produce.—R. G. W. 
SHORTENING SEEDLING BRIAR ROOTS. 
A COERESPONDENT in a recent issue seemed to be in favour of 
planting the seedling Briar without cutting or shortening the tap roots. 
In his case evidently the tap root is no drawback. But really it is so. 
If this correspondent wishes to get the same effect which would be 
produced by leaving the roots of the Briars long he has only to plant 
ordinary-grown plants about 18 inches deep. He may try this for one 
season ; after that I think he will discover that what Canon, or rather 
Dean, Hole says in his “ Book on Roses ” is correct. What the Dean 
says is, “ Plant as near the surface as possible ; deep planting means 
disease, debility, and death ” I say ditto to that. The soil I cultivate, 
where I have grown Roses for some years, is a barren rock on which 
long cultivation has accumulated about (5 inches of soil. During the 
dry burning season we had in 1887 my Roses, plantetl near the surface, 
while they no doubt suffered a great deal, in my opinion did much 
better than if they had been planted, or rather buried, deeper.— 
D. Gilmoue, jun. 
BUDDING ROSES ON SEEDLING BRIAR. 
A CORRESPONDENT “ R.” (page 8()), asks for information on this 
subject. I have read somewhere directions for cooking a hare, which 
begin “ First catch your hare.” I am afraid my friend is somewhat in 
the position of the cook who has not yet caught the hare. If the seed 
were dried—that is, not sown immediately it was gathered—it will most 
probably not germinate for eighteen months, by which time “ R.” will 
hate the sight of the box in which he has sowni the seed. I do not need, 
I thiidv, under the circumstances, to go on to give directions as to the 
budding of the Briars which are yet to grow, there will be time enough 
for that this time next year. The best jilan “ R.” can follow is to sow 
the seed outside in a bed, and when the Briars gi-ow and are strong 
enough they may be budded whore they grow, or transplanted at any 
time of the year when Roses are inoved. No doubt the richer the 
land where the Briars are sown the stronger will be the growth.— 
D. Gilmoue, jun. 
OLD AND NEW LAWNS. 
The value of lawns for-nse and ornament depends chiefly on the 
keeping, though some, through natural advantages of situation, give no 
trouble as compared with others less favourably located. Our climate 
and soil are peculiarly favourable to grasses, so that there is no excuse 
for a bad lawn in any position in these islands. Daisies, Plantains, and 
other weeds are a great disfigurement, and equally objectionable are the 
coarser grasses. Moss in many may be seen very much more abundant 
than grass, and lichen is not absent in some cases. There is no satis¬ 
faction in an uneven, weedy, patchy, mossy lawn; There are lawns that 
only looked well once— l.e., a brief period after formation. Probably 
the soil had no particular preparation, draining was not considered, no 
care was taken to provide a regular depth of soil for laying turf or sowing 
seeds, and the location whence the turf was taken was not considered. 
Some lawns get into a bad state through neglect ; the soil is good, the 
drainage all that is desired, yet the lawn is poor and thin of the coveted 
herbage to make a close, firm, yet elastic turf. Poverty is the cause of 
so many lawns being as they are; what they want is cultivation, the 
frequent cutting and clearing off is impoverishment. Some soils will 
bear the removal without showing distress for a long time ; indeed, 
some lawns, from the particular quality of the soil, will improve for 
many jcars, but the majority are not in that condition. 
Uneven Lawns. —These are such as have inequalities from the 
subsidence of the soil over drains, filling up hollows, taking out trees, 
or alterations, Ac., and which arc not so pronounced as to necessitate 
taking up the whole of the turf, leveling and relaying. Such slight 
unevenness as a sunk drain, an inequality occasioned by the removal of 
a tree, when rectified, converts an otherwise unserviceable lawn into one 
suitable for tennis. Paring the turf, filling with soil similar in quality 
to that forming the lawn, and firmly so as not to settle, relaying and 
