February 16, 18f8. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
139 
dry before night, or if that does not take place the afternoon syringing 
must be dis^nsed with, damping the paths and borders instead, as 
keeping the trees dripping with water through the ni.ht causes weak 
growth and thin foliage. See that the outside border is well protected 
from the cold, and water the inside border with liquid manure, which 
will much assist the fruit in swelling, especially in the case of weakly 
trees long subjected to repeated forcing. Vigorous trees will not require 
any stimulants, excessive vigour being unfavourable to the fruit safely 
passing the stoning process. When the fruit is the size of small marbles 
thinning may be commenced, but remove a few fruits only at a time, 
first removing those that are badly placed. Disbudding must be followed 
up, taking care to leave a growth at the base of each bearing shoot, and 
another at its extremity, or at least level with the fruit. The shoots 
retained for attracting the sap to and supporting the fruit should be 
stopped at the second or third leaf, but the basal shoots must be trained 
to take the place of those now bearing fruit. Shoots upon extensions 
must be left at 12 to 1-5 inches distance apart to form the bearing 
shoots of the future. It is a great mistake to crowd the trees with 
growths for which there is not space to allow of its full exposure to 
light and air, therefore avoid overcrowding, seeking to maintain an 
equal balance of growth throughout the trees and its solidification by 
j udicious ventilation. 
SbcoiuI Early Iloune. —Continue fertilising the flowers gently, dis’ 
tributing the pollen by shaking the trellis or drawing over each flower 
a camel’s hair brush or other means of distributing the pollen. Lose no 
opportunity of admitting air, avoiding, however, cold currents, and 
leave a little ventilation constantly at the apex. The night tempera¬ 
ture may be continued at 50°, 5° less on cold nights, 55° by day artifi¬ 
cially, and 60° to 05° from sun heat, not allowing a rise above 05° with¬ 
out a free circulation of air. 
Houses Started Early in Fehruary. —The’trees started early in the 
month are swelling their flower buds rapidly. Syringing must cease 
when they show colour. Maintain, however, a good moisture by damp¬ 
ing paths and borders two or three times a day as the weather may 
dictate, avoiding a close, stagnant atmosphere. If the flowers are very 
numerous, thin them by rubbing the hand downwards on the under 
side of the shoots, which will strengthen the remainder, enabling them 
to set better. Examine the trees closely, and if there be any aphides 
fumigate with tobacco, so as to destroy them before the flowers expand. 
Continue the temperature at 40° to 45° at night, and 50° by day, above 
which ventilate freely. When the flovvers expand raise the temperature 
to 50° at night, 55° by day, and 00° to 05° from sun heat with free 
ventilation. On cold nights the temperature may fall to 45°, or even 
less ; also 50° by day, allowing a little ventilation constantly at the top 
of the house. 
Melons. —The weather lately has not been favourable to the growth 
of the young plants. In a Melon house, a ridge the whole length of 
the bed, about 2 feet wide at the base, with the top flattened so as to 
give a depth of 10 to 12 inches, is preferable to hillocks, the soil being 
made rather firm, and when warm the plants may be turned out, firming 
the soil well, and raising it to within half an inch of the seed leaves. 
The plants may be placed 2 to 2^ feet apart, the leading or primary 
shoots being taken up without stopping until fully two-thirds the 
distance they are intended to travel is reached, then pinch out the point 
of each. When three or four lateral joints are made the points should 
be taken out. Some varieties will show fruit freely on the first laterals, 
and as early Melons are a consideration, let them remain, taking out the 
point at a joint above them. To allow all the laterals to remain would 
very much overcrowd the foliage, therefore rub ofi every alternate one 
whilst they are quite young. After stopping the first laterals, the suc¬ 
ceeding growths will show fruit at the second or third joint. The 
growths should be trained thinly and regularly, so that every part of 
the surface is evenly clothed with foliage and fruit. The plants will 
require but little water as jet, nevertheless maintain the soil in a moist 
state, avoiding anything approaching to saturation. Sprinkle every 
available surface in the morning of bright days, and again at closing 
time or early in the afternoon. Ventilate carefully, avoiding currents 
of cold air. Some hexagon netting or scrim canvas placed over the 
ventilators will break the force of cutting winds. Maintain the night 
temperature at 70°, falling to 05° in the morning, 5° less in severe 
weather being better than seeking to maintain the higher temperature 
by sharp firing ; 75° by day, rising to 80° or 85° from sun heat; bottom 
heat kept steady at 80°. 
In pits and frames with the shoots trained over the surface of the 
beds, the plants, being stopped at the second leaf, will produce two 
shoots, and these in turn being stopped will result in four shoots, two 
being taken to the front and two to the back of the frame. Besides 
these a number of shoots will appear near the collar of the plant ; these 
should be rubbed off whilst quite young, and do not encourage any 
lateral nearer the stem than 6 inches. This will keep the collar clear. 
Stop the principal shoots when within a foot of the sides of the pit or 
frame, and thus throw vigour into the laterals, which will show fruit at 
the second or third joint, stopping them at one joint beyond the fruit. 
Cover the lights with double mats at night, and see that linings are 
regularly attended to, renewing the old linings as required. Prepare 
material for making up fresh beds. About a fortnight before it is 
desired to make up the bed the dung and leaves should be thoroughly 
incorporated. In a few days it will be seen whether there is sufficient 
moisture to produce decomposition, fermentation being the result; if not 
turn the whole, sprinkling with water, so as to moisten the mass, and 
when in gootl heat turn again outside to inside and vice versa, two or 
three turnings lieing required at intervals of about four days. The 
bottom heat of fermenting beds should be 85° to 90°. 
Shift later sown plants into large pots, or add soil as the plants ad¬ 
vance, stopping those for frames at the second leaf, not stopping those 
for trellises, but jflacing a small stick to each for support. 
Cucumbers. —Examine the plants in bearing once or twice a week, 
removing bad leaves and exhausted growths, thinning the shoots, stop¬ 
ping, and removing old and deformed fruits. Thin the shoots if neces¬ 
sary, overcropping and overcrowding being highly prejudicial. In 
securing the young shoots to the trellis do not tie them too tightly, but 
allow' room for development. Plants that have been in bearing for some 
time should have the surface soil removed and have previously warmed 
fresh soil added. Turfy loam w'ith a fourth of well decayed manure 
will answer ; we, however, prefer for Cueumb-rs and Melons turfy loam 
without an admixture of manure, seeking vigour by rich surface dressi 
ings or liquid manure. The bottom heat should not be allowed to fall 
below 75° or exceed 90°, 80° being suitable, the night temperature 66° to 
70°, 5° less in severe weather, 70° to 75° by day, rising to 85° from sun, 
closing early in the afternoon, damping the pathways on bright morn¬ 
ings and at closing time. 
For young plants hillocks or ridges should be formed as described 
for Melons. Afford the same temperature as advised for older plants,. 
If the sun be powerful and the plants show indications of flagging shads 
them for a few days. Attend to dung-heated frames with linings as 
required, protecting at night as advised for Melons. Do not apply more 
water than to keep the plants gently growing. Where red spider has 
appeared on the winter fruiting plants coat the pipes with sulphur anci 
lime in equal parts, heating the pipes to as near boiling point as possible 
for a couple of hours on a calm evening, taking care that the tempera¬ 
ture of the house is not more than 80° to 85°, and then allow the pipes 
and house to cool down to their regular temperature. The foliage 
should be thoroughly dry. The same process may be repeated the fol¬ 
lowing evening, and is generally effectual, the mixture being applied 
whilst the pipes are hot. 
Strawberries in Pots. —A fair set characterises the first plants. 
Remove all badly set or deformed fruits, leaving from four to half a 
dozen of the most promising fruits to each plant, and aid their swelling 
by liquid manure. The temperature should be 60° to 65°, advancing ten 
75° by day with moderate ventilation. Avoid drying currents of air, aa 
they injuriously affect the swelling of the fruit. E.xamine the plants 
twice each day, giving water only to those needing it, and in sufficient 
quantity to show at the drainage. See that succession plants are kept 
free from aphides, fumigating if necessary before the flowers open. 
British Queen and other late sorts may now be started, introducing, how¬ 
ever, proportionate quantities of Sir Harry, Sir Joseph Paxton, Presi¬ 
dent, James Veitch, &c., to maintain the succession. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Azaleas. —As these plants cease flowering remove all the seed pods? 
and wash the plants if any trace of thrips can be found upon them. A 
good solution for this purpose is tobacco water reduced to the colour of 
stout ; in each gallon of this dissolve 1 oz. of softsoap and a piece of com¬ 
mon washing soda about the size of a Cob Nut. This solution will not 
only destroy living insects, but their eggs as well. Place them after¬ 
wards where they can enjoy gentle heat and moisture until they have, 
made their growth. The conditions of a Peach house or vinery at work, 
w'here the night temperature do s not exceed 55°, will suit them well. 
Directly their roots commence activity those that need repotting may 
be attended to, white the remainder may have a little artificial manure 
applied to the surface of the soil. In repotting be careful not to dis¬ 
turb the roots further than is necessary in the removal of the old 
drainage. The soil, consisting of good jieat and sand, must be pressed 
in the pots firmly. Syringe the plants and pots freely afterwards, bufi, 
no water at tbe roots will be needed for some days if the soil was in a 
satisfactory state of moisture when they were potted. 
Camellias. —Plants that have flowered should be pushed into growths 
at once if they are required to flower as early as possible next autumn- 
Undue forcing at that period of the year is certain to end in failure. No. 
matter how carefully forcing operations are conducted the buds will 
invariably fall. The necessary forcing can be done now by inducing 
the plants to make an early growth, so that they will unfold their flowers- 
almost naturally, or with the least possible difference in temperature at 
the time they are required. If the plants are infested with scale- 
syringe them liberally with petroleum and water, using 3 ozs. of the oil 
in each four gallons of water. If no signs of new growths are visible 
upon the plants 4 ozs. may be safely used. Place the plants afterwards- 
in a temperature of 60° to 6.5°, with a rise from sun heat during the day.. 
The house should be kept closed, and the plants heavily syringed twice 
during the day. If they need repotting do so at once, using a compost, 
of good fibry loam, one-seventh of horse manure, and a liberal quantity 
of coarse .sand ; a little charcoal and half-inch bones may also be addeiL 
if the plants are large. About a 10-inch potful of the former and an 
8-inch potful of the latter will be ample to each barrowful of soil.. 
If top-dressing only is needed use equal portions of loam and manure. 
(ireenhouse Ehndode7idrn7is .—R. Gibsoni, Princess Alice, Princess. 
Royal, and others, will bear gentle forcing if their flowers are appre¬ 
ciated moderately early in the season. Strong heat is most injurious to.- 
these plants, and if applied in the hope of inducing them to open their 
flowers, they will, in the majority of cases, fail to do so. They must not 
