162 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
r Febraary 23, 1888. 
insertion in the present issue ; nothing, however, can be lost by thi little 
delay. 
Exhibiting- Tuberous Begonias C.'). —We consider it im¬ 
proper for flowers of Tuberous Begonias, or any other flowers, to be 
brought in a box and tied on plants in an exhibition tent for the purpose 
of winning prizes. The practice ought not to be allowed by show 
authorities, and if such additions to the plants were brought to the 
notice of judges they would be justifled in disqualifying the collection. 
IMusa Sucker (IF. ./.).—You may with safety to the parent plant 
remove the sucker 3 feet high, and instead of its injuring the old plant 
it will contribute to its vigour. In taking oS the sucker be careful not 
to injure the roots of the old plant, but take away as much soil as you 
can, so as to remove the sucker with some roots, and without breaking 
it ; forcibly and sharply pulled, it will snap oS at the surface like a 
Carrot. 
Insects on Agathsea Eeaf (//. P.).—The objects on the leaf are 
the cast-off skins. “ rust,” as it is called, and dead bodies of a very small 
mite of the Phytoptus group. This is probably allied to the species 
which occur on the Alder and Birch. It would be impossible to deter¬ 
mine the exact species without the inspection of a number of fresh 
specimens, as they are diSicult to name. However, this species and 
others of the tribe are in no wise hurtful to the life of the plants or trees 
they frequent, except in very rare instances, but they are sometimes 
numerous enough to disfigure. 
Hyacinth Hoots Defective (//. C.'). —The roots are insufficient in 
quantity, also weak, and some of them discoloured, but not decayed. We 
are unable to account for the paucity of roots. Are you satisfied the 
soil was not too dry when used ? If it was suitable in composition and 
moisture, roots ought to have issued more plentifully from the bulb. 
The discoloration may be due to a too free use of the artificial manure, 
and that is possibly the case. If you had applied less of that and more 
water, we think a very good spike would have developed. The soil was 
too dry in the centre when we examined it ; and we suspect the flowers 
will yet expand, and form a very good spike. 
Gardenias (//. P.'). —With no data to guide us as to cultural 
details we are unable to indicate the cause of your plants failing— 
'‘going off,” as you say—somewhat suddenly. If the sprays are fairly 
representative your plants are in an enfeebled state, the stems being 
thin, and the leaves lacking substance. Is not the root action defective ? 
We advise you to procure cuttings from a vigorous stock and raise 
young plants in the meantime, giving the best support you can to the 
plants that are evidently the reverse of satisfactory. Not knowing the 
-treatment to which they are [subjected we cannot give a more precise 
reply. 
Transplanted Vine (./. ,S'.).—The Vine transplanted from the back 
wall to a position in front, replacing another kind, will no doubt suc¬ 
ceed, as it had a quantity of fibrous roots, which we presume were care¬ 
fully preserved and spread out in the new position, fresh compost being 
worked in amongst them, the Vine in fact being properly planted. The 
vinery not being started for some time yet will be an advantage rather 
than otherwise ; all that is necessary is to keep the soil moist, but if 
moist now no water will be necessary until the buds start, when we 
advise a good supply of tepid water, mulching the surface as far as the 
roots extend with short manure a couple of inches thick, which should 
also be kept moist. Beyond syringing a httle more frequently than for 
established Vines, and keeping the ventilators rather closer if that can 
be done near the transplanted Vine, no special treatment will be neces¬ 
sary. 
Vine for Greenhouse (J. E .').—A Vine would succeed provided 
you maintain an ordinary greenhouse temperature—viz., 40“’.to 45° at 
night, and 45° to 50° in the daytime by artificial means. A Black 
Hamburgh would be the most suitable variety. The stage as you propose 
m.aking it would answer, but we should not use the spent tan or sand, being 
content with the shingle. Of the plants you name, Amaryllises, Gloxinas, 
and Coleus would not succeed with the others. We should advise you 
confining yourself to greenhouse plants. If you have the Vine you will 
not need the climbers, as those you name—viz., Mandevilla suaveolens 
and Lapageria rosea, would require all your available roof space. Mina 
lobata is a half-hardy annual. Others that you may raise from seed 
are—Rhodochiton volubile, Lophospermum scandens, Maurandya Bar- 
clayana and var. alba, M. purpurea grandiflora, Tacsonia ignea, T. 
Van Volxemi, Tropmolum Lobbianum Napoleon III. We do not notice 
in your list of plants the very desirable Zonal, double, and show, as 
well as fancy Pelargoniums, which are indispensable. The wires for 
the trellis are best fixed horizontally about G inches apart. 
Dafiodlls In Pots (J. IF.).—No wonder you are charmed -with 
Daffodils grown in pots, the wonder is that everybody does not grow 
them. T& plants should be kept in a light airy position after 
flowering, duly supplied with water and occasional supplies of liquid 
manure, assigning them a position in a cool house or cold frame, where 
they will have plenty of light, taking care to harden them off previously 
if they have been grown in heat or forced, and in April they may be 
placed in a sheltered position outdoors, plunging the pots to the rim in 
ashes, where they may remain till the growth is matured, givmg water 
as required until the foliage dies down. They should be repotted 
before growth commences, or in July or August, plunging in ashes. The 
soil being moist they will not require any water, as the rain will be 
sufficient to keep the soil moist. It is advisable to cover the pots about 
4 inches deep. Care must be taken to remove them from the ashes 
when the growths are an inch or so above the pots, placing them in a 
cool frame, and shading from sun until the growth is quite green, when 
they should have all the light possilde. From the frame they may be 
transplanted to the greenhouse or forcing house as required. 
Halsing- Iiiliums from Seed (T. J/.).—If you had sown the seed as 
soon as it was gathered in a mixture of sandy loam and peat kept 
uniformly moist in a box in the greenhouse, or covered with cocoa-nut 
fibre refuse in a frame, then placed the box in a warm frame in spring, 
you would have gained time. Sow now on soil previously well watered 
cover closely with squares of glass to prevent the moisture evaporating, 
also shade the glass from the sun. The chief point is to maintain 
constant and uniform moisture in the soil, as if it gets dry now and 
then, even for a short time, germination, which is slow, will be materially 
retarded if not prevented. You give no idea of your cultural con¬ 
veniences, therefore we are unable to give information precisely 
applicable to your case. Some of the seed may germinate in the summer, 
especially in a moist warm frame, but the whole of it may not do so till 
next spring. You had better therefore not disturb the soil till then, and 
the plants that appear this season may be left to grow in the box. A 
cool frame will be suitable for seedlings in summer, or the box may be 
stood in a shaded place outdoors, such as behind a wall, in hot weather, 
the soil being liable to get too dry in the full sun. 
Top-dressing- an Uneven Da-wn (^G. A. B.'). —If you cover the 
grass 2 to 4 inches deep with soil you will ruin the lawn not only for 
the present season, but for ever. It would in effect destroy the finer and 
better description of grass, only the coarser kinds and weeds being able 
to grow through so thick a covering ; besides, you may not have calcu¬ 
lated what covering the ground 2 to 4 inches deep with soil means. 
An inch is equal to 15 cubic yards of soil per acre, or twenty to 
twenty-five cartloads of compost in a fit state to apply as a surface 
dressing. Two inches depth of soil is equivalent to thirty, 3 inches to 45, 
and 4 inches to GO cubic yards, or respectively twenty, forty, sixty, and 
eighty cartloads of compost per acre. The first of those quantities, or 
twenty cartloads per acre of good compost, is a sufficiently heavy dress¬ 
ing, even when the ground is uneven. It is not advisable to mix grass 
seeds with the compost. It should be put on with as little further 
delay as is practicable, spreading evenl}'-, and when in good working 
order raking it over wdth a rake having long teeth. A rake similar to a 
hay-rake would do, only having iron instead of wooden teeth. This will 
fill up the inequalities. Repeat the raking early in April, and imme¬ 
diately afterwards sow Grass seeds over it, rake lightly after sowing, 
and roll it well at the same time. 
Hames of Fruits. —The names and addresses of senders of fruit 
to be named must in all cases be enclosed with the specimens, whether 
letters referring to the fruit are sent by post or not. The names are 
not necessarily required for publication, initials sufficing for that. Only 
six specimens can be named at once, and any beyond that number can¬ 
not be preserved. {R. II. C.'). —Passe Crasanne. (.7. S. Prustoii ).— 
Your Pears are correctly named. 
xrames of Plants. —We only undertake to name species of plants, 
not varieties that have originated from seed and termed flori.sts’ flowers. 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fronds 
should bear spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm boxes. 
Slightly damp moss or soft green leaves form the best packing, dry cotton 
wool the worst. Not more than six specimens can be named at once. 
ill.P .').—The plant, we think, is Deadrobium nobile var. coerulescens, 
but the flower is, as you say, very diminutive. We have seen large 
flowers of this variety very little inferior in colour to D. nobile nobilius. 
(.1. J/.).—All the flowers you have sent represent varieties, not species, 
of plants, and can only be named by comparison with others accurately 
named and flowering in a large collection. As may be observed above, 
only species of plants are named in these columns, (f?.).—1, Acacia 
armata ; 2, Chorozema cordatum. (.7. M.'). —Yes, it resembles Aucuba 
japonica longifolia, or angustifolia, as it is also named. Try Chrysan¬ 
themums Ceres and Mrs. C. Carey ; they will probably suit you. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— Fbbkuaey 22nd. 
PftxcES remain aa laat -n-eek. Arriv-ala shorter -with a steady trade. 
VEGETABLES. 
B. 
d. 
d. 
s. 
G. 
s. 
a. 
ArtichokeP} dozen *« 
1 
0 to 2 
0 
Lettuce, dozen .• •• 
0 
9 
to 1 
3 
Asparagus, bundle .. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Mushrooms, punnet 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Beans, Kidney, per lb. 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Mustard and Cress, punt. 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Beet,Red, dozen •• 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Onion?, bunch. 
0 
S 
0 
0 
Broccoli, bundle .. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Parsley, dozen bunches 
2 
0 
$ 
0 
Brussels Sprout.-^, 4 sieve 
3 
Q 
4 
0 
Parsnips, dozen 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Cabbage, dozen •« 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Potatoes, per owt. 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Capsicums, per 100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
„ Kidney, [er owt. 
4 
0 
0 
0 
Carrots, bunch 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Rhubarb, bundle •• .. 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Cauliflowers, dozen 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Salsafv, bundle •» «• 
1 
0 
1 
6 
Celery, bundle 
1 
e 
2 
0 
Scorzouera, bundle •• 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Coleworts, dcz. bunches 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Seakale, basket «• •• 
1 
0 
1 
s 
Cucumbers, each .. 
0 
6 
1 
3 
Shallots, per tb. 
0 
8 
0 
0 
Endive, dozen .. .. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Spinach, bushel .. .. 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Herns, bunch .. ., 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Tomatoes, per lb. 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Leeks, bunch .. .. 
0 
8 
0 
4 
Turuips, bunch ,, .. 
0 
4 
0 
6 
FRUIT. 
B. 
a. 
S. 
d. 
B« 
a. 
8. 
d. 
Apples, 4 sieve.. .. 
2 
6 
to 4 
6 
Oranges, per 100 •• •« 
2 
0 to 6 
0 
Nova Scotia and 
Pears, dozen .. ,. .. 
3 
0 
6 
0 
Canada barrel 10 
0 
18 
0 
Pine Apples, English 
45 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Grapes, per lb. 
3 
6 
5 
0 
St, Michael Fines, each 
S 
0 
5 
0 
T^emous, case .. ., 
10 
0 
15 
0 
