180 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 1, 1888. 
out some of the 1886 flowers take remarkably high positions. For in¬ 
stance, at No. 14 we And Maiden’s Blush, and at No. 22—or only three 
steps lower down than the veteran Meg Merrilies from which it originated 
—Kalph Brockleb.ank. At No. 29 comes Mr. II. Cannell, and at No. 34 
Mr. C. Orchard, while Mdlle. P. Dutour and Mr. Matthew each at No. 53 
just manage to obtain a place. 
REFLEXED, LARGE ANEMONE, LARGE HYBRID ANEMONE, 
POMPON ANEMONE, AND POMPON VARIETIES. 
In the following short lists the principal varieties in each of the 
above sections will be found arranged according to the number of times 
they were staged at the Society’s last year’s November Exhibition. 
liejiexcd. —Cullingfordii, Peach Christine, King of Crimsons, Golden 
Christine, Cloth of Gold, Pink Christine, Chevalier Domage, Phidias, 
■White Christine, Felicity, Dr. Sharpe, Mdlle. Madeleine Tezier. 
Large Anemone. —Emperor, Gluck, Lady Margaret, Acquisition, 
Georges Sand, Louis Bonamy, Fleur de Marie, La Marguerite, Laing’s 
Anemone, Madame Goderau. 
Large Ilyhrid Anemone .—Fabian de Mediana, Madame Berthe Pigny, 
Soeur Dorothee Souilld, Minnie Chate, Mdlle. Cabrol, Jeanne Marty, 
Marguerite Viliageoise, Madame Ghys, Ratapoil, Souvenir de Lardenne. 
Pomgjon Anemone. —Mr. Astie, Antonins, Marguerite de Coi, Miss 
Nightingale, Madame Chalonge, Marie Stuart, Perle, Astrea, Madame 
Montels, Regulus. 
Pomjnm. —Mdlle. Marthe, Golden Mdlle. Marthe, Prince of Orange, 
Miss Wheeler, Black Douglas, Mdlle. Elise Dordan, Marabout, President, 
Rosinante, La Purete, Pygmalion. 
My thanks are due to Mr. C. Harman Payne for supplying the 
dates and raisers’ names of those varieties-which appear now for the 
first time in the list of Japanese varieties, also to the Rev. H. A. Berners 
and Mr. J. Burrell for the assistance they kindly gave me in taking 
down the names at the show.—E. M., Bcrltkamstcd. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Pruning Peach Trees. —The good old plan of unnailing or other¬ 
wise loosening the young growths of Peach and Nectarine trees in the 
autumn assists to ripen them thoroughly, and as they are thus clear of 
the wall it also materially retards flowering. As the buds are now far 
advanced towards opening, the time has arrived for pruning and re¬ 
nailing or retying the trees. If when the trees were loosened much of 
the old fruiting wood was cut away very little more pruning is now 
needed. There being always the risk of the loss of much bloom from 
late frosts and cold easterly winds, it is unwise to be too free with the 
knife, a better plan being to lay in as much fruiting wood as possible 
without injuriously crowding it. Nor is it advisable to shorten the young 
growths, especially at this late date. Unpruned shoots break more 
•evenly and strongly, and all subsequent growth or the formation of the 
tree may be regulated by disbudding and stopping. Cut any shoots not 
wanted clear away and as much of the old wood as can be spared. Also 
practise foreshortening, especially in the case of large old trees. 'When 
large straggling branches are shortened to well placed younger wood the 
latter is naturally much benefited thereby, and foreshortening, as this is 
termed, is also necessary to induce the formation of young wood near 
the base or ceptre of the tree. It is there such is most wanted, not at 
the extreme ends of the trees. 
Dressing and Training the Trees. —Insect pests, including 
«cale, red spider, and aphis,'as well as mildew are frequently troublesome 
■on I’each and Nectarine trees, and if not already done now is the time 
to attempt a timely clearance. Various remedies are to be had from all 
seedsmen and horticultural sundriesmen, the well-tried Gishurst Com¬ 
pound being still as popular as any. Anything in the shape of a wash 
and applied through a sj’ringe is usually most effective, as this, in addi¬ 
tion to thoroughly wetting the whole of the wood, penetrates into all 
the crevices of the walls and also destroys the aphides and other pests 
that lodge in the ground. Not many of those will survive a thorough 
wetting with water heated to a temperature of about 120°, to every 
gallon of which is added 2 ozs. or one wineglass of petroleum. The 
latter will be kept from floating on the surface if every second syringeful 
is forcibly returned to the can. When training the trees first arrange 
and fasten all the old wood or framework and then fill in with the 
bearing wood. If nails and shreds are necessarily used see that none of 
the former come into contact with the wood, or damaged bark followed 
by gumming will inevitably result to the great injury of the tree. It is 
a good plan to tie young growths where possible over the naked main 
stems, this protecting these from fierce sunshine and cold winds, also 
economising space. 
I’RUNiNG AND TRAINING YouNG I'ruit Trees. —If maiden trees 
of either Apricots, Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, Cherries, Pears, or 
Apples are planted with the idea of forming these into fan-shaped trees 
they ought now to be cut down to within 6 inches of the point of 
union between the stock and scion. P'our shoots may eventually be 
laid in from these, and sometimes it is possible to obtain six medium¬ 
sized well ripened growths in one season. Any thus treated last year to 
have all the branches shortened to a length of about 12 inches, and from 
these enough fresh shoots will be obtained to lay the foundation of a 
good tree. Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines succeed admirably when 
grown with one central or main stem only, this lieing trained obliquely 
and the fruiting wood laid in right and left. Maidens are the best to 
start with in this instance, these being shortened back to a length of 
18 inches. During the summer two or three pairs of side branches and 
one leader ought to be formed on them. When fan-shaped trees of any 
of the above mentioned fruits are planted these are usually furnished 
with eight or more branches. No leader should be permitted on these, 
as they are almost certain to take a strong lead and eventually over¬ 
grow the rest of the tree. If there is an odd or central branch on newly 
received trees cut it back at once, and thereby secure a pair if these 
are needed to furnish space. All the branches if sound and well 
ripened to be laid in to their full length and neatly fastened to t’ne wall, 
or in much the same style as they were previously trained. To cut 
them hard back is simply suicidal, much valuable time being wasted 
before the branches again attain a similar length. Timely disbudding 
and stopping are all that are necessary to insure the formation of suffi¬ 
cient young wood to complete the furnishing of the tree. Should, un¬ 
fortunately, any of the branches be damaged or be found unripe cut 
these back to sound or well-ripened wood. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Earliest Forced House .—The fruit 
will soon have completed the first swelling, and will enter upon the 
stoning process. If the thinning has been carefully attended to there 
will be little more than the necessary quantity —namely, one fruit to 
every square foot of trellis covered by the trees. More Nectarines are 
usually left, which accounts for their being under-sized as compared 
with Peaches. If there is more fruit than specified above remove the 
smallest. There is no danger of the fruit falling during stoning pro¬ 
vided the wood was thoroughly ripened last season, and the trees are 
not unnecessarily taxed by too many fruit. During the stoning process 
keep the temperature as equable as possible, as a sudden check by 
draughts of cold air in the daytime, and too high a temperature in 
the night, may prove disastrous. The night temperature may range 
from 60° to 65°, but 6° less will be safer in severe weather, and in 
the daytime 70° to 75° with sun heat, and about 65° by artificial means 
when the atmosphere outside is cold and the sky overcast. See that 
the growing shoots are secured to the trellis as they advance, keeping 
those retained to attract the sap past the fruit stopped at the second or 
third joint. Red spider must be kept in check by syringing with water 
at the same temperature as the house, or if thrips and brown aphides 
appear fumigate carefully when the foliage is quite dry. For destroy¬ 
ing the insects named nothing is safer and better than a solution of 
softsoap at the rate of 2 ozs. to the gallon of tepid iwater. Be not 
deceived by the syringing— i.e., making the surface of the border look 
wet, whilst the soil teneath may be too dry, but give good supplies, 
and if the trees are at all weak apply liquid manure! 
Second Early Forsed, House. — Disbud gradually, removing the 
strongest and ill-placed shoots, and have all the leading shoots tied 
down, taking care not to overcrowd them. Thin the fruit by degrees, 
it having set very thickly will require extra attention, removing those 
on the under side of the trellis or otherwise badly placed, but leave 
those that are well exposed to light and air until they indicate by free 
swelling the necessity for further reduction, then remove the smallest. 
Syringe the trees early during fine days, and ventilate early in favour¬ 
able weather. The temperature may range from 55° to 60° at night 
and 60° to 65° by day, ventilating at the latter temperature, and closing 
the house when the heat is decreasing, allowing an advance of 5° to 10° 
from sun heat. 
Houses Started Early in Felruary .—The trees are now in floweror 
well advanced. As we have many more flowers than will be needed, all 
those on the under side of the shoots have been removed by drawing a 
gloved hand the reverse way of the growths, and even yet there are 
three-fourths more than will be required of fruit for the crop, therefore 
we have thinned them still further where most crowded, especially on 
the weaker shoots. Maintain the night temperature at 60° to 55° and 
5.5° by day with a little ventilation, as a close atmosphere is fatal to a 
good set. Ventilate freely above 55°, and allow an advance to 65° with 
sun heat. Fertilise the blossoms in the early part of fine days either 
by shaking the trellis or dusting the flowers with a camel-hair brush 
when the pollen of the individual flower is ripe. Syringing must cease 
whilst the trees are in flower, but the floor should besprinkled morning 
and afternoon, avoiding cold currents of air. 
Houses to Afford Ripe Fruit in Late July and Augu.d .—These 
should be closed, syringing two or three times a day until the buds 
show colour, when it must cease. The inside borders must bo brought 
into a thoroughly moist state by repeated waterings if necessary, and 
with the borders properly drained liquid manure may be given to weakly 
trees and those having a superabundance of flower buds. There are too 
many buds by at least five-sixths. Our trees have the principal triple 
buds all fruit buds, and as we find nothing weakens the trees so much 
as heavy cropping, we shall ease them of at least half the blossom buds as 
soon as they can be rubbed off. To farther help them we have mulched the 
surface of the inside border with 2 to 3 inches thickness of rather short 
fresh manure, which colours the water in watering, and will help the 
active feeders, for all on the Tluin stock—viz.. Apricots, Peaches, and 
