March 8, 1888. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
189 
into growth may not be apparent to the less experienced grower 
without some explanation. The explanation is this. Our summers 
are too short for many varieties to properly mature their flower 
spikes, and even in the case of some which do this the conn which 
is to continue the plant’s existence and to flower the succeeding 
year is not sufficiently developed before winter. For many years 
I lifted plants and allowed them to finish growth under glass, but 
this practice is not so commendable as that of extending the length 
of the season of growth from what may be called the “ bud ” end 
of the plant. The rationale of this system is very much the same 
as that of sprouting Potatoes before planting, and indeed in many 
respects the Gladiolus appreciates the same treatment as the 
Potato. I am sprouting my Gladiolus like the Potatoes, being 
alongside them. A little leaf soil (sifted) is placed in the bottom 
of cutting boxes, and the corms are laid somewhat closely together 
on the top of the soil, a covering of moss helping to start the 
growths in an even manner. I have cut the corms for the 
past few years, and though not a necessary proceeding it enables 
us to produce a given number of spikes from one corm with 
absolute precision. A friend who followed this practice com¬ 
plained of the number which failed to grow, but I have not the. 
■slightest doubt that there had been a failure on the part of the 
grower, just as it so often happens that Kidney Potatoes are 
never seen after they are put in the ground when dormant. If 
corms with imperfectly started buds are cut and placed into cold 
•soil it is no wonder that they fail to grow. It must be borne in 
mind that in some seasons on account of a want of heat the corms 
do not ripen sufficiently for the full development of more than one 
■bud. 
It must be remembered that a Gladiolus is, after all, simply a 
(Corm, and in trying to increase it by cutting we are limited by the 
•condition of its rootstock, for if in endeavouring to make every 
prominent bud into a detached plant we cut outside the circle of 
latent roots we cannot make that bud grow into a plant. Many of 
the corms that have lately passed through my hands have shown 
four and five good buds, but in no case have I been able to cut up 
Into a greater number than three pieces, because of the impossibility 
of securing roots along with a greater number of buds. Lemoine’s 
hybrids require exactly the same treatment, and the same care in 
cutting the corms. Last season several spikes were so late as to be 
spoilt by cold and wet. This year I hope by starting them to have 
them much earlier. Moreover, this year I asked M. Lemoine to 
select me only those which he knew to be early, so that I hope to 
be on the safe side. The earlier varieties of the Gandavensis 
■section do not require to be started, and of course those who are 
far enough south will hesitate to adopt a system which in their case 
may not be necessary at all. 
A few years ago I began to plant much shallower than gi’owers 
lecommend. My reason fordoing so was to secure more heat to 
the corms in autumn in order to then- more thorough maturation. 
I confess I tried this plan with some hesitation, but the results have 
so far justified this innovation. Last autumn some of the stronger 
growers—such as Mabel, Leandre, Teresita, Titania, &c.—ran up to 
from G to 7 feet, and in one case as many as seventy-eight flowers 
were produced on one growth. Moreover, many of the corms 
measure 9 to 10 inches in circumference, and a few from 10 to 11, 
while dozens of them will throw tlu-ee and four growths from one 
corm, so that in our case there cannot be much wrong with tliis 
system. 
Another cultural point worth directing the attention of large 
growers to is the distance the corms should be planted apart. 
When clumps of one variety are planted, say of nine to a dozen 
together, the corms need not be farther than from 2 to 3 inches 
apart. When planted in lines or beds four single growths can be 
put into each foot run, and they will succeed just as well at this 
distance apart as when allowed more room. In order to get freely 
to the plants a distance of 18 inches between the rows is not too 
much to allow. 
The soil should be thoroughly broken into small particles to a 
•depth of from 18 inches to 2 feet. Last year I added a 9-inch 
dressing of prepared garden refuse to the Gladiolus quarter. I 
shall add quite as much this year, as it seems to suit them so well. 
vSuperphosphate of lime employed as a surface dressing three or 
four times in the course of the season, and watered-iu, is of much 
-advantage. A good guano is equally beneficial but more expensive, 
though in many cases it may be more easily obtained than the 
•other.—B. 
NOTES ON GRAPES. 
SIZE AND QUALIFY. 
Under the above heading there appeared in the Journal for the 
:2oth of January last an ably written article from the pen of Mr. 
David Thomson. I agree that those gardeners who grow for 
market are bound to produce what is most in demand, whether it 
be coarse or otherwise, therefore my remarks shall be confined to 
garden produce which is cultivated specially for home consumption. 
With regard to size and quality in hothouse fruits, Mr. Thomson 
will, I doubt not, admit that both may be obtained together in the 
best kinds and varieties of fruits. I take it that anyone knowing 
anything about Grapes would look upon the production of well- 
proportioned and finely finished bunches from 3 lbs. to 7 lbs. each as 
bearing evidence of high cultural skill, and my experience leads me 
to say that nineteen out of every twenty guests would prefer the 
7 lb. bunch to the 3 lb. bunch being seen on the dinner table. 
Size in this case would not necessarily be secured at the expense 
of quality pointed out by a correspondent at page 82. However, 
I do not advocate growing all large bunches of Grapes. On the 
contrary, I should say from one to three dozen such bunches for 
special occasions would be ample, as there can be no doubt in the 
minds of Grape-growers about bunches of every variety of Grape, 
ranging from Ij lb. to 3 lbs. each, being the most useful, and at the 
same time the most economical size bunch to grow. 
VAUIETIES OF GRAPES. 
With regard to varieties I daresay all practical Grape-growers 
for home consumption would, if they were confined to two varieties, 
grow Black Hamburgh and Muscat of Alexandria in preference to 
any others. At the same time I fail to see that anything is 
lost by including a rod each of other v.arieties in the second 
and third Hamburgh houses. But Black Hamburgh, Muscat of 
Alexandria, Madi'esfield Court, Buckland Sweetwater (which is a 
grand Grape when well done), and Foster’s Seedling, cannot be had 
all the year through, hence it is that the thicker-skinned and less 
highly flavoured varieties are cultivated to continue the supply of 
Grapes during the winter and early spring months. With regard 
to late or long-keeping Grapes, I look upon the old and m-uch- 
abused Syrian (which is nearly identical with Trebbiano), and Mrs. 
Pearson, as being two good keeping white varieties, the berries of 
both being juicy and very refreshing when well ripened. Of blacks, 
we depend mostly upon Lady Downe’s, Mrs. Pince’s Black Muscat, 
aud Gros Guillaume. The latter is a much-abused Grape by those 
who have never succeeded in growing it as it should be, and also by 
those who have not even attempted to grow it, but who, neverthe¬ 
less, condemn it upon hearsay gossip. Here the Gros Guillaume is 
much valued as a late Grape. The Vines a’;e not given any more 
space to grow in than that accorded to other varieties. 
PRUNING FOR LA.RGE BUNCHES. 
Like the Syrian, Gros Guillaume has this advantage over all 
other late Grapes—namely, that either a greater number of medium¬ 
sized bunches, or a less number of abnormally large ones, according 
to the desire of the cultivator, may be taken off the Vine. A crop 
may also be had of bath large and small bunches by pruning at the 
beginning of the year two or more shoots back to a plump bud, 
irrespective of its distance on the previous year’s wood from the 
main stem, and cutting all the other shoots hard back to one eye 
from their bases. As an instance of this system of pruning Vines, 
I may be allowed to state that this year I cut two bunches of Gros 
Guillaume weighing 10 lbs. and 12 lbs. respectively, and five bunches 
ranging from 2^ lbs. to 4 lbs. each off the same Vine. I never 
reduce the shoulders of any of the bunches of this Grape at thinning 
time as was suggested recently by Mr. William Iggulden, who, I 
believe, grows the Grape creditably at Marston. I have had small 
bunches of Gros Guillaume keep plump up to the end of March, 
the berries being juicy and full of flavour. Gros Gui laume requires 
a long season to ripen it well. It does very well here in the Muscat 
house, which is started the middle of January, and also in two 
other houses of mixed late Grapes which are started a month 
later. 
OTHER LATE GRAPES. 
Alnwick Seedling and Gros Maroc I value very highly. The 
flavour of the latter is greatly improved by being grafted on the 
B ack Hamburgh stock, by which union the flavour of all late 
varieties of Grapes w-ould be improved. Gros Colman, as Mr. 
Thomson pointed out, is a noble-looking Grape when well grown, 
the berries being of great size, fleshy, and of p easant flavour if not 
eaten till January or February. Ilowever, as showing how Gros 
Colman is appreciated here, I may mention that during the week 
ending February 2r)th I have, by way of a change from medium¬ 
sized Gros Guillaume and Mrs. Pince, been sending to the Castle 
for dessert Mrs. Pince and Gros Colman, with the result that the 
former is eaten and the Gros Colman left untouched. The bunches 
are suspended from a figure, one on either side, stood on the centre 
of the dinner table, and that the bunch of Gros Colman placed 
thereon a week since is still plump and fresh. The supply of Mrs. 
Pince is renewed once and sometimes tw-ice a day, the bunches 
