March 8,188^ 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
193 
National Chrysanthemum Society, and Mr. H. Cannell tells of the first 
Chrysanthemum Show and how he befriended the Japanese—good Mr. 
Cannell 1 Mr. W. Bardney writes on Chrysanthemums in the North, 
Mr. J. Udale' on them in the Midlands, Mr. W. Iggulden noting them 
in the Western Counties, all acquitting themselves well, as might be 
expected. Four pages are devoted to prize blooms at some of the 
leading shows, and si.x to certificated 'varieties—the most complete list 
that has been compiled. The work is adorned by the portraits of those 
“good men and true,” Mr. Edward Sanderson and Mr. William Holmes, 
and its price is ls.,’post free Is. 2d., from this office. 
- It will be in the recollection of many readers that on the 
lamented death of Me. Alexander Honeyman (“ Single-handed 
an appeal was made on behalf of his widow and children. The contribu¬ 
tors to the fund will be pleased to hear that the amount raised has been 
of substantial benefit, as will be seen from the following letter, received 
by Mr. J.Wright. Mrs. Honeyman, who was placed in a small stationery 
business at Grangemouth, writes “ You will be glad to hear that we 
have succeeded beyond our expectations, as papers are always in demand. 
I can never forget that we owe it all to what was done for us through 
the Journal. All th(! children are well, and every one at school, the 
eldest in the sixth standard, the youngest in the first. I will not trespass 
longer, but again wish to thank all for their great kindness to us in the 
day of our extreme distress.” 
- Me. Joseph Mallender sends the following Summary op 
Meteorological Observations at Hodsock Prioey', Worksop, 
Notts, for February, 1888:—Mean temperature of month, 35-8°- 
Maximum on the 8th, 62‘3 ; minimum on 2Gth, 19-3°. Maximum in the 
sun on the 23rd, 111-3° ; minimum on the grass on 26th, 2-9°. Mean tern* 
perature of the air at 9 A.m., 35-2. Mean temperature of soil 1 foot 
deep, 36-3. Nights below 32°, in shade twenty, on grass twenty-four- 
Total duration of sunshine in month, sixty-one hours, or 22 per cent, 
of possible duration. We had nine sunless days. Total rainfall, 
1-29 inch. Maximum fall in twenty-four hours on the 1-tth, O'lO inch. 
Rain fell on fifteen days. App-oximate averages for February :—Mean 
temperature, 40-2°. Rainfall, FOS inch. Sunshine (seven years) fifty- 
eight hours. Colder than any of the previous twelve years except 1886. 
Nearly all the downfall came as snow, which attained a depth of about 
4 inches in the open, but drifted in places. It wasted a good deal in 
the dry winds. The proportion of winds between N.W. and N.E. is 
very large. 
SUB-TROPICAL PLANTS AND THEIR USES. 
Where opportunities exist for the favourable cultivation of 
sub-tropical plants during the summer and autumn a most agreeable 
aspect is imparted to gardens. A position well sheltered from 
south-westerly winds should be chosen, as much disfigurement may 
be caused to the leaves of many plants by strong gales of wind 
during the early part of September, and just at a time when the 
plants are expected to be in full beauty. If possible, the position 
should also be secure from north-east winds in the spring when the 
plants are first pUced in the beds, as a serious check is sometimes 
given from which they take a long time to recover. A position 
sheltered from these winds, yet open to the south to receive the sun 
freely, is best suited to the requirements of sub-tropical plants. A 
few notes on the best varieties, method of growth, and a few styles 
of arrangements may be of service to intending planters, although the 
latter is a matter to be decided according to local circumstances and 
individual taste. 
Acacia loph.antha. —This plant, distinguished by its elegant 
leaves, grows in one season from 2 to 3 feet high with one straight 
stem and numerous side branches. Towards the end of the present 
month sow the seeds singly in small [ ots of sandy peat soil, plunge 
the pots in a gentle bottom heat until the seedlings appear above 
the soil, then transfer them Into larger pots. Grow the plants close 
to the glass and gradually harden them before planting out. As 
“ dot ” plants in carpet bedding this Acacia answers well, or pljinted 
in a mass in a bed, carpeting the soil beneath them with Perilla 
nankinensis in a small state, which must be kept pinched and dwarf. 
They may also be used with good etfect in mixed beds of various 
sub-tropical plants, as the ] lants can be kept in shape if necessary 
by pinching out the points of the shoots. 
Abctilon Tiiompsonianum variegatum. —When grovm with 
a single straight stem this is a capital “ dot ” plant. It is also good 
in a mass at such a distance apart that the leaves nearly touch. A 
carpet of Agathea coelestis (Blue Marguerite) beneath makes a 
suitable groundwork. When good soil is used the plants make 
vigorous growth, and the golden marble-hke markings of the leaves 
come out boldly. Short cuttings inserted several in a pot during 
September in a gentle bottom heat make good plants if potted 
separately during February and grown in a cool house. Tops from 
stock plants may be inserted at the present time and quickly root. 
In any form the plants should not have the points of the shoots 
taken out, but be grown with one single sti-aight stem. All lateral 
growths must be removed during the summer or pinched to one eye 
as best suits the position the plants occupj-. 
Gannas. —These are well adapted for the sub-tropical garden. 
They vary so much, both in height and colour, that they may be 
used in many positions with good effect. There are many varieties, 
some having dark coppery leaves, while others are green, and many 
also bear handsome flowers. To obtain a good effect they are best 
planted in a mass. Their preparation in the spring is simple. The 
roots may be wintered in the Mushroom house or cellar, keeping 
them moderately dry, and about the middle of March divide the 
roots if laige. Place them in boxes or in pots, using any mode¬ 
rately good soil, arranging the roots in a cool house where growth will 
be steady, and not in any way drawn up weakly. From the boxes 
the plants are easily transferred to the beds without a check. 
While in pots the roots are liable to become matted around the 
sides. C. zebrina, Annei aurantiaca, Warscewiezi, and gigantea major 
are good varieties. 
Centaurea gymnocarpa. —The narrow silvery foliage of 
this Centaurea well suits for planting beneath the dark-leaved 
Castor Oil plants, or as edgings to beds with similar coloured 
leaves. The easiest way to secure a stock of plants is by sowing 
the seed in a gentle hotbed at the end of the present month or 
early in the next. Pot the plants as soon as ready, growing them 
on in a temperature of not less than G0° as near the gla^s as possible 
to prevent their drawing up weakly, hardening them off thoroughly 
previous to planting out. 
Cham.epeuce diacantha and Casabon.'E (Fish-bone Thistles). 
—The former has white foliage with long spines, the latter green 
foliage, shorter, and small brown spines. For “ dot” plants either 
is adapted when arranged with suitable colours—as, for instance, 
the white variety planted amongst Herniaria or red Alternantheras, 
and the green sort with any white or yellow bedder of dwarf habit. 
Either makes a good edging to many kinds of foliage beds. Suffi¬ 
cient space should be allowed between the plants to allow a proper 
development of the leaves. Planted alternately both varieties have 
a good effect. By treating them in the same way as advised for 
the Centaurea capital plants are easily obtained. 
Grevillea kobdsta. —An excellent plant, having Fern-like 
foliage, capitally suited for the flower garden, either as a “ dot ” 
plant or associating with others. Perhaps the former manner of 
planting this Grevillea is most suitable to its evenly balanced 
foliage when employed for bedding purposes. Seedling plants at 
the end of the first year will be from 1 to 2 feet high, and may be 
lifted from the beds early in October. Potted and wintered in a 
cool house without the loss of their leaves such plants are useful 
for other purposes in the next season. The seeds should be sown 
early in the year in a brisk bottom heat, as they take a long time 
to germinate. Pot the plants as soon as they are large enough, 
adding some peat to sandy soil, and grow them in a Melon house or 
vinery where a brisk heat is maintained until they reach a good 
size, afterwards harden them gradually. 
Humea elegans —Where these succeed they are generally 
much appreciated ; their long drooping spikes of graceful flowers, 
plume-like, are handsome. Planted singly they are the most 
attractive. In many places directly the plants are placed in the 
beds they die in a most unaccountable manner, w'hich is very dis¬ 
appointing. Sow the seed in sandy soil in a cold frame in June, 
shading from bright sun, potting them as required until 7-inch or 
even larger pots are used. A position in the cool greenhouse 
during the winter suits them best. 
Perilla nankinensis. —This and other varieties are useful 
where a little dark bronze colour is required. The plants can be 
kept dwarf, or they can be had 2 feet high, and for planting in 
mixed beds very useful. It is not wise to grow the plants too large 
before planting, as the bottom leaves are liable to fall if a check is 
given them either by cold or dryness at the roots. The middle of 
March will be early enough to sow the seed, placing the pots in 
a moist warm atmosphere, pricking the seedlings into boxes as 
soon as large enough ; by this means a sturdy dwarf habit is 
maintained. 
Kicinus africanus and Gibsoni. —Two of the best Castor Oil 
plants ; the latter, with dark foliage, usually grows from 3 to 6 feet 
high, according to the treatment it receives. It is the most commonly 
used, adapting itself to a variety of purposes, such as singly or 
mixing with other foliage or flowering subjects, such as dotting here 
