200 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
[ March 8,188S.' 
individually, as well as to horticulture generally, for by this means 
many of the secrets of plant life may be discovered, increasing our 
knowledge, and opening fresh paths to pursue the course onward. 
Knowledge being the key which unlocks the “ Golden Door ” leading to 
success, the acquiring of it should be the aim of everybody. The mere 
rudiments of elementary education are not always sufficient for the 
particular profession one may be following, but they are indispensable 
in the first instance. If to excel and get to the front be the ambition 
of a young man, something higher and extra must be sought for 
and found. 
It is an indisputable fact that the facilities possessed by the young 
men of the jiresent day are in every respect greater than those the heail 
gardeners of to-day wore blest with. Nowadays a good education can 
be procured at a comparatively small cost. 
Among the subjects which are so eminently useful botany holds a 
foremost place. A study of the classification and structure of plants 
and flowers, besides being a pleasant pursuit, is also instructive, and 
helps the gardener in the culture thereof, tliough be it understood 
botany is not indispensable to a gardener. The most useful language is 
unquestionably French. So many names of flowers, especially con¬ 
tinental varieties, are written in French that a knowledge of this 
language stands one in good stead. Thus, when an employer, or it may 
be a visitor, desires the name and meaning of a plant, it places one in 
an uncomfortable position if only a literal pronunciation can be 
rendered, at the same time being altogether ignorant of its meaning. 
Phonetic shorthand, as was forcibly pointed out by one of your corre¬ 
spondents, is very valuable, and whoever is proficient in the “ winged 
art ” must be justly proud of the achievement, for the opportunities 
to use it are endless, |and it saves much tedious handwriting. Latin 
and geometry merit mention here, the first being so extensively used in 
the nomenclature of plants, a strong recommendation to acquire it may 
be given. 
Having mentioned these subjects the next'question is. How are they 
to be learnt, and what are the facilities for acquiring them ? Schools of 
horticulture are wanting, a deficiency which will be felt more as time 
rolls on ; so self-reliance must be depended on, and he who perseveres 
will in the end attain success. Near our lar^e towns, classes for any 
subject may be attended. Some young men are indifferent to, and 
ridicule the notion of, anything beyond the practical part of their work ; 
some again have no ability or talent, and others who have the talent, 
with a desire to progress, have no facilities for doing so. 
Further, it should be the- resolve to start early in life to acquire 
these subjects, as the inclination will gradually decline as the years roll 
on, and even were this not the case, so little time can be spa"ed for this 
purpose that it would be almost useless to commence. It is not the rule 
with employers, or even head gardeners, when engaging their young 
men to inquire how far their knowledge extends. If it was the rule, 
they would bestir themselves more than is the case now, so that a better 
standard of gardeners would be the result. As a body gardeners are on 
an equal with any class in the kingdom for intelligence and intellectual 
capacity, but there is room for Improvement. Now, it is not said in 
these notes that the technical part of horticulture as mentioned above 
is indispensable to a gardener, or even necessary when commencing a 
career in this profession ; but it is said, and will be maintained, that 
the advantages to be derived are many, and will tend to place horti¬ 
culture in still higher position than it now holds,—F. K. S. 
[We have several communications on this subject, some of which will 
be inserted.] 
THE BULB MITE. 
In the Journal for February 23rd, page 1.52, “ Observer ” asks a few 
plain questions respecting the above, and the Eucharis being a general 
favourite in most gardens, I am not surprised its treatment is so often 
discussed, particularly as the plant so often fails to grow satisfactorily. 
During the last few years I have carefully studied this matter, 
having had to deal with a stock badly infested with the mite, and the 
plants had been in a bad state for some time ; indeed, I was strongly ad¬ 
vised to consign them to the fire and start with a fresh stock. On closely 
examining the plants I was not surprised to find them infested with the 
mite. The pots had scarcely any drainage, and what there was had been 
completely choked, a heavy pasty loam having been employed without 
anything to assist in making it porous, it was consequently full of 
worms and sodden with water. I resolved to start with this stock, 
and in less than twelve months I w.as proud to have under my charge 
thoroughly healthy plants, about 100 in all, with plenty of foliage and 
flowers. I am pleased to say they have remained in a healthy condi¬ 
tion since (nearly four years), and we are scarcely ever without flowers 
in winter and summer. 
In commencing I shook them out clean, thoroughly washing them in 
warm water, and cut back most of the roots close to the bulbs. I re¬ 
potted them in 10, 8, and fi-inch fots, selecting the strongest bulbs for 
the largest pots. The soil previously prepared and warmed consisted of 
two parts fibrous loam, one part peat, a little thoroughly decayed 
manure and leaf mould, a plentiful supply of coarse silver sand, and 
finely broken crocks and charcoal, with a little soot thoroughly mixed. 
Water was withheld from the roots entirely for a month, except 
syringing twdee a day, morning and afternoon, which we make a prac¬ 
tice of doing all through the year. They were placed on the front stage 
of our Banana house, where they have remained since, never plunging 
them, but shading lightly in bright weather. I was soon satisfied they 
would get the better of the mite. As the pots became fille<l with roots 
liquid manure was applied at every third watering, made from cow 
manure and soot, with a change of weak guano water occasionally, and 
since we have used Wood &; Son’s liquid manure powder, which suits 
them extremely well ; indeed, 1 consider this a fine stimulant for all 
softwooded pl.ant.s. We repot them annually, carefully removing any 
old soil we can without damaging the roots. 
Observer asks. Does the mite come in the compost in which the bulbs 
are potted ? I do not think it does, but I am fully persuaded it is owing 
to some .severe check the plants receive, and not till the plants become 
in an unhealthy state docs it make its apj.earance, some of the causes of 
which are over-potting, imperfect drainage, unsuitable soil, over¬ 
watering, using icy cold water, injudicious uses of stimulants, or sub¬ 
jecting them to extreme temperatures, &c. Secondly, he asks. Is it 
possible by a judicious system of culture to arrest and stamp it out ? 1 
do not hesitate to answer in the affirmative. 
I must confess I was not a little surprised to read your corre¬ 
spondent, Mr. A. Pettigrew’s, remarks, page 102, when he istates his 
plants require and receive a good watering three times a day during hot 
weather in summer, and a heavy wateringevery day through the winter. 
Most of our plants stand directly over hot-water pipes in rather a high 
temperature, and we only water when dry enough to receive it, which is 
certainly not oftener than once a day in the hottest weather. They 
are examined twice a day, but only those requiring water receive it. 
Care is taken to thoroughly soak them. 
I entirely agree with your correspondents, “ M. W.” and Mr. A- 
Haggart, that it is safer to err on the side of giving too little than too- 
much water, particularly when plants are not in a flourishing condition, 
—Edwin Beckett, The Gardenst, Aldenham IIou-w, Elxtrec. 
STRATAGEM PEA. 
In reply to Mr. Murphy (page 141)) I may state that the number of 
pods given—viz., forty to a plant, was the aggregate crop for the season, 
and I am certain I have not overstated the quantity. As to the number 
of peas in the pods, I know that eight to ten will be produced with good 
cultivation. 1 know an amateur who has grown Stratagem Peas with 
plenty of pods containing twelve peas each. About 4 l*^- seed was- 
sown in a 12 foot row, and the plants grown without any of the orthodox 
topping or thinning of pods. I have no doubt the distance at which I 
sowed the Peas might be disastrous in some soils poisoned with manure, 
and lacking the essential constituents necessary for building up a robust, 
sturdy, fruitful Pea plant, and possibly with the additional disadvan-' 
tage of growing in a high walled garden without the benefit of a good 
breeze of wind to consolidate the growth. On the windy uplands of 
Kilmalcolm they do .as well so vn thickly as described, when supplied 
with the required stimuhants, as they do in other places with four times^ 
the distance between them, while being free fiom mildew and every 
other ailment to which Peas are subject when grown in soil containing 
a gross accumulation of vegetable matter. As a preventive against 
ground vermin .and mice I steep the peas in naphtha for twenty-four 
hours before sowing, and I find it also a remedy against the seed souring 
in the soil should very wet cold weather succeed the sowini of early 
Peas. Early Peas forwarded inside when planted out are cut down 
here in spite of all means taken to prevent it.—J ohn Swan. 
FRUIT PACKING. 
Your correspondents, Mr. Tresder and “ W. H.,’’ referring to my 
criticism on Mr. Pettigrew’s method of fruit packing, justly remark that 
it c.an be of no service unless my own ideas are more fully explained, 
which 1 will endeavour to do. Mr. Pettigrew advocates hay as a packing 
material, and spares no pains in describing his mode of usin^ it, but 
unfortunately he does not say why he prefers it to paper sh.avings, as 
the latter in my opinion is preferable in all respects. What I was most 
struck with, however, was Mr. Pettigrew’s system of Grape packing, 
described in page 8, as I maintain, without fear of contradiction, that 
nothing that touches the bloom of Grapes ca.n protect it. Therefore, 
my mode of packing in order to secure the bloom on one side of the 
bunches is as follows. 1 have wooden boxes for the purpose partitioned, 
e.ach space to contain two bunches, the partitions being made of v.arious 
sizes, so that large and small bunches can be made equally secure in 
each division. I have a thick l.ayer of paper shavings covering the 
same, and the partitions with wadding, thickening both materials to th-j 
sides of the box, so as to give the bed as much fall to the centre of the. 
box as its depth and size of bunch will permit. The whole is then 
smoothly lined with tissue paper, and the box is ready to be taken to 
the vinery. The bunches as they are cut are tied at the stem with a 
string, and the bun h laid in the divisions, according to the size, best side 
up. Two holes are then bored in the side of the box, through which the 
string, is drawn and securely tied. A sheet of paper is then stretched 
over the partitions to protect the Grapes from dust, the lid then lacing 
made secure. I will venture to say, whether they have to travel both 
by land and water, if kept right side up, one side of the bunch .at the 
journey’s end will be looking almost as perfect as when they were cut 
from the Vines. 
I .also take exception to Mr. Pettigrew’s mode of Peach packing. 
He recommends the use of two ’ooxes, tin and wood. The former I do 
not find necessary. The box I use is made of wood divisioned in various- 
sizes, suitable both for Peaches and Nectarines. Mr. Pettigrew also 
recommends rolling the Peaches in the packing materials, and dropping 
