210 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
|[ March 15,1858; 
“ I expect to be told that gate money at South Kensington was 
a failure, but it must be remembered that during the Colonial and 
other Exhibitions the Society did not charge for entrance. 
“ If, as I have known, £o0 be taken as gate money in Fins¬ 
bury Circus for the exhibition of a few sickly plants grown in the 
City, surely the Council may reasonably expect to take at least 
£200 during the whole year at shows at SVestminster.” 
No one can doubt that Mr. Smee and his coadjutors have been 
animated with an earnest desire to place the Society on a firmer 
basis ; and anything that we can do we shall do most willingly 
towards “gaining funds for the maintenance of Chiswick.” Though 
showing in the past has, with rare exceptions, been the exact re¬ 
verse of remunerative, it does not follow that the new departure in 
taking flowers and fruits to the multitude may not have better 
results. The plan has to be tried, and it shall, so far as we are con¬ 
cerned, have a fair trial in the earnest hope that it will fulfil the 
expectations of its projectors. It cannot be forgotten, however, 
that the most profitable Exhibition the Society has had of late 
years was at Chiswick, where “ people will not go,” but did go to 
see the Apples and left a good profit behind them. Moreover, the 
local shows held yearly in the gardens have been much better 
attended than the ordinary “ meeting-shows ” have at South 
Kensington. Westminster, however, is fresh ground, and may 
prove fertile, though many well-wishers of the Society who favour 
a forward policy are of opinion a bolder move to the business heart 
of the City of London would have brought more support. Be that 
as it may, the plan to pursue is for all well-wishers of the Society 
to act cordially in supporting it on the lines laid down for its 
future working with the object of achieving a distinct success. 
VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION. 
POTATOES AND PEAS. 
As an old showman in several counties, and not entirely unsuc¬ 
cessful, I have been asked to give selections of varieties and methods 
of growing them for the purpose in question. Even cultivators 
who never exhibit their produce should all the same endeavour to 
grow it in the best possible manner, and as if the different kinds 
had to be staged in competition at the leading shows. 
No collection of vegetables, however limited in number, 
may be said to be complete without a dish of Potatoes, 
.fudges always expect to find them, and are apt to form an un¬ 
favourable opinion of any collection from which they are absent. 
I have also observed that rounds used to be preferred to kidneys, 
but of late years this has been less perceptible, many of the so- 
called kidneys more nearly approaching the rounds both as regards 
the roughness of the skins and shape. Prizes nowadays are rarely 
offered for large collections of Potatoes, and I am glad that such is 
the case, as these only tend to encourage the cultivation of too many 
varieties. Supposing twelve varieties can be grown, I would re¬ 
commend of kidneys, Snowdrop, Sutton’s Seedling, Cosmopoli¬ 
tan, Carter’s Surprise, Cole’s Favourite, and Welford Park ; and 
rounds, Reading Russet or the improved form Carter’s King of the 
Russets, Schoolmaster, Sutton’s Satisfaction, Prime Minister, Vicar 
of Laleham, and Village Blacksmith. If room can be spared try 
also some of the many novelties now being distributed. Among 
these may perhaps be found some superior to any named in my 
s election. 
Potatoes generally delight in deeply worked fresh soil, any that 
is “ manure sick ” being altogether unsuited to them. The latter 
may be improved by bastard trenching, and sometimes a dressing of 
quicklime will work wonders. The ground being in a sweet con¬ 
dition a fairly liberal dressing of farmyard manure may safely be 
given, the tubers, however, not coming in contact with it. When I 
have to deal with stiff clayey soil such as abounds in some parts of 
Kent and Sussex, as well as largely in Essex, Middlesex, and 
Somerset, I found it almost impossible to grow handsome tubers 
without special pains being taken with the soil. During the winter 
a large quantity of old sifted potting soil, as much leaf soil as could 
be spared, and plenty of ashes from tbe heap of burnt garden 
refuse were all thrown together and well mixed ready for planting 
time. As early in April as the ground could be ventured on with¬ 
out causing it to bind badly it was deeply stirred and all lumps 
broken, this being either done with the fork or the two-tined 
Canterbury hoe. The rows being next lined out a good layer of 
the prepared fine soil was forked in where these would run, and the 
drill being opened with either a half-mattock or Canterbury hoe ; 
this is still further mixed with the soil. Contrast this with the 
usual surface scratchings with lumpy soil underneath, and it will 
soon be seen where the advantage rests. Drills 6 inches deep are 
suitable, and the heavier the land the greater the need to plant on 
or near the surface. 
Pains should also be taken with the preparation of the sets as'- 
well as the soil for their reception. In the case of some kidneys, 
notably those of the Ashleaf and Lapstone types, the loss of the- 
primary central sprouts simply spoils the set, and it is very unwise 
to allow any of the other rounds and kidneys to sprout prematurely,, 
this greatly weakening them. What is wanted in all cMes is one- 
strong sprout, and this, if duly preserved, no other side shoots 
being allowed to grow, will eventually yield better crops and larger 
tubers than those sets that are allowed to develope a quantity of 
weakly and but little branching haulm. With the exception of the; 
two types named it is not imperative to plant whole sets, but as a 
rule I prefer medium sized whole tubers, removing all but one 
strong sprout from them prior to planting. Cut sets to be similarly 
treated and also d-pped in slaked lime, as this checks bleeding and 
keeps slugs away. Crowding either the rows or sets being unprofit¬ 
able, the former ought to be not less than 3 feet apart and the sets 
from 10 inches to 12 inches asunder in the rows. I prefer to plant 
sets already sprouted to a length of 2 inches, these being first 
moulded over with the hand prior to levelling the whole of the soil 
about them. Thus treated an even row is secured, and when one 
strong sprout has taken the lead side shoots make no headway. 
Now, a few words a.s to artificial manures. I have tried many, and 
on the whole give the preference to superphosphate of lime. A 
hundredweight of this, which costs about 7s. 6d., will go a long way. 
It is best applied in the open drills prior to planting, and I cannot 
better state the precise quantity to be used other than by advising 
it to be sprinkled over the soil much as salt or pepper is used over 
cooked meat or vegetables, only enough to season it being given. 
Any other strong artificial or specially prepared manures must also 
be used in moderation, and failing any of these soot may be freely 
dusted along the drills. 
Directly any of the shoots show through the soil protect them 
in some way, as if thus early frosted they seldom properly recover. 
Soil drawn up to and over them is the simplest way of protecting 
the tender haulm, but an enthusiast will not hesitate to use inverted 
flower pots with the holes covered, branches of evergreens, or straw 
litter, if a frost is anticipated after the haulm has grown consider¬ 
ably. When the haulm is about 6 inches high the ground on each 
side of the rows should be well loosened with the hoe and the final 
moulding-up given. I ought perhaps to add that it is advisable to 
thin out the haulm where unfortunately several growths have 
developed, this being done prior to moulding-up. Watering between 
the rows has been tried during a hot and dry summer, but I failed to 
detect any benefit derived therefrom. According to my experience, 
if the ground is well manured and carefully prepared, it must be a 
very dry season indeed that will spoil the growth of the Potatoes. 
What few rows of exhibition varieties we grew last season succeeded 
admirably in spite of the drought. 
A good dish of Peas always counts well in a eollection of 
vegetables, and at many shows there are also prizes offered for one 
or more dishes. With several kinds of vegetables it is possible to 
obtain good dishes for exhibition from the ordinary crops, but this 
rarely happens in the case of Peas. They must have extra pains 
taken with them, and they pay for the trouble. As most gardens 
differ materially in the character of the soil, it follows that its 
preparation ought also to be varied. Should it be naturally deep 
and well drained, double digging may safely be resorted to, plenty 
of solid manure being mixed with each spit. If the soil is cold 
and heavy, resting on a clayey subsoil, it is unwise to encourage a 
deep root run. A favourite plan with many Pea growers is to form 
Celery-like trenches for their rows, this concentrating the manure, 
and also admitting of water being more easily applied. I do not 
believe in the practice ; in fact, am not sure it is wise even in the 
case of Celery. When the roots are confined to a narrow trench 
they are almost as much dependent on the watering pot as are 
plants in pots. If it is either impossible or unwise to trench or 
double dig the whole of the quarter, either double dig a space at 
least 3 feet wide for each row, or else be content with well manuring 
and deeply digging the whole of the ^ound, this encouraging the 
roots to spread right and left—an obvious gain. It is also of im¬ 
portance that the heavy ground be prepared early in order that the 
surface may become well pulverised, the seed germinating and the 
young plants growing away more freely under such conditions. 
It is of importance that the Peas be at their best just when 
most wanted, the earliest pods usually being the best. No exact 
dates for sowing can be given, so much depending upon the weather 
experienced and the variety sown. As a rule they may be gathered 
in about fourteen weeks from the time of sowing, an extra week at 
least being allowed for known late varieties. They must also, 
whether tall growing or of comparatively dwarf habit, have plenty 
