224 
JOUnXAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
r March 15, 1888. 
the leaves flagging ; when roots are formed, which will be in about three 
weeks’ time, gradually give more air, and pinch out the point of the lead¬ 
ing shoot. Side branches will then form, and if small plants are 
required one topping of the shoot will be enough, while to have larger 
plants the side shoots when 4 inches long should be pinched also. 
Where the plants were struck singly in2i-inch pots, as soon as roots 
are freely formed repot these into 4-inch pots, using a compost of two 
parts fibry loam, one part leaf soil, and one part of spent Mushroom 
bed manure, adding sharp sdver sand freely. Where the plants were 
struck three in a pot they should be transferred singly into 3-inch pots, 
placing them where they can be kept rather close for a time until new 
roots are formed, and the plants will bear exposure without flagging, 
then remove them where more air can be given to induce a stocky 
growth. By removing the plants to a cold frame as soon as possible, 
giving an abundance of air in favourable weather, much may be done to 
prevent their being drawn up weakly. Repot again when the pots are 
filled with roots. Useful plants may be grown in 8-inch pots, but if an 
extra large size is needed i)-inchand even 10-inch pots may be employed. 
For the final potting add to the previously named soil some finely 
ground bones and a small quantity of soot. Charcoal will be of immense 
advantage if the soil is heavy, keeping the whole sweet and porous. The 
soil should be used in a rough condition, and be made quite firm at this 
last potting, as this prevents gross growth. Short, firm, well ripened 
shoots produce the best results ; long spikes branching freely in a 
natural manner give better results than continually pinching the shoots 
up to the middle of June. For the smallest plants three or four 
branches are sufficient to retain from the first stopping, but in the larger 
size about eight are enough to produce large bushes. If three shoots are 
produced from the first topping a dozen will spring from the second ; 
select from these the number required and tie them securely to stakes. 
At the natural break of the plants in August many more shoots will be 
produced than is required ; these must be disbudded to the requisite 
number, about twenty-four on the largest, half that number on the 
smallest, and from these numerous side shoots will grow and bloom. 
After the central flowers are cut others are produced by the side shoots 
in succession. If the plants are housed in succession and some are tem¬ 
porarily protected from frost before they are placed in the houses the 
season will be much prolonged. 
Stand the plants out of doors as soon as safe from frost, selecting an 
open sunny position, yet protected from north and east winds. Place 
the pots on a thick layer of coal ashes or boards to prevent the ingress of 
worms, supplying water to the roots carefully. Directly the pots are 
well filled with roots apply liquid manure about three times a week, 
increasing the strength and number of times as time goes on, until it 
may be given every time the plants need water. Syringe in the even¬ 
ings after hot days. Allow all flower buds to develope, except where a 
few larger flowers are desired, then the centre bud on each shoot must be 
■saved, removing all others ; but for show purposes in a cut state it is 
better to cultivate a few plants specially. The bush plants previously 
noted must not be formally trained by placing a stake to each branch ; 
or to secure two or three branches to one stake in a loose manner, 
which is all they really need, as they are generally of upright habit, 
and in many cases almost self-supporting. 
Where exhibition is the primary object of growing single Chrysan* 
themums a different form must be adopted. The manner in which 
societies frame their classes for single Chrysanthemum cut blooms will 
guide the cultivator in the method the plants must be grown. If twelve 
bunches, three blooms to a bunch, be asked for, as is often the cas*e, the 
plants should be grown by the '• large bloom ” method. Blooms 
■skilfully grown and carefully set up for exhibition find many admirers. 
When twelve bunches, unlimited in size, are required the “bush” 
method is the best. If the former plan is decided upon the cuttings 
■should be inserted singly in small pots without delay, using the soil of a 
sandy character. Select the best cuttings. Those stout and not in any 
way drawn weakly by overcrowding answer the best, because many of 
the varieties are naturally slender in habit of growth, and to produce 
the best results they must be grown as strongly as possible. Shift into 
larger pots as needful, never allowing them to become root-bound. 
Place the plants into cold frames as soon as possible, giving abundance 
of air as the plants become hardier and strong. Do not top the plants, 
but train up the leading shoot until it forms its first natural break, 
•selecting three to six of the most promising growths. Secure these to 
stakes in the same manner as adopted for the large-flowered varieties. 
At the next break, should it occur during the first week in August, 
remove the flower buds then formed, and continue the growth of the 
shoots until the next break ; then remove all growths, retaining the buds 
60 formed to develope into the show blooms. I’ots 8 inches in diameter 
are quite large enough, and give the same attention to the plants during 
the season as to the others grown for large bloom. 1 give a list of the 
varieties suitable for growing as bush plants, also for exhibition in a cut 
atate. The first twelve named in the list are best suited for exhibition. 
I place them in this manner to avoid a repetition of names. Lady 
■Churchill, brick red; Jane, white, having beautifully twisted long 
drooping florets ; Mrs. Wills, white suffused with pink ; America, blush, 
large; Helianthus, bronze yellow; Queen of Yellows, yellow; Crushed 
Strawberry, colour as its name implies ; Patience, amaranth tipped 
white ; White Perfection, white; Oriflamme, reddish brown; Mrs. 
Duke, pale lilac ; Mrs. Langtry, pale pink ; Lady Brooke, bright yellow, 
buttercup form ; Meteor, dark ; Oscar Wilde, dull brick red ; Miss 
Gordon, light pink with long drooping florets ; Miss Lulu Martin, smalt 
pink.— E. Molynedx. 
A GOOD IXSECT DESTROYER. 
Last spring my employer sent me from London three tins of a 
powder called “ Insect Death,” a wonderful dust discovered and used 
by Mr. Rowland Ward, F.Z.A., with a request that I would try it upon 
some of my plants for the destruction of green fly and thrips. Since that 
time and up to the present I have repeatedly tried it, and have in every 
case found it most effectual ; in fact within two hours" after its appli¬ 
cation it has been difficult to find one insect alive. It is sold in tins 
at Is. each holding something like a quarter of a pound. The tins have 
perforated tops with a sliding piece over that, so as to close the holes 
when not in use. It is essential that the powder should be kept dry, 
and should always be applied when the foliage of the plants is dry. I 
have tried it upon Rose trees both outdoors and in the houses. Cinerarias, 
Pelargoniums, and other softwooded plants, and it has proved invalu¬ 
able. I also used it upon some Azaleas that were infested with thrips 
by dusting the leaves underneath as well as the tops, and it destroyed 
them. I therefore recommend not only gardeners to try it, but more 
particularly amateurs and Rose growers generally. Whatever its ingre¬ 
dients may be it has a pleasant smell, and therefore in no way disa^ee- 
able to use, and is easily and quickly applied. It is a saying, for it is 
much better to dust a few plants than to have to fumigate a whole 
house for their destruction. I have reason to think it will destroy 
mildew on Roses, for I treated half a dozen plants affected with that 
malady and they became clear of it, but before being quite sure I intend 
to make other trials. Mealy bug also soon shifts its quarters when 
it is applied to them, but .1 am not sure that it kills them without 
another trial. I had three tins, and have only used half of the dust, so 
one tin will last a long time. On all softwooded plants when the 
powder will hang well very little is needed, but for hardwooded plants 
and those with harder foliage a little more can be used. The powder 
is easily washed off with the syringe Ought it not to be advertised ? 
—Thomas Recokd, Folkington Manor.. 
THE NEWCASTLE SHOW FRUIT. 
I MUCH regret to find Tomatoes mentioned in the first prize 
collection, page 201, which is an error. I beg you will please to correct 
without delay, as I wish to be as correct as possible in this matter. I 
may be excused from replyingto“Oneof the Judges” so long as he with¬ 
holds his name, for I am in the same fix with anonymous writers as the 
schoolboy was with an egg. Wnen asked to state the gender, answered, 
“ He could not until hatched.” So while my friends remain in embryo 
I shall remain mute. I notice in your correspondence you advocate the 
insertion of a clause in prize schedules that all “ protests be lodged by 
a given time.” If this is intended for me, I beg to remind you that an 
allusion is not a complaint, and I never intended my remarks on page 82 
as such ; but as “ Old Hand ” seemed somewhat alarmed at my position, 
and required further proof, I felt it necessary to assure him of my 
comfort and supply wh'at he asked for, which I hope I have done to his 
satisfaction.—J. H. Goodacee. 
[The sentence including Tomatoes was printed exactly as it was 
written by our correspondent, who it seems does take a little notice of 
anonymous matter, and he is quite in error in supposing the reply on 
page 207 was intended for himself. It was an answer to a correspondent 
who was not interested in the above Show. We have communi¬ 
cations from Mr. Hunter and another correspondent, for which space 
cannot be found this week.] 
NEWTON’S PATENT GLAZING. 
From time to time various systems of dry glazing have been 
brought before the public ; but the best 1 have seen is the above, 
which has been advertised in the Journal of Jfortieultttra for some 
time, and, in my opinion, only requires to be batter known to be more 
generally adopted. I shall remark on facts (and they are stubborn 
things) which have come under ray observation. Some eighteen months 
ago Mr. Newton had instructions to erect a greenhouse, 30 feet by 
Ifi feet, three-quarter span, on his new principle, for W. Tindall Lucas, 
Esq., at his residence. The Foxholes, Hitchin. Anyone with a knowledge 
of the locality will admit that it is one of the bleakest and most exposed 
in the neighbourhood—just such a place as a miller would like to place 
a windmill. It is not uncommon for pit lights to take flight during 
high winds. It was a bold venture to attempt sufii a system of glazing 
in the situation, and I think Mr. Lucas must have had some misgivings 
as to the practicability of it, for he had wood rafters fixed at intervals so 
as to be able to revert to the old system in case of failure ; and another 
proof of a suspicious nature was that a portion of the roof was glazed 
on the old lines—viz., bedded in putty on the new patented bars, but the 
portion glazed dry has weathered the storms without any breakages 
whatever. Mr. Lucas speaks highly of the system, as also does the head 
gardener, Mr. Sheppard. The glazing bars are light in app -arance, yet 
strong. The glass is fitted in so true, so that the roof appears wind- 
proof and waterproof, all moisture being conveyed away in the guttered 
part of the bar under the glass, as shown in the illustrated advertise¬ 
ment. Great credit is due to Mr. Newton for honesty of purpose in not 
placing his invention before the jiublic before giving it a very severe 
1 trial. As the iron bars are galvaniseil no painting is required (at 
least, that is optional), so that the after cost is reduced to a minimum, 
and I am told the price is about the same as the old method of wood and 
