March lo, 1%8. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
225 
putty glazing. I am of opinion that when the Newton system beeomes 
better known it will gain favour with nurserymen and trade growers, 
and it should be well adapted for moisturedoving plants, such as Orchids, 
also for propagating houses. I have always looked upon iron houses as 
liable to sudden variations of heat and cold, and when tightly glazed 
on the old plan with putty are subject to a good deal of breakage from 
expansion and contraction, but this difficulty seems to be overcome in 
dry glazing. 
At Mr. Newton’s residence there are two lean-to houses of about 
equal dimensions heated with hot water from the same boiler. The 
first. No. 1, is glazed in the old style with putty and paint, the sash- 
bars being wood; the other. No. 2, is glazed on the Newton system dry. The 
house. No. 1, has a brick end: the other. No. 2, glass, so that there is a 
greater surface of glass in No. 2, but the heating surface is greater in No. 1, 
yet the thermometer in No. 1 only stood 2® high^er than in No. 2. It seemed 
rather remarkable that this house should retain its heat so well. This 
is a further proof that the heat does not escape as might be imagined 
between the bars and the glass. Mr. G. Sheppard, gardener at The Fox¬ 
holes, says he finds no difficulty in keeping up a night temperature of 
65°, and that speaks volumes for the system in such an exposed place, 
but the light in Mr. Newton's houses is very striking as compared with 
the old system, and the colouring in the foliage of the plants is more 
decided.—G. R. Allis, Old Warden Park 
WORK.FOilTm WEEK.. O 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Grafting Fruit Trees.—A long spell of cold weather has re¬ 
tarded the flow of sap in fruit trees generally, and the operation of 
grafting may yet be carried out with every prospect of success. It is 
the usual practice to cleanly cut off the stocks where they are to be 
grafted in January, but this, though advisable, is not absolutely essen¬ 
tial, and it may be done just prior to grafting. There is much to be 
said in favour of grafting, anrl the younger gardeners especially ought 
to practise it extensively. For instance, what at present may be a com¬ 
paratively worthless tree, the variety being of no value, may in the 
course of three or four years be completely changed in character by 
simply covering it with grafts of a superior variety. Grafting seedling 
fruits on a strong stock is the quickest way of testing their merits, and 
a vigorous or seedling stock of inferior variety will transmit much of its 
vigour to a naturally weakly scion. 
Apples. —Any strong standards of inferior varieties ought to have 
all the principal branches, or say- those 3 inches or rather more in cir¬ 
cumference, fret ly cut back, cleanly sawn off, each being then grafted. 
IVhat is known as crown or rind grafting is the best in this case, two 
grafts being inserted in each small branch and three in the larger ones, 
and if firmly tied and properly clayed over not many failures will occur. 
All or nearly all should make good growth the same season, and if these 
branches are not pruned in any way a good fr-aiting trf e will soon result. 
Strong young and well-ripened growths about 6 inches long saved at 
pruning time and kept plunged in the open ground are the best for 
grafting, these being dormant when used. Superior dessert varieties, 
such as Cox’s Orange Pippin, Blenheim Pippin, Margil, Ribston Pippin, 
Adam’s Pearmain, Braddick’s Nonpareil, Court Perdu Pldt, Lord Burgh- 
ley, and Brownlee’s Russet ought to be preferred. If culinary varieties 
are needed, some of the best are Lord Suffield, Stirling Castle, Keswick 
Codlin, English or Carlisle Codlin, Beauty of Kent, Kentish Fillbasket, 
Lemon Pippin, Wellington, French Crab, and Hanwell Souring. 
Pears. —Either standards or pyramids may be cut back and regrafted 
much as advised in the case of Apples, these coming into full bearing 
even more quickly than Apples. There are thousands of wall trees of 
Pears in this country not worthy of the space occupied, many of them 
being merely preserved owing to the complete manner in which they 
furnish the walls. Horizontally trained trees may have all the side 
branches sawn back to within 6 inches of the main stem, in each stump 
being inserted two good grafts of a superior variety. Only one, however, 
of these should be allowed to grow, and a good leading shoot being laid 
in from each reserved graft, no shortening back being resorted to, it is 
not long before the wall is again furnished with bearing wood. If it be 
preferred several varieties may be grafted on to each tree. Stunted 
branches or leatlers on Pear trees are often an eyesore, these disfiguring 
what otherwise would have been a handsome tree. If t’ e e are light’y 
shortened back and grafted with a healthy scion, not necessarily of tte 
same variety as the re.st of the tree, the chances are a strong lead will 
again be available and the whole of the wall space soon covered. Either 
whip grafting or saildle grafting may be practised in this and all other 
instances when the stock and scion are of about equal girth. Pears 
worthy of extended culture are Jargonelle, Williams’ Bon Chretien, 
Beurr6 d’AmanlL", Beurrd Superfin, Pitmaston Duchess, Marie Louise, 
Doyennb du Comice, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Easter Beurrei, Glou 
Morceau, Winter Nelis, Josephine de Malines, Beurrd d’Arembuiv, 
Ollivier de Serres, Bergamotte Esperen, and Madame Millet. Grafted 
on the Quicce Pe.ars soon come into bearing order, but the best trees are 
to be had on the common Pear stock. 
Plums may also be grafted now, the spawn or suckers thrown up 
from the roots of old trees frequcntl}'^ being preserved till strong chough 
to form stocks for choice Plums. All the Gages, Jefferson, Kirke s, 
Victoria, Coe’s Golden Drop, and Blue Im^ratrice, are valuable 
varieties. 
Cherries, provided the scions were taken off early and thus pre¬ 
vented from starting into growth, are not difficult to graft. Old trees- 
may be shortened back and re-grafted, or seedling wild Cherry stocks 
may be headed down and grafted. Good dessert varieties are Knight s 
Early Black, Elton, May Duke, Black Tartarian, Bigarreau Napoleon, 
and Morello. Peaches and Nectarines are generally increased by bud¬ 
ding, but common Plum stocks may be headed down and graftei with 
them. In this case a short piece of two-year-old wood must be attached 
to the young growth to be grafted. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Larlie-tt-forccd Trees. —During the 
stoning process the temperature must be kept as equable as possible. 
Too high a night temperature is not favourable to the fruit, and cold 
draughts in the daytime are even more injurious. Continue the tempera¬ 
ture at 60° to 65° at night, and 70° to 75° during the day. Thinning the 
fruit must be attended to betimes, it not being advisable to leave during 
the stoning period more than twice the number of fruits that are to be 
left for a crop. One fruit to a square foot of trellis covered with foliage 
is ample. Nectarines are often left much closer, which proportionally 
lessens their size, whereas to secure fine fruits they require the 
same space as Peaches. See that all the shoots are tied to the wires as 
they progress, stopping any gross shoots at a length of about 15 inches. 
If the pinching results in laterals stop them at the first leaf, and if 
extension is wanted the uppermost lateral may be trained in as a- 
continuation. If the trees are in good order there will be little necessity 
for stopping the shoots, they being trained in their full length, allowing 
space for the development of the foliage in order to solidify the wood 
as made. Shoots retained to attract the sap to the fruit should te 
stopped to one leaf, they having previously had the first growth stopped 
at the second or third leaf. 
Second Early-forced Trees. —Attend to disbudding, a shoot being 
taken from the base of the present year’s bearing wood or last year s 
young wood, and one on a level with or beyond the fruit may be stopped 
at the second or third leaf. Upon extensions leave young shoots at 15 to 
18 inches distance, the shoot from the extremity being trained as a 
continuation of the primary branch. The main shoots must be 12 inches 
apart. Commence tying early, as when the shoots are allowed to grow 
considerably they cannot be brought near to the wood they proceed from 
without danger of their breaking off. Overcrowding must be carefully 
guarded against ; it is fatal to fine high coloured fruits and the formation 
and perfection of the wood for future crops. Thin the fruits by degrees, 
leaving those well placed upon the upper side of the trellis in sufficient 
quantity for a crop or a little more until the final thinning before 
stoning. In no case is it good practice to tax the trees with superflu(ms 
fruit after it is the size of marbles. Temperature 55° to 60° at night, 
65° by day, increasing to 70° to 75°. 
IIoKses Started at the Beginniny of February. —In these the trees 
are in full flower, and some have set their fruits. Continue to fertilise 
the blossoms on late trees when the pollen is ripe, as we have not 
derived any aid from bees, which, owing to the cold weather, are 
“ napping ” longer than usual. When the blossom is all set recourse 
must be had to syringing in the morning and afternoon, having the 
foliage and young fruit dry before nightfall. Disbudding may be done 
gradually, commencing with the strongest shoots, also thinning the fruits 
after it is seen which takes the lead in swelling, removing the sm^lest 
first, but avoid large reductions of shoots or of fruit at one time. Tem¬ 
perature, 55° at night, 5° less on cold mornings ; 55° to 60 by day, 
advancing to 65° or 70° from sun. 
Houses Started Early in March.—Xh.Q flowers are expand ng, and we 
cease syringing directly the anthers show clear of the corolla, but damp- 
the floors and border, admitting air freely in mild weather, fertilising 
the flowers on fine days. Maintain the night temperature at 45 to 50 , 
55° by day artificially, and 65° from sun heat. Admit a little air con¬ 
stantly. Superfluous flowers on the under side or back of the shoots 
may be removed by drawing the hand down the growth. 
Late Houses. — Replace the lights at once, the buds being well 
advanced in swelling, promising an abundant crop. Nothing conduces- 
so much to a good set as turning on the heat for a short time in the 
early part of the day, to advance the temperature to 50°, and to permit 
of ventilation after the flowers expand, as if there be a prevalence of 
dull cold weather at that time, closing the ventilators for safety produces 
an atmosphere that converts the pollen into paste. Houses th.at have 
fixed roof lights must have the borders rendered thoroughly moist. It 
there be any trace of aphides fumigate thoroughly before the flowers 
^Melons. —Notwithstanding the cold weather early plants have made 
good growth, and are showing fruits upon the first laterals. To ensure, 
the fruit setting it is necessary to afford a bottom heat of 8tr to so , 
and sufficient moisture only in the soil to prevent the foliage flagging. 
This will arrest the growth, and in combination with a dry atmosphere 
—a circulation of warm air passing through the house—will favour the 
production of pollen. Fertilise the flowers every day, and stop the 
shoots one joint beyond the fruit. When the fruits commence swelling 
place warm soil against the sides of the ridges or hillocks. Supply 
water as required, avoiding a soddened condition of the soil, and to 
