JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
^2G 
r arch 15, 18 8. 
assist the swellin? afford liquid manure, maintaining a good moisture by 
sprinkling evi-ry available surface morning and evening, and sj^ringe 
the plants lightly at closing time in bright weather. If a succession of 
fruit be required in the same house some of the plants should be 
deprived of the'flowers if they appear on the first laterals, and stopping 
these at the third joint will cause the sub-laterals to apjrear and show 
fruit, which will be rather later and finer owing to the increased vigour 
lOf the plants. 
Plants in pits and frames with the shoots trained over the surface 
will require to be treated in a similar manner to Cucumbers, detailed 
below, lining the beds and adding soil as the plants advance in growth. 
Train and regulate the shoots, removing every alternate lateral, and 
•apply water only to maintain a steady growth. The soil should be well 
firmed so as to secure a sturdy short-jointed growth. As soon as the 
plants are ready they must be planted in beds properly prepared, and 
seedlings potted. Seed may be sown to raise plants for succession, 
also for pits or frames as they become cleared of Radishes or early 
Potatoes, about five weeks being required to secure strong plants. 
Cucumbers. —Pit and Frames Heated hy Fermentiny Materials .— 
Reds that have been formed a few weeks will need good linings. Remove 
•■as much of the outside of the beds as can well be spared, and if the 
heat has not greatly declined it will suffice for the present if one half 
the bed be lined, deferring the other half until the heat is again declin¬ 
ing. In any case let it be applied to the width of 2 feet, as thin linings 
are of little use, and soon require renewal. When the heat is up in the 
linings see that there is no accumulation of rank steam in the frame, 
especially when the sun is powerful, preventing it by ventilation. A 
good night covering will be necessary to maintain a temperature of 05° 
*to 70° at night. Admit a little air at 75°, and permit the temperature 
to increase to 85° or 90°, closing at 80° to 85°, not, however, causing the 
temperature afterwards to exceed 90°. Add a little more soil as the 
roots spread themselves on the surface. Attend to training and pegging 
down the shoots, being careful not to overcrowd thenr. Stop the leading 
■shoots a foot from the sides of the frame, and the laterals at one or two 
joints beyond the fruit. In watering avoid wetting the foliage as much 
as possible. Sow seed to obtain plants for growing in pits or frames 
that have been occupied by early Potatoes. 
Cherry House. — It will soon be seen wffiether the fertilising 
was effectual, as the Cherries will be swelling at the base of the 
decayed flowers, when syringing may be resumed, once a day at present, 
and twice a day when the weather is clear and warm. Fire heat will 
only be necessary to prevent the temperature falling below 40° at night, 
and to maintain 50° as a minimum by day. Ventilate at 50°, closing at 
the same, regulating the ventilation according to circumstances. If 
green aphides appear fumigate the house, having the foliage dry, and 
keep a strict look out for grubs. Stopping will soon require attention. 
Pinch out the points of the shoots when they have made 4 to 5 inches 
of gi'owth, removing those shoots that are not required. Train exten¬ 
sions in their full length, also those for filling vacant space. Over¬ 
crowding must be carefully guarded against, it being prejudicial both 
'to the present and future crops. 
Pines. —Rooting potted suckers will be indicated by the growth of 
t’ e foliage, but it is well to turn the plants out of the pots, or at least 
n portion of them, so as to ascertain the condition of the roots and the 
soil. The young roots which issue from suckers, or plants subjected to 
iBimilar treatmoit are very tender and susceptible of injury from the 
effects of too much bottom heat, hence when the roots reach the sides of 
the pots 85° is ample, above which there is danger. When the bottom 
heat is excessive the pots may be raised, placing some loose tan under 
nnd around them, so as to allow the superabundant heat to pass away 
without injuring the roots. The plants must be carefully supplied with 
water. 
Established plants will now make roots rapidly, therefore have soil 
■ready for transferring them to the fruiting pots, as it is important that 
they be grown on without check by being either dry or rootbound. 
Sound fibrous loam in good sized lumps is the best material for potting, 
pressing it firmly round the balls of the plants, watering the plants with 
tepid water, and plunging them in a bottom heat of 90° to 95° until 
the roots have possession of the fresh soil, when 85° is more suitable. 
Fruiting plants, and those that are at or n^ar the flowering state 
-should have a night temperature of 65° to 70°, and 75° by day, with 
.80° to 90° from sun heat, closing at 85°, well damping all available 
surfaces in the' house at that time. Afford succession plants a bottom 
heat of about 85°, ventilating at 80°, and closing at 85°, lightly sprinkling 
^hc plants occasionally. 
Figs. —Earliest Forced Trees in Pots .—The eariest trees, or those 
started early in December, will be induced to swell their fruits by a top¬ 
dressing of rich material applied to the surface of the soil, and if a layer 
■C'f turves has been placed around the rim of the pots, as before advised, 
space is afforded for the top-dressings. Do not give heavy dressings of 
urich compost all at once, but apply it little and often ; apply also liquid 
manure, 1 oz. of the soluble artificial manures to a gallon of water, but 
give it in such quantity as to pass through the pots. Driblets do no 
good. Maintain a genial atmosphere by syringing twice a day when the 
weather is bright, but avoid keeping the foliage constantly wet, as would 
be the case by syringing vigorously in dull weather. Damp the paths, 
walls and b^, keeping the evaporation troughs charged with liquid 
manure, and to check red spider paint the hot-water pipes with sulphur. 
Admit a little air at 70°, increasing it with sun heat up to 85°, which 
■eught not to be exceeded, closing at 80°. The night temperature may 
still range from 60° to 0.5°, 55° in the morning in very severe weather i.s 
safer than the higher temperature, advancing 10° by artificial means 
in the daytime. Avoid crowding, stopping or tying the shoots as growth 
advances, as the fruit to have flavour and colour must, when ripening 
have full exposure to light combined with a circulation of warm dry air. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Kepentlies .—Transfer into larger baskets all Nepenthes that are 
crowded with roots. Do not disturb the old ball further than is neces¬ 
sary to remove the drainage from the base. A good layer of crocks 
should be placed over the bottom of the basket, and then the space must 
be filled in with fibry peat and lumps of charcoal. Press light soil of 
this nature as firmly as possible, and place living sphagnum moss on the 
surface. Any plants that have grown tall and ceased to produce pitchers 
may be cut back close to the base, and be allowed to break again into 
growth before they are potted or placed into larger baskets. When 
subjected to good management they do not need severe pruning for 
several years. By a regular and judicious system of pinching back they 
are constantly making young growths, which produce large pitchers. 
Cuttings strike freely if inserted in small pots amongst sand and sphag¬ 
num moss, and then plunged in the propagating frame, where a brisk 
heat is maintained. The cuttings should consist of two joints, and 
require to be kept close, moist, and shaded from the sun after insertion 
until they are rooted. 
Crotons .—Now the plants have commenced growth cuttings will root 
readily. To root large heads successfully without losing their foliage 
take them off where the wood is soft ; if taken where the wood is hard 
and ripenc.d, they generally lose their foliage, and are a long time before 
they root satisfactorily. However large the heads may be, they can be 
successfully rooted provided the plants from which they are taken are 
growing and the wood is moderately soft. A temperature of 65°, a 
frame that can be kept close, and a brisk bottom heat are needed. 
Plants from which the heads have been taken may be retained if stock 
is needed ; these will produce strong growths, and in a short time yield 
good heads. Do not take them in too small a state, or instead of large 
bold foliage at the base they will have small leaves, which destroy their 
appearance for many purposes. Plants that have filled small pots with 
roots and are needed for decoration may have an application of artificial 
manure to the surface of the soil. Place into 5 and 6-inch pots young 
stock that was rooted in autumn and wintered in 3-inch pots. I.arger 
plants may also be potted. Use for a compost rich fibry loam, oiie- 
seventh of decayed manure, one 6-inch potful of soot to each barrowful 
of soil, and the same quantity of bone meal, with a liberal addition of 
sand. Grow these plants in a warm atmosphere, close to the glass and 
fully exposed to light. 
Dracfpna Goldieana .—Plants that have grown too tall may be 
shortened and their tops rooted. In taking them off be careful to cut 
them where the wood is moderately soft. If the wood is firm they are three 
or four months before they are well rooted, and often lose their lower 
leaves, which detracts materially from the beauty of the plants. When 
the base of the wood is soft they root quickly and freely without losing 
a single leaf. Good heads may be inserted in 5-inch pots with a little 
sand for the base of the stem to rest upon. Plunge the pots under 
handlights, and cover the rim of the pot and surface of the soil ■with 
the plunging material, then no water will be needed before they are 
rooted, provided they are dewed with the syringe occasionally and the 
plunging material kept moist. D. gracilis and D. Lindeni can be suc¬ 
cessfully rooted in the same way. If increase of stock is needed keep 
the old plants in brisk heat, and if carefully watered at their roots they 
will soon break into growth. The side shoots can be taken and rooted 
in small pots. It is surprising what a number of young plants can be 
raised by this method in the course of a season. 
m BEE-KEEPER. 
PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.—No. 31. 
The end comes at last. With a few additional words of advice 
and warning this series of papers comes to a close. Most points 
of importance to the bee-keeper have been touched upon, although 
many of course have been passed by in silence. A bee-keeper who 
has read each paper and appreciated its meaning, will, I hope, be 
able at any rate to grasp something more than the elements of 
practical apiculture. If this is impossible, then my labour has been 
but lost, and the kindness of the Editor in allowing me so much of 
his valuable space has been thrown away. If one bee-keeper has 
learnt something which he did not know before, it is at least a 
satisfaction, while if the majority of the readers of this Journal 
are led to reconsider the position they have taken up, owing perhaps 
to advice given in more advanced papers, and to return to the paths 
of simplicity, a good work has been performed. 
I Spring is quickly approaching after two dreary months of winter 
