March 22, 1888. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
231 
S OME lawns are so uneven in surface, so full of weeds, such 
as Daisies, Plantains, Dandelions, and coarse grasses, that they 
-give much trouble in keeping, and are never satisfactory. More 
time, labour, and expense are often incurred in patching and 
mending such lawns than would be necessary to form a new one 
that with ordinary care would be all that could be desired. 
Imperfect drainage is the cause of many unsatisfactory lawns. 
Drainage acts beneficially through freeing the soil of superfluous 
water, rendering it not only drier but warmer. All water lodging 
within 3 feet of the surface is injurious, and should be prevented 
'by a proper system of drainage. Sandy or gravelly subsoils need 
the drains farther apart than clay subsoils, 8 yards apart being 
taken as the maximum distance for the former, and 4 yards as a 
■minimum distance for the latter. Where the subsoil is excessively 
porous the lawn often becomes browned in summer, and to attempt 
■drainage in such cases is unnecessary, indeed it w'ould be better to 
bring in clayey marl and good soil. 
We need not enter on a description of the work the formation 
•of new lawns entails in connection with the erection of a mansion) 
whether on an old or new site, farther than to point out that it is 
d.one sometimes in a most improper manner. All work that 
necessitates moving the soil or placing it deeper than is necessary 
in performing the operations of digging or trenching should be 
-done sufficiently early to allow of its settling down before an 
attempt is made to prepare the surface for sowing seeds or 
turfing. The soil, whatever it may be, must be well dug, making 
it all alike—not a few inches deep in some places to burn and brown 
the grass in hot weather, with deeper, better soil in others to 
•show in drought amid the general brownness as green oases in a 
desert. Stir the ground as deeply as the good soil allows, and if 
the pan below be of a stubborn nature it must be broken up with 
a pick. If the soil be thin there is greater need to keep it at the 
sui'face, and the best plan is to mix the good soil uniformly, as in 
turning a manure or rubbish heap with enough of the surface soil 
to form a good tilth. Very light soil may have clay marl mixed 
with it; a hundred loads per acre can be spread on the surface 
during frost, and afterwards be dug in evenly, or a similar quantity 
of chalk can be employed to make it more retentive of moisture. 
Heavy soils may have ashes, lime rubbish, sand, and road scrapings 
mixed with them as deeply as the soil is stirred, which will make 
them more porous, drier, warmer, and more favourable to an early 
and late growth. If the soil be very stiff throw it up in ridges so 
that it fall in spring readily into that even surface which is essen¬ 
tial for a proper bed for turf or seeds. All digging, trenching, 
or mixing should be done some little time before turfing or seeding 
to allow the soil settling. Spare no effort whilst digging or trench¬ 
ing in removing any Couch, Bindweed, Docks, Dandelions, or other 
weeds. 
Where the ground is “ in good heart ” manure may not be re¬ 
quired, but poor soils should have a liberal dressing. Twenty cart¬ 
loads per acre of good manure will be sufficient for poor soils, and 
it should only be pointed in or mixed with the top G inches of soil. 
Soil that only needs moderate enrichment will have the want 
supplied by a dozen loads per acre. Where manure cannot he 
obtained recourse must be had to artificials, in respect of which I 
can only reiterate what was stated of them for old lawns—viz., 
that they are excellent. If the soil be deficient in lime give a 
No. 404.— VoL. XVI., Third Series. 
supply, as it is essential for the finer descriptions of Grasses, par¬ 
ticularly of the Fescue Grasses, Clover, and Lotus, using it in a 
maximum quantity of 160 bushels per acre, and a minimum of 
80 bushels. Apply it in autumn or in spring. If the ground must 
be manured do so after liming in autumn, or if lime is applied in 
spring omit the manure, reserving it for dressing in the following 
autumn or early spring. 
From October to March, inclusive, is the best season to lay turf. 
It may be done at other times with perfect success when the 
weather is showery ; but it is a very uncertain and extravagant 
method of securing a lawn. The moist showery weather of April 
and of September is sometimes better than the season indicated for 
laying turf ; therefore, I shall only insist on moist mild weather 
being chosen. The turf must be taken from soil similar to that on 
which it is to be laid, and must be of the best possible character 
and free from weeds. I prefer the turf cut into squares of a foot 
every way as more convenient than the ordinary plan, leaving it 
grass side upward after every weed is carefully extracted. Lay the 
turf as soon as possible after cutting it on a firm and level surface) 
as even the best may have inequalities they must be rectified in 
laying. Beating after laying will certainly tend to reduce any 
irregularities, but the less there is for the beater in that respect the 
better ; indeed, some turf is hammered after laying until the sur¬ 
face is a puddle. Nothing further is needed except a little fine 
soil (I prefer leaf soil or short manure) disposed evenly with the 
back of a wooden rake. After the first rain, as soon as the ground 
is in a state fit to walk upon, roll thoroughly, and the heavier the 
roller the better. 
The best lawns are formed by sowing seeds, proper regard 
having been paid to preparing and cleaning the ground, and 
if in good working order firm it by treading, and rake it well, 
removing all stones and rough material. The tilth for Grass seeds 
should equal that of an Onion bed, but there is nothing so objec¬ 
tionable as a very close road-like surface. The Grasses will not 
become established so soon on that as where the surface is readily 
loosened by a rake. Sow the seed on a calm day, scattering the 
seeds evenly, and at once rake lightly to cover them from the birds. 
Roll the ground well and leave it until the Grasses are well developed, 
when a dressing of soot, 40 bushels to the acre during moist weather, 
will be most beneficial. Artificials may be given in lieu of soot, 
but if applied before seeding a second application will not be needed 
so soon, reserving it for moist weather after the first cutting. Do 
not be in a great hurry to cut the Grass, but switch it over occasion¬ 
ally with a scythe so as to remove any irregularities, but the more 
it is rolled when the ^ground is in a fit state the more the Grasses 
will spread. 
The best time for sowing is perhaps the first moist weather in 
April and onwards, but the earlier it is done after the middle of 
April the better are the- chances of a good turf being formed. 
Sometimes the ground is ready for seeding in late summer. In 
that case by aU means sow in September ; the seeds will germinate 
quickly and form quite a carpet before the weather is ordinarily 
severe. If the precaution be taken to dress the surface before 
winter with leaf soil or short manure, the twofold object of protec¬ 
tion to the Grasses and enriching the soil will be effected. 
I have tried compounding mixtures, procuring the Grasses 
separately, and attained a goodly measure of success, but I find 
there is little if anything gained thereby, as the various Grasses 
required for forming lawns differ but little in quantity and scarcely 
anything in kind for a light, medium, or heavy soil, therefore I am 
now content to procure a mixture of extra cleaned seeds of the 
finest dwarf evergreen Grasses for the purpose intended, making 
two distinctions only—viz., for garden lawns the finest Grasses and 
Clover, and for bowling greens, croquet grounds, lawn tennis 
grounds the finest Grass seeds only. If the lawn be an ordinary 
one occasionally used for tennis, it is easy to add to the mix¬ 
ture a few pounds of Cynosurus cristatus and Festuca durius- 
No. 20C0.—VoL. LXXVIII., Old Series. 
