March iS, 188*. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
245 
villosa hybrida, marginata, spectabile, pubescens, and several Auriculas, 
Mr. J. Clements, gardener to L. H. Hicks, Esq., Springfield House, 
Muswell Hill, was second, showing floribunda, rosea, obconica, verticil- 
lata, and erosa. Messrs. John May and Odell were tbe trade exhibitors 
of Cyclamens, and Mr. D. Phillips, Slough, and Mr. J. Clements the 
amateurs, the first in each class having much the finest plants. Messrs. 
Wright, Williams, and Douglas had good collections of Polyanthus Narcissi. 
Miscellaneous. —The non-competing groups were very extensive 
and beautiful, the following being the principal exhibits. Mr. B. S. 
M^lliams, Upper Holloway, Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, Amaryllises, 
and Azaleas, a very handsome group (large silver medal). Messrs. H. 
Williams & Sons, Finchley, Hyacinths, Tulips, Daffodils, Lilies of the 
Valley, &c. (large silver medal). Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, a 
group of excellent Hyacinths in all the best varieties (large bronze 
medal). Mr. J. James, Slough, a collection of extremely fine Cinerarias 
(large bronze medal). Messrs. Paul & Son, a large group of Roses in 
pots (large bronze medal). Messrs. W. Cutbush & Son, Highgate, a large 
and tasteful group of Hyacinths (large bronze medal). Mr. T. S. Ware, 
Tottenham, Daffodils and Anemone fulgens (certificate). Mr. J. Odell, 
Hillingdon, a group of Cyclamens (certificate). Messrs. Paul & Son, 
Cheshunt, a collection of hardy plants. Messrs. Barr & Son, Covent 
Garden, a collection of Daffodils (certificate). Messrs. H. Lane & Son, 
Berkhampsted, a collection of Azalea mollis varieties (large bronze medal. 
Botanical certificates were awarded for the following :— 
Trillium discolor atratum, (Veitch & Sons).—A peculiar variety with 
marbled leaves or bracts, and dark maroon flowers. 
Dendrohium nobile Cooltsoniiumm (Mr. Perkins, gardener to the Right 
Hon. W. H. Smith. Greenlands, Henley-on-Thames).—A fine plant 
of this variety with eight flowering growths with ten to sixteen flowers 
each. The variety is described and figured on page 2.87. 
Saxifraga Frederici-Augusta (Paul & Son).—A dwarf tufted species 
previously certificated at South Kensington and described last week. 
Floricultural certificates were awarded for the following : 
Rose Lady Alice (Paul & Son).—A Hybrid Perpetual Rose, a light 
coloured form of Lady Mary Fitzwilliam, very delicately tinted and 
very beautiful in the half opened state. 
Cineraria Favourite (J. James).—A single variety with large blooms 
of great substance, the florets broad and thick, rich rosy crimson at the 
tips, and pure white at the base. 
Cineraria Maria (J. James).—Single, blooms large, purj white, with 
a purple centre. 
Cineraria Irene (J. James).—Single, an intensely deep purple, 
florets broad, with a narrow white band at the base. 
A few new Hyacinths were shown by Messrs. Veitch & Sons, and 
though no certificates were awarded they are worthy of note. Sybil is 
a single variety with purplish mauve flowers in a compact spike, and it 
is something in the style of Harlequin, but rather darker. Symmetry 
is also a single variety, salmon red with a darker vein in the centre of 
each lobe of the corolla. Criterion, single, pale lemon yellow, a 
delicate colour and rather pretty. Star of Hillegom, double or 
semi-double, pale blush white, large bells and massiv? spike. The 
best of the Hyacinths in the general collections were Queen of the 
Blues, Czar Peter, blue ; Ida, yellow ; Mont Blanc, white ; General 
Pelissier, red ; Masterpiece, very dark blue; Charles Dickens, pink ; 
General Ksvemck. dark blue ; Countess of Rosebery, rose ; Electra, pale 
blue ; La Joyeuse, pi.nk ; Koh-i-noor, semi-double, rose ; Madame Van 
der Hoop, white, fine , Prince Albert Victor, red ; Vuurbaak and Lin¬ 
naeus, bright red ; Grand Maitre, blue, large ; King of the Blacks, dark 
blue ; Snowball, white ; .La Franchise, creamy ; Garibaldi, red ; Roi 
des Beiges, bright red. TL ese are all single except where otherwise 
stated. Of Tulips, Vermil on Brillant, Standard Royal, scarlet and 
white ; Ophird’Or, bright ye "ow ; White Joost Van Vondel, and Canary 
Bird, pale yellow, were the best. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
PaBSNIPS. —Parsnip seed is sometimes sown in February, and very 
often early in March, but seed sown now in suitable weather 
will produce as fine roots by October as any sown previously. It is a 
good time to sow the main crop. Give them deep friable soil, free 
from anything that would cause the roots to fork. Break the soil up 
well on the surface previous to sowing, open drills 18 inches apart and 
3 inches deep, and sow thinly. Cover with the surrounding soil, and 
tread it firmly. 
Early Carrots. —The French Horn and Short English Horn should 
be sown now. Where ground was prepared for them some time ago by 
forking in soot, sand, or lime to prevent grubs doing harm do not fork 
again, but run the Dutch hoe through the surface when the soil is dry, 
and sow on the same day. A south border is the best position for them. 
The drills need only be 1 foot apart and 2 inches deep. Separate the 
seed well, and avoid thick sowing. A little sand may be placed over the 
seed before the soil is placed back in the drills, and roll the surface when 
the soil is so dry as not to stick to the roller. 
The First Turnips. —These are always acceptable, but they are 
very apt to fail if the seed is sown too early. We have sown in 
February and the early part of March, and the plants all “ bolted,” but 
the seed sown now will produce plants that will form roots in May, and 
that is as early as Turnips are obtainable in most districts. Let the soil 
be made very rich near the surface ; they will not do much good in poor 
soil, and a sunny spot suits them admirably. Early Milan is the best 
for a first crop, and as the roots from this early sowing will not gain 
any great size much space may be economised by sowing the seed broad¬ 
cast in a small bed. Many scores of roots may be secured from a bed 
4 or 5 yards in length and 4 feet in width, but if in rows in such a small 
space the return would not be great. Sow thinly and cover slightly. 
Autumn-sown Onions. —Onions have not grown much since Sep¬ 
tember. They are short and healthy, and in good trim to avoid seeding 
prematurely. Thin the plants in the rows to a distance of 5 inches 
apart, then tread along the side of those remaining, and plant those 
drawn up elsewhere, giving them very rich ground exposed to the sun, 
and if placed in rows 10 inches apart and 4 inches between the plants, 
part of them may be drawn for use in May and June, and plenty allowed 
to remain to form large bulbs in July and August. 
Spring Onions. —The term applies to all Onions sown in spring, and 
all seed must be sown without delay. Do not make up the old-fashioned 
cumbersome bed, but apply plenty of manure and soot to a strong 
quarter of soil ; dig or fork it well in, and then open drills all over it at 
a distance of 10 inches or 1 foot apart, and sow the seed. Two inches 
is a good depth to sow, and if a little genial soil can be placed over the 
seed it will be an advantage. As soon as the seed is covered tread each 
row firmly, then rake the surface and roll it well. Firm soil always in¬ 
duces the plants to bulb early and well. Pig manure is excellent for Onions. 
Kidney Potatoes. —These are earlier than any of the round sorts, 
and should always be planted for a first crop. Like other tender vege¬ 
tables, Potatoes, if planted too early, are apt to be cut down by late 
frosts, but those planted during the last week in March are not very 
likely to suffer. We are now wheeling some manure on a vacant south 
border, spreading it out and digging it in, and as digging goes on the 
Potatoes are planted. The rows are 20 inches apart, and the sets are 
placed 1 foot asunder. The varieties are all of the Ashleaf type, and as- 
these do not make very large top growths, the distance named suits 
them. Where the manure was dug in some time ago, drills 6 inches 
deep may now be opened and the sets placed in. Heavy soil does not 
suit early Potatoes, but light land, if well manured, is admirable. 
It is a mistake to plant early Potatoes in cold sunless positions. 
Main Crop Pea?. —Prepare for sowing Peas. Throw out trenches 
for .every row, make them 1 foot deep and not less than this in width. 
Put a layer of good manure in the bottom and fork it over. Throw a 
little soil over this when forking is finished, tread the whole firmly down, 
and then sow the seed. Do not sow in a narrow strip but all over the 
bottom of the trench, and cover the seed with 4 inches of soil. This 
arrangement will keep them down from the drought they may experi¬ 
ence in luly, and while surface-sown Peas would be suffering for 
want of moisture, these would be as green and fresh as possible. 
Radish. —The early ones in the frames are now ready. They are 
useful little roots and beautifully crisp. Do not sow again in frames, 
but place two or three short rows in on a border or any warm corner. 
Broad Beans.— These have not suffered by the severe weather. 
Those sown in January are healthy, but several more rows should be 
sown, and if placed in like the Peas excellent crops will be the result. 
Two rows, 10 yards or 12 yards in length, will furnish many dishes. 
Small Seeds. —Manure and fork over a friable piece of soil, open 
drills in it at a distance of 10 inches or 1 foot apart, and then sow quan¬ 
tities of Cabbage, Cauliflowers, Leeks, Lettuce, and Brussels Sprouts ; 
cover them with some good soil, and in a month lor so hence they 
will be ready for transplanting to their bearing quarters. 
Spinach. —The winter Spinach has kept better than we ever saw it. 
The weeds have been drawn out of the rows, a little soot sprinkled 
between them, and plenty of leaves will soon be forthcoming to keep up 
a supply until the spring sowings are ready. A good sowing of the 
round-seeded Spinach should now be made. Give it a rich surface soil,, 
and keep the drills 1 foot apart. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines.— Earliest House. —The fermenting materials have been 
removed before the berries begin colouring, retaining however, about a 
couple of inches thickness as a mulch, and giving the inside borders a 
thorough soaking with tepid liquid manure. After the Grapes com¬ 
mence colouring ventilate as freely as possible, and gradually reduce the 
atmospheric moisture. The temperature should be well maintained in 
the daytime, 70° to 75°, with 10° to 15° rise from sun heat, allowing the 
temperature to fall through the night to 65° or even 60°. 
Vines in FVyiw/'.—Keep up a steady circulation of warm rather dry 
air where Vines are in bloom, maintaining a temperature of 70° to 75° 
for Muscats, and o° less for Black Hamburghs, allowing an advance 
of 10° to 15° from sun heat. All shy-setting varieties should be artifi¬ 
cially impregnated, dusting the bunches carefully with a camel’s-hair 
brush, apply pollen from the free-setting varieties to the stigmas of the 
shy setting sorts. We find it is a good plan to brush over the bunches of 
the latter first and then apply the pollen with another brush, the brush 
in both cases being used lightly. 
Disbudding. —Do not attempt this until the bunches appear in the 
points of the shoots, and then it must not be done in a hurry nor a large 
reduction made at a time, but proceed gradually and rationally so as to 
give as little check as possible. Retain no more growths than will hav« 
