246 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
March 22, 1888. 
full exposure to light, as crowding the foliage is one of the greatest evils 
in Vine culture. 
Stopping .— It is a safe plan to allow the shoots with fruit to extend 
three or four leaves beyond the bunches before taking out their points. 
The laterals from the leaves below the bunches may be rubbed off, or 
they should be pinched at the first joint, but those above the fruit may 
be allowed to extend until the available space is fairly furnished, then 
pinch them and keep them within bounds afterwards by pinching to 
each joint of growth as made. 
Thinning. —A very important operation is this both as regards the 
bunches and berries. Remove all duplicate bunches before they flower, 
ss it is hardly likely one bunch will set well and the others indifferently. 
Free-setting varieties may have the berries thinned as soon as they ai e 
fairly out of flower, but Museats and other shy setters should not be 
thinned until it is seen which berries have been properly fertilised. It 
is difficult to give precise instructions for thinning, as the berries vary 
considerably in size in different varieties, and even different individuals 
of the same variety. Every berry should have room to swell without 
becoming wedged, and yet leave sufficient berries to ensure the bunch 
retaining its form when cut. 
Watering, Feeding, Mulching .— Vines from the time they are started 
until the fruit ripens must not lack moisture at the roots. It is ex¬ 
tremely diflScult to state how often the borders will need watering 
through the borders being so variable in dimensions, in depth, and in their 
formation. A narrow border will need watering twice as often as one 
double the width, assuming the Vines to be equally extended and 
cropped, and a border of loose material will require water much more 
frequently than one formed of firm retentive material, consequently 
the cultivator must be guided by the state of the Vines in relation to 
their rooting area. The proper plan is to examine the border, and when 
water is necessary give a thorough supply. Surface dressings of the 
approved advertised artificials, and supplies of liquid manure may be 
given. The borders having been dressed at the usual season — i.e., whilst 
the Vines are at rest, a dressing after the Grapes are set about the 
completion of the stoning process will help considerably, the material 
as regards inside borders being at once washed in, or a good soaking 
with liquid manure at those times and when the fruit commences to 
colour will assure the berries swelling to a good size. In the case of 
Vines restricted to narrow borders higher feeding will be necessary, 
according liquid manure whenever there is need of moisture. Supply a 
mulching 2 or 3 inches thick of rather lumpy manure, the best being 
stable manure freed of the straw. 
Late Tines. —Syringe Vines that have commenced growth several 
times a day, endeavouring to secure an even break by closing with a 
moist atmosphere at 75°, employing fire heat as may be necessary to 
secure a minimum of 5.5°. Vigorous young canes do not break evenly. 
To prevent a rush of sap to the upper part they should be brought into 
a horizontal position until all the eyes have started, when the canes may 
be brought up to the wires. 
Young Tino.'t .— Those planted last jmar and cut back to the bottom 
of the rafter or trellis at the winter pruning must be encouraged by 
gentle fire heat, so as to allow time for their making and perfecting a 
good growth. The laterals must have their points pinched out at the 
first leaf up to a height of (5 feet up the canes, which will eause the buds 
in the axils of the principal leaves of the canes to form fruit buds and 
become plump for next season’s fruiting, but above that height may be 
allowed to grow. 
Planting Young Yiius. —It will require to be done early in April, 
and where provision has been made for inside and outside borders the 
Vines should be planted in the former, which will be sufficient for the 
first year, indeed a -1 to 0 feet width is quite ample in the first instance. 
The Vines, if cut-backs of last year, may be shaken out and placed in 
position either before or after they have grown to the extent of a couple 
of inches, the roots being disentangled and spread out evenly in the 
border, covering them about 3 inches deep, and watering moderately to 
settle the soil about them. Vines of the present year’s raising will not 
need to be jdanted out for some time 3 'et. They are preferably raised 
in squares of turf, and m.ay be planted when the roots are protruding 
through the sides, or if in pots they should be turned out before they 
become root-bound. They will require to have a temperature at plant¬ 
ing out suitable to Vines in growth—viz., (!5° at night anil 70° to 75° by 
day, with an advance of 10° to 15° with sun, but Vines of Last year 
should be allowed to start unaided, syringing them two or three times a 
day according to the weather. 
Tines for Parly Fruiting in Pots. —Cut-backs of last year's raising 
should receive their final shift. The pots (12 inches in diameter) should 
be cleaned and efficiently drained, potting firmly in turfy loam, with 
about a tenth old mortar rubbish and a twentieth of crushed bones. 
Bottom heat is not necessary, but if they are plunged in it, it should not 
•exceed 80° to 85°, and they must not remain in that so long that the 
roots enter the plunging material. Keep the house rather close, and if 
the weather be bright shade for a few days. It is essential that the 
eanes be trained near the gl.ass to insure the solidification of the growth. 
Pinch the laterals at the first joint, and subsequent growths treat 
similarly, stopping the lead at about 8 feet. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Epacrises. —Some of the earliest plants that flowered and have well 
started into growth may be repotted if they need it into a slightly larger 
size. The pots used should be carefully drained, and the soil, good 
peat and sand, pressed firmly round the old ball. l)o not bury the 
collar of the plant, and disturb the ball no further than is necessary in 
removing the old drainage from the base. After potting place the plants 
in a temperature of 50°, and stand them on some moisture-holding 
material. Syringe the plants twice a day when fine, but water the 
roots with groat care. Plants that have flowered should be cut close 
back, and be placed in the temperature advised above until they bretvk 
into fresh growth. Be careful not to crowd those in flower in the con¬ 
servatory. lilore harm results to these plants while in such structures 
from the exclusion of light to the lower part of the plant and careless 
watering than from any other cause. Keep those required for late 
flowering as cool as possible, they will be better in a structure with 
a northern aspect. 
Softwooded Ericas. —E. hyemalis and others that flowered early may 
be repotted without delay in the compost advised for Epacrises. If they 
have commenced growth they are better in a perfectly cool house. They 
may be kept rather close for two or three weeks after repotting. If they 
were well pruned back after flowering the shoots may be tied out to¬ 
wards the rim of the pot. This not only keeps them well furnished at 
the base, but allows more room to the shoots to properly develope them¬ 
selves. Stand them where they will have moisture at the base. These 
will bear the syringe without injury on fine days. Give abundance of 
air to E. autumnalis, and be careful not to syringe or to allow the air 
in which they are growing to become stagnant or overcharged with 
moisture, or they are certain to be attacked with mildew. If mildew 
appears dew the plants with the syringe and dust the affected parts with 
sulphur. Keep j'oung stock as cool as possible. Give them plenty 
of air whenever the weather will allow of this being done. They may 
be transferred from 3 to 5-inch pots as opportunities offer. The sooner 
they are done the better, so that they will become established before 
drying influences surround them. 
Ilardwooded Tarietics. —All jmung plants that it is intended to grow 
on should be repotted if they need it. If good sized plants are needed 
as quickly as possible it is a mistake to allow them to become root-bound 
bsfore placing them into larger pots. Use good peat with plenty of 
coarse sand and a little charcoal in lumps, according to the size of the 
plants. After potting draw any shoots that are taking the lead towards 
the rim of the pots, which will give the weaker ones a chance and render 
the work of training afterwards easier. Keep the plants close when 
drying winds prevail, and be careful that the base upon which they 
stand be kept moist. Until they are rooting in the new soil blight sun¬ 
shine may be shaded from them for a few hours during the middle of the 
day. If they can be stood in a position where shading is not needed all 
the better. Staking and tying established plants should be brought 
to a close as rapidly as possible. In tying regulate the growths so 
that the bloom will be as even as possible over the plants. Keep 
them perfectly cool, and give air abundantlj'. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Methods of Propagating Bedding Plants. —Where there are plenty 
of gentle hotbeds and well heated propagating frames various soft- 
wooded plants may be rapidly increased without much difficulty, but 
these are not by anj'- means generally available. The cuttings require a 
good bottom heat, and to be kept close and shaded, or they are slow and 
uncertain in striking root. A well managed Cucumber or Melon frame 
is most suitable for propagating purposes. Failing any of these con¬ 
veniences, any number of Iresiue, Aiieratum, Heliotrope, Verbena, 
Alternanthera, Abutilon, and Coleus cuttings may be quickly rooted in 
pans of sand and water set on hot-water pipes. They may be dibbled 
in as thickly as they will stand in the sand, the water being then poured 
in and kept renewed constantly. Plenty of roots are soon formed, and 
the tiny plants may be boxed or potted off as safely as those from 
cutting pots, taking care, however, to use' rather fine and previously 
warmed soil. ^ I^eaves and tops of Echeverias and .Serapervivums and 
Mesembryanthemums must not be kept close and hot, or the majority of 
them will decay. All these root most surely in sandj' soil and set on 
a sunny shelf or staging in a warm house. 
Plants to he Propagated. —Stocky plants of Lo'oelia speciosa, or 
selections of the same, divide readiljq nearlj' every little piece being 
already provided with roots. These may first be dibbled out thickly 
in boxes and set in gentle heat, and subsequentl,y will develope into 
fine stocky plants if bedded out in frames. The herbaceous Lobelias 
stored in pots or boxes are increased by division, plenty of suckers being 
thrown up from the old crowns. Salvia patens to be started and pro¬ 
pagated similarly to Dahlias. The long tleshj' roots of Verbena venosa, 
which have been kept plump in boxes of soil, maj' be cut into short 
lengths, two joints to each being sufficient, dibbled thicklj' into boxes of 
fine soil, and sot in heat to strike. Every little piece will form a plant, 
the subsequent treatment being the same as that given the ordinary 
bedding Verbenas. Store plants of Polemonium cferuleum variegatum 
will now bo forming fresh growth. These may be turned out of the 
pots and divided into as many pilants as there are crowns. Tot them 
singly and keep in cold frames. Centaureas candidissima and ragusina 
after they have grown in heat for a time will yield a lot of cuttings. 
Every short side shoot may be taken off, dibbled thinly in well-drained 
pot or pans filled with sandy soil, and set on a shelf in forcing house. 
Shade from bright sunshine only, and water carefully. Cineraria 
maritima an I varieties may be propagated in a similar manner or from 
seed. Tops of Gazania splendens will root in heat, but autumn-struck 
plants arc the ’east trouble. The same remarks .apply to the shrubby 
Calceolarias. Tops of Zonal and variegated I’clargoniums root most 
surely when dibbled thinly in well drained (Idnch pots filled with sandy 
